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What did you do for your ford today?

arse_sidewards said:
Transmission cooler is a better use of the condenser considering the camper he carries around a lot of the time.

His '94's condensor will "just work". All he has to do is adapt the fittings. Probably should flush it first though an ounce of A/C oil isn't gonna kill anything when spread across a couple gallons of ATF.
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Wouldn't a cooler that size drop/reduce pressure in the system?:confused:
 
CDA 455 II said:
Wouldn't a cooler that size drop/reduce pressure in the system?:confused:
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No. The cooling system is under no pressure other than what it takes to move it through the line and back to the pan.

If anything the increased length of run and additional cooler would increase pressure (not by enough to matter to anything though).

Fluid goes through the pump, trans hydraulics, then the torque converter, then out the side to the cooler and then back to the pan.
 
Got a whole day and a half in fixing random stuff on the Bronco. New brake master cylinder and full fluid replacement, new tcase rear output yoke seal, upgraded to heavy duty flasher for trailers (I think, seems like it clicks faster than the stock one, idk), removed the front sway bar, flushed all the disgusting mud out of the cooling system until it ran completely clean, and put in a 180* thermostat.
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Got the truck all buttoned up from intercooler install. Start it up and it starts pissing oil from the turbo pedestal. Just fucking wonderful.

Gonna switch over to a non EBPV pedestal and delete the damm EBPV while it is out. Gonna throw and new compressor wheel in at the same time.
 
Took the Ranger out to a July 3rd party, first real trip on the road since 2017.

Runs hot, like 210, creeps to 220 if you hammer on it, I have an inline radiator cap deal, since the radiator isn't the highest point in the system. I think the new cap isn't pressurizing well, although I did see it spike to 235 after stopping for gas, so maybe it is? Should pull and change the thermostat, I watch it creep to 210, then drop to 190 when the thermostat opens. Sensor is in the intake manifold.

Need to replumb the fuel filler, I need an elbow, the large sweep one I bought and cut down isnt sealing worth shit, cause I cut it :homer:

Never ran a steering stabilizer, but I want to try one.

Other than that, ran great, got some thumbs up, hammered on it a few time. Good stuff
 
posford said:
Took the Ranger out to a July 3rd party, first real trip on the road since 2017.

Runs hot, like 210, creeps to 220 if you hammer on it, I have an inline radiator cap deal, since the radiator isn't the highest point in the system. I think the new cap isn't pressurizing well, although I did see it spike to 235 after stopping for gas, so maybe it is? Should pull and change the thermostat, I watch it creep to 210, then drop to 190 when the thermostat opens. Sensor is in the intake manifold.
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Cap doesn't affect cooling as long as you're below the boiling point.

You have the bypass circuit set up properly? Heater core clogged with rust from sitting?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Cap doesn't affect cooling as long as you're below the boiling point.

You have the bypass circuit set up properly? Heater core clogged with rust from sitting?
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Bypass circuit?

Heater core is looped with a hose
 
Do you have a reliable temp gauge? I used a mechanical gauge for two years, finally switched to electrical without changing anything else and realized the mechanical was way off, and not in a linear/predictable way.
 
holdmypocket said:
Do you have a reliable temp gauge? I used a mechanical gauge for two years, finally switched to electrical without changing anything else and realized the mechanical was way off, and not in a linear/predictable way.
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I mean its an old ass Sunpro, outside of temp seeming high it reacts like I would expect. I've verified the thermostat opening thing
 
CDA 455 II said:
So; electrical is preferred over a mechanical one?🤔
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Consider my experience anecdotal. I went through two of these:

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

And I was very careful about how I routed the line and all that.

Basically when the truck warmed up it read 160-170.. never higher except for ONE time that I hit a long, steep, sandy hill and it rose up to 195.

When I put the electrical version of that same gauge in (I know, same brand) it read what I expected (the thermostat temp) 180 degrees. When I compare with an infrared thermometer the readings make more sense than they did when I had the mechanical version.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I only bought another shitty Bosch gauge because I ordered the Dakota Digital HDX gauge and it won't ship until August most likely. (I bought this because my stock gauge cluster is all fucked up the printed circuit board and plastic backing are falling apart and this cluster will be nice when I eventually do a modern drivetrain swap.)
 
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What happened?:confused:

1) Bolted up the gearbox.
2) Connected the hoses.
3) Filled the reservoir.
4)Started the engine.
5) Topped off reservoir.
6) Idled engine for 15min.
7) Put the cap on PS pump.
8) Idled engine for 5 more minutes.
9) Turned off engine.
10) Walked to front of Bronco and found what is pictured.
11) Found cap turned 90° on reservoir neck (like an open butterfly on a throttle).
Looks like the PS dip stick hitting the neck wall kept the cap from coming completely off.

nOOB observation:
a) Looks like pressure built up when I placed the cap on.
b) Something happened when I shut the engine off because that's exactly when the incident occurred.
c) I did not cycle steering wheel because no pitman/the pitman arm won't arrived until Tuesday.

W.A.G.:
I wonder if that's what happened with the previous gearbox; but the pressure blew out at the sector shaft seals where fluid exited?

WHAT HAPPENED?
 
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Thatg9659 said:
You didn't cycle the steering so you didn't bleed out any air?

That era of ford steering pumps has always given me a puddle somewhere.
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Yeah; didn't cycle, just let it idle.

I think I'm going to use this opportunity to do a Saginaw swap; whether I want to or not.
I was hoping on kicking that project down the road, at least until the Fall.
 
nOOB questions:
If I didn't cycle the steering wheel to bleed the air from the PS fluid; could that have caused the pressure build up in the reservoir?

Does not cycling the steering wheel prevent PS fluid from getting to/through the gearbox?
 
You'll never get all the air out without turning the box lock to lock. Oil flows from the pump to the valve on the top of the box but doesn't really flow thru the box itself unless you're turning it.


Power steering pumps bypass internally pretty much the whole time they're spinning. I suppose in theory you got the oil hot, and then air in the box migrated into the pump causing a pressure burst in the reservoir?
 
Rebuilt the column: turn signal switch/bearings, connected to the Centech harness was hoping the turn signals would work this time with a new switch (no luck). New steering wheel (looks stock but is smaller diameter).

Put new seats in and door mirrors.

Pretty much ready to drive around town using hand signals to turn, brake lights and headlights are enough :flipoff2:.

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