What's new

Willys 2a 4L60E budget renovation basic tools

tiptoptune

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2020
Member Number
3142
Messages
23
Taking the plunge and posting this mod/build if you call it that. A get er done with basic tools and beergineering swapping from a Dauntless carb V6, T18 6.xx 4spd, 3.15 D18, 4.56 narrowed Waggy D44s to 2000 Chev 4.3, 4L60E, NP241, same 4.56. Sorry, not going to be a topnotch build like so many of you do, rather a low budget, factory parts for reliability, using basic tools and hoping to have completed by June and yep I barely started. Will be asking for help and feedback, so share away. Going for short stretch and retain body proportions. Bought it 21 years ago with a fiberglass body and the Dauntless, added the rest including 35’s, rear spool and front arb, 3,500 #. Gets used 50%+ offroad in Colorado, rocks, snow wheeling in Spring. Goal is to have it be more capable and cannot wait to shift as needed under load. Is fully caged to frame including front bars to radiator hoop. Did same swap to a 72 Commando a few years back. I going to miss the current drivetrain as it works well, but I tell myself go auto so I can shift full throttle and more.

Some details

  • Thinning a S10 harness and using the underhood fuse box for all electrical – 75% complete.
  • PCM being tuned by Jims Performance - ready to send with some experienced advice from this group.
  • Using original frame, cutting it behind front leaf rear hanger adding all the length in mid-section, widening front section a bit and the rear section a bit more. Weekend away from completing snow plow mount on Commando and then off the body comes. Willys is my current plow and living at 10,000 feet I need a plow.
  • Done the math and have a plan for a 15 to 21 inch rear d shaft depending on rad fan – mech or electric.
  • JB conversions shorty sye – need shift fork pads to complete install.
  • Clocking the NP241 with GLO ring – need to purchase.


Few things I could use help with to start.

Am I going to kick myself with an auto and miss the current set up that I dreamed about having 35 years?

  • Need more gearing?
  • Cooling fan – not ever run electric. Taurus, Lincoln, is there a better one?
  • Do these programming mods Jim Perf recommended sound good
  • Increase line pressure from 90 to 120 ( I think 120 is what he said)
  • Speed/firm up all shifts 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4?
  • Raise rev limit by 200rpm
  • Turn on electric fan control
  • Deleting post cat O2, vats, evap, keeping egr if exhaust manifold and steer shaft will clear.
Pic of current set up. Axles pushed out a bit, think 6-8 over stock.
IMG_6810.JPG
 
Currently if you have the granny T-18

T18 1st gear 6.32 x t-case 3.15 x axle 4.56=90.78 crawl ratio

4l60e 1st gear 3.06 x t-case 2.72 x axle 4.56=37.96 crawl ratio

I've read that for an auto tranny you want to be around 75 for the crawl ratio and your new set up is half that. . Also others say that you double your final crawl ratio if your tranny isn't in lock-up, so that would put you right around 75. Others say between 50-60 is what you want and then others say 40 is good. So as usual it's all confusing and really you may not know until you drive it and maybe you have to add a doubler(or add it now and have an extra advantage in the gear ratio war) or change gear ratios if it doesn't meet your expectations. Hopefully someone will chime in with some real world experience and help decipher the internet info out there. I need to add that I have no experience with an auto, although my current build is using a 4L80e(just haven't made it crawling yet to be able to confirm anything), so it's all how you drive, what trails you drive and all the other variables tossed in if it will perform like you want it too. It will be interesting to hear how it works out.
 
Stretch it at least a foot. Maybe more. YJ's (92" wheelbase) have driveshaft issues with a slip eliminators on the transfercase. I ran Waggy 44s for about a decade with no problems (other than forgetting to tighten the upper eccentric on the D44). I went 26" inches on the body and stretched the wheelbase a couple times after to get to around 115".

While I am a Ford guy, your engine and transmission combo are a pretty good choice for a light, simple wheeler. Rod ( @46Wilyz ) ran that combo for years and did great on all the trails in the Sierras. I think lower t-case gears would be a welcome combo however with an auto. 4.56 with 35s is plenty of gear.
 
thanks for the help. Really appreciate it!
Shorter t case - agree but this is a low budget retire early in life jeep so not wanting to break the bank. I thought a lot about options and cost, Hell i thinking I only have 10 -15 years more and i will not be wanting to crawl in and out of this thing. 241 case is same length as a 231 and 300 have to flip with a 4L60E and with the JB Conversions Shorty kit that i have mostly installed it shortens the 241 t case by 9 inches. The JB kits seems top notch and John calls you back which says a lot these days.
Ratio - thanks for that calc. I was lazy and did not do. hoping the converter makes up for loss. Anyone with real experience with similar set up? My back up plan is lower axle gearing and let more air out. Went 4.56 years ago and not 4.88 for one more pinion tooth and greater contact. I have had a couple ring pinions fail from shock load landing.
Stretch - I really want to keep it as short as possible for tight turning and the wifey not going to be happy when sees the body cut in half. Willys 2a original WB is 80, I already at 86 and my calcs put it at 91 but may end up inch or two longer depending on fan. D shaft may only be 2 -3 inches shorter than current but the d 18 low rear output helps. Also will be keeping ride height similar to current with 3-4 up and 3-4 down travel. Running yj 2 inch sua.

Anyone on pcm programming?
Electric fan to use?

Trying to get all i do not have wrapped up so no hold ups. Hate it when have time and no parts.
 
Last edited:
Jim's Performance is great. Use him.
Fan-wise you shoud decide what radiator you're using first then pick a fan based on that.
 
You can't go wrong with a Taurus or Volvo 2 speed fan. We did put a 3000cfm fan from Speedway in my brother's CJ3A that has a 5.0 explorer motor in it and it did the trick. I don't recall if it was a Flex-a-lite or not, but I went and looked on Speedway's site and it looks like it, but man it's $423 now and when he bought it 3 yrs ago it was around $200-$250 I think, so it's not very budget friendly. It looked a lot like the one linked and it may be the one linked, but the price is way different, so I'm not sure.

 
You can't go wrong with a Taurus or Volvo 2 speed fan. We did put a 3000cfm fan from Speedway in my brother's CJ3A that has a 5.0 explorer motor in it and it did the trick. I don't recall if it was a Flex-a-lite or not, but I went and looked on Speedway's site and it looks like it, but man it's $423 now and when he bought it 3 yrs ago it was around $200-$250 I think, so it's not very budget friendly. It looked a lot like the one linked and it may be the one linked, but the price is way different, so I'm not sure.


Lincoln Mark 8 fan is good too.

I did a write up on this:

thanks for the help. Really appreciate it!
Shorter t case - agree but this is a low budget retire early in life jeep so not wanting to break the bank. I thought a lot about options and cost, Hell i thinking I only have 10 -15 years more and i will not be wanting to crawl in and out of this thing. 241 case is same length as a 231 and 300 have to flip with a 4L60E and with the JB Conversions Shorty kit that i have mostly installed it shortens the 241 t case by 9 inches. The JB kits seems top notch and John calls you back which says a lot these days.
Ratio - thanks for that calc. I was lazy and did not do. hoping the converter makes up for loss. Anyone with real experience with similar set up? My back up plan is lower axle gearing and let more air out. Went 4.56 years ago and not 4.88 for one more pinion tooth and greater contact. I have had a couple ring pinions fail from shock load landing.
Stretch - I really want to keep it as short as possible for tight turning and the wifey not going to be happy when sees the body cut in half. Willys 2a original WB is 80, I already at 86 and my calcs put it at 91 but may end up inch or two longer depending on fan. D shaft may only be 2 -3 inches shorter than current but the d 18 low rear output helps. Also will be keeping ride height similar to current with 3-4 up and 6 -9 down travel. Running yj 2 inch sua.

Anyone on pcm programming?
Electric fan to use?

Trying to get all i do not have wrapped up so no hold ups. Hate it when have time and no parts.


You're all wrong on the short wheelbase thing. Stretch it as much as you can tolerate - because the extra length is the same amount of effort. It's not even worth it to stretch the body a few inches. Unless you wear a size 7 shoe, I don't even know how you fit in the damned thing as is.

The difference in your turning radius in 4wd will be nominal from 80 inches to 100 inches. Put on sliders and you're good to go. It also has the added benefit of being able to sustain highway speeds without the need for life insurance and not requiring a strap on steep uphill sections.

I've been there, done that. Stretch it.

1677885771685.jpeg

1677885522885.jpeg
 
I like my short wb for my low rigs on small tires. However, 86" on 35s is pushing it. I like the idea of about a 6" stretch in the door area.

As far as the D300, are you saying you have to flip it to clear the pan? I was going to say to use the D18, but I remember Fred Williams having a heck of a time trying to make it work with a Th350.

Honestly an Lt230 tcase would be sweet with your setup. It may not be much shorter, but puts the out put lower and more inline with your offset rear.

I think you're going to have issues with your rear driveshaft. If you end up needing a custom one, the money could have just went to a better tcase.
 
Lincoln Mark 8 fan is good too.

I did a write up on this:




You're all wrong on the short wheelbase thing. Stretch it as much as you can tolerate - because the extra length is the same amount of effort. It's not even worth it to stretch the body a few inches. Unless you wear a size 7 shoe, I don't even know how you fit in the damned thing as is.

The difference in your turning radius in 4wd will be nominal from 80 inches to 100 inches. Put on sliders and you're good to go. It also has the added benefit of being able to sustain highway speeds without the need for life insurance and not requiring a strap on steep uphill sections.

I've been there, done that. Stretch it.

1677885771685.jpeg

1677885522885.jpeg
Thanks for the fan info.
Sticking with my plan as for stretch. Sliders??? Thought that is what the body edge is for. It currently is 86 inch wheelbase and goes down the road at 60 with very good road manners. I 6 feet and notched wheel well sliding seat back and been wheeling, plowing snow and grocery getting in it for 20 plus years. Rear driveshaft - crossing fingers going to work. will be mocking up drivetrain before final stretch.
 
I like my short wb for my low rigs on small tires. However, 86" on 35s is pushing it. I like the idea of about a 6" stretch in the door area.

As far as the D300, are you saying you have to flip it to clear the pan? I was going to say to use the D18, but I remember Fred Williams having a heck of a time trying to make it work with a Th350.

Honestly an Lt230 tcase would be sweet with your setup. It may not be much shorter, but puts the out put lower and more inline with your offset rear.

I think you're going to have issues with your rear driveshaft. If you end up needing a custom one, the money could have just went to a better tcase.
What do you mean by "pushing it"? I have had this set up 86wb 35s sua yj springs for 15 years and it works for me. Road worthy and plenty capable to do Colorado trails of Chinamen and Holy Cross pretty easily. It has been on its side only once and that was before i changed to yj springs and d44s and was at 80wb.
Doing the extra work to stretch the body a little here and there to keep proportions looking similar to original.
D300 flip - I am using a 4L60e trans that has the pan offset to passenger side and in a narrow framed vehicle with narrower than full width axles the front shaft has to go driver side unless pillow block it. That is why i would have to flip a 300. Cost of a 300 and adapter is another reason i am using np241. And that 241s are plentiful and cheap in the midwest. Got one for $100 when on a road trip and i lucked out. It is spotless inside and chain is tight. Remember this is s low budget, retire early in life, simple and reliable project using basic tools that will take a bit of skinny pedal abuse. Am a bit concerned on loss of gearing and how that rear d shaft will work, but i giving it a go and will share findings comparing it to the lower geared setup it has now. I googled the lt230 and i would have to work longer if i go that route. If it would even adapt to my 4l60e. Thanks for the suggestion on it.
D shaft cost - hoping to make myself from used double cardon shafts i have laying around that i can shorten. Done it numerous times.
Sorry, not a glamorous build but i do appreciate all the ideas. Some of my reason for posting this project is to help others on a budget. Eta to decommission it is early April once i have my 4.3 Commando ready for plowing. Plow is mounted and tested last weekend. Last item is to complete install of hydro boost brake unit to get increased boost i need due to lowering mc pushrod pivot on pedal to get proper stroke. Pic of Commando with the plow mounted. Willys parts needed - fan and shifters from junk yard in a couple weeks. Anyone know of a auto shifter to look for that i can remove the gates except for park?
IMG_0023.JPG
 
What do you mean by "pushing it"? I have had this set up 86wb 35s sua yj springs for 15 years and it works for me. Road worthy and plenty capable to do Colorado trails of Chinamen and Holy Cross pretty easily. It has been on its side only once and that was before i changed to yj springs and d44s and was at 80wb.
Doing the extra work to stretch the body a little here and there to keep proportions looking similar to original.

By pushing it, I mean that it's a little too short for my taste. If it works for you, then go for it. I do agree that some people get obsessed with ultra long wheelbase. It obviously has advantages, but I believe can have more disadvantages than people realize.
D300 flip - I am using a 4L60e trans that has the pan offset to passenger side and in a narrow framed vehicle with narrower than full width axles the front shaft has to go driver side unless pillow block it. That is why i would have to flip a 300. Cost of a 300 and adapter is another reason i am using np241. And that 241s are plentiful and cheap in the midwest. Got one for $100 when on a road trip and i lucked out. It is spotless inside and chain is tight. Remember this is s low budget, retire early in life, simple and reliable project using basic tools that will take a bit of skinny pedal abuse. Am a bit concerned on loss of gearing and how that rear d shaft will work, but i giving it a go and will share findings comparing it to the lower geared setup it has now. I googled the lt230 and i would have to work longer if i go that route. If it would even adapt to my 4l60e. Thanks for the suggestion on it.
D shaft cost - hoping to make myself from used double cardon shafts i have laying around that i can shorten. Done it numerous times.
Sorry, not a glamorous build but i do appreciate all the ideas. Some of my reason for posting this project is to help others on a budget. Eta to decommission it is early April once i have my 4.3 Commando ready for plowing. Plow is mounted and tested last weekend. Last item is to complete install of hydro boost brake unit to get increased boost i need due to lowering mc pushrod pivot on pedal to get proper stroke. Pic of Commando with the plow mounted. Willys parts needed - fan and shifters from junk yard in a couple weeks. Anyone know of a auto shifter to look for that i can remove the gates except for park?

You're assuming that a factory shaft that's just shortened will work.

You keep mentioning being cheap, but how cheap is it going to be to swap to an opposite side front axle going to be?

Are you running an offset rear axle?
 
Most likely can have factory ECM control the fan signal. I believe the ECM in your 2000 4.3 is similar to the one on my 2001 8.1 which has that ability.

Personally I would not mess with a lot of the "tuning" on that unless you really need the performance. Stock tuning works and is reliable.

Delete all that garbage off the engine and clear the codes out including the EGR.
 
Adding a few inches is a waste of time, but it sounds like you have a lot of it.
I love it! yeah i question my sanity at times. Going to be quite a few beers involved in planning. My neighbor says he got's a sawzall but can't cut straight but he will bring the beer, so i hired him.
 
By pushing it, I mean that it's a little too short for my taste. If it works for you, then go for it. I do agree that some people get obsessed with ultra long wheelbase. It obviously has advantages, but I believe can have more disadvantages than people realize.



You're assuming that a factory shaft that's just shortened will work.

You keep mentioning being cheap, but how cheap is it going to be to swap to an opposite side front axle going to be?

Are you running an offset rear axle?
Yes at 86 wb the front end has been up more than i care, but not over. Will be interesting to see what 6 inches or so longer wheelbase will change. Each there own on WB. If i go much longer, the next thing i will be looking at 37s and on and on. 35's and 86 work for the trails i do. underside will be platted and may boat side it a bit too to help with the increased wb and staying with 35s.

I shortened a dozen shafts over the years and no issues. Just need to start with a shaft that slip joint not worn out. Current rear shaft in Commando is from the rear of the donor Astro Van that now has 190 k on it and no issues in 10 years and 75 mph interstate use and high rpms in low range snow wheeling.

Cheap - beer for my buddy to machine a sleeve, one cut with band saw, grind disc, weld wire and gas. Did it on the Commando. Pull C's, cut long tube to short tube length, sleeve the cut piece from long tube to short tube with a few plug welds and one pass butt joint, heat C's on grill with some brats while having a beer and slide onto tubes. Hell i do not even have to pull the diff. I tack weld the housing onto bench with spring perches and pinion angle set and use digital level to get camber correct when slide on Cs. How do like that for some backward hillbilly redneck beergineering - EH! Maybe i should rename this to just that. I am keeping eye out for a drivers drop older 44 so i can re use my air locker as an option. But really swapping the tubes is close to less work than setting up a diff/gears in a different housing.

Yes currently have a offset rear. because of the D18 t case. I narrowed a Wagoneer Quadratrac D44 that is a bit offset to begin. Narrowed by me using a little less backward method of a full length true bar thru bearing saddles with pucks and pucks for the flange tube ends that i changed to flanges from a 72 CJ5 so i could use the Warn Full Float rear axle kit i got brand new many years ago cheap, and install 30 spline lock outs for flat towing. I towed this jeep a lot. tire wear and camber are good on this axle. I was actually a bit amazed how straight it came out. I narrowed it so one side could use the shaft from the Warn kit ($ savings) and the other side i had a shaft made by DUtchman. Been using this axle with the spool in it for 15 years with no issues other than the lockouts are pretty rock rashed. Cost me $1500 including gears spool discs brakes full float kit and 1 shaft. Anyone need a 58" iirc offset D44 housing? Or the whole darn thing complete? I have a Scout centered D44 that is a little narrower i got for free that i going to use and ditch the full float lock outs since the np241 can flat tow. Gets rid of the posssible failure point of the lockouts too.
 
Most likely can have factory ECM control the fan signal. I believe the ECM in your 2000 4.3 is similar to the one on my 2001 8.1 which has that ability.

Personally I would not mess with a lot of the "tuning" on that unless you really need the performance. Stock tuning works and is reliable.

Delete all that garbage off the engine and clear the codes out including the EGR.
Agree - stock or close to is reliable. Yes having fan control turned on. I am planning to have Jims Perf mod the trans shifts and line pressure.
EGR - to delete or not? I read a bunch over the years on it. Retaining keeps combustion temp lower because utilizing space with less than pure oxygen so less fuel/heat, then other thought combustion temp cooler because not recirculating hot air back into cylinder. Anyone with real life experience doing both that can share what they would do?
 
I have no EGR on both my 8.1 and my 5.7 TBI. No knocking heard on 87.

Both engines were originally equipped. The 8.1 has modified fueling and spark by Howell. The TBI is stock tune just minus the EGR. I don't see any effect and my state does not have emissions testing.

Sure it lowers combustion temps to reduce NOx but since both of my trucks are exempt I don't care.
 
I'm not questioning your ability to shorten a shaft. I'm. Saying that I'm not confident a stock double Carden will have enough angle for what you're trying to do. I think you're under estimatimg how much higher your output will be with the 241 being centered.
 
I'm not questioning your ability to shorten a shaft. I'm. Saying that I'm not confident a stock double Carden will have enough angle for what you're trying to do. I think you're under estimatimg how much higher your output will be with the 241 being centered.
Yeah that darn angle is probably my largest hurdle and could be a road block for the project. I am basing success on that my current shaft angle is darn near flat. I will share what angle it ends up at. Using the JB Conv high angle double cardon, is there some other joint type i might consider?
 
I have no EGR on both my 8.1 and my 5.7 TBI. No knocking heard on 87.

Both engines were originally equipped. The 8.1 has modified fueling and spark by Howell. The TBI is stock tune just minus the EGR. I don't see any effect and my state does not have emissions testing.

Sure it lowers combustion temps to reduce NOx but since both of my trucks are exempt I don't care.
thanks for the info.
I had not thought of pre ignition knock possibility from higher temp. Anyone know if the 10,000 feet altitude i live at and wheel in has any barring for to or not to delete egr?
I am leaning towards deleting so can run a drivers exhaust manifold without the raised egr boss that adds to steer shaft routing challenge. But i do not even know if one available. Anyone know of a drivers side exhaust manifold that fits a 2000 4.3 that does not have the raised boss for egr outlet?
I do not have emisisons testing and with it being in a 46 i crossing fingers if i move that it would not be issue. Its not going to have the cat or evap it originally had so.....
 
Wow that's up there. Maybe someone with tuning experience will chime in with real world experience.

The 88' S10 application doesn't appear to have to EGR fitting unlike the 2000 version.
 
Keeping EGR after talking more with Jim at Jim's Perf. Thanks for manifold tip. The high altitude is another reason i swapping to injected motor. It will be nice to run good at any altitude.
NP241 - i noticed when installing yoke that the range gear drags on low range gear in planetary when in neutral causing gear teeth grinding noise. Only reason i can come up with is the stamped steel range fork is bent or twisted. One fork pad was damaged when tore down for sye which is partly why i think the fork is the issue. Net research says use the newer aluminum fork. Anyone ever deal with this issue? Anyone confirm the aluminum fork 17833 will swap for the stamped steel fork? I have not seen this issue in other np241 cases i have used over the years.

Junk Yard trip was successful.
2 Shifters - got a t case shifter from Dodge pickup and auto trans shifter from a 89 Cherokee that is simple and metal so should be easy to mod to have a gate into park only and to work on the 4 speed 4l60e auto.
2 Fans (got a spare) from 98 Volvo 850 with shrouds and relay set up. Saw many other similar fans that were 3/4 inch narrower but were part of large shroud and would not be easy to cut down to fit my 18" wide radiator core, so stuck with what i hope is as the net says it is. I needed fan to mock up radiator placement and d train fitment in order to finalize stretch length in a few weeks.
D shaft double cardon front shaft and a yoke from the Cherokee 23x case which i thought I had used on another 241 case, but it turned out to be too small - ughh! $120 for all items.
Anyone have a cv double cardon yoke for the front of a 241?
 
Mocked up the 4.3 set up and by golly i think i can use a passenger drop t case and clear the 4L60e trans pan with the front shaft. Saves me having to swap front axle to drivers drop. But dang it, i converted my drivers drop 241 to a sye trying to get a jump on this project and it backfired. Have a call into JB conversions to see if i can use same shaft kit and just get the rear cover for a passenger drop.

44 inch front shaft length which is longer than anything i ever run. Shoud i be concerend?

9 inch rear shaft with no stretch. Previous shaft was 18 so i think i stretch frame 9 inches to get me an 18 inch shaft and give it a go. I am tilting the drive train a bit to help with rear shaft angle.
IMG_0084.JPG
 
PIC of it mocked up at 86 inch wheel base prior to any frame stretch and with np241 without the JB Conversion super short sye which saves about 8 inches, grille moved forward a couple inches allowing radiator to be moved forward after cutting out factory 2a cross member and having clearance for mechanical fan in case the electric does not cool it, and allowing for 1.5 inch space for auto trans cooler. What am i missing?
IMG_0079.JPG
 
Last edited:
shift fork - installed the cast aluminum one in the t case and it does not drag in neutral. Lesson learned. $30 bucks, thanks E Bay.
 
The drivetrain usually likes a 5-8* tilt. Smart on doing the stretch. I'd say you have no issue with the length of your front driveshaft.
 
Cut it in half and cleaned the rear frame up readying it for the stretch and widening. I cut it an inch back from the front leaf spring hanger which are already non stock location for the yj springs i put in years ago. Planning 7 inch additional width which will line the frame up with the current rear leaf springs and be at 36 1/4 outside frame width. I am widening it to give room inside frame for t case and exhaust.
Stretch??? Best estimate without acutally remounting radiator forward is adding 10 inch to frame, and wheel base, would give me the same length 19 inch rear d shaft i been running for years with no issues. I would like to stretch a bit less. Anyone have any input on what is the shortest rear shaft i should go for consdiering this thing will be wheeled pretty hard ? i did not measure but guessing the height diff of rear axle pinion with it tilted up aiming at rear of t case to the t case output will be 4 inches. The rear axle travel is about 8 inches, 3-4 up and 3- 4 down.
IMG_0096.JPG
IMG_0102.JPG
 
Drivers drop - yep have to do drivers drop t case as originally planned. i learned that no one makes a short SYE for a passenger drop 241. So back to needing a different d44 drivers drop axle if anyone knows of one. Or cut and swap tubes on my passenger drop currently in it.

$$$ what is a passenger drop 241 case in useable condition worth?

Offset D44 rear 60 inch WMS with warn full float kit - anyone interested in it?
 
Back working on this with new goal of May. Summers are busy, winters i have more time. Status - removed cross member in front of engine and relying on my overkill winch plate in place of a fornt cross member. It is 3/8 thick that was bent at 90 and protrudes 8 inches rearward along side frame rail and fully welded in place to the ole 46 massive frame. It has been pulled on hard for years many times and frame still seems square. This allows the radiator to move forward more. Planning to bore some holes in winch plate to lighten and let debris fall through. Moved grill forward to back of winch, cut the rear of headlight buckets off some to allow 3 inch thick Howe custom aluminum radiator to be pushed forward to a couple inches of grille with plans for steering and trans coolers in that space. Have front frame at ride height ( i think - dang it i forgot to measure frame height exactly prior to tear down. For me this is important measurement to have for doing as i am staying with same suspension and tire and have other measurements from gournd up - too many helpers and beers at tear down i guess) and engine positioned with oil pan to ground height of 18 inches i had with previous Dauntless v6 engine. Hood clearance ???? will have to bump a section for air horn inlet. Purchased gears and arb locker for rear from Revolution Gear. Never used there gears but heard good things and $175 a set verse $460 a set Yukon = staying on track to retire. They told me the pinon actually had one more tooth then there 5.38. its small. Good folks to deal with and had the locker on sale too with free shipping. Went with 5.89 ratio. Thought 5.38 was lowest available. will help going from a near 100 crawl ratio to a now 49. If i remember correctly 3100 rpm at 55 in drive with the 35s i using.
Questions Suggestions for ya all
Oil pan - is there a shorter, shallower sump, option that will still keep pump from starving at off angles? This 99 GMC 4.3 is tall and the pump sump is deep. Guessing 4 inches deeper than the 225 sump.
Engine angle - i have it around 5 degrees lower in rear. may go more once have rear axle mocked up. Is there any range to stay within?

Donor pic for kicks giggles. that dude must have been dizzy when got out of the car with just a broken wrist.

IMG_1327.JPG
IMG_1329.JPG
 
Top Back Refresh