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What did you do for your ford today?

Worked on replacing the header gaskets on my eb. Of course the flange was a bit out of true and I didn’t want to deal with trying to find a machine shop to resurface them. So, I cut a sanding belt and taped it down to a piece of granite countertop scrap and started sanding it. PS side done and drivers side to go.
 

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holdmypocket said:
Rebuilt the column: turn signal switch/bearings, connected to the Centech harness was hoping the turn signals would work this time with a new switch (no luck). New steering wheel (looks stock but is smaller diameter).

Put new seats in and door mirrors.

Pretty much ready to drive around town using hand signals to turn, brake lights and headlights are enough :flipoff2:.

IMG_3491.jpeg
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WTF; Bentley Continental GT bucket seats? :confused: :grinpimp::beer:
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After having installed a "new" caliper on the front left last week I took the truck to town yesterday and by the time I got home it was hot as hell again, I had intended to replace the rubber hose at the same time and completely spaced it, I put a new rubber hose on it today and then drove it to town and back and it was cool as a cucumber :)
 
Ordered a 91" fan belt.
Stock '94 5.0 fan belts are 99"

I measured/calculated by bypassing the A/C pulley and go from PS pump pulley/under idler pulley/to alternator pulley, it would shorten fan belt by 8".

1688956264869.png
 
I swear to god, engineers should be forced to work on stuff after they design it. An hour to get the last EBPV bolt out. Finally said fuck it put a wrench on it then used a 1 1/4 inch wrench as a makeshift punch and beat the shit out of it with a hammer. It finally came loose. Next up is the two rear pedestal bolts. Which of course one of them I can't even see.
 
Tore down the driverside rear on my F250 AGAIN last night after having a gear oil fire in the ebrake sunday :shaking:

Fresh seal, again, and did an ebrake delete. They're fuckin worthless in the northeast due to rust seizing them up, unless you use it daily. Last time the seal barfed, it saturated the near new ebrake shoes which made them swell and almost constantly lightly drag.

Also pulled the vent line fitting and cleaned that out, which was likely the culprit for the seal letting go
 
Should there be any play between the input shaft and sector shaft on my 4-bolt gearbox?:eek::mad3:🙁

Was installing the pitman arm; steering shaft and tie rods not connected.
While tightening the sector shaft bolt said sector shaft slipped/rotated with the bolt.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Should there be any play between the input shaft and sector shaft on my 4-bolt gearbox?:eek::mad3:🙁
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YES

There's a spec for it. And a spec for the amount of input torque it takes to move the output shaft.

Regardless, you will NEVER get a vehicle with a recirculating ball steering gear to drive like a car with a rack because there's necessarily far more stacked tolerances and some of those tolerances are all multiplied by the box ratio and all of those tolerances are at the inboard end of the pitman arm (which multiplies them by about 5-10).
 
arse_sidewards said:
YES

There's a spec for it. And a spec for the amount of input torque it takes to move the output shaft.

Regardless, you will NEVER get a vehicle with a recirculating ball steering gear to drive like a car with a rack because there's necessarily far more stacked tolerances and some of those tolerances are all multiplied by the box ratio and all of those tolerances are at the inboard end of the pitman arm (which multiplies them by about 5-10).
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OK; cool; that's music to my ears😍

I thought I did something wrong.😬
 
Three new sets of tires in a couple of months (I only paid for one set thankfully), one is getting new U-joints probably today. Another needs a starter. :homer:
 
CDA 455 II said:
Ordered a 91" fan belt.
Stock '94 5.0 fan belts are 99"

I measured/calculated by bypassing the A/C pulley and go from PS pump pulley/under idler pulley/to alternator pulley, it would shorten fan belt by 8".

1688956264869.png
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CDA 455 II said:
I'll be removing the A/C compressor bracket and PS pump tomorrow.
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I posted too soon... the shorter fan belt arrives this Tuesday.

I want to install said fan belt to confirm it's length is proper.
Then want to cycle the steering to confirm the 4-bolt gearbox works.
 
Replaced some vacuum lines:
20230715_194318.jpg

Now I have to decide whether I want to do vacuum lines for 'air B/air D' solenoids:
20230715_184128.jpg

From what I understand; as long as the EGR, fuel pressure reg., and A/C system has vacuum, the other stuff is for the air/smog pump and will just throw codes and won't affect engine working properly.

Am I correct?
 
reptillikus said:
If the smog pump is gone then you can eliminate AIR D & AIR B as they are what actuate the smog pump stuff. Youll get codes if you unplug them but they dont affect the engine tune.
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If the CEL is an issue then measure resistance across solenoid and install resistor(s) of that value. The computer has no way to know the solenoid is working. It just knows that there is something of the proper resistance in the circuit.

Shit like EGR and other things that have a sensor measuring the efficacy of what the actuator is supposed to be doing are more involved to delete.
 
Can someone with a 2.3 measure the overall length for me including fan/fan clutch (whichever is longer).

I'm getting to the point where I gotta put an accessory drive on the Mercruiser and I need to know how much space I have to work with.
 
arse_sidewards said:
If the CEL is an issue then measure resistance across solenoid and install resistor(s) of that value. The computer has no way to know the solenoid is working. It just knows that there is something of the proper resistance in the circuit.

Shit like EGR and other things that have a sensor measuring the efficacy of what the actuator is supposed to be doing are more involved to delete.
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I dont know that the TAD or TAB will turn on the CEL. They dont on my 88 or my wife's 90. I removed them, because most people dont notice them missing, but everyone will notice if they are there and unhooked. Youre right though; if you leave them plugged in with no vacuum lines hooked up to them, you wont get any codes. FSB says an 82ohm 3watt resistor will trick the computer if its unplugged.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
If the CEL is an issue then measure resistance across solenoid and install resistor(s) of that value. The computer has no way to know the solenoid is working. It just knows that there is something of the proper resistance in the circuit.

Shit like EGR and other things that have a sensor measuring the efficacy of what the actuator is supposed to be doing are more involved to delete.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I had this exact idea but I haven't tried it yet.
 
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