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Welding helmets

SARR

Asshole
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
292
Messages
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Question for the IBB fabricators. I currently have a Speedglass 9100X that I like well enough, but occasionally get flashed doing TIG. Have an opportunity to pick up a Lincoln Viking 3350 for under retail but have never used one. Don't want to spend the cash if it is a step down from the 3M.
I got the Speedglass a few months back moving from a Miller Digital Infinity. I did it because the Glass was lighter and my N95 filters fit under it better when doing galv fences for a friend's project.
Anyone used them both and have an opinion?

Thanks
 
I bought a 3350 for doing low amp precision tig work. Down to 35 amps pulsed.
I use it for everything else too and have no complaints. Mine was the plain one and was like $212with a coupon from IOC.
I would recommend it
 
Same here. I love mine.

Tried an Optrel Crystal and it's even badasser but the price is way high.

Only complain I have about the Lincoln is that it's heavy.
 
Same here. I love mine.

Tried an Optrel Crystal and it's even badasser but the price is way high.

Only complain I have about the Lincoln is that it's heavy.

I tried on a friends speed glass, don’t remember what model but it felt heavier. My Miller elite is the lightest one I have but I also used a fixed shade huntsman for a decade
 
gold film fixed shade with a rag over the back
fuckton of LED lights above where you're welding
fuck autodarkening helmets
 
Same here. I love mine.

Tried an Optrel Crystal and it's even badasser but the price is way high.

Only complain I have about the Lincoln is that it's heavy.


The Optrel's do kick ass. I have a Vegaview 2.5 and love it.
 
I also recently stopped using my 9100xxi Speedglas because it was flashing me while tig welding. Still great for stick and mig. The Lincoln hoods have always seemed ho-hum. I liked the one I had about 7 years ago, but it died way sooner than it should have...
I switched to an Optrel Crystal. I have an Optrel e684 that I got from my last job and absolutely love it. That's what I use in the garage now. Super light and amazing clarity. Blows away any other hood that I had used previously. That's what made me go with the Crystal at work. That thing is so good that it makes my e684 seem like it's broken or something. Next level for sure, but very spendy!
 
Are most of you using a separate helmet for TIG? Any lid good for all types? (MIG,TIG and stick) I'm new to TIG and so the flashing issue is new to me. Went to bed with a monster migraine last night from arc flash.
 
Are most of you using a separate helmet for TIG? Any lid good for all types? (MIG,TIG and stick) I'm new to TIG and so the flashing issue is new to me. Went to bed with a monster migraine last night from arc flash.

What are you using now? My Speedglass must be almost 10 years old now and I am surprised that they have not come out with something new.
 
What are you using now? My Speedglass must be almost 10 years old now and I am surprised that they have not come out with something new.

Speedglass 9100. Couple years old, I guess. I've pulled front cover off and used cloths and Q Tips to get the sensors clean. Does great MIG and Stick.
 
Are most of you using a separate helmet for TIG? Any lid good for all types? (MIG,TIG and stick) I'm new to TIG and so the flashing issue is new to me. Went to bed with a monster migraine last night from arc flash.

You should be able to use the same hood for everything. I used my old Miller big window Elite for every single weld in my shop and at home for around 13 years no problem. A long time ago I bought a HF $40 auto dark hood and it didn't work well with low amp tig, but I would expect everything else to be fine.

I really think my Speedglas flashing me is just some random fluke flaw. There are tons of people using these for low amp tig all day long and love them. Have you checked everything and ruled out other causes? Battery, cover lens, blocking sensors, sensitivity setting low enough?
 
You should be able to use the same hood for everything. I used my old Miller big window Elite for every single weld in my shop and at home for around 13 years no problem. A long time ago I bought a HF $40 auto dark hood and it didn't work well with low amp tig, but I would expect everything else to be fine.

I really think my Speedglas flashing me is just some random fluke flaw. There are tons of people using these for low amp tig all day long and love them. Have you checked everything and ruled out other causes? Battery, cover lens, blocking sensors, sensitivity setting low enough?

I'll keep working with the sensitivity to see what happens. I want to learn TIG to play with doing cages and go karts for a couple of the neighbor's kids.
 
Are most of you using a separate helmet for TIG? Any lid good for all types? (MIG,TIG and stick) I'm new to TIG and so the flashing issue is new to me. Went to bed with a monster migraine last night from arc flash.

I'm using a Miller Digital Elite for both MIG and TIG at home. Most of my TIG stuff is pretty low amperage too.

The wife got me a new one last year with the Clearlight lens and it is absolutely fantastic.
 
Are most of you using a separate helmet for TIG? Any lid good for all types? (MIG,TIG and stick) I'm new to TIG and so the flashing issue is new to me. Went to bed with a monster migraine last night from arc flash.

Yes. My Lincoln been used for every process. From 35 amps to 600
 
I'm using a Miller Digital Elite for both MIG and TIG at home. Most of my TIG stuff is pretty low amperage too.

The wife got me a new one last year with the Clearlight lens and it is absolutely fantastic.

I used my Lincoln at a job where the smallest weld was a 35 amp pulse tig joint. Never got flashed. They bought me a Miller digital elite(I think) and I used that from then on. Now my Lincoln is at work and my Miller at home, where it never gets used
 
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