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Who’s done concrete overlay flooring?

Kyle

Formerly known as Kyle_T
Joined
May 24, 2020
Member Number
1339
Messages
587
Loc
Fort Worth TEXAS USA
Good bad ugly?

looking at ardex SD-T to overlay crap concrete in our kitchen. Will be sealed no stamping or designs. Cost looks to be less than half of what tile and leveling compound will cost and we want the concert look. We are more than basic DIY skilled and my dad is a legitimate expert on concrete but hasn’t ever done interior overlays. No drawbacks way to polish because the slab isn’t at all uniform.
 
follow the directions on the bag, mix it up and pour it down and spread it around to desired depth

do you want a self-leveler or do you want a little bit more of that trowel finish design?

biggest thing is to make sure that the base is clean, clean, clean....no oil, no resin, open pore clean.

otherwise, easy and works well.
 
follow the directions on the bag, mix it up and pour it down and spread it around to desired depth

do you want a self-leveler or do you want a little bit more of that trowel finish design?

biggest thing is to make sure that the base is clean, clean, clean....no oil, no resin, open pore clean.

otherwise, easy and works well.

Yes self leveler. What’s the longevity? We stripped up a crappy overlay that was all kinds of cracked. It was probably 20 years old?
 
Yes self leveler. What’s the longevity? We stripped up a crappy overlay that was all kinds of cracked. It was probably 20 years old?

20 years old and cracked up?

i'd say that is a prep issue, a placement issue, or a structural issue. concrete overlay is more sensitive to subfloor movement than tile for example, where the grout can fail and nobody will notice for 20 years

get it touch with ardex, they should also have a binder (glue) that they make that you can use to prep the subfloor, i.e. soak into the clean pores, as well as mix in with your overlay. then the glue in the overlay bonds more easily with the glue into the subfloor and the whole thing is "more likely" to tolerate flexyness as the world turns
 
how thick and how consistently thick was the old stuff that cracked up?

3/4” 4x4ft squares divided by aluminum “L” to look like terrazzo. The issue was (I assume) no prep under it, the decoupling was done with sand. No sealer between the grids so precious owners dogs piss leaked down under it and the smell was horrific.
 
3/4” 4x4ft squares divided by aluminum “L” to look like terrazzo. The issue was (I assume) no prep under it, the decoupling was done with sand. No sealer between the grids so precious owners dogs piss leaked down under it and the smell was horrific.

that's disgusting :laughing: don't do that. make it all 1 solid piece.
 
3/4” 4x4ft squares divided by aluminum “L” to look like terrazzo. The issue was (I assume) no prep under it, the decoupling was done with sand. No sealer between the grids so precious owners dogs piss leaked down under it and the smell was horrific.

3/4" uncoupled with sand?

I don't know shit about overlays, but that just doesn't sound right to me. I would have assumed you almost need it to bond with the substrate to get any kind of strength out of it.
 
that's disgusting :laughing: don't do that. make it all 1 solid piece.

The yellow on the slab is urine.

photo32717.jpg
 
3/4" uncoupled with sand?

I don't know shit about overlays, but that just doesn't sound right to me. I would have assumed you almost need it to bond with the substrate to get any kind of strength out of it.

:homer: Yep. Had no idea that we were getting into this... previous owners hid it very well.
 
:homer: Yep. Had no idea that we were getting into this... previous owners hid it very well.

that's how i felt when i opened up a downstairs ceiling sheetrock to discover the upstairs bathroom had ZERO barrier behind the tile and the tub has ZERO splash barrier :lmao: Mold town, party of ME!!!!
 
If it was me I would try a small part with a adhesion promoter with whatever product you are doing. Looks like you could do a patch under the cabinets, then see how well it 'sticks'. If you can pop it up easily with a screw driver or scraper you will probably have to grind the concrete to get a good bond. There are a lot of variables depending on treatments used on it in the past.
 
If it was me I would try a small part with a adhesion promoter with whatever product you are doing. Looks like you could do a patch under the cabinets, then see how well it 'sticks'. If you can pop it up easily with a screw driver or scraper you will probably have to grind the concrete to get a good bond. There are a lot of variables depending on treatments used on it in the past.

That’s my concern really .
 
They make walk behind ones that you can wet the floor and or hook up a shop vac to cut down the mess. Pretty much any kind of finishing work is all in the prep from trim, to paint, to flooring and tile.
 
They make walk behind ones that you can wet the floor and or hook up a shop vac to cut down the mess. Pretty much any kind of finishing work is all in the prep from trim, to paint, to flooring and tile.

I’ve got access to a dual 4 head grinder. But it’s a huge mess to do. Wet less so but still.
 
Grind 1/16" off the existing with a diamond cup, use primer, then seal after its set. Theres a couple different sealer results you can get. One turns Ardex black, one makes it solid grey, another gives you concrete splotches. I've installed dozens of these in commercial spaces.
 
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