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Wood flooring question

ProjectTwin

ProjectTwin

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I plan on installing wood floors in the place I mentioned from 1850.

It currently has OSB subfloors on the first floor above a dirt crawlspace.

I want to make/install Versailles floor panels and install them down the hallway from the front door to the rear door (which is a straight shot), splitting the space in half.

1728856339026.png


1728856411236.png


How many of you have experience with parquet floors and installation?

I'm assuming I'd want ply subfloors instead of OSB and I know the parquet panels have to be glued down, but the rest would be standard tongue and groove hardwood that I should be able to install with a standard flooring nailer. That means cutting a groove in one side of the Versailles panels and cutting a groove and installing a tonque on the opposite side.

At that point, when it's time to lay the tonque and groove flooring, what's the best stuff to use between the sub floor and hardwood? I've seen 15oz roofing felt mentioned as well as other, name brand stuff.

Input?
 
SomeGuy said:
Sounds like way too much work for some ugly/dated floors...
Click to expand...
Reminded me of the 80s. Not that they were ugly, but you ever look at house sale pictures and they scream 80s, 90s, etc, those floors definitely do that.

My folks have linoleum in the living room sort of in that pattern. Was installed maybe 84 or 85, still there.
My Dad is 64 and pretty much has run out of gas for remodeling.
Where they live in Maine, $100 invested in a house, might see $5 when selling. Decent houses often go for $60-75k.
 
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We used bostik adhesives, follow their trowel guidelines.

No idea on the parque specifics. We always used plywood on the subfloor regardless.

Hardwood floor suppliers sell spline for adding the tongue, and there's a specific router bit Im sure you're aware of.

There's tons of underlayments out there. Nice flat subfloors we just used the basic aquabar stuff, or the 15lb felt. Shitty subfloors we'd bust out the 30lb, or sometimes even vinyl flooring remnants (sometimes you could buy it cheaper than the rest of the stuff )
 
Ummduh said:
We used bostik adhesives, follow their trowel guidelines.

No idea on the parque specifics. We always used plywood on the subfloor regardless.

Hardwood floor suppliers sell spline for adding the tongue, and there's a specific router bit Im sure you're aware of.

There's tons of underlayments out there. Nice flat subfloors we just used the basic aquabar stuff, or the 15lb felt. Shitty subfloors we'd bust out the 30lb, or sometimes even vinyl flooring remnants (sometimes you could buy it cheaper than the rest of the stuff )
Click to expand...

I've seen that the 15lb felt is used quite a bit and in my research saw that I'd have to buy splines. When I make the Versailles panels I'll definitely put the router to use for tongue/groove. I may just set up two routers and make it easy. I know those panels are going to take forever to make and the only way to get through it somewhat quickly is to make a jig to simplify making the individual pieces.


I'll have to yank the OSB out of the entire first floor (about 1,500 sq ft) and drop ply in its place. Do you have a prefence as far as ply thickness?
 
If the house was built in 1850, the OSB subfloors obviously aren’t original, which is good. If they were they would be under all the bottom plates and you’d have to cut along every wall. You still might want to consider what a PITA it is to remove it, if they used a nail every 12” and adhesive.

Any chance you’d be ok with a herringbone floor down the main hallway? Way less work, way more modern/cleaner/value to the house install, and still adds the character/detail.
 
Gatorgrizz27 said:
If the house was built in 1850, the OSB subfloors obviously aren’t original, which is good. If they were they would be under all the bottom plates and you’d have to cut along every wall. You still might want to consider what a PITA it is to remove it, if they used a nail every 12” and adhesive.

Any chance you’d be ok with a herringbone floor down the main hallway? Way less work, way more modern/cleaner/value to the house install, and still adds the character/detail.
Click to expand...

I really don't want herringbone. I want the more intricate pattern along the center. Those complaining about "dated" flooring I don't think understand the history behind it and the fact that it's going into a house that 174 years old. While not 100% correct for the time the place was built, it won't be out of place either.

The goal is to modernize the interior while maintaining some throwbacks to the old place. Floors and some fixtures are how I plan to keep some of the old in the place.

For example, the Minka Aire Gyro. This will be the fan for the main area. I wanted a Westinghouse Gryo, but the Minka Aire unit will be cheaper and have the look.



Is OSB ok to glue down to with the main run of near hall width tiles? Is there a need to yank it for ply?
 
ProjectTwin said:
I really don't want herringbone. I want the more intricate pattern along the center. Those complaining about "dated" flooring I don't think understand the history behind it and the fact that it's going into a house that 174 years old. While not 100% correct for the time the place was built, it won't be out of place either.

The goal is to modernize the interior while maintaining some throwbacks to the old place. Floors and some fixtures are how I plan to keep some of the old in the place.

For example, the Minka Aire Gyro. This will be the fan for the main area. I wanted a Westinghouse Gryo, but the Minka Aire unit will be cheaper and have the look.



Is OSB ok to glue down to with the main run of near hall width tiles? Is there a need to yank it for ply?
Click to expand...

I like those floors. Old time stuff is cool, fuck everyone who says otherwise. Sorry I have no tech.


That gyro in your video isn't nearly as sexy as the westinghouse one with no guards.

No love for belt drive?

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Not a fan of OSB, especially for sub-flooring, Can you do 3/4 T&G ply, and then your parquet? 15lb felt seems old school and should work. I used rosin paper (IIRC) under 3/4' T&G hardwood flooring when I put it down. I think it came in ~500sqf rolls, and was redish in color.
 
Grnjp92 said:
Rosin paper is what the the high end houses I've worked on got under the floors. I suppose to let the wood expand and contract easily.
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My dad had floors (entery area) like that in his house. They were glued down with some black glue that could be removed with a heat gun. They were laid down over hardwood floors and on wet winters it would pop up and we would have to wait for it to dry then we would set it back in place. He finally got tired of that and we ripped it out.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I like those floors. Old time stuff is cool, fuck everyone who says otherwise. Sorry I have no tech.


That gyro in your video isn't nearly as sexy as the westinghouse one with no guards.

No love for belt drive?

0c0e352c76f813a953c2ee35ee32699e.jpg
3577272e70811fe148b1452e465dfe0d.jpg
Click to expand...

Geezus. I had forgotten about belt drives.
:homer:

The down side to the belt drives is that the ceiling is vaulted. It's making me lean towards a single fan.

Looking at these for the bedroom and office.

1728871758185.png
 
ProjectTwin said:
Geezus. I had forgotten about belt drives.
:homer:

The down side to the belt drives is that the ceiling is vaulted. It's making me lean towards a single fan.
Click to expand...
thats nothing a double cardan couldnt fix. Would make the whole assembly that much cooler.

I forgot to say, the fan you posted in that video looks alright, except for the cage around the blades. I find it ruins the looks, and I KNOW it kills the airflow. Cage like that kills like 2/3rds of the airflow.
 
Our house is slightly older being built in 1818, and I’m sitting here drinking my coffee looking at the original pine board floors. They are two layers of 1” boards and the bottom layer had a shiplap type of joint to them.

The kitchen floor was redone in 1900 or so, and 2x6 were used as the sub floor. Not sure why, could have been what was available, or who knows. The previous owner ripped up the pine boards in the kitchen and put down linoleum in the 1970’s.

I’ll be watching this thread as I’m interested to see how it goes.
 
ProjectTwin said:
I've seen that the 15lb felt is used quite a bit and in my research saw that I'd have to buy splines. When I make the Versailles panels I'll definitely put the router to use for tongue/groove. I may just set up two routers and make it easy. I know those panels are going to take forever to make and the only way to get through it somewhat quickly is to make a jig to simplify making the individual pieces.


I'll have to yank the OSB out of the entire first floor (about 1,500 sq ft) and drop ply in its place. Do you have a prefence as far as ply thickness?
Click to expand...

First consideration is getting finished floor heights matched up, beyond that, mostly dictated by your floor joists. Assuming you're going to remove the current subfloor?

I can't say OSB won't work, just we never used it.

Is there a basement or is this a raised foundation?
 
ProjectTwin said:
I've seen that the 15lb felt is used quite a bit and in my research saw that I'd have to buy splines. When I make the Versailles panels I'll definitely put the router to use for tongue/groove. I may just set up two routers and make it easy. I know those panels are going to take forever to make and the only way to get through it somewhat quickly is to make a jig to simplify making the individual pieces.


I'll have to yank the OSB out of the entire first floor (about 1,500 sq ft) and drop ply in its place. Do you have a prefence as far as ply thickness?
Click to expand...

First consideration is getting floor heights matched up, beyond that, mostly dictated by your floor joists. Assuming you're going to remove the current subfloor?

I can't say OSB won't work, just we never used it. I did hardwood floors for 7 years, so I'm not a lifetimer guy. We really only worked on $1m+ houses. The biggest I worked on was a $20m house in SF.

Is there a basement or is this a raised foundation?
 
Historically, hardwood flooring was always face nailed. I don't understand how you plan to make and install the panels to inlay between the straight runs.
 
ProjectTwin said:
I plan on installing wood floors in the place I mentioned from 1850.

It currently has OSB subfloors on the first floor above a dirt crawlspace.

I want to make/install Versailles floor panels and install them down the hallway from the front door to the rear door (which is a straight shot), splitting the space in half.

1728856339026.png


1728856411236.png


How many of you have experience with parquet floors and installation?

I'm assuming I'd want ply subfloors instead of OSB and I know the parquet panels have to be glued down, but the rest would be standard tongue and groove hardwood that I should be able to install with a standard flooring nailer. That means cutting a groove in one side of the Versailles panels and cutting a groove and installing a tonque on the opposite side.

At that point, when it's time to lay the tonque and groove flooring, what's the best stuff to use between the sub floor and hardwood? I've seen 15oz roofing felt mentioned as well as other, name brand stuff.

Input?
Click to expand...
I did 15lbs under a snap down laminate floor and it squeaks a bit. Not aure if its the felt of the flooring or both. There were no squeaks when it was carpet or when I walked the fuck out of the subfloor looking to make sure there weren’t any squeaks to kill. Just my experience but figured I would share.
 
Ummduh said:
First consideration is getting floor heights matched up, beyond that, mostly dictated by your floor joists. Assuming you're going to remove the current subfloor?

I can't say OSB won't work, just we never used it. I did hardwood floors for 7 years, so I'm not a lifetimer guy. We really only worked on $1m+ houses. The biggest I worked on was a $20m house in SF.

Is there a basement or is this a raised foundation?
Click to expand...

As far as removing the current subfloor, that’s why I’m here asking. I don’t want to do all this fucking work to make the Versailles panels and glue them to OSB if OSB is the wrong shit to use under the panels. I don’t think OSB is a concern under the standard tongue and groove hardwood, but I definitely don’t want to fuck up and have to repeat work and possibly waste material over something stupid that folks here have the answer to.

There’s a crawl space under it. Dirt. I’ll have to encapsulate it.
 
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ProjectTwin said:
As far as removing the current subfloor, that’s why I’m here asking. I don’t want to do all this fucking work to make the Versailles panels and glue them to OSB is OSB is the wrong shit to use under the panels. I don’t think OSB is a concern under the standard tongue and groove hardwood, but I definitely don’t want to fuck up and have to repeat work and possibly waste material over something stupid that folks here have the answer to.

There’s a crawl space under it. Dirt. I’ll have to encapsulate it.
Click to expand...

I can't say with 100% certainty, but I don't see why osb would be a problem to glue to. You're not going to find any recent homes that are anything other than osb subfloors.

I can't help a lot, the guy I worked for refused to glue to wood subfloors directly (he said it was unethical because of they ever wanted to remove it...). We'd only glue to slabs.
 
I would figure out what glue you want to use and then check their subfloor requirements.
 
Eww. OSB. Plywood dreams on a particle board budget.

I tore 70s parquet out of my bathroom recently. It had some black mastic holding it down. I ripped out the subfloor instead, then went back with rosin paper and 3/4 ply over the original diagonal t&g.
 
If anyone else talked about making their own parquet, I'd ask what they're smoking, but you've got the eye for detail to do it right! Thread please?
 
Subfloor is usually under all the walls…. You’re going to uncover some serious fuckery I bet…..

As long as the OSB is tongue and groove you’d be fine…… gonna have to do some serious blocking around perimeter and up to interior walls….

aquabar or felt is good enough for my house!!!!!
 
Pony_Driver said:
Not a fan of OSB, especially for sub-flooring, Can you do 3/4 T&G ply, and then your parquet? 15lb felt seems old school and should work. I used rosin paper (IIRC) under 3/4' T&G hardwood flooring when I put it down. I think it came in ~500sqf rolls, and was redish in color.
Click to expand...
Good OSB like Advantech is much better for a subfloor than plywood.

Now the shitty stuff that most stores sell for $$$, mehhh.
 
subybaja said:
If anyone else talked about making their own parquet, I'd ask what they're smoking, but you've got the eye for detail to do it right! Thread please?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm honestly not worried about being able to make the panels, I KNOW I can make the panels.

I also know I'll get grief from the uppity purists for installing the Versailles panels square instead of on a diagonal like in the palace.

...and I DO agree that the herringbone parquet is kind of ugly. I wouldn't do that at all. It's the intricacy of the Versailles panels that I like.
 
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