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WHAT DID YOU DO FOR YOUR FORD TODAY?

Will be installing ICM today.
 

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Single.

I probably could have got the union to seal if I made a double when I replaced it.
I double flare anything that I can get away with.

I was working on hydraulic tubing that only required single flare, they broke or leaked until I doubled it.
 
I double flare anything that I can get away with.

I was working on hydraulic tubing that only required single flare, they broke or leaked until I doubled it.
I habitually do single because for the longest time I only had the cheapest kits which at the time didn't come with the double flare mandrels so single flaring is second nature.
 
Backstory: previously mentioned an overheating issue last weekend when engine was under load (in this case 4lo up a steep hill on a 90 degree day). I've been dealing with weird overheating shit for a year and a half since I put a rebuilt 400 in and made it pass smog (old 351m without smog stuff ran cool). After I passed smog I took off the stock air cleaner, heat riser tube from the headers, moved vacuum advance hook-up to the ported thermal switch, and kept the EGR valve connected there. Some where along the way I moved the EGR directly to ported vacuum (which was the right thing to do), and moved vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum. This was to raise idle rpms to spin the fan faster to address an overheating issue related to a lot of air in the system. This also lead to me doing a whole electric fan upgrade etc.

So after a lot of reading I moved the vacuum advance off up the thermal switch and directly to ported vacuum, set base timing to 8-9* and ensured the vac advanced worked.. truck runs like it did before the engine replacement. Now when I get on it/under load, it cools the truck down instead of raising temps (big aluminum radiator doing what it's supposed to). I think the thermal switch I have (red) either doesn't work or it comes on at too hot of a temperature.

Will have to properly test this some more but very happy with the results. Now I can get back to the Vintage Air AC install.
 
Hack tip of the day: For repairs on an outside corner where bondo just won't stick Liquid Nails works great, at the expense of a much, much longer cure time before you can sand it.

Hack tip of the day #2. Paint your car using a paint product line and color that is availible off the shelf in a spray paint can. Sure it will look like ass without clear coat but it makes touch up a hell of a lot easier.
 
Removed the non f150 hitch and adapter plates from the f150, in preps for the new fuel tank and correct hitch.
I'm pretty sure that hitch (the right one that came in the bed of the truck) came from a member on the old site who sold me a mostly rusted out F250 frame.

The wrong hitch was stolen out of someone else's scrap pile by yours truly back in high school.
 
The POS left me stranded this morning! The tensioner pulley decided to eat a bearing and in turn the serpentine belt......
I was able to have a friend come by and give me a ride to the auto parts store to pick up a new tensioner unit, there was a new serpentine belt in the truck, of course that MOFO wouldn't fit so I had to get a ride to another parts store to get a new belt. Luckily for me the lot where I pulled in lived a younger fellow who brought out his tool set and a step stool. He gave me a ride to the second store for the belt and helped get it on. I tossed him a fiddy, he was grateful and happened to be taking his girl and child to the great escape today. I was thankful for the assistance.
 
I'm pretty sure that hitch (the right one that came in the bed of the truck) came from a member on the old site who sold me a mostly rusted out F250 frame.

The wrong hitch was stolen out of someone else's scrap pile by yours truly back in high school.
I would have left the old one if it didn't have an interference fit with the new 38 gallon tank. at first glance the one in the bed looks to be the right width so should fit up fine.
 
Well I had a noise coming from the ds rear, turns out the inside pad had worn and worked it's way up and out of the caliper part way :lmao:
I went to town and bought new pads and a new caliper for that side, I will put it back together in the morning when it's (hopefully) cooler, it got down right hot and humid today.
I guess new cam phasers are in my future, not sure if a complete timing set or just the phasers yet.
 
The POS left me stranded this morning! The tensioner pulley decided to eat a bearing and in turn the serpentine belt......
I was able to have a friend come by and give me a ride to the auto parts store to pick up a new tensioner unit, there was a new serpentine belt in the truck, of course that MOFO wouldn't fit so I had to get a ride to another parts store to get a new belt. Luckily for me the lot where I pulled in lived a younger fellow who brought out his tool set and a step stool. He gave me a ride to the second store for the belt and helped get it on. I tossed him a fiddy, he was grateful and happened to be taking his girl and child to the great escape today. I was thankful for the assistance.
Was it an OBS power stroke? Ford recommends updating those with the 99-03 SD tensioner. https://cpaddict.com/content/7.3DualTensionerMod.pdf
 
My girlfriend went and got some new rims and tires for her Bronco project 33x12.5x15:

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Right after I got done putting those on they dropped off my 10.5 sterling 3.73 e-locker for the 1-ton swap on my F150:

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Now I have both axles.. just need to get wheels, tires, brakes, WFO arms ...$$$

Those tiny little shoes for the emergency brake tripped me out for a bit till I realized that's what they were (never seen that setup before).
 
So over the past few months the Aerostar has been having a temp spike as the thermostat opens. Tuesday and Wednesday were the first time it peaked above the "normal". So I swapped in a new thermostat Wednesday evening after work. On the test drive and drive to work this morning new thermostat seemed to initially stick open and prevent the van from warming up but it seems to be working normal now. Whatever, I don't care as long as it doesn't stick closed.

I really need to spend a few hours putting a fucking bed crane in the van. I spent Tuesday evening unloading boat engines with a f-ing engine hoist in the dirt. It would have taken 10min if I could just back up to the drop area and swing them out.
 
Today I installed new rear calipers and pads, those friggin composite pistons suck azz, meh, got great brakes now :usa:
On a lighter note, the blower motor only works when it damn well feels like it so this morning I smacked it with a hammer and it came on, been operating fine all day. It's crazy humid and hot here so I wanted the AC :flipoff2:
 
Realized I'm 'tarded:

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Funny, I passed smog with the EGR completely inoperable. He even said my results were better than some modern cars.

Anyway, I'm not expecting any miracles but maybe once I have the right gasket and EGR is working it'll keep the truck just a tiny bit cooler with the smog timing and tune.
 
Realized I'm 'tarded:

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Funny, I passed smog with the EGR completely inoperable. He even said my results were better than some modern cars.

Anyway, I'm not expecting any miracles but maybe once I have the right gasket and EGR is working it'll keep the truck just a tiny bit cooler with the smog timing and tune.
Does it have a vacuum leak with the intake rough like that?
 
I've only been able to pull a somewhat erratic 14-15hg once warmed up. Since you've pointed it out I'm thinking stuff the intake holes with paper towels and tape over it so I can hit the surface with plumber's cloth and carb cleaner.. have a better suggestion/tips though?
 
I've only been able to pull a somewhat erratic 14-15hg once warmed up. Since you've pointed it out I'm thinking stuff the intake holes with paper towels and tape over it so I can hit the surface with plumber's cloth and carb cleaner.. have a better suggestion/tips though?
I've used a file on aluminum intakes.
But on cast iron exhaust manifolds I've used a sanding board 2½ x 16 or whatever it is re surface them so I could bolt them to the head without gaskets.
Like this https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-899...ocphy=9031814&hvtargid=pla-569984889011&psc=1
 
I discovered that I now have a decent oil leak somewhere near the front of the motor. My guess from what I have found on the interwebz is the oil cooler gasket. I am hoping to get it on a friends lift soon to check it out, otherwise I'll be drivin' her up on ramps and laying on the ground to look it over.
 
played with the harmonic balancer today.


Found the timing markings/put a white dot on the front of said balancer under the '10* BTDC' mark.
 
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Swapped thermostat to replace the one I swapped in last week that wasn't letting it fully warm up. Found a broken coolant temp sensor. Fixed that with one that was in stock. Maybe I'll take it for a drive later tonight to see where I fucked up and if it leaks.

I tried using one of those rubber gaskets that goes around the thermostat like you see on a Subaru EJ or LS so we'll see if that works out.
 
One of these? I tried one with high flow stat on l my little 466. Got tired of R&R of glue on type.
Look up the thermostat for an '09 Chevy with the 4.8 LS and imagine that rubber gasket on a normal 54mm thermostat. Have to be careful to align it properly since the manifold and thermostat housing aren't built for that style and it will leak if it's not centered.

And for the record, the new thermostat did a temp spike on warm up (and then runs at normal time) just like the first one. So I drilled a 3/16 hole in it and now the van doesn't warm up at all.
 
Man this shit does not want to stop teaching me lessons.

- Got the correct gasket for the EGR plate to intake so that this thing doesn't run lean under load with the 2150 smog carb. I'm really betting that's been the cause of all of my running hot issues.

- Looked over at the truck this evening and found a puddle of coolant. My newish aluminum radiator has a leak at the top where my custom fabbed fan mount allows the MK VIII shroud to touch the fins. I saw it when I did it, didn't think it would be a problem. Lesson learned. I'll be switching back to the mechanical fan and shroud since it always worked great in the past no matter what with the 351m that had a 4bbl carb and no EGR on it (now that I know this 400 I have set up to pass smog wasn't set up right by yours truly).

- A month ago I had a shop run new brake hard lines and install a proportioning valve I got from Bronco Graveyard.. that just started leaking. Apparently it's a common problem with these China made replacement valves. I ordered a Wilwood that I'll have a shop install cause I hate fucking with brake lines and I just don't want to spend the time on it right now. Needed the upgraded valve for the 1-ton swap that just keeps getting further and further away from me.

So, I need to get this EGR and carb back on the motor, and then see if I can use something at VatoZone to patch my radiator well enough that it won't make a mess for the shop I have install the proportioning valve (no one has a good replacement radiator in stock).

Annoyed but I think there's light at the end of the tunnel with this EGR revelation.
 
Well I found my oil leak! :mad3: Apparently a week ago when the tensioner pulley ate the bearing the pulley also chewed through the timing cover :flipoff:
Now I'm going to pull the tensioner, spray it down with brake clean and see if I can JB weld it enogh until which time I have to pull the covers and do the timing set.:beer:
 
Unless it already needs a timing set just pull the radiator or whatever else you need to do to get the access you need to weld it.

If it's an aluminum cover the Zena "no gas" brazing rods are pretty operator friendly IMO.
 
Got my LED driving lights wired up along with a set of strobes in the grill and added the Raptor led's :flipoff2:
No oil leak that I have seen since the JB weld :smokin:
 
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