That's a cool Explorer! I've got a set of the same axles and a 205 that I've been thinking about putting in something. What coils and steering box did you use?
WHAT DID YOU DO FOR YOUR FORD TODAY?
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Looks like the same steering box in my 78 F150 so probably the Bronco box (honestly can't remember), and the coils are early bronco coils.. i think 3.5" with a Deaver 10 leaf pack in the rear and extended shackles.
I'll have the same set of axles after my 1-ton swap and I have a leftover Bronco D20. If I don't sell them I've thought of building a Ranger or something with a "lighter" configuration than my F150... don't really need two crawlers though
My first thought was to v8 swap a Ranger with an Explorer engine and trans, but just using the Explorer would be less work.Looks like the same steering box in my 78 F150 so probably the Bronco box (honestly can't remember), and the coils are early bronco coils.. i think 3.5" with a Deaver 10 leaf pack in the rear and extended shackles.
I'll have the same set of axles after my 1-ton swap and I have a leftover Bronco D20. If I don't sell them I've thought of building a Ranger or something with a "lighter" configuration than my F150... don't really need two crawlers though
Put about 110mi on my 79 today. First real drive with the new fuel injection I put on it.
Drove the Bronco to the storage unit.
nOOB question:
Does the Bronco's 5.0L engine know or care if it's doing 3,000RPM down a city street at 35MPH or a freeway doing 65MPH?
Meaning; 'blowing out the carbon' via high RPMs while driving on the street (carbon=stop and go/low RPMs), vs freeway miles.
nOOB question:
Does the Bronco's 5.0L engine know or care if it's doing 3,000RPM down a city street at 35MPH or a freeway doing 65MPH?
Meaning; 'blowing out the carbon' via high RPMs while driving on the street (carbon=stop and go/low RPMs), vs freeway miles.
3000rpm and high load is going to be better than 3000rpm low load.
Hook up a heavy trailer and hit the highway.
Ah; Ok.
Side note;
Back in '18 I did exactly that helping a buddy move up to ID from CA.
I towed an overloaded 12' UHaul trailer 1,000 miles in 2nd gear at 50 to 55MPH (3,500 to 4,500RPMs) the whole way.
I had about 210,000+ miles on the Bronco/5.0L at the time.
Yeah that'll do it.
Ordered 4 of these in different flavors (bolt sizes):
That is awesome!
Finally did the passenger cab corner, dicking around in the shop I found a spot under hood for the viair compressor I was given. That had something like a 1/2 gallon tank with it, I found this old 5 gallon portable air tank. Mocking it up on the frame rail, need to figure out how to mount it. I was considering mounting it with the bung pointed down to drain water, but it looks like it'll hang dumb low with a tee and pipe cap. Dunno yet.
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Going on an ice trip tomorrow up Ghostpine river, have to travel 30miles to get there, blew off Octobers dust and seeing the ice is sorta breaking up I put on the appropriate cut through it set o tars, will chain up rear when we get there.
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Put a new grill and new headlights in. 26 year old hazed over headlights were like a candle compared to these things. 200 bucks on amazon.
Drag a wet paper towel across that mfer.
Fuck even my shit isn't that filthy.
Fuck even my shit isn't that filthy.
The inside of the lense is what's dirty.Drag a wet paper towel across that mfer.
Fuck even my shit isn't that filthy.
I cleaned the outside of it.
Karen
You probably got your ps hose by now, but if you ever needed one in a pinch...e series van used the Saginaw pump and the ford steering box, the pressure hose is on the shelf at parts stores, just bend the hard line as needed
i.e. not much at all since the engine and suspension/steering is in basically the same place and it's the body that's different
I actually bought hose, AN fittings, and whatnot to learn how make one, just haven’t had a chance to get in there yet. It’s going to be a weird shaped hose because the two ports are so close together but facing wonky directions. The Vintage air ps pump/compressor bracket I have makes the pump sit outboard toward the drivers side more and lower than most other brackets from what I can tell. I’ll look that van hose up to get an idea of shape/routing.
Installed a Warn ascent bumper and Rigid lights on the tow pig. Moved the factory Warn 12k winch to the bumper and found out the factory Ford Warn winch uses a narrower bolt pattern than standard. Couldn’t find any info on it on Warns website, I had assumed it was a standard 12k Warn…That’s what I get for assuming
PS gearbox died/leaking from the sector shaft:
I have a spare gearbox I'm going to swap in:
I have a spare gearbox I'm going to swap in:
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FIgured out the wiring to put 04 excursion seats in my 97. Got all the movement buttons to work. Now gonna order seat heaters and seat covers and then try to refresh my brain on how to get them installed.
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Bought and installed a topper for $100. Deciding if I want to keep it or not. Of course it is missing the rear glass and the frame is bent. Not finding much info on it online. I'll probably try to remove the rear hatch frame to straighten it out and take it to a glass place to see if they can cut some glass to put back in it. Otherwise some plywood will do just fine.
Finally made the pressure hose out of stainless braided and AN fittings for my Saginaw conversion on the 78 F150. None of the off-the-shelf hoses work because of the Vintage Air brackets I'm using; an uncommon configuration.
Anyway, I was surprised at how straightforward it was to build the hose. One of the tips I read was when inserting the male fitting into the hose you should put a piece of tape on the hose to see if it moves as you tighten the fitting. I forgot to do this on one of the ends so if it's going to leak I guess it'll do it there.
Kind of a pricey endeavor to get started: I bought the Koul Tool for -6 AN fittings, several different fittings with swivel ends and different angles (this was the main cost), hose, hose cutter, assembly lube (probably didn't need this).. but at least I don't have to go to the hose shop anymore and deal with that crabby old bastard when I need something made.
I know the routing is goofy but the two ports that need to mate are less than 5 inches apart and pointing in weird directions/angles even with the swivel ends. This is also temporary because I'll be T-ing in a line for hydroboost later this year.
Didn't finish the job and hook everything up because I need to replace my rubber fuel line, measure for v-belts, and too many distractions at the house today.
Anyway, I was surprised at how straightforward it was to build the hose. One of the tips I read was when inserting the male fitting into the hose you should put a piece of tape on the hose to see if it moves as you tighten the fitting. I forgot to do this on one of the ends so if it's going to leak I guess it'll do it there.
Kind of a pricey endeavor to get started: I bought the Koul Tool for -6 AN fittings, several different fittings with swivel ends and different angles (this was the main cost), hose, hose cutter, assembly lube (probably didn't need this).. but at least I don't have to go to the hose shop anymore and deal with that crabby old bastard when I need something made.
I know the routing is goofy but the two ports that need to mate are less than 5 inches apart and pointing in weird directions/angles even with the swivel ends. This is also temporary because I'll be T-ing in a line for hydroboost later this year.
Didn't finish the job and hook everything up because I need to replace my rubber fuel line, measure for v-belts, and too many distractions at the house today.
Can you do a build thread on it?Got my E4od to ZF5 swap done, still have to button up a few things, but it drives again
I'm thinking of going this route as well.
What motor is it bolted to?
460, small block is the same as far as everything you’ll need, small block ZF5, pedal assembly, modify or swap column, shorten/lengthen drive shafts (E4od is longer) the wiring and computer can be reused, basically a bolt in swap, easiest way is having a donor vehicle, will look more factory that way and less modification
Thanks for the info.
I ordered my old '99.5 XL with a ZF6/PS diesel.
Loved the 50:1 drive ratio.
I'm learning if I want my ideal final drive ratio of 100-150:1 I need to return to a stick.
What's your T-case?
Do you know if the 351 shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 460?
Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, bronco is a fixed yoke, pickup is a slip yoke
Big block and small block are different bell housings
Big block is external slave cylinder
Small block is internal slave cylinder