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Well hopefully i haven't dug a hole too deep on this one. New to me diesel pusher.

1Sinner

1Sinner

Just won't quit
CAL4
Joined
Feb 22, 2021
Member Number
3533
Messages
1,063
Loc
Edwards Commiefornia
Like it says, it's another money pit. 1997 monaco dynasty upgrade from the 5er for towing/camping/family fun duties. Not going to believe this. 1387.4 miles on the chassis. Old couple bought it, used it a bit and let it set due to health reasons.

8.3 cummins, Allison auto, 38ft, no slides. Did start, but won't stay running (believe the electric lift pump is shot, guarantee the shutdown solenoid is weak). Plus bad, really old diesel in the tank. Momma is skeptical, but for the investment I'm satisfied so far. Hopefully can get it running in the next few weeks and reduce her fears.

Had to have it drug home, but solid oak cabinets, a reliable diesel/trans combo, and other than the fuck ton of work to change 6 295 75r22.5's in a driveway with hand spoons, it's alright.
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CDA 455 II said:
Nice!:smokin::beer:


With that mileage; they probably used it for the first 5 years of it's life before sitting.


That diesel fuel has to be freakin' old!!:eek:
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Last tag was 2010. Diesel still smells ok, but not sure how much I trust it. Too bad it still has half a tank in it.
 
1Sinner said:
Last tag was 2010. Diesel still smells ok, but not sure how much I trust it. Too bad it still has half a tank in it.
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Add a half of good stuff. If hasn't got weird shit in it at this point I'll probably be fine.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Looks like a beaut. No slides is a win as far as potential leaks go.

What are the plans, just fix and use as is?
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No slides is fine by me. Roof has leaked around skylights, but all steel framing and an aluminum roof, I'm unconcerned. I'll clean up the water stains on the headliner with a steam cleaner.

Fix, upgrade the hall closet to bunks for the kids with dual futon up front for little our army, and use the crap out of it. Good tow pig with the drivetrain. Don't have to hear kids complain they need to use the restroom or stop for lunch and just go.
 
Very jealous:smokin:


97 so it's an inline p7100 type pump, correct?

I've started lots of diesels on 7-8 year old fuel, but that could have been 2-3 years old in 2010:laughing:

I'd probably drain it into clean jugs, to sock filter and add in slowly later

Or, bypass the tank entirely and feed it from a clean jug to get it running

That injection pump has a little $30 overflow valve that likes to cause problems

Also, I remember reading on the old site that a guy had problems with new old stock Allison transmissions, something about the torque converter not storing well, might be worth a search
 
Yup, p7100. Confirmed last night it's the 300hp "Duke" model with the allison 6 speed. Hopefully the trans doesn't have issues, as I have no idea how I'd get to it to pull the trans and change it out. Once I get it running I'll have to crank it up with pump adjustments to the 330 hp settings.
Any more info on that overflow valve would be appreciated.
 
1Sinner said:
Yup, p7100. Confirmed last night it's the 300hp "Duke" model with the allison 6 speed. Hopefully the trans doesn't have issues, as I have no idea how I'd get to it to pull the trans and change it out. Once I get it running I'll have to crank it up with pump adjustments to the 330 hp settings.
Any more info on that overflow valve would be appreciated.
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Maybe the trans concern is overblown, just keep it in mind if you have issues once running

Its been a bit since I've messed with one, IIRC its a fuel return/ pressure relief valve, and if it gets weak it bypasses lift pump pressure back to tank, cheap enough, and common enough failure that its ok to shotgun one at a driveabilty problem

Readily available from all the diesel enthusiast sites

Also, I'm not sure if the 8.3 has a p7100 pump, or a "p7100 type" pump, and how much is interchangeable


www.ebay.com

TORK TEK ADJUSTABLE OVERFLOW VALVE FOR CUMMINS 12V P7100 PUMP - OFV010 | eBay

Tork Tek Adjustable Overflow Valve OFV010. Do not use this valve with WVO or biodiesel. These fuels will erode the ball and wreck the seal. The OFV020 is built with stainless components and a Viton seal.
www.ebay.com
 
It's definitely a p7100. I have the factory cummins book that came with the coach. Was checking it out last night for the correct bleed procedure. I know for sure it has a weak/corroded fuel shutoff solenoid (New one on order) but I can definitely throw a check valve at it if the problem is that common and I already have to climb into the engine compartment. Thanks for the heads up.
 
The overflow valve is a (crude) fuel pressure regulator. It is a spring loaded check ball, located on the outlet of the pump on the return line. The spring gets weak over time, causing low fuel pressure, which leads to low power. It's easy to check the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge, and worthwhile to set up a temporary gauge. Some (all?) of the overflow valves can be disassembled and you can stretch the spring to get you by until you can replace the valve.

Pete
 
I have almost the same moho.

Check the windshield gaskets to make sure they are not bulging out at the bottom. They like to slide down and leak at the top. I am over a year 8nto trying to get mine fixed.

Plumbing, mine had the shit plastic stuff that was pre pex. Thermoguard? Can't get parts for it and it's complete crap. I ended up replumbing the whole thing in pex.

To computers on the trans like to go out. Theres a guy in texas that rebuilds them ad new ones aren't available.

Check the gray and black drains, the tanks are suspended and the drain is hard mounted to the floor. This rips the connections apart and rusts put the floor under them. Since yours is low mileage it's probably still in good shape. Unbolt the drain from the floor and let it sway with the tanks.
 
golden oak
best color cabinets, bar none

price?
I'd run the old diesel without a second thought, it's all a billion years old anyways, nothing like gasoline where 7/8 of it will evaporate off. Bring with a couple spare filters.
 
bdkw1 said:
I have almost the same moho.

Check the windshield gaskets to make sure they are not bulging out at the bottom. They like to slide down and leak at the top. I am over a year 8nto trying to get mine fixed.

Plumbing, mine had the shit plastic stuff that was pre pex. Thermoguard? Can't get parts for it and it's complete crap. I ended up replumbing the whole thing in pex.

To computers on the trans like to go out. Theres a guy in texas that rebuilds them ad new ones aren't available.

Check the gray and black drains, the tanks are suspended and the drain is hard mounted to the floor. This rips the connections apart and rusts put the floor under them. Since yours is low mileage it's probably still in good shape. Unbolt the drain from the floor and let it sway with the tanks.
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Solid advice. Windshield gasket looks good. I'll definitely check the drains. Fired up the plumbing today. I have a leak at the bottom of the distribution manifold, going to have to pull it and reseal.

Trans goes into gear fine, got it running yesterday. I'm concerned o er the king throttle Control going out. Looking at converting to air or cable. But so far seems to be fine.
 
[486] said:
golden oak
best color cabinets, bar none

price?
I'd run the old diesel without a second thought, it's all a billion years old anyways, nothing like gasoline where 7/8 of it will evaporate off. Bring with a couple spare filters.
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I like the honey oak, wife is not a fan, but for 15k on the buy in, I'll take it. So far I've fired about everything up and it seems to be working. Hell the paint isn't even worn off the pulleys yet. So I don't doubt the mileage.
 
The throttle on mine is funky. Everything happens in the first 1/3 of travel. It feels really snap like it's quick. Then you realize that's all there is. I got the marine fuel plate and stuff to up it to 400hp. It was pretty slow pulling grades and I wasn't even towing. Will have to check out the pressure valve deal while I'm fucking with the pump.

Water manifold...... that was what drove me to replace everything. I could see the orange o-rings sticking out of about half the sections. Most of the valves were stuck and the tabs would break off when you tried to turn them.

Does yours have the head knocker tube tv over the drivers seat? Took me about 2 head knocks to rip that fucker out.
 
bdkw1 said:
The throttle on mine is funky. Everything happens in the first 1/3 of travel. It feels really snap like it's quick. Then you realize that's all there is. I got the marine fuel plate and stuff to up it to 400hp. It was pretty slow pulling grades and I wasn't even towing. Will have to check out the pressure valve deal while I'm fucking with the pump.

Water manifold...... that was what drove me to replace everything. I could see the orange o-rings sticking out of about half the sections. Most of the valves were stuck and the tabs would break off when you tried to turn them.

Does yours have the head knocker tube tv over the drivers seat? Took me about 2 head knocks to rip that fucker out.
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Yup. Right over my noggin. We'll see how long it lasts. Manifold seems to be fine other than leaking from the lower seals/ hose fittings for the inlets. Got lucky and original owner drained everything when last parked.
 
Also, the ends on the airride valve actuator rods like to bind up and bend. Mine had a good lean from it. Had to replace all 3 rods.

The steering box's are not mounted all that well, I welded some extra tubes on mine to triangulate it. Made handling much, much better. It was kind of a wandering pig before that.

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arse_sidewards said:
Not to mention how quickly it will get dirty once it's white.

Nothing hands will touch has any business being white.
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Yeah, I let her do it in the house kitchen and I hate it. Worse yet, she hired it out and the contractor did an awful job. I just haven't broken down and redone it yet. Fuck white cabinets.
 
bdkw1 said:
Also, the ends on the airride valve actuator rods like to bind up and bend. Mine had a good lean from it. Had to replace all 3 rods.

The steering box's are not mounted all that well, I welded some extra tubes on mine to triangulate it. Made handling much, much better. It was kind of a wandering pig before that.

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Yeah, I'll definitely have to prep and lube those links, and check the steering box. I have time, still need to order a fass system and get away from just a mechanical lift pump. Talked to a guy the other day and he was claiming he was getting loaded and towing between 11.3 and 13 mpg on and average trip. What kind of mileage are you ringing out of yours?
 
Change your fuel filters, dose the fuel tank heavy with treatment and fill it up with fresh diesel and you'll be fine. Keep spare fuel filters on hand with a way to prime them on the road. I would use straight fuel treatment to prime the filters. I'm sure with sitting that long you have some things sticking. I would flush the trans fluid too and change the filters. Use good Allison fluid too. Nice score.
 
1Sinner said:
I have time, still need to order a fass system and get away from just a mechanical lift pump.
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I'm kinda becoming more and more of a fan of mechanical lift pumps as time goes on.
They're just less fragile and they don't got wires

A carter p4601hp is nice to keep around to get you off the side of the road, but if the stock one ain't fucked up, let it go for the next couple hundred thousand miles.
 
Mine gets 7ish if you beat on it, 8 if you stay near the speed limit. Previous owner claimed 10. Maybe if you cruised at 55 the whole time. I did have it up 95 chasing a semi across texas though. It was cool till I remembered it had 15 year old weather cracked tires.
 
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