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When do you replace your tires? Tread depth? Age?

Yota Up

Dull man
Joined
May 20, 2020
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648
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1,616
When they fall off?

To make it easy for math, the following numbers are not accurate:
Say you pay $100 for a tire. Tire says it goes 100,000 miles.
You drive tire for 50,000 miles and it "needs to be replaced" due to tread depth.
You get some money back on that tire because you only got half the miles out of it.
What is that formula for how much you should get as credit based on tread depth and miles?

Do you replace yours when they suggest it? I assume they suggest 4/32 tread or 5 years.
 
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when the belts let go and they shake the fillings out of your teeth, or when they will no longer hold air, whichever comes first.

(that's for summer tires, winter tires get used in winter until they're baloney skins, then they get used summer until the above).
 
d9GcSgr4dtK22ZRyD6K5Jj7MKr_76DbAVwRhRd_GtEj6hCGw&s.jpg

They give you money for tires?
I give the nice lady at the yard sale money, and get another set.

Tread depth? Yes, it has some.
Mfg date under 10 years? Score!
Cracking? As little as possible.
 
When the tread is useless or they are cracking. Age by itself doesn't mean much and 5 years is just tyre selling BS.

I've got 6 year old Bridgestones on a ute that are due for both. 70,000km (~45k miles) the tread is done and they're cracking. The wear is fine but the cracks look like something I've only seen on Coopers. Duratracs on my rangie are 10 years old and keeping well. Only 5-10,000km on them.

I had a set of japanese winter tyres that didn't even have DOT year codes on them. They eventually stopped holding air and I didn't trust them even though tread and grip was great. Estimated age was about 16 years.
 
subybaja said:
d9GcSgr4dtK22ZRyD6K5Jj7MKr_76DbAVwRhRd_GtEj6hCGw&s.jpg

They give you money for tires?
I give the nice lady at the yard sale money, and get another set.

Tread depth? Yes, it has some.
Mfg date under 10 years? Score!
Cracking? As little as possible.
Click to expand...

Was on some Facebook thing where people were talking about getting rid of tires because they hit 6 years old, and that was "normal". Didn't matter if they were 95% tread, no dry rot, etc.

I mean maybe the steers on the church van so you don't kill 15 people when ol Sister Lucille is hauling the elders out to Bingo but in regular stuff, pump the brakes there Daddy Warbucks. Us poors ain't wasting money like that!

Here I am, bummed my truck will need the 90% tread tires replaced pretty soon, they are cracking apart and shake. They're only 16 years old.

Off road stuff, run it till it's bald or no longer holds the wind in it.
Ran my skid steer tires till the tubes started coming out.
 
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My work truck, every 30-40k miles. Closer to 40k now that I don't live on 5 miles of gravel and it's 98% highway driving. I don't like driving on bald-ish tires in the winter or getting stuck on jobsites so they get changed before they are "wore out". Personal vehicles, I run them till they get down to the wear bars. My tow rig gets about 6k miles put on it a year and those tires I bought new two years ago, they will last a long time.
 
I don't fuck around with tires. There's nothing worse than a blowout a thousand miles from home. It's not worth the trouble or worry just to get a little bit more. It's also not fun being stuck on a tiny ledge because your swampers are 15 years old and harder than porn dick.
My rv tires were 14 years old,stored inside,hand no cracks and soft as new. I threw them out because old tires fail from the inside,doesn't matter what they look like.
Part of growing up and being an adult.
 
I'm still running 33 inch Yokohama Mud Diggers, made in Japan, that were worn bald around 1996 and the tire guy that owned them retreaded them with grader tread.

They're on my bush trailer and the sidewall rubber still looks great, although that trailer only sees farm duty lately.

They would need about 7 lbs per tire to balance though. :homer:

What's the date code look like? I'll try to get some pics.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I'm still running 33 inch Yokohama Mud Diggers, made in Japan, that were worn bald around 1996 and the tire guy that owned them retreaded them with grader tread.

They're on my bush trailer and the sidewall rubber still looks great, although that trailer only sees farm duty lately.

They would need about 7 lbs per tire to balance though. :homer:

What's the date code look like? I'll try to get some pics.
Click to expand...
You won’t have a standardized date code on those. Manufacturer really only started doing it in the 2000s

In my trailer tire thread that was moved from chit chat to a buy sell forum by a dummy mod… those tires are from 97 or 98… can’t find codes on em
 
[memphis] said:
You won’t have a standardized date code on those. Manufacturer really only started doing it in the 2000s

In my trailer tire thread that was moved from chit chat to a buy sell forum by a dummy mod… those tires are from 97 or 98… can’t find codes on em
Click to expand...
It’s still standardized to the manufacturer. It’s Normaly 2 letters and a number.
 
I don't own any tires that have a mileage guarantee. Going into winter we buy tires if they need it, driving on snow and ice for 5 months a year it ain't worth fucking around with bald tires. My pickup is due for tires this year. 37 Nitto Trail grapplers are gonna be cheap I'm sure. Always siped.
 
When they need it. Need depends on the vehicle. Beater I'll run em til they start to fall apart or won't pass inspection. Non-beater I'll replace when they start wearing like shit or tread starts getting questionable.

Debating replacing the cheap ass 35s on my Jeep though, were already on it when I bought it and they're basically new but two of them don't balance for shit. Rides fine when those 2 are on the rear but when they're on the front they wander all over the damn place and wobble between 45-50.
 
pinchegringo said:
I don't fuck around with tires. There's nothing worse than a blowout a thousand miles from home. It's not worth the trouble or worry just to get a little bit more. It's also not fun being stuck on a tiny ledge because your swampers are 15 years old and harder than porn dick.
My rv tires were 14 years old,stored inside,hand no cracks and soft as new. I threw them out because old tires fail from the inside,doesn't matter what they look like.
Part of growing up and being an adult.
Click to expand...
Replaced a set of horrible tires that were on a trailer I'd been running for years without issue. First trip with brand new tires....a damn sidewall blows out. :laughing:
 
Pre-2000 date codes are just 3 digits (week and last digit of year). Example...237 would be the 23rd week of either 1997, 1987, etc. So unless you are sure which decade the tires were made, then it is just a guess.
Post 2000 date codes are 4 digits (week and last 2 of year). Example...2307 would be the 23rd week of 2007.
The date codes on tires are located after the "DOT" on the sidewall. There will usually be some letters and maybe numbers after the "DOT", then at the end of the string there will be either 3 or 4 digits, depending if they were made this century or last.

To answer the OPs question...I'll generally run tires until they are down to the wear bars, unless there is a physical issue with the tires.
Passenger vehicle tires will be good for a long time...10-15 years, in my experience.
Trailer tires are shit and you'll be lucky to get more than 5 years out of most of them (there is a reason tire manufacturers say to replace trailer tires every 5 years...and it isn't to sell you more tires...well, it is, but it isn't), no matter how much tread they have left or how they are stored (out of sunlight, etc.). I've had several ST trailer tires with basically new tread fail (develop bubbles on the sidewall, slip belts, etc.).
I run LT or even P tires (on the smaller trailers) and they last much longer than ST tires.
 
Seems lately, I've had mostly carcass failures forcing me to get new tires. Not blow outs, just shaking, bulging tread, etc. I had a set of General Grabber AT's on my F-150 that made it to 50k and was planning to change them, and one got a sidewall bulge so that closed the show on that one.

The BFG's on my Super Duty are friggin noisy, probably 40% tread left and they're nice and even, just noisy. Might replace them early because of that.
 
My trailer tires sitting in the back of my truck today.

8 years old.

Tread depth is fine.

They still hold air.

Basically all 4 look like this.

Still debating cheap tires vs expensive or cheap with new wheels and maybe throw some old rubber on these to use as spairs.
1728653387345.png
 
Vehicles and Offroad Tires.
I like having tread so I usually sell them far before they are completely worn.
If I can get 1/2 price when 1/2 worn than I'm always owning the best 50% of the tire.
I live where there is ice and snow so tread is nice to have.
When a tire has 20% tread its worth nothing so the worn to value ratio isnt exactly linear.
 
kmkommes said:
My trailer tires sitting in the back of my truck today.

8 years old.

Tread depth is fine.

They still hold air.

Basically all 4 look like this.

Still debating cheap tires vs expensive or cheap with new wheels and maybe throw some old rubber on these to use as spairs.
1728653387345.png
Click to expand...
Since it seems like they age out before wear out for you, I'd go with cheap. I had the same debate with my trailer lately. Original set wore out at the same time they aged out, but i haven't been using the trailer as much because kids... so, my next set is likely to do a lot more sitting and I'd hate to have expensive tires just sit and rot. I put Carlisle (now Carlstar) on it for about 120 each. 235/80r16 10 ply
 
Daily driver gets new (or take offs from FBMP) when they hit the wear bars if they are summer tires. Never had a set last more than 5 years so dating out isn’t a concern.
Winter tires become summer tires after 2-3 seasons depending on how well they were working on the last slick roads.
Wheeler gets swapped out when a good deal on bigger tires comes along and I can sell the old ones. Not opposed to extending the life buy using my siping tool right down to the cords if necessary. But once the rubber hardens up they start sucking hard in snow so that’s the ultimate decision maker.
Trailers get good used truck tires and changed out when cracks show because I don’t like replacing fenders.
RV steer tires are being replaced this year due to age. Will keep them as spares. Rears I’m rolling the dice on. Aged but no cracks and great tread.
 
Which brings the question, what the fuck would be so hard about putting a proper date on the damn things?

Made Oct 2024, or something like that so hard?

As far as tires coming apart in the inside, have seen that when they were run low on air.
 
I have a trailer running 9.0 × 16.5s that were on an 81 Suburban I bought around 2003. I have another trailer running 235 15s that were on a Jimmy I got free in the mid 90s. No big deal. I run tires until they die or are a shitty set. I have never had tires last even 30,000 miles. I look at some of the claims I read and think they are like the "cummings" that make fuel.:flipoff2:
 
Yota Up said:
When they fall off?

To make it easy for math, the following numbers are not accurate:
Say you pay $100 for a tire. Tire says it goes 100,000 miles.
You drive tire for 50,000 miles and it "needs to be replaced" due to tread depth.
You get some money back on that tire because you only got half the miles out of it.
What is that formula for how much you should get as credit based on tread depth and miles?

Do you replace yours when they suggest it? I assume they suggest 4/32 tread or 5 years.
Click to expand...
WTF did I just read
 
I have been buying new sets the last couple years. Used sets and take offs are getting to become a pain to obtain for my area. Take off tires have saved me 50% on sets over the last 20 years. I have yet to get to use a treadwear warranty.

22.5s fronts get swapped out just before the wear bars because DOT. They can be new or used, out back get's "what the fuck ever you got used that won't get me an out of service for $80 Poppy rears"

Daily drivers I run em down to 2/32" or they start to leak through the casing.

We have gotten 7 years and 65K from a set of Kendas on the 2wd silverado beater. They are 50K life tires. Thats with 6k rotations along with a tire pressure schedule to keep them wearing even. So far 2 have been lost to dry rot. And the remaining 2 need replacement.
 
Filthy McChevy said:
I have a trailer running 9.0 × 16.5s that were on an 81 Suburban I bought around 2003. I have another trailer running 235 15s that were on a Jimmy I got free in the mid 90s. No big deal. I run tires until they die or are a shitty set. I have never had tires last even 30,000 miles. I look at some of the claims I read and think they are like the "cummings" that make fuel.:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Nah its Doable. Takes either a Camry, Subaru or constant attention.

Get an alignment every year. Find a real shop. Weigh yourself and place the weight in sandbags in the drivers seat.
Stay atop and above tire pressure. I use 2 weeks of high pressure then 2 weeks of low pressure on my current daily with its poser Kenda Klevers. Keeps the tread wear even across the tire.
Don't drive aggressively and slow down in the curves, especially the on and off ramps. That scrub radius be eatin yo wallet round dem curbs mang
 
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