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YJ Dana 30 tie rod flip?

ToyodaAddict1980

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I'm trying to help a friend get his 95 YJ to behave better on the street. I don't know shit about jeeps but It sounds to me like doing the tie rod flip on his D30 may help. Any opinions on this, am I on the right track?

His jeep is a fairly stock 95 yj, 4cyl, dana 30, 4.5" RE springs (spua), drop pitman arm, JKS track bar, sway bar, 33" tires.
 

ToyodaAddict1980

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I had him order one on those, he hasn't installed it yet. Planning on changing out all the tie rod ends and having an alignment done. Plan on installing it then. We're wondering if he should do the tie rod flip while he's at it.
 

RunningProblem

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The problem with a tie rod flip is you're cutting into an already weak area of the knuckle. You're going to need to add a tapered insert unless you're going to a heim steering setup. I highly doubt doing any of this would make it steer any better. You and him are probably better off going through every single nut, bolt, and bushing on his Jeep before drilling for over the knuckle steering just to find out the location of the tie rod doesn't change how it turns/handles.
 

ToyodaAddict1980

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Well it's a bummer to hear the tie rod flip wont help. I don't know what else to suggest to him. We have replaced every bolt/bushing on the suspension when installing the RE 4.5 lift kit. I thought that by raising the tie rod we would be taking some angle out of the drag link and that that might help. I suppose we will stick to the plan of replacing tie rod ends, adding the ruff stuff cure, and getting it aligned.
 

Cowboy63b

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I'm trying to help a friend get his 95 YJ to behave better on the street. I don't know shit about jeeps but It sounds to me like doing the tie rod flip on his D30 may help. Any opinions on this, am I on the right track?

His jeep is a fairly stock 95 yj, 4cyl, dana 30, 4.5" RE springs (spua), drop pitman arm, JKS track bar, sway bar, 33" tires.
What is it doing? walking, death wobble, etc....
 

Eric

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Define "behave better". What exactly is the problem? Remember, its a Jeep so expectations need to be tempered accordingly. If "wandering" is the issue then I would start by dialing in the caster angle.
 

ToyodaAddict1980

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We would like for him to be able to somewhat comfortably run it on the highway for a couple hours too and from where we wheel.

I haven't driven it. He is complaining that he constantly has to steer it, so wandering I guess. From what he says I suspect there is some bump steer going on as well. No deathwobble
 

TRINDU

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4.5" lift is a roller skate on 33s, need to drop it down a couple inches, minimum.

2.5 drivetrain is a fuck up waiting to happen, that combo ain't wheeling shit in stock form.

You can buy tie rod inserts to weld in for a tie rod flip, but you're pissing in the wind.
 

Cowboy63b

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We would like for him to be able to somewhat comfortably run it on the highway for a couple hours too and from where we wheel.

I haven't driven it. He is complaining that he constantly has to steer it, so wandering I guess. From what he says I suspect there is some bump steer going on as well. No deathwobble
I would start with an alignment and see where the numbers are. I agree with Eric that the caster is out of whack after the lift.
 

Byro

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Caster and toe. Most alignment shops will over look caster as its “not a tire wearing” adjustment. It does however have a huge effect on tracking and return to center.

Maximum factory toe-in and maximum factory positive caster. You may need to shim the leafs to get it where it needs to be. Also excessive play in the box and/or steering shaft u-joints will cause the “constant steering” issue as well.
 

SLOWPOKE693

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Bump steer is probably caused by the YJ front track bar. On a lifted jeep with stock steering the angles don't match very well and creates problems. I had a YJ a looooong time ago with a 4" kit and 33's that would pull one way on acceleration and the other way when you hit the brakes. The trackbar and steering were not playing nice and the axle shift was causing all my problems. Have your buddy disconnect the track bar and report back.
 

ToyodaAddict1980

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4.5" lift is a roller skate on 33s, need to drop it down a couple inches, minimum.

2.5 drivetrain is a fuck up waiting to happen, that combo ain't wheeling shit in stock form.

You can buy tie rod inserts to weld in for a tie rod flip, but you're pissing in the wind.
He likes the lift. He had OME 2" springs that I liked but he thought the 4.5 would help keep him from hitting shit with his shackles. He wants to get some 35's, I don't think the 4.88s are enough gear for 35's.

He has had alot of fun with the jeep and its held up fine... so far. He's not rock crawling. He swapped the D35 for an 8.8, super 8.8 kit, spool and 4.88s. I would like to see him get some kind of tcase gearing but I'm not familiar with what jeeps are running. I told him to get an atlas :stirthepot:.

At this point I'm more worried about getting him to the trail.
 

ToyodaAddict1980

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I appreciate the suggestions. We will replace the rod ends, install ruff stuff cure, get an alignment, see where the caster is at (anyone now where we want it to be?), and give it a try without the track bar.
 

ToyodaAddict1980

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I forgot about this thread. He replaced all the rod ends, installed the cure and it's behaving alot better. He's waiting on new tires before getting the alignment done. He also ordered a bestop supertop/doors.

The steering box is leaking a little and There is fair amount of movement from the steering shaft before the pitman arm moves. I have read that some people are using a Dodge Durango steering gear. Would you guys recommend that over a new stock gear ?
 

Aisin

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It’s a jeep. My buddy has one. We did a 2.5 inch lift. We went thru the entire front end new everything, bushings, tie rods, adjustable trailing arms, new steering box, ruff stuff steering fix and it still wanders. He lives with it.
 

rockota

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Spool on that short of wheelbase probably isn’t helping.
 
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