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fordguy

blah.
Joined
Nov 24, 2022
Member Number
5787
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280
So followinf projecttwins builds, I decided to glue my MDF enclosure for my 12w7 sub, versus screws

Thought I was doing great until I clamps pieces together, they slid out of alignment, and I had a bitch of a time moving them into place, its like as soon as I clamps, glue started drying (titebond II).

I did OK after a lot of cussing later, but need to rethink this foe the future. I got these clamps at Lowez, on sale for 12 dollars each, they seem great for what they are


However google shows people reer to "parallel clamps"


Are parallel clamps so much superior to regular ones I got? Should I return them and get these instead? When shoiuld I be using each set? Shoild I invest in a biscuit tool?

I plan on building a dresser with drawers foe the bedroom next, so while the MDF box is 95% good, the dresser would like 100%.

I have apocket hole jig too, are the first set of clamps acceptable for holding things up for drawers as I drill pocket holes, s
or I should be using the 90 degree angled one that gold corners together?

p.s. Yes, I realized I used bit too much glue. First time usinf glue.
 
subybaja said:
Sprinkle a little sand in the glueup, and it won't slide.
Click to expand...

I saw this mentioned online too, wasnt sure what to make of that


What about clamps? I got six of the 24" ones on sale for 12 bucks each, should I return and buy the "parallel" for drawers and squareness? Or makes little difference?
 
I always used either a brad nailer or just a staple gun in a few places to keep it together while the clamps do their stuff
 
To answer your original question:

F clamps suck ass.


If you're on a budget, skip a lot of parallel clamps, and get these instead:


Then cut a piece of pine so it juuuuuust squeezes inside. You could do a half dozen clamps in a couple hours, easy.



And to pile on everyone else - use the clamp for holding it together long enough to do some predrill/countersunk screws or brad nails (I prefer screws)


then get rid of the clampsp.
 
well shit. I would have assumed an enclosure sees more force than drawers.

Why is the woodworking world clamping then? When should I be using clamps in that case (general woodworking)?
 
fordguy said:
well shit. I would have assumed an enclosure sees more force than drawers.

Why is the woodworking world clamping then? When should I be using clamps in that case (general woodworking)?
Click to expand...


Because some joints don't use screws. You generally clamp shit until the glue dries. Your mdf enclosure is shitty wood that's dense - not fine woodworking. It's going to get glued/screwed because that's the most effective connection method.

A bridle joint or blind wedged tenon would get clamped until the glue dries, just to prevent any misalignment, for example.
 
Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
Because some joints don't use screws. You generally clamp shit until the glue dries. Your mdf enclosure is shitty wood that's dense - not fine woodworking. It's going to get glued/screwed because that's the most effective connection method.

A bridle joint or blind wedged tenon would get clamped until the glue dries, just to prevent any misalignment, for example.
Click to expand...

I swear, everytime I read something and do it, it turns out different. Ive always screwed my enclosures, but after projectwins threads where he stated no screws, decided to glue it together. Guess I forgot about the brad nail part and assumed clamps.

Its still 1/64 off at the worse point so I can work with that, but drawers would like perfect.

Thanks, learned sumthin. Ill keep a couple of the 24" F clamps and return the rest. The urge to hoard them for 12 bucks is strong, but I will fight it.
 
I pre-build it all with screws. Make sure it all works and then I pull it down, and put it together with glue and screws.

It's MDF. Not fancy woodworking :flipoff2:

I generally am doing sealed because of space and my preferred sound (I'm old, I value accuracy much more than thump).
So they all get a generous coating of silicone on the inside to insure they're air tight.

I built my last box on a tailgate with a cordless wood saw and a 4' level in 2 hours. Sub came apart on me and I couldn't get anything locally that would come close to using the old box. Sure wasn't going to drive 3 hours the next day without a sub. :laughing:
 
Brad nails ARE your clamps until the glue dries.

Parallel clamps are many times better than those you linked. Those have their purpose but not for glue ups or carcass construction.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You don't know many cabinet makers do you? :laughing:
Click to expand...
Building a cabinet to go in your kitchen is going to be built much differently that an MDF speaker box. I'd be using 2.5" wood screws and glue if it was me. Lots of pressure unless it's ported box and even then.

I use parallel clamps all the time to build cabinets when you don't want exposed brads, screws, etc. And no, I don't use stupid fucking pocket screws :shaking:
 
Pshht. Never glued my enclosures, just screwed together and caulked the inside. But I'm not ballooning body panels like ProjectTwin.
 
I'm a furniture and cabinet maker. Keep those F clamps, they're awesome. I've got over 100 in all lengths and use them for every single project. I've got a dozen parallel clamps and mainly use them for door rail and stile glue ups and panel glue ups.

Be honest with yourself about expectations. 1/64" is damn good for a newbie. Drawers don't even need that tight of tolerance. Most of your current tools aren't going to give you any higher level of perfection. Do as good as you can each project, learn where you can do better, and move on.
 
 
Bought a Metabo 18ga brad nailer at Lowes, and 2" nails

Ran ok a test piece without any adjustments, it seem to crack the MDF. What did I do wrong now :homer:

my concern for 1/64 was the gap would cause thr glue ti not bond well. I used a small orbital sander, and fucked up even worse. So I ran the whole box through the table saw and got that fixed.
 
fordguy said:
Bought a Metabo 18ga brad nailer at Lowes, and 2" nails

Ran ok a test piece without any adjustments, it seem to crack the MDF. What did I do wrong now :homer:

my concern for 1/64 was the gap would cause thr glue ti not bond well. I used a small orbital sander, and fucked up even worse. So I ran the whole box through the table saw and got that fixed.
Click to expand...
1 1/2” brads would be safer, it’s just a clamp until the glue dries.

Look at the chisel point on the brad, turn the gun so the brads don’t wedge the MDF apart. Don’t nail the exact centerline every time, slightly varying your nail pattern helps with the splitting. Don’t over nail!

Without letting it dry, coat the MDF end grain with glue and let it absorb just before the assembly glue up. This will buy you some time before the glue grabs but, everything will slip easier!
 
fordguy said:
well shit. I would have assumed an enclosure sees more force than drawers.

Why is the woodworking world clamping then? When should I be using clamps in that case (general woodworking)?
Click to expand...

You need clamps. Many, many clamps, of every description. I'll take a picture of our clamp racks at work later today.

I might use clamps to hold a piece in place that will act as a stop during assembly, or to hold a trim piece on around the opening, or to hold a routering jig in place, just off the top of my head thinking of a sub box.
 
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