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When do you replace your tires? Tread depth? Age?

I'm lucky if I get half the rated mileage out of a tire. They wear out before the warranty,I buy them online,so I don't get any Pro rated return.
 
That scrub radius be eatin yo wallet round dem curbs mang
Fun facts:

The majority of "microplastics" in the environment come from degrading paints/ coatings and tire scrub.
Tires scrubbing off rubber in normal use is also one of the major contributors of zinc in storm water.

[/useless Cliff Claven knowledge] :flipoff2:
 
Fun facts:

The majority of "microplastics" in the environment come from degrading paints/ coatings and tire scrub.
Tires scrubbing off rubber in normal use is also one of the major contributors of zinc in storm water.

[/useless Cliff Claven knowledge] :flipoff2:
Thanks for the info Arse. :flipoff2:
 
Which brings the question, what the fuck would be so hard about putting a proper date on the damn things?

Made Oct 2024, or something like that so hard?

As far as tires coming apart in the inside, have seen that when they were run low on air.
That's DOT's fault.

The government says everyone will use the weekly XXXX date code, so that's what everyone uses. We could spend a ton of money changing molds and getting the swappable stamps to make a nice pretty "made August '24" and then they'd all go to the landfill because Uncle Sam says they're not legal.
 
I have a set of new 35" OG BFG AT's (pre-KO) on my "garage rig" (i.e.: The project I bought 20+ years ago and just sit in my shop where I occasionally stare at it and say I'm going to work on it one day). Best guess is that they're from the early to mid-90's when the truck was last "restored". Still have teets on them but are severely dry rotted. The spare is a KO but still predates date codes. 🤷‍♂️
 
My trailer tires sitting in the back of my truck today.

8 years old.

Tread depth is fine.

They still hold air.

Basically all 4 look like this.

Still debating cheap tires vs expensive or cheap with new wheels and maybe throw some old rubber on these to use as spairs.
1728653387345.png


I've had surprisingly good luck with the chinese trailer tires from Amazon. Founds some 205 E rated tires for under $300 for a set of 4. Had them for over 2 years and they're wearing well and haven't had any problems. Retired the last set that were D range only because I bent an axle tube and wore two of them out.
 
Been an insurance guy too long, I am watching the tires pretty close by the time they are 6/32 and they are replaced by 5/32.
 
I have a set of new 35" OG BFG AT's (pre-KO) on my "garage rig" (i.e.: The project I bought 20+ years ago and just sit in my shop where I occasionally stare at it and say I'm going to work on it one day). Best guess is that they're from the early to mid-90's when the truck was last "restored". Still have teets on them but are severely dry rotted. The spare is a KO but still predates date codes. 🤷‍♂️
Wow, that tire is old. Standardized date codes on tires began in 1971.:laughing:
 
Depends on the vehicle use

I keep fresh skins on my wife's car at all times.

On my beater/daily crown vics during the summer months I run whatever I have laying around until they are as smooth as Arti's brain

I've had the same set of studded snows for about ten years for winter use
... I swap them on the ugly P71 the day before the first storm and leave the nicer P74 on summer rubber year round
The Nokia Happelitta's still look minty with sharp studs because I don;t run them on drive pavement very often
 
America's/Discount will prorate tire warranty to 4/32" tread depth. My Toyo A/T3 on my 2500HD made it to 49k miles out of 50k warranty to 4/32 and they were going to give me $9 credit on the next set of tires. Lol.

I drove it to the wear bars and then swapped them out.

But to answer the OP's question I replace them once they start having poor performance for what I need them for or I hit the wear bars. That is usually wet traction or braking performance. When I notice a significant degradation in those, I replace them regardless of tread depth
 
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I'm lucky if I get half the rated mileage out of a tire. They wear out before the warranty,I buy them online,so I don't get any Pro rated return.

I just got 52k out of 50k warranty on a set of Toyo AT/3 on my 2500HD DMax crew cab and 20k of those were towing. I was pleasantly surprised. But they were rotated and balanced every 7500ish miles.
 
2/64ths, fraction action
 
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Water falls from the sky here regularly, so I don't fuck around with tires. Once I start getting hydroplaning or the winter performance goes down it's time to change.
 
Simple test for legal tread depth:

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If any part of upside-down Abe's head is covered, you're above minimum & the cop can fuck right off :laughing:

1728666600568.png


Posting that just in case anyone here didn't know it already
dunno-gif.627990
 
Michelin at2 take-offs are still plentiful so I'm running them until they die. Think they'll rot before wear on the 16.

All the older stuff gets Cooper's and they get replacement when they're rotten. Think I got 100k out of the BFG rugged trails that came on the Yukon and they were still 80% tread when I scrapped them because the sidewalls turned solid white from delaminating... :laughing:
 
Too many different vehicles with too many different jobs. I wear out the tires on my tow rig and depending on time of year I run them until the tread depth has me uncomfortable for the next 2000 mile road trip. My centurion, the tires crack out and separate before I wear them out, it’s last tires were Goodyear Duratrac’s that lasted 8 or 9 years, but were still 1/2 to 3/4 tread and coming apart.

I ran the Krawlers on my trail rig until they stopped holding air. That was 5000 miles and 10 years.

I can pretty easily get 50K miles out of a set of Cooper AT-3’s on my PSD’s.

I get new mud tires on my work truck every 20K miles because they are worn out and shale rocks cut through the chords.
 
<0.05G's maximum of lateral acceleration have entered the chat> :laughing:

. . . or "bullshit" :flipoff2:

Traction sucked from day one. It's an SUV not a Corvette so it got driven as such. I never even rotated them and they were fine.
Replaced them with a set of Cooper AT3 when they first came out. After 20k they still looked new without rotations.

Driving calmly is remarkably better for tire life. :flipoff2:
 
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They give you money for tires?
Sure do, I figured it was standard practice.
Right now I got a set of Continentals I bought a while back, they were sold as 80,000 mile tires.
I only got about 45k out of them, so they're offering me $40 per tire credit toward new ones.
The tires cost $150 new, so it looks like I'm getting about 1/4 price back based on about 1/2 mileage wear.
Rear tires are at 4/32 and they're offering me about $60 per tire credit based on that tread.

Makes me wonder about the formula they use so I can wonder whether or not driving my 4/32 down to 2/32 is worth losing the extra credit I would get right now.

If not for these credits and formulas it would be simple for me. Drive until bald and replace.
 
Sure do, I figured it was standard practice.
Right now I got a set of Continentals I bought a while back, they were sold as 80,000 mile tires.
I only got about 45k out of them, so they're offering me $40 per tire credit toward new ones.
The tires cost $150 new, so it looks like I'm getting about 1/4 price back based on about 1/2 mileage wear.
Rear tires are at 4/32 and they're offering me about $60 per tire credit based on that tread.

Makes me wonder about the formula they use so I can wonder whether or not driving my 4/32 down to 2/32 is worth losing the extra credit I would get right now.

If not for these credits and formulas it would be simple for me. Drive until bald and replace.


Replace them as a set.

Quit being dumb :flipoff2::lmao:
 
Yeah, and a bottle of primo booze lasts longer if you never open it :flipoff2:

So I'm supposed to drive the family hauler with car seats and kids just trying to enjoy their DVD like a racecar? :confused:

That's what the racecars are for :flipoff2::grinpimp:
 
My seat-of-pants experience says tires are really soft these days, but do harden with age. So I figure I get more years total swapping between winters/summers vs running 2 sets start to finish sequentially. (These are E rated tires on a Jeep.)

And after they're done on the Jeep, I finish off those hand-me-downs on the dodges.
 
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