Weight Distribution Shank Swaps

[kf4zht]

I never messed around with the weight distribution stuff, just setup trailers right so I have no experience. But my folks have a camper and my dad's been complaining about the rattle and bouncing. It came with a Equal-i-zer brand WD setup, 2" shank. His F250 has a 2.5 hitch. Seems that the compounding of having 2 things that don't fit is just going to make it worse and he isn't very good at the "fuck it" mentality

Looked up and when you can find that brands 2.5 shanks they are quite spendy. Curt has one that is better and appears more solid https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-17131-Distribution-Replacement/dp/B07GBFW1N1

But - Are these compatible between brands?
Is there a better way to cut the rattle and shifting without the swap (That might help other drawbars also?)

He doesn't need the 2.5 for the weight capacity

 

[OHV Wildcat]

Some of those forged tow bars are so non-square that even eliminating the adapter sleeve doesn't really end up in a tighter fit. That's not at all specific to WD shanks, so take it for what it's worth.

Booger weld the adapter sleeve onto the existing shank! I mean, if the welds fail, well, no harm no foul. If not, you get a reasonable fit for free?


Edit--when the welds fail. WD puts some different load cases on this stuff than the regular tow bars.

 

[CarterKraft]

Weld the sleeve on the shank is a solution.

I shimmed my 2.5-3" sleeve on my 2.5" curt shank then welded the front of the shank bar to the sleeve.
Only welded the sides and only on the front, no welds on the rear of the sleeve to create stress riser in the HAZ on the shank.
If I need to undo it I can just saw the whole thing off at the welds then it will separate no harm done to the expensive shank.

The best solution is the new correct sized shank. They are "industry standard" for that WD hitch.