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What transfer case to run?

Motiracer38

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I have a truck I built and enjoyed for a few years in 2wd but just recently cut the whole front end off to build a 4wd IFS suspension. The front diff is an 8.8 IRS which ends up driver drop. I'm running a Toyota A341E auto trans and already picked up the Aisin AW4 tail shaft and output shaft to match the Jeep XZ AW4.

My question is which transfer case should I run?

In research it shows the NP231 was stock XJ but the NP242 is better? I'm looking for a manual shift case with 2hi, 4hi and 4lo, probably never would use 2lo. The frontend will not have hubs or diff disconnect so the input will be spinning at all times. Flat towing would be a nice feature to have but not mandatory. Running 250hp and 37s so no need to be crazy strong. It is a desert truck but I don't see the need to run 4wd through whoop sections, I think?

Pic for attention, not in Toyota section cause I may need Jeep advice, probably should be in newb.
IMG_20230526_184444860.jpg
 
Toyota cases get confusing for driver drop. Seems the only "good" one is the FJ which get rare and are hard to clock up. Figured Jeep stuff would be cheaper.

NP 205 looks to be an old beefy steel gear driven case that checks the box on strength but is what about size? I'm not too concerned about weight however I don't have a subframe belly to stuff this into. Also is the 6 bolt pattern the same? Are there clocking adapters available?

NP241 is aluminum chain drive from a TJ and Chevy half ton? Which one bolts to an AW4? I have a 23 spline output shaft.

Thanks for the leads, I'll get to researching
 
23 spline.... a lot of different 241 possibilties. Ram and Liberty also use them.

The gain of the 242 is it adds a 4wd full-time mode (Hi only).
 
Awd on the 242 could be usefull for desert stuff?

The other option would be use the 205 and have the ability to run in low at high speeds since it's only 2:1 and doesn't care about running 80mph+ in low. 2:1 would wake that 4.0 up big time in the desert.

Mating it directly to an aw4 could be a bit of a pain, but do able.
 
For my money the 231 is the way to go. Plenty of cheap upgrade stuff out there, strong enough for your application IMO without being overly large/heavy.

But yes, the correct answer is 205 or geardrive toy with passenger drop, but I'm a purist:flipoff2:
 
A dana 18 T case would be an option but no where near as strong as any cast iron np205.
 
I figured 231 was the easy way out and probably strong enough for what I need but figured I would poll the audience

I don't think I'd run high speed in 4wd but it sounds like the 242 would open that possibility. The front will have an 8.8 and 930 CV joints so it's not unblowupable by any means. The center diff would take some shock out of the system. Is it still straight through to the rear and just a clutched engagement for the front?

What's the difference between a 231 and 241?
 
Not a fan of the Tcases that use clutches to engage the front axle. pretty much every case with an auto 4wd selection.
 
I have a GM 241C if you want to grab it and check it out. Manual shift out of a 93 ish K1500 Chevy behind a 4l60e trans. I got it for maybe something in the future but I have no idea when that will actually be used, if ever
 
I figured 231 was the easy way out and probably strong enough for what I need but figured I would poll the audience

I don't think I'd run high speed in 4wd but it sounds like the 242 would open that possibility. The front will have an 8.8 and 930 CV joints so it's not unblowupable by any means. The center diff would take some shock out of the system. Is it still straight through to the rear and just a clutched engagement for the front?

What's the difference between a 231 and 241?

231 is 3 planets and 241 is 6 I believe

I'm also curious why you went with the aw4 tail housing over just the stock tacoma 4wd tail housing and tcase.
 
94-01 dodge 1500 NP231 or NP241 from a 2500 gasser. Supposedly have the HD chain.

Can probably find a Jeep 231 with a SYE for 3-400 ready to go.
 
Any dodge auto trans 241 is bolt on d-side.
dodge auto/gas 271

Sealing may be an issue to address.

The correct dodge output uses the 231 input to seal the back of the trans.
 
The other advantage to the 231/241 cases is the more efficient chain drive design over an older gear drive case like a 205. Usually as a crawler we shy away from chain t-cases, but I could see in a desert truck it would be advantageous.
 
Not a fan of the Tcases that use clutches to engage the front axle. pretty much every case with an auto 4wd selection.
I have two WJ cases that have burnt up clutches and no 4hi, so me neither. I would hope a fresh set would hold up for awhile and the 4lo would lock it out for the errant boulder field I happen to run into.

I'm also curious why you went with the aw4 tail housing over just the stock tacoma 4wd tail housing and tcase.
Mainly the cost and hassle of finding a manual shift box, output shaft and tail housing. I've never heard of a problem with strength in my power and tire range but just opening up to options

94-01 dodge 1500 NP231 or NP241 from a 2500 gasser. Supposedly have the HD chain.

Can probably find a Jeep 231 with a SYE for 3-400 ready to go.
Dodge should be easy to find around here, found a list of models with input shafts so will do some digging. Funny thing is there are two 231 with SYE for $5-600 fairly local so they are out there for sure.


Thanks all for your input, if anyone in SoCal has parts looking to unload, hit me up. Still not sure which way to go but much better informed
 
The other advantage to the 231/241 cases is the more efficient chain drive design over an older gear drive case like a 205. Usually as a crawler we shy away from chain t-cases, but I could see in a desert truck it would be advantageous.
I was thinking the same thing. Quieter and less drag since I don't have too much power to spare
 
Not sure if you care, but all the 231/241 cases will lead to a much longer front driveshaft than if you run a D300/205/Atlas.
 
Thanks for pointing that out, I hadn't noticed that. My front driveshaft is going to be tricky to route and that could have an impact
 
Any desire for a doubler?

I would run a VF2 NWF eco crawler with a manual shift VF4 behind it. They’re in the auto trans FJ cruisers and 5th gen 4Runners.
 
Any desire for a doubler?

I would run a VF2 NWF eco crawler with a manual shift VF4 behind it. They’re in the auto trans FJ cruisers and 5th gen 4Runners.

Absolutely not going to run a doubler. It's a go fast prerunner truck and would never need the lower range from a doubler.
 
Jeep JK 241J 2007-2011. 23 Spline input, 6 bolt pattern, 32 spline outputs, driver's drop. Fits your AW4.
 
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