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Welding to water pump

here are some more pics of that product.
 

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Good point...but what is the difference between the adapter and an actual bung being Tig welded to the radiator tank?
I can see if the AN hose was loaded up with tension......Anyway trying to give the guy some alternatives to Welding up a cast iron water pump.
Hope this helps someone out there......:beer:
 
Using a AN/JIC to pipe there is going to be a restriction aka a bottleneck or narrowing a AN to slip into the water pump and weld IMHO is a much better proposition.

Did anyone check jegs, summit, speedway motors.
 
Using a AN/JIC to pipe there is going to be a restriction aka a bottleneck or narrowing a AN to slip into the water pump and weld IMHO is a much better proposition.

Did anyone check jegs, summit, speedway motors.

the jic/npt fitting is same size inside and does not tapper down ect. rest of the cooling system is all the same size so only the water pump inlet (where the fitting its going) is larger
 
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Good point...but what is the difference between the adapter and an actual bung being Tig welded to the radiator tank?
A couple inches. If your hose routing is real good it shouldn't matter but in the real world all bets are off.
 
Using a AN/JIC to pipe there is going to be a restriction aka a bottleneck or narrowing a AN to slip into the water pump and weld IMHO is a much better proposition.

Did anyone check jegs, summit, speedway motors.
Ever heard of a thermostat?
 
Yeah I didn't run a thermostat on an old race truck and it wouldn't cool down because it had no restriction. so I installed a gutted thermostat plate on it and never had a problem after doing that and adding a bottleneck to the system
 
Yeah I didn't run a thermostat on an old race truck and it wouldn't cool down because it had no restriction. so I installed a gutted thermostat plate on it and never had a problem after doing that and adding a bottleneck to the system
That just makes no sense. Heat transfer DGAF how fast fluid is going. Gotta be weird shit going on with the pump and flow with no restriction.
 
That just makes no sense. Heat transfer DGAF how fast fluid is going. Gotta be weird shit going on with the pump and flow with no restriction.
As I understand it, it's because things can get hot enough around the cylinders and heads that the water will boil unless you have the additional back pressure created by the thermostat or restrictor plate to increase the pressure on the output side of the pump by restricting flow.

Aaron Z
 
As I understand it, it's because things can get hot enough around the cylinders and heads that the water will boil unless you have the additional back pressure created by the thermostat or restrictor plate to increase the pressure on the output side of the pump by restricting flow.

Aaron Z
The various engines that have reverse flow cooling don't seem to have much problem with it.

:confused:
 
Yeah I didn't run a thermostat on an old race truck and it wouldn't cool down because it had no restriction. so I installed a gutted thermostat plate on it and never had a problem after doing that and adding a bottleneck to the system
Idiots will argue but I agree.

I have had to put restrictors in multiple engines that the owners requested “no thermostat” for better cooling. GM and Ford varieties.

You can walk a mile on red hot coals barefoot without burning your feet but if you slow down or stop all of the heat gets transferred to you and burns.
 
You can walk a mile on red hot coals barefoot without burning your feet but if you slow down or stop all of the heat gets transferred to you and burns.
Try walking in circles and let us know how that goes. :laughing:
 
Do you guys want to see something not really related but kinda cool?
195° thermostat, standard waterpump '89 chevy 350.

Full flow through a 15' 1¼ hose

20210728_110258 (1).jpg

Dead head
20210728_110348 (1).jpg


The set up testing flow.
20210728_110242 (1).jpg
 
Do you guys want to see something not really related but kinda cool?
195° thermostat, standard waterpump '89 chevy 350.

Full flow through a 15' 1¼ hose


Dead head


The set up testing flow.

What is the take away here, I need some context...

Cooling systems under pressure are pretty important I think. Two things, raised the boiling point of the coolant and helps prevent cavitation erosion.

Water pumps can/do wear out from erosion of the volume housing.
 
What is the take away here, I need some context...

Cooling systems under pressure are pretty important I think. Two things, raised the boiling point of the coolant and helps prevent cavitation erosion.

Water pumps can/do wear out from erosion of the volume housing.
The truck was overheating after I installed the new long block, we were trying to make sure that something wasn't plugged and we were getting good flow, and I didn't install the wrong water pump.

:homer::homer::homer: I had the timing a little retarded :homer::homer::homer:


My understanding is that the radiator relif pressure determines the system pressure, 70s 80s 90s chevy trucks have 16psi caps; while our '58 ford has a 6 psi cap.
The thermostat or restrictor keeps water in the radiator longer so it can be cooled.

A engine that is "running cooler" is going to wear cylinders faster because of colder spots near the water jackets I assume...

I'm not afraid of engines running around 215°- 230°, our bbc tbi engines often do while pulling trailers.
 
My understanding is that the radiator relif pressure determines the system pressure, 70s 80s 90s chevy trucks have 16psi caps; while our '58 ford has a 6 psi cap.
Pressure is not constant throughout the whole system. You'll still have a pressure differential across the pump. It'll just be relative to system pressure rather than atmosphere.

Your cylinder head sealing situation is usually the limiting factor in theory since you can't put a lot of force on that connection (because whatever holds the combustion pressure is where the bulk of the force gets applied) so you just have to rely on a few thou of gasket crush and cross your fingers. In practice the rest of the cooling system is designed around whatever this pressure is so you'll start popping other random shit if you go above that pressure.

The thermostat or restrictor keeps water in the radiator longer so it can be cooled.
and keeps the water in the head longer so it can be heated more...

A engine that is "running cooler" is going to wear cylinders faster because of colder spots near the water jackets I assume...

I'm not afraid of engines running around 215°- 230°, our bbc tbi engines often do while pulling trailers.
Too cold, yes. But 160+ should be fine in the overwhelming majority of engines. I agree there's nothing to be afraid of north of 200 as long as you're comfortably below boiling temp
 
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