9.5 rear options

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Originally posted by Provience View Post
    heck, i'm inclined to agree that the tacoma 8.4 diff would be just dandy and hold up well, in addition to being cheaper and easier to find.

    going to an off the shelf 9" chunk is arguably doubling the cost of the entire build for no reason

    other option would be to hit up craigslist and buy whatever axle from 8.8-14b that you can find "cheap" and have diamond build your housing around that

    heck just an 8.8 would probably be more'n enough. you are talking custom shafts regardless.
    I forgot about the almighty 14b, that really should be the only answer to rear axle questions!!
    Every major institution is against you and will let you die!
    - Tim Dillon

    Comment


      #32
      9.5, diamond housing with his machined 35 spline spool and Solids rear full float kit.

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by Slander View Post
        Interesting about the tundra 9.5", is it the same diff flange bolt pattern as the cruiser shit?
        My understanding is the Tundra 9.5 is the same as the 200 series 9.5.

        Comment


          #34
          Can i flip a FF 9.5 rear axle upside down to keep the driveshaft out of the gas tank? Anyone done this successfully?

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by Provience View Post

            going to an off the shelf 9" chunk is arguably doubling the cost of the entire build for no reason

            .
            Have you ever priced 9" stuff? It's very reasonable, a complete, brand new 3rd is $400, r&p can be had for $150, ect. Buying a sought after cruiser rear axle for just the 3rd seems silly.

            The only major difference would be if you used all the cruiser outters. I still bet it would be very close in price.

            Comment


              #36
              Where are you finding a brand new 9" for $400 complete?

              I was looking at nodulars for that. Add in gears, all the bearings and whatnot, an ARB and you're basically a wash with what an 9.5 build up would cost from what I can tell.....assuming that I can find a used/damaged 9.5 that needs to a rebuild anyways.

              I will be the first to admit that I know little to nothing about 9" and parts vendors. Never needed to look at them. Not a Ford guy, ever.

              I don't know how to do gears so that is a labor cost anyway I go.

              I did score an 8.4 for free for a core if I go that route so that is still on the table.

              Hoping to hear from Brian tonight as he said he can score me a 9.5. I am just not sure that they do ARB's and gears. I will have to wait to hear from him and go from there
              Long Days and Pleasant Nights

              Comment


                #37
                Probably THE best case you can buy for $430.

                https://gearworksinc.com/product/3-2...oad-bolt-case/

                I got a quote for a complete 5.38/detroit 3rd from yukon, 100% new for $1200 shipped. Housing will be the same or less., shafts will be the same or less. The only difference will come with the outters.

                ​​​​​​

                I like toyota stuff and all, but it's hard to justify when you are starting from scratch. I get it when guys are buying the parts piece by piece.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by Leatherhead_25 View Post
                  Can i flip a FF 9.5 rear axle upside down to keep the driveshaft out of the gas tank? Anyone done this successfully?
                  Yes. Several of us have done it.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by YotaAtieToo View Post

                    Have you ever priced 9" stuff? It's very reasonable, a complete, brand new 3rd is $400, r&p can be had for $150, ect. Buying a sought after cruiser rear axle for just the 3rd seems silly.

                    The only major difference would be if you used all the cruiser outters. I still bet it would be very close in price.
                    $550 sounds way cheaper than the last time I looked at 9" stuff. guess it's been a few years, but it seemed like a center chunk was ~$1500+ and "the consensus" was that junkyard ones weren't worth using


                    Up is difficult, down is dangerous

                    Comment


                      #40
                      so i just changed to dana 60s front and rear and went away from toyota, i like the toyota for ease and i knew that stuff. dana 60s are big and heavy but i think parts are more common at everyday parts stores and dam strong. you do pay in weight and a chevy 60 is getting pricey. i also did go 35 spline both axles. i like the idea of a ford 9 inch and some sort of custom housing. build once pay once and be done. and if i recall fords had a shit ton of gear options. maybe not above 5.38 or something. but alot

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by Provience View Post

                        $550 sounds way cheaper than the last time I looked at 9" stuff. guess it's been a few years, but it seemed like a center chunk was ~$1500+ and "the consensus" was that junkyard ones weren't worth using

                        Yes, junkyard ones are not worth using unless it's small tires, lightweight and small horsepower. 31 spline max, unless you go weird MW profile stuff.

                        That Gearworks case that YotaAtie posted is the best bang for the buck case: https://gearworksinc.com/product/3-2...oad-bolt-case/

                        Figure $1200-2K to fully build a stout 3rd, depending on the parts you want to stuff it with.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by dntsdad View Post
                          I did score an 8.4 for free for a core if I go that route so that is still on the table.
                          just use the 8.4. the girdle in the back is the key to its strength and they put em behind tundra v8s.


                          https://tubeworks.com/product/tw-cro...member-system/

                          come awn guys, dont be scared
                          Last edited by mobil1syn; 3 days ago.

                          Comment

                          Advertisement:
                          Advertisement:
                          Advertisement:
                          Advertisement:
                          Advertisement:
                          Advertisement:
                          Working...
                          X