'84 Xtra cab to ftoy

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    '84 Xtra cab to ftoy

    This will be low tech, mainly why i never posted it on the other site

    Hopped a Greyhound to Anderson, SC and picked this up. Drove it 500 miles home running 70 and got 20 mpg

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    The two tone wasn't doing it for me so I primered it.

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    Went to Hot Springs Thanksgiving '14.
    After a minor incident on Gorge it looked like this. It was a slow motion 270 degree roll. I just crouched down in the cab and hung on tight. Didn't get hurt at all......fortunately.

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    Pulled a plug and it was dry. Took a little doing but it fired back up and we drove back to the parking lot. Mack backed up a hill in the upper section of the parking lot, I pulled up at the bottom of the hill, Jackrabbit pulled up facing my passenger side. We ran straps thru the cab and they played tug of war with their winches. Then we used a hilift on the drivers side for a little added roof raising. It came out pretty good.

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    We wound up wheeling another 4-5 hours. Between this spot on
    Greg's Rocks and the Rock Garden my clutch wound up looking like this and I further bashed up the driver side. Single stock case and stock clutch was not happy.

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    So with the clutch smoked, wheeling ended and plans for rebirth started rolling thru my head. I originally intended to put another cab on it. Found one south of Knoxville for 250.00. The more I thought about it though and the more I thought about how I prefer the tougher trails, putting a new cab on with an exo morphed into going ftoy instead. The problem I have with an ftoy is getting in and out of the thing. Then I saw a modified version of one......on that other site

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    And I decided that was something I could live with. difference being I would stay on leafs. Skin it, throw a mojave heater in it and possibly even a removable lexan windshield.

    So the dismantling begins......I was renting a place with my best friend, double carport only, so I ghetto'd an enclosure since this is taking place in the cold. All the dismantle was done by me with no help including pulling the bed and cab.

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    Commenced removing all unneeded brackets


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    And then threw some primer on it since it was going to be a minute before going to the tube work guy

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    I still had to pull the motor, clean up the front of the frame and put the 4" TG springs back under it in the front (had rufs) then it was ready to go for the tube work and inboarding of the rear springs. I pulled the dash out of the cab (still have it actually along with hvac stuff) before scrapping it. The tube work guy was/is a Hendricks ftoy chassis guy. He has built about 30 so he didn't even need my roller before he started bending tube. He did need some measurements though since he had never built on an extra cab length frame before. Tube work is a side gig for him. He owns a BMW repair shop for his main gig.


    Attached Files
    Last edited by makemeknowit; 06-06-2020, 03:48 PM.
    Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

    #2
    While I'm waiting on chassis guy, it's time to gather some parts

    Mastercrafts

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    Ordered 2 sheets of 14 ga perforated metal and 3 sticks of 1 x 1 x .083 wall tubing for the floor/supports.


    Scored a propane kit on Hardline, still have to get tanks and brackets but otherwise complete.

    And scored 2 tanks

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    And a 12voltguy panel

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    Ordered a Marlin turbo clutch upgrade. Comes with a bigger flywheel and clutch, 9-5/16 vs 8-7/8

    Got a few progress pics from the chassis guy

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    He changed things up from the previous pic to here. He had this FJ40 bezel, already cut in half and asked me if I wanted it. I said sure.

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    Picked this up. Chassis guy runs one on his ftoy and likes it so I snagged one. As you can see it is a short drum.

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    Some more progress on the tube

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    The door bars will go away and be replaced with the drop bars after we put the engine/trans/cases in. He wants to wait until then when he is doing the floors so he can properly place the bars in relation to my seating position.

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    His ftoy on the left. His is a true spec chassis and he used to to compete pretty regularly.

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    While he was kinking tube, me and my friend were working on dual case stuff. 2.28/2.28.......for now

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    Also got all the smog stuff off the motor. Did EGR block off, assembled engine, trans, and xfer cases and put it in the FToy so it can go back for more tube work.

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    Transmission, crawl box and xfer case. One long bitch.

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    Now to take it back to chassis guy so he can do floors, do the drop entry bars after mounting seats, add a couple more bars on either side of the engine bay, rad mount, winch mount, fab brackets for my propane tanks and C02 tank and a mount for the 12 volt guy panel, oh shit handle for passenger and tabs for roof panel and side panels. He also has to revisit the front shock mounts as I will only have about 2" of downtravel in their current state with my 14" shocks. See pics for what I mean.

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    Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

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      #3
      Worked on driveshafts. Ran out of wire before we could finish the rear shaft.

      Front before

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      Front finished

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      Rear unfinished. That is 3" D.O.M. .188 wall that is going inside the stock shaft.

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      Rear shaft done. Weighs 32lbs

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      Crossmember progress

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      The side pieces had to be cut down since the motor is moved back 8". Took what we cut off and welded it underneath.

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      Cut the bar out for the drop entry and added an upright

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      Started on the floor framework and seat mount tabs. More supports will be added, this was just enough to get the seat mounted.

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      Got the driver seat pretty well finalized.

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      Decided there will be no back seat as the propane tanks are going to be mounted like this pic I found

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      Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

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        #4
        Radiator support is done

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        Steering column mock up. The second pic, crappy as it is, is what I'm having him do. I have the same switch panel. The tube you see tacked at clutch pedal height will be changed. It is going to bend up to meet the node just above it, ride about 2" above my leg when in the seat, then it will bend up where it ties in behind the seat.

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        Passenger side tank mount, driver side will mirror this. Only one tank strap will be used on each. He is also going to mount my C02 tank. There is an area just in front of that "ladder" you see that he is going to add tubing and make for some storage directly behind the seats.

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        Rear cargo area supports

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        Sorry about the blurry

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        Bought a set of 39" Reds on aluminum beadlocks, sold my 36" Iroks on beadlocks

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        Dash bar and panel mount

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        Passenger drop entry

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        Driver side

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        36' IROKS vs 39 reds

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        Curiosity got the best of me,I was wondering what the weight difference in the IROKs and reds might be.

        The 36/13.5/15 IROKs on steel beadlocks weigh 105 lbs

        The 39/13.5/17 Reds on aluminum beadlocks weigh 101 lbs

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        Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

        Comment


          #5
          Home at last, time to start prepping for paint. June 24, 2016. Mind you I rolled it Thanksgiving of '14.

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          Had to throw the seats and tanks in for mock up

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          The 4 tabs you see on the right behind the propane tank are for the C
          O2 tank mount

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          Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

          Comment


            #6
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            All sanding was done with an electric D.A. and a flap wheel and coarse steel wool, took a solid 10 hours.

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            2 coats of Valspar Massey Ferguson gray farm implement paint

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            Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

            Comment


              #7
              And this is what I put it on with, a 2" high density foam roller and a chip brush. That's right, I didn't spray it.

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              Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

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                #8
                Brown santa brought this today......lexan

                The 2 in the back are for the side panels, the front is for a temporary windshield when needed, it is MR10, much more scratch resistant than regular lexan and way more expensive. That piece cost nearly as much as the other two combined.

                Impossible to buy this stuff locally without getting raped. I got this on ebay and with shipping it was over $200 cheaper than I could get it in town.

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                Cardboard template

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                Cut it with tin snips, lefts and rights, doubt it could be done with straights

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                Time for some wiring and cable making

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                The short fat cable is the ground for the winch. I'm not going to run it all the way to the battery, just ground to the chassis.
                The little jumper is for the master disconnect and the long red wire will run from the master disco to the alternator

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                I've got more to make but I'm waiting on wire and cable to get here. Using marine grade wire and welding cable for the needed additional battery cable.

                I was going to use this fancy flaring tool and make brake lines.......but after messing with this I went braided.

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                This stuff at the front will have to wait on the firewall to get completely situated

                Had to move the pedal assembly forward a bit to get the slave cylinder line on.

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                Never did get this to work

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                Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

                Comment


                  #9
                  Bling bling battery tray. Really slow going as wiring is not my thing, even as basic as the wiring on this thing is I'm just not cut out for it. I might as well be trying to translate French to Russian, I have a serious mental block when it comes to wiring

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                  Extremely low key tail lights

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                  Rock lights, small but extremely bright and neodymium magnetic mount. I routed the wires inside the frame and will leave enough slack so I can move them where they will shine best. There are two in back and two in front. The tail lights and rock lights will be on a separate switch from the headlights. Sometimes when night riding in a group it sucks to need to look back and the rig behind you is blinding you with their headlights.

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                  Dash panel from left over lexan. I'll paint it of course. I'm going to mount the coil and igniter underneath to keep them somewhat guarded from the elements. I ordered a two 3' coil wires (one for a spare since 3' coil wires aren't sitting on most parts house shelves) in order to be able to move it that far.

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                  This is the color everything will get, roof inside and out, hood outside, firewall inside and side panels. Under hood can stay bare as well as engine side of firewall

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                  Hood, roof and firewall mocked up

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                  I'm going to radius the corners of the roof before mounting. It hangs over enough to overlap the temporary windshield when it is in place.....should help keep some rain off when getting caught in it.

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                  I used a jigsaw to cut the radius for the trans. I only had two fine tooth blades and they both got gummed up to the point of unusable. That left me with 1 very coarse tooth blade, I said w.t.h. and put it in....it flew thru that 1/8" aluminum like it wasn't there.....note to self. The straight cuts were with a 60 tooth carbide tipped blade in the circular saw, again it flew thru the aluminum like paper.

                  I'll likely put that door edge trim stuff around everything when I get ready to mount them.

                  Gotta see to back up, rightClick image for larger version
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                  Test fitting the grille and headlights

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                  Grille painted and in place, a little hack-tacular but I ain't trying to win the Ridler award

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                  And the headlights all wired


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                  Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Going to need to see inside if you go on a night ride

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                    I screwed up the strip above the driver seat as you can see they aren't all lit, worry about it later

                    I mentioned using door edge trim.....

                    Hood

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                    Roof

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                    Not real crazy about how I have to run the wire but I'm not fishing it thru the tube

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                    Got more clean up to do here

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                    An idea of what the side panels will look like when they are in place

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                    Moving right along

                    Rear case taken apart so the 4.7 gears can go in

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                    Using the bearing heater at work to get this bearing back on the shaft without a press. Bearing heaters kick serious ass by the way.

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                    I bought a Lokar throttle cable and had to modify the attachment at the mixer. I had to cut the bell crank and drill a hole in it to accept the Lokar end.

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                    Then I had to modify the gas pedal. Had to cut the end off and rotate it 90* to accept the Lokar end.

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                    My friend had given me a block off plate way back before I bought the whole LCE desmog kit with all the block off plates. It just so happens that the 2 holes in it lined up perfectly with the holes I had already drilled when I thought I would be able to use the stock throttle cable. Just had to drill the center hole for the cable end to go thru. I had to use some spacers to get it positioned right.

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                    Radiator and shroud are in
                    Got the propane stuff all mounted. Still have to run water lines here and I haven't decided on where I'm going to tie the water lines in just yet.

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                    Cleaned things up some under the dash best as I could

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                    Brakes are bled, clutch is too but not sure the clutch doesn't need more attention. Never bled a clutch before. All the switches on the 12voltguy panel are working. Going to load it up and take it to Alpine Saturday (that is chassis guys business) for redoing the front shock mounts, power steering res mounting, knuckle ball gussets, removable floor pieces and modifying the front tcase shifter since it is interfering with the gear shift. After that all that is left is exhaust and getting the propane tanks filled......then it's shakedown run time





                    Last edited by makemeknowit; 06-07-2020, 02:36 PM.
                    Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Got the exhaust done

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                      I've got header wrap for the pipe, probably going to buy some muffler specific wrap from the same outfit. Likely cut a heat shield as well out of leftover 1/8" aluminum I have and put it directly over the muffler. Changed the oil, got new radiator hoses, filled it with antifreeze, ran all the vacuum lines. Going after work tomorrow and getting the propane tanks filled and the guy who comes and works on our forklifts at work is going to come by and the plan is to fire it up. I yanked the power steering hose as my reservoir isn't mounted yet.
                      Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

                      Comment


                        #12
                        It lives!!!!!
                        Oct 19, 2016

                        I cranked it today and drove it down the street a couple of times, runs like a sewing machine and drives. I can't get over how smooth it runs. I put in extreme low gear, put the back tire at the very end of the driveway and "walked the crawler" back into the garage just for S&G's. It takes 1 min 28 sec to crawl from the end of the driveway back into the garage. Typical subdivision 2 car length driveway.



                        This is a good day!!!

                        Loaded and off to the shop.....

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                        Tore the front down to do knuckle ball gussets and alter the shock mounts by about 3". these springs aren't even broken in yet so they are going to settle some which will in turn change the uptravel/downtravel amounts to where they should be inline


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                        More shots of the knuckle ball gussets....not concerned with any weakness here now. Here is where the adjustment to my shock up/downtravel was corrected. The lower mount is about 3" higher now. Also, when we flexed it out he could tell the springs weren't broken in yet. He said my springs should have been negative at the point he had raised the driver front tire with the lift. He said by the time the springs get broken in (4-5 serious rides) my travel both directions should be where it should. Supposedly the springs were brand new when I got the truck. I went on one run and then yanked them for some RUFs, so they are likely far from cycled in.

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                        Recovery points

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                        Hood tabs

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                        Power steering res he gave me, don't know what happened to make this pic suck so bad

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                        Exhaust wrapped up

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                        Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Seats in, harnesses in and adjusted, removable floorboard pieces in. Skipped the nutserts for the floorboard pcs and I just drilled and tapped instead. The nutsert tool he had is huge and would have been a pain getting it in position in the cab area.

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                          Panels hung

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                          Drilled the hood....

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                          So it could sit over these bolts...

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                          99.999% finished

                          Mounted the CB. Might seem like a strange place but there is nowhere in the dash area to put it and more forward and centered wasn't going to work either. I'll run wiring to the switch panel later. Just using a cigarette lighter plug for now

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                          After buying the wrong size fittings from Summit, I went to Fluid Air and got what I needed to go from -AN fittings to hose barbs so I could get my hydro assist back online. Bought a new high pressure hose yesterday and put it on. Got some heat shielded loom on the line closest to the exhaust manifold


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                          Bought a piece at the hardware store to mount the air filter. The propane mixer has a 2" o.d. neck where the filter goes. The smallest filter neck I could find was 3" i.d. A little MacGyver action with some tool drawer liner stuff and I was able to make each end fit right.

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                          CO2 tank now mounted to stay. You cant see it really but the CB antenna mount is on the tank bracket

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                          Got to grease all the joints and that is pretty much it....ready for Saturday at Hawk Pride....almost 2 years since I rolled it. To say I'm a little anxious is an understatement.
                          Attached Files
                          Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

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                            #14
                            Finally out of the garage.......

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                            Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Went wheelin' 3 weekends in a row. Since I bent the rear housing on my 3rd trip out here is the replacement. It is an IFS width rear whereas the old one was a solid front axle width. Went rear disc as well. Three inches wider and it has chromoly axles to boot. Still have to modify the brake brackets to fit. Should hold up better.

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                              Decided against modifying the brackets I was given, I said to hell with it and bought a kit from JT Outfitters. In an hour and a half I had the kit installed and the brakes bled.

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                              Yolk=the yellow part of an egg, not anything rig related

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