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Wearing out annular cutters quick

fordguy

blah.
Joined
Nov 24, 2022
Member Number
5787
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285
Got a Hogden mag drill to cut bunch of holes in a big truck frame (freightliner 2012) probably 5/16 thick. Holes are 11/16

Used some oil, and wore one out after about 8 holes later. Ok, got a replacement, along with Hogden wax lube, and continued on. Every 1/8 I would back off, spray, and go another 1/8. About 8-9 holes later, its dead again.

Cant control speed on the mag drill, but this is a $$ setup so they probably did that right.

I dropped off both bits for sharpening and will get a third, but what is the issue? Heat treated frame and this will keep happening and I just need to have a couple bits to cycle through?

There is a lube kit and bottle but I havent set that up yet, but considering now.
 
Truck frames are fancy pants hard but flexible steel. Not quite spring steel but well on the way there.

Not surprising you're wearing shit out quicker than normal.
 
Drill a small pilot hole and use a bridge reamer.
Use lots of lube and hang the fuck on to your drill (and don't push too hard, they cut on the side and have tons of force because they're wedge shaped). Works great on double and triple frames.

Your welcome.

71LNWsa5-gL._SL1500_.jpg



and use it with a drill that looks like this one:

DS4012_large__12810.jpg
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Drill a small pilot hole and use a bridge reamer.
Use lots of lube and hang the fuck on to your drill (and don't push too hard, they cut on the side and have tons of force because they're wedge shaped). Works great on double and triple frames.

Your welcome.

71LNWsa5-gL._SL1500_.jpg



and use it with a drill that looks like this one:

DS4012_large__12810.jpg
Click to expand...

oh hell no. its mag drill or no drill. This sucker was 1500 to the door and is perfect for perfectly straight holes. Drilling by hand, Ill probably end up all crooked and shit. Plus drilling pilot holes will kill drill bits just as easily, no?

Carbide was on my list next
 
fordguy said:
Got a Hogden mag drill to cut bunch of holes in a big truck frame (freightliner 2012) probably 5/16 thick. Holes are 11/16

Used some oil, and wore one out after about 8 holes later. Ok, got a replacement, along with Hogden wax lube, and continued on. Every 1/8 I would back off, spray, and go another 1/8. About 8-9 holes later, its dead again.

Cant control speed on the mag drill, but this is a $$ setup so they probably did that right.

I dropped off both bits for sharpening and will get a third, but what is the issue? Heat treated frame and this will keep happening and I just need to have a couple bits to cycle through?

There is a lube kit and bottle but I havent set that up yet, but considering now.
Click to expand...
How much pressure are you using? Those things like to be leaned on
 
Doubt I would be lifting at all on something as thin as a frame. Lube it up, lean on it till you hear the motor start to work and then do it again.

HSS or carbide?
 
ok new copperhead bit is in my hands, I love the local tool store, they have everything.
 
Put more pressure on the mag drill handle. Should take less then 20 seconda to puch through the frame. You want curly q shavings stringoff or your not pushing hard enough.

You can put a new edge on them with a little practice and a cutoff wheel on a grinder to get between the teeth and do a little sanding.

For 5/16 you shouldnt need to re apply lube except for between holes.
 
fordguy said:
Cant control speed on the mag drill, but this is a $$ setup so they probably did that right.
Click to expand...

Not really. Should it be the same speed for a 1/2" as it is for a 2.5" hole? Without variable speed they had to pick a speed that is ok for all sizes but probably only perfect for one....which is probably not the one you're cutting.


I bought a cheap-ish evolution recently and was a little disappointed to find it was only single speed.
 
bdkw1 said:
5/16 frame may not be thick enough to get the full force of the magnet. Sometimes you need to throw another piece of steel on the back side so you can really bear down on it.
Click to expand...
True. I’ve cut holes in purlins that way.
 
My local truck shop has a huge drill on wheels that you chain to the frame so you can use a handle to feed it in.
 
2big bronco said:
For 5/16 you shouldnt need to re apply lube except for between holes.
Click to expand...

hmm if I dont, I hear the metal on metal squeaking noisr towards the end. I am drillibg sideways, so the lube drips down and comes out with the shavings and is dry again

Carbide bit cuts like butter, will see about the life.
 
Gbkeith said:
Put your purse down so you can use both hands to mash on it.
Click to expand...

How is drilling force an issue? I get nice curly shavings. After bit goes dull, if I apply any more force, I see the magnet start lifting.

I suppose I could ask a frame shop that did our previous trucks the method they use.
 
fordguy said:
How is drilling force an issue? I get nice curly shavings. After bit goes dull, if I apply any more force, I see the magnet start lifting.

I suppose I could ask a frame shop that did our previous trucks the method they use.
Click to expand...
779A6CA3-C146-453B-AFD1-FED6C6D0C222.png

From Hougen.com. The purse thing is what I was told when I was young and got put on a mag drill. With enough pressure it cuts through, without enough pressure you’re just rubbing metal together. Like bdkw1 said, if the magnet is lifting put a chunk of plate on the other side of the frame for the it to get ahold of.
 
Gbkeith said:
779A6CA3-C146-453B-AFD1-FED6C6D0C222.png

From Hougen.com. The purse thing is what I was told when I was young and got put on a mag drill. With enough pressure it cuts through, without enough pressure you’re just rubbing metal together. Like bdkw1 said, if the magnet is lifting put a chunk of plate on the other side of the frame for the it to get ahold of.
Click to expand...


WOW thanks. Didnt even know they had text to read through. I get nice chips, but after the first bit wore.
 
Blue Chips = Big Problems ?

Weird. I was taught that blue 9-shaped chips were what you were looking for. This means most of the heat is leaving with the chips. Also, the long stringy chips meant not enough feed rate.
Must be an annular cutter thing. Never used one myself.
 
Eric642 said:
Blue Chips = Big Problems ?

Weird. I was taught that blue 9-shaped chips were what you were looking for. This means most of the heat is leaving with the chips. Also, the long stringy chips meant not enough feed rate.
Must be an annular cutter thing. Never used one myself.
Click to expand...

Depends on what your doing, face milling with carbide inserts yes. Drill holes with HSS, no.

Face milling you have like 75% overlap on your passes so that the inserts come out of the work 60% of the time to shed heat.

When your drilling you need to peck to let the cutting edges cool or it will melt down. Even with coolant. Exception being through tool high pressure coolant. Then it's hammer down no stopping.
 
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