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What to look for in a gooseneck

Will12785

Will12785

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
174
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760
Loc
Syracuse, NY
So I'm considering going the goosneck route.

I originally was looking at Appalachian Trailers because I know some people who have their bumper pull trailers and they seem decent. They also have a great price point and are somewhat local.

They didnt seem to offer exactly what I'm looking for so I started looking up brands of trailers I see driving around like PJ, Big Tex, etc. and it looks like there are tons of options.

Right now my primary needs are to be deckover and single wheel hub. Im not really interested on tilts.

What else should I be looking for in a gooseneck? Things you would change or things you would get if you were looking all over again.

The closer to $15k the better but $20k is probably the max unless something is really worth it.
 
Dont know how your going to get 10k axles in a single wheel. Unless you convert duals yourself.

My requirements would be I-beam tip to tail and a torque tube. Everything else is preference on what you're hauling.
 
TRINDU said:
Dont know how your going to get 10k axles in a single wheel. Unless you convert duals yourself.

My requirements would be I-beam tip to tail and a torque tube. Everything else is preference on what you're hauling.
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Budget, not weight.
 
Texas Pride is putting super singles on 10k axles. I have those on my dump. Probably too far to NY but worth looking at. I think Lamar is starting to do that as well. No doubt other trailer builders will follow.

To answer your question, get a little more tailer than you think you need. There are many different ramp types including aluminum slide in ramps so look them over to see what you like.

I add "D" rings to all my trailers for tie downs. Stake pockets and rub rails along with maybe some steps to get up on the deck.
 
TRINDU said:
Dont know how your going to get 10k axles in a single wheel. Unless you convert duals yourself.

My requirements would be I-beam tip to tail and a torque tube. Everything else is preference on what you're hauling.
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Lots of companys offer them. I know texas pride and loadtrail do off the top of my head.
 
I just sold a 28' deck over PJ gooseneck (5900 lbs). I really liked it for the most part. Always a few things you'd do differently on anything but as far as being a good trailer, that was a good trailer despite it's previous hard life. It was still very sturdy with the exception of some of the deck boards. Frame and such was super solid.

I have a gas tow rig so I'm sure none of this applies for deezel folk. I'm looking to get into a low boy type goose in about the 36' flavor. Three reasons for that for me.

1) I'd like to get the Jeep windshields out of the slip stream a little bit. Hoping to score about .5 mpg or so doing that? (Not likely but the the second reason is more important)

2) I can't talk myself into driving a muscle car with low hanging headers up an 8' ramp.

3) I'm hoping to cut a bit of weight from my previous PJ. Since I'm wanting a longer trailer, I'd like to be about 6k or less on the trailer.


I'd like an open center trailer for many reasons. Tie downs, less weight, easy winch channel and I have a built in excuse when someone needs me to haul a load that's not a car.
 
What are you hauling?

I REALLY dislike deckover

I'd really like about a 32-36' 14k car hauler 102" wide with drive over fenders, and deal with the rare hassle of not having a deckover by blocking up whatever load, or removing fenders

Way handy, room to move loads for pin weight, stuff 2 trucks on, not look CDL, low COG and keeping the load out of the wind.

That's what I want.

Also, if a trailer weighting 3200lbs moves the cargo, I would be beyond pissed dragging a 5500lb trailer everywhere

*caveat, if the purpose is using on rough roads daily, an over built trailer may be the right tool for the job, versus "properly spec'd"
 
A good structure as others have mentioned. Width for large rigs. Triple ramps or two wide ramps works well for varying widths or tricycle front tractors in my case. There are a lot of brands that do a shit job of painting the underside of the frame, or don't paint it at all. That bothers me in a $10k+ trailer.
Aluminum is sweet if you can afford it. EBY brand.

Other smaller personal preferences are:
-a solid beavertail, as opposed to the open angle iron deck styles.
-Same for the front toolbox floor (solid is better than open grates in my part of the country)
-twin jacks, rather than a single one.
 
Projectjunkie said:
What are you hauling?

I REALLY dislike deckover

I'd really like about a 32-36' 14k car hauler 102" wide with drive over fenders, and deal with the rare hassle of not having a deckover by blocking up whatever load, or removing fenders

Way handy, room to move loads for pin weight, stuff 2 trucks on, not look CDL, low COG and keeping the load out of the wind.

That's what I want.

Also, if a trailer weighting 3200lbs moves the cargo, I would be beyond pissed dragging a 5500lb trailer everywhere

*caveat, if the purpose is using on rough roads daily, an over built trailer may be the right tool for the job, versus "properly spec'd"
Click to expand...

3200lbs is more than a 20' 10k buggy hauler (full width, drive over fenders) wieghs. You're dreaming thinking you can get a 32-36' trailer that light. Unless I missed something?
 
Projectjunkie said:
What are you hauling?

I REALLY dislike deckover

I'd really like about a 32-36' 14k car hauler 102" wide with drive over fenders, and deal with the rare hassle of not having a deckover by blocking up whatever load, or removing fenders

Way handy, room to move loads for pin weight, stuff 2 trucks on, not look CDL, low COG and keeping the load out of the wind.

That's what I want.

Also, if a trailer weighting 3200lbs moves the cargo, I would be beyond pissed dragging a 5500lb trailer everywhere

*caveat, if the purpose is using on rough roads daily, an over built trailer may be the right tool for the job, versus "properly spec'd"
Click to expand...
I'm not hauling anything a bumper pull trailer couldn't handle but I'm lazy and a deckover gooseneck makes loading easy. I also like the idea of eventually throwing a camper on it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
3200lbs is more than a 20' 10k buggy hauler (full width, drive over fenders) wieghs. You're dreaming thinking you can get a 32-36' trailer that light. Unless I missed something?
Click to expand...

Well, the part about weight wasn't regarding any trailer in particular, pulling hypothetical numbers from my ass, more about "right sizing" than anything

Though I did look up a 10k big Tex
Screenshot_20220501-154355.png



I do have a wrecked 32' 5th wheel with 2 5200lb axles, alloy wheels, it was flopped by a storm when it was parked, brand new. I want to make it a stripped down car hauler, one heavier truck, or two lighter rigs, likely open center, maybe use repurposed walkways or expanded metal for the tracks, lightweight front to back

I have a feeling I could get 28 feet of deck and be at 3k lbs without a spare tire, with ramps that would sustain a 8k pickup
 
Projectjunkie said:
Well, the part about weight wasn't regarding any trailer in particular, pulling hypothetical numbers from my ass, more about "right sizing" than anything

Though I did look up a 10k big Tex
Screenshot_20220501-154355.png



I do have a wrecked 32' 5th wheel with 2 5200lb axles, alloy wheels, it was flopped by a storm when it was parked, brand new. I want to make it a stripped down car hauler, one heavier truck, or two lighter rigs, likely open center, maybe use repurposed walkways or expanded metal for the tracks, lightweight front to back

I have a feeling I could get 28 feet of deck and be at 3k lbs without a spare tire, with ramps that would sustain a 8k pickup
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Full deck width adds a bit of wieght. I thought my FIL's 20' was around 3500lbs, but can't find it now.

5th wheel frames are light. That wedge trailer I got from 2bb was 2850lbs. It had 32' of deck, but that was including on top of the tounge.

All the structure that was added was super light, 120 or 090. I think your goal is on the optimistic side, but I don't think you'd be too far over, just would have to deal with a floppy frame.

I do agree, that buying a long goose can get really heavy for just hauling vehicles though.
 
I second skipping the deckover and going with drive over fenders. I have a small deck over and it works cause it was cheap but the load is certainly off the ground.

My 28' bigger goose is a non deck over and it hauls nearly everything just fine. Would fit a camper no issue.

Clearance between the gooseneck and truck bed is something to watch for, one has ton of room, the other gets real close to the bedsides.
Tire placement. Short trailers tires are centered and the 28 they are more rearwards. You have to watch the swing on the longer trailer and loading is a bit tricky.
LED lights, the more the better and it you can get a look at the wiring before hand, some are better then others.
I like having storage in the gooseneck
I like the slide in ramps vs the fold up ones, I'd check how they store them, some system are nice and relatively noise free and others bang and make horrible noises in and out.
Stake pockets that are normal sized. One of my trail has stake pockets that don't fit hooks or the dring convertors.
All of mine have single center jack but the dual jacks is better.

16" wheels with Goodyear or Bridgestone LT rated trailer tires, 265 somethings. Or the super singles sound interesting.
 
Weasel said:
....
LED lights, the more the better and it you can get a look at the wiring before hand, some are better then others.
I like having storage in the gooseneck
I like the slide in ramps vs the fold up ones, I'd check how they store them, some system are nice and relatively noise free and others bang and make horrible noises in and out.
Stake pockets that are normal sized. One of my trail has stake pockets that don't fit hooks or the dring convertors.
All of mine have single center jack but the dual jacks is better.

16" wheels with Goodyear or Bridgestone LT rated trailer tires, 265 somethings. Or the super singles sound interesting.
Click to expand...


I agree 100% with those (probably your others as well but definitely the above). Trailer tires are sucktastic
 
Two speed landing gear with 2 jacks not one, torque tube, pop up center on dove if not the big ramps or triple ramps. I beam frame and neck. Oil bath axles. Higher neck so you have lots of clearance above bed.
 
rockyota83 said:
fify :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

I want 17.5s instead of 16s, but cant stomach the cost. My 4400# 16s like to budge when loaded to capacity where the trailer doesnt care.

Apparently the 215s are only good for a fish habitat. The 235s are suppose to be titties.
 
TRINDU said:
I want 17.5s instead of 16s, but cant stomach the cost. My 4400# 16s like to budge when loaded to capacity where the trailer doesnt care.

Apparently the 215s are only good for a fish habitat. The 235s are suppose to be titties.
Click to expand...

How much damn weight are you putting on them to make them bulge? :laughing:

I've had way to much on all steel 14 ply 4050lb tires and never noticed them bulging.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How much damn weight are you putting on them to make them bulge? :laughing:

I've had way to much on all steel 14 ply 4050lb tires and never noticed them bulging.
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This is empty. Then throw another 12-15k on top. Not hard to do with equipment. Tires and hubs are still ambient to the touch when I refuel. Just a peace of mind more than anything.


20220407_174456.jpg
 
TRINDU said:
This is empty. Then throw another 12-15k on top. Not hard to do with equipment. Tires and hubs are still ambient to the touch when I refuel. Just a peace of mind more than anything.
Click to expand...

If the tires aren't hot, it should be fine.

You put them at 110? Or think that less is better :flipoff2:
 
lots of good info here.

one thing that has continuously bothered me is the license plate location and how they continue to mount them in the path of the fold down ramps. i havnt found a good way to mount and light the plate on the dove tail

i also like carrying more than one spare. i REALLY like those fancy baja support style trailer with the extra complete axle mounted underneath.
 
Weasel said:
16" wheels with Goodyear or Bridgestone LT rated trailer tires, 265 somethings. Or the super singles sound interesting.
Click to expand...
any love for those 235 - 14 ply transeagle units?

ive had good success with other trailers with those tires. i havent had to replace the shitty carlisle tires on my new PJ yet.
 
request the builder to run all the electrical though washers welded to the frame, or if they can't just torch cut a hole though the cross member and jam the wires in there.
In order to keep cost down too, make sure they only use scotch lock wire connectors on everything.
Oh wait, no one, request for none of that.
 
welndmn said:
request the builder to run all the electrical though washers welded to the frame, or if they can't just torch cut a hole though the cross member and jam the wires in there.
In order to keep cost down too, make sure they only use scotch lock wire connectors on everything.
Oh wait, no one, request for none of that.
Click to expand...

Crazy for something that bounces and vibrates as much as a trailer. Kinda amazing they make it more than a few months.

My old work had an old self built trailer that had metal conduit ran. Actually worked pretty well.
 
My gooseneck is a Doolittle and is well built. it's the HD Extreme version. mine is 24' equipment so 82" wide. I like having the vehicles behind the truck out of the wind but there have been a couple of times a deck over would be nice.

My new dump trailer is Iron Bull. it is bumper pull but is well build, wiring harness is molded so no Scotch locks. :grinpimp:

I would look into those brands.

When I was looking at dump trailers I actually went to go look at a PJ gooseneck dump and the welds underneath were sub par. The Iron Bull was sitting next to it and looked better so I bought it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
My old work had an old self built trailer that had metal conduit ran. Actually worked pretty well.
Click to expand...
when i refresh/rewire a trailer i weld tube down the length of the trailer below the cross members and run the wire through it, bulkhead clamps for going into/out of tool box sheet metal/plate, done 3 this way so far
 
LunchBoxFab said:
any love for those 235 - 14 ply transeagle units?

ive had good success with other trailers with those tires. i havent had to replace the shitty carlisle tires on my new PJ yet.
Click to expand...
no I've just stuck with the 2 major brands (US made I believe), Bridgestone don't have the load rating the Goodyears do so run them on the smaller trailers. Goodyears on the 28'. I don't trust any trailer tire that has a ST on it as good for much.
 
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