1993 4runner multi-use build.

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    1993 4runner multi-use build.

    I got this runner for 250 bucks. 3.slow, auto, 4x4. Non tow package, and not 31" from factory so should be 4.30 gears from factory. Been sitting since 2013. I have been kind of keeping an eye on it since about then ( a friend owned it). The previous owner just barely kept it running. But has 146k on the clock, and kind of beat, but not bad.

    Well anyways, first off I got a 4" ifs kit off a burned pickup. 63" chevy swap in progress on the rear..

    Getting rid of the add stuff. I imagine a long side tube from a non-add diff should bolt to my diif, so I don't have to worry about differential gear ratio quite yet. Plan is 5.29 or 5.71 later.

    I might steel the loc wrong from the crawler because v6 diffs in both.

    Got a smoking deal from a coworker friend on 5 37" toyo open countries with about 1200 miles on them for 1I, and got some 17x9 soft 8s from a local trail gear dealer for 405 for all 5

    plans are arb in the ifs front at some point, would like to do same in rear as well if I can get some covid money.

    Deleting rear sea . I have access to aluminum sheets, tig machine, shear and break at work. Then have a smallish pack rat toolbox to install.

    I need to ditch the factory toyota alarm system, because I think I will have issues with it.

    I also have a hulk roller, pro tools 105 bender, and Bend tech software on the laptop, with a few add ons. So rear bumper, sliders,and roof rack may be in the future.

    I have 3 projects, this one and 2 crawlers, but this one I want going first, since my son will be 18 soon. I am going to give him my daily driver. The other 2 builds will be in others threads.

    Anyways, todays project is lift in front, manual hubs and new axle shafts, drop the diff and change the add crap out.

    Who has an ifs lift? I need measurements for the sway bar drop brackets (OD) measurements for the bump stop drops...I believe they were just 2"x3" box and drilled. Front shock partnumbers for some Rancho 5000 or pro comp 3000.

    The rear 63" swap, I still have some brackets to cut. Need to move the hangers back about 1.5" for clearance of the 37's. I still have to do shocks, but when I get to that point,I will measure, and may already have some laying around.

    Someone did headgasket on it, and I think moved a couple valve shims around,. But I have a full service for it. Water pump, timing belt, idlers, tensioner, fan pulley, belts, radiator, and so on. I stole the bumper off another truck I had built

    Anyways, pics. Click image for larger version
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    #2
    You are correct on the sway bar drop brackets.

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      #3
      You mean bump stop drop brackets? I think the sway bar drop brackets are "c" shaped, aren't they?

      I got the left side corner done last night. Still have to work on the front differential modification and drop.

      Comment


        #4
        Non add tube will bolt up, yes. Which will give the the needle bearing on the short side and non disconnect on the long side.

        I might have a 4.56/spartan diff available soon. I also know a guy pulling out a 4.88/Arb soon

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          #5
          Cool. I have to wait on gears and lockers. Poor single father with too many projects. How it currently sits. Had to take care of household duties today, so I will goof around with it this week after work. I also need to pull the bumper back off to weld the inside, space the bumper forward from the grille, and add a couple extra brackets since this one was on an 88 truck before.

          Had an issue with the new lower ball joint on the drivers side. One of the 4 mounting holes to the knuckle was off. Fawking china. Click image for larger version
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            #6
            So today I found when swapping the disconnect to a non disconnect on the long side. You will need a axle seal. You need to pull the diff cover to be able to pop out the little stub that is left after you pull the axle tube.

            I also found, with this diff,it has the inverted torx. And if you try and use anything but the correct size, like a gator grip socket, the metal is kind of soft and it will strip out when you get the E16 socket on it.

            Idk how the needle bearing on the side gear is helpful now. But since I decided to order just a seal, and not a shim kit, the needles are staying I think a normal side gear would be stronger, but deal with that later since it is just a stupid IFS diff. ARB replaces all that later more than likely.

            Roackauto has a Yukon seal, for half as much as Randy's, and the 13.99 shipping was cheaper than the 20 or so randy's wanted.

            So now I have to wait until monday to reinstall the diff. Maybe I will dial the rear suspension this weekend and get the axle in the correct position since we should have a second weekend in a row of nice weather.

            I am going to grab some frame bolts to replace the grade 5s that came with the lift kit originally. At work we have the frame bolts for heavy duty trucks with flanges instead of hex with washers. Just have to measure. This will be for top of knuckle to lift bracket, and the 4 holding the lift to the original a arm brackets.

            Comment


              #7
              I dig it. There's a local(ish) guy running 38s on an otherwise stock looking 2nd gen runner with a 3.0, it seems to work pretty damn well! Heavy on the tubbing obviously.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by NOODLES View Post
                So today I found when swapping the disconnect to a non disconnect on the long side. You will need a axle seal. You need to pull the diff cover to be able to pop out the little stub that is left after you pull the axle tube.

                I also found, with this diff,it has the inverted torx. And if you try and use anything but the correct size, like a gator grip socket, the metal is kind of soft and it will strip out when you get the E16 socket on it.

                Idk how the needle bearing on the side gear is helpful now. But since I decided to order just a seal, and not a shim kit, the needles are staying I think a normal side gear would be stronger, but deal with that later since it is just a stupid IFS diff. ARB replaces all that later more than likely.

                Roackauto has a Yukon seal, for half as much as Randy's, and the 13.99 shipping was cheaper than the 20 or so randy's wanted.

                So now I have to wait until monday to reinstall the diff. Maybe I will dial the rear suspension this weekend and get the axle in the correct position since we should have a second weekend in a row of nice weather.

                I am going to grab some frame bolts to replace the grade 5s that came with the lift kit originally. At work we have the frame bolts for heavy duty trucks with flanges instead of hex with washers. Just have to measure. This will be for top of knuckle to lift bracket, and the 4 holding the lift to the original a arm brackets.
                You don't *have*to pull the diff cover, you can pop the short side out and tap it out with a screw driver or skinny punch.

                I ended up having to weld nuts to those torx, they are were tight as fuck too. But the heat seemed to help.

                The 4.56/spartan diff (I even added a solid pinion spacer) is available now, I also have a complete stock, non add diff from an 87 auto 4runner (4.30s?) i also have a but load of cv parts, including a few OK spare CV's. Not looking for a ton of money, just would like to see it go to use, rather than sit or deal with Craigslist.
                Last edited by YotaAtieToo; 06-12-2020, 10:40 AM.

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                  #9
                  I pulled the diff cover. The clip on the inner stub was a spread out pile of shit. Someone had been in there before. I am looking for a lower gear ratio than 4.56. And the spartan is for a 7.5? I will think about it, But I am strongly considering a selectable for the front, just for ease of steering, and on steering components, and the life of the axles. The ones I have are brand new.

                  I went to install the diff last night after getting back from a trip with my father to reno. but remembered I wanted to clean up the wings I cut off that used to allow the front diff crossmember to bolt in. I still have to loosen the lift bolts and square up all the ifs lift components. They are sitting crooked.

                  I have been busy with side work to help pay for my projects, So I haven't done much to it since a couple weeks ago.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yes spartan is for a 4.56

                    The diff is from an add 4runner so it has the bearing on the short side. Plus the solid pinion spacer.

                    Like I said, I'll make you a hell of a deal if you want it, would be a good diff to regear or sell later for an ARB?

                    Let me know

                    Jeff
                    530 592 6033

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Here you go, now you have to go 4.56 ​​​​​​

                      https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts...142692214.html

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                        #12
                        Awesome! I likey a multi purpose runner! I must be the only guy on the planet that didn't mind the 3.0, My 89 runner had one and it just plain worked.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by flecker View Post
                          Awesome! I likey a multi purpose runner! I must be the only guy on the planet that didn't mind the 3.0, My 89 runner had one and it just plain worked.
                          My first truck was a 3.0. It had around 250,000 HARD miles on it. I got it from my brother, he originally bought it from a coworker of ours. As far as I know it had the factory heads gaskets in it. I was waiting for it to shit a gasket but it never happened. I ended up scrapping the truck.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The older 3.0's with the asbestos filled head gaskets did great! I want to say the toyota redesigned hg's from 91 up had issues... there was a recall on them. Remember kids, asbestos works!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by flecker View Post
                              The older 3.0's with the asbestos filled head gaskets did great! I want to say the toyota redesigned hg's from 91 up had issues... there was a recall on them. Remember kids, asbestos works!
                              I think mine was built 3/91. That would explain it.

                              Comment

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