Crate Motor and Long Distance Traveling/Hauling Reliability

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Crate Motor and Long Distance Traveling/Hauling Reliability

    My query involves swapping in a brand new crate motor and trusting it to do multiple 5,000+ mile trips all over North America, including Alaska and North Yukon/Northwest territories.

    Once a brand new crate motor is installed and dialed in; is it a set-and-forget set up?


    I would like to do long distance (coast to coast) traveling with my '94 Bronco while towing a camper trailer.

    I'm in the process of putting ton-axles in, as well as other upgrades.

    The 302 5.0L has 250,500 miles on it currently.

    I am not mechanically inclined other than routine maintenance.


    I figured I'd put a few thousand miles in said crate engine via local traveling before setting off on a serious sojourn.
    μολὼν λαβέ
    '94 Ford Bronco XL / Sky's ORD 6"lift / Sterling 10.25 dually / HMMWV tires / Bilstein shocks

    #2
    I don’t think it would be any different than any engine in a new vehicle unless you’re going with something strange. I think the bigger potential issue would be all of the other components with 250K+ miles of wear and tear on them.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Aggie06 View Post
      1) I don’t think it would be any different than any engine in a new vehicle unless you’re going with something strange.

      2) I think the bigger potential issue would be all of the other components with 250K+ miles of wear and tear on them.
      1) That's what I'm thinking/hoping.
      If I do go the crate motor route; everything directly related will be upgraded/replaced:
      a) cooling system
      b) fuel system
      c) starting system

      2) Excellent point; that's what I'm working on now.
      μολὼν λαβέ
      '94 Ford Bronco XL / Sky's ORD 6"lift / Sterling 10.25 dually / HMMWV tires / Bilstein shocks

      Comment


        #4
        Any crate motor will be built to better standards than a factory motor was in 94. The 80's-90's were not a prime example of american quality when it came to vehicles.

        Comment


          #5
          Transmission original? What about the T-case?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ironman_gq View Post
            Any crate motor will be built to better standards than a factory motor was in 94. The 80's-90's were not a prime example of american quality when it came to vehicles.
            Ok buddy.

            It'll be build to likely the same standards. A 302 is a 302. Maybe they'll throw more modern bearings and rings in and the clearances and bores will reflect the tolerances those bearings and rings want but there's not going to be anything fundamentally different. You're just less likely to get a lemon than you were in 1994 because we have better quality control processes these days.

            Comment


              #7
              I’d replace the rad, and any and all lines or hoses you will be disconnecting, because if they are original and you start fucking with them they are liable to start leaking soon even if they don’t right now. And replace any sensors or anything on the back of the block that will be a mother fucker to get at if you don’t. Other than that just do a decent break in and a couple of oil changes and rock on. If it doesn’t let loose in like 3k miles around home driving to work out any teething problems, it’s probably not going to give you any issues cross country. Besides, new motor failures are usually crib deaths, it’s going to start knocking on first start up or run for a good long while (excluding wiping out the cam, but you should be a roller block)
              PM Trampas for all of your moderation needs

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by arse_sidewards View Post

                Ok buddy.

                It'll be build to likely the same standards. A 302 is a 302. Maybe they'll throw more modern bearings and rings in and the clearances and bores will reflect the tolerances those bearings and rings want but there's not going to be anything fundamentally different. You're just less likely to get a lemon than you were in 1994 because we have better quality control processes these days.
                That's my exact point, QC is part of the build standards and the early 90's sucked. Manufacturing tolerances tend to be better these days even on the same boring old 302's, QC is better all around. Oil is better, filters are better, everything except the design is better. My point was that the chances of that crate motor having a reliability problem from the factory are going to be lower than they were on the original motor

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Broncokyle88 View Post
                  I’d replace the rad, and any and all lines or hoses you will be disconnecting, because if they are original and you start fucking with them they are liable to start leaking soon even if they don’t right now. And replace any sensors or anything on the back of the block that will be a mother fucker to get at if you don’t. Other than that just do a decent break in and a couple of oil changes and rock on. If it doesn’t let loose in like 3k miles around home driving to work out any teething problems, it’s probably not going to give you any issues cross country. Besides, new motor failures are usually crib deaths, it’s going to start knocking on first start up or run for a good long while (excluding wiping out the cam, but you should be a roller block)
                  This. It would be a good time to assess your vehicles wiring also.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Aggie06 View Post

                    This. It would be a good time to assess your vehicles wiring also.
                    Yep wiring and electrical would probably be the most likely thing to take your truck out of commision on that truck.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Motor will probably be fine, I would replace the distributor, fuel pump, cooling, and transmission while your there anyway. It’s everything else that will bite you.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 2big bronco View Post

                        Yep wiring and electrical would probably be the most likely thing to take your truck out of commision on that truck.
                        Originally posted by Norm View Post
                        Motor will probably be fine, I would replace the distributor, fuel pump, cooling, and transmission while your there anyway. It’s everything else that will bite you.
                        /
                        If I do a complete crate motor swap; I can just shitcan the entire factory wiring harness, couldn't I?

                        And just rewire everything; maybe use a Painless universal wiring harness, etc.


                        That sound reasonable/logical?
                        μολὼν λαβέ
                        '94 Ford Bronco XL / Sky's ORD 6"lift / Sterling 10.25 dually / HMMWV tires / Bilstein shocks

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by CDA 455 II View Post



                          /
                          If I do a complete crate motor swap; I can just shitcan the entire factory wiring harness, couldn't I?

                          And just rewire everything; maybe use a Painless universal wiring harness, etc.


                          That sound reasonable/logical?
                          I would keep the factory wiring, but inspect it well.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Norm View Post

                            I would keep the factory wiring, but inspect it well.
                            It's really frustrating; my current electrical issue is the rear window:
                            About 6 years ago the key switch died.

                            Last week the dash switch died.


                            So I'm going to take the top off since I have to unbolt/lift it in order to lower the tailgate (with window still up) and figure out the problem.
                            μολὼν λαβέ
                            '94 Ford Bronco XL / Sky's ORD 6"lift / Sterling 10.25 dually / HMMWV tires / Bilstein shocks

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X