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WC53 Carryall Restomod - Cummins ISB170, Allison, ORI Struts

More work on the exhaust shield. Got the thing mounted. I needed an M10-1.5 to, well, anything really as a stud bolt for the heat shield bracket where it was mounting to the PTO. I wanted it to stand off from the cover to allow for sliding adjustment, install fitment, and also creating an air gap to not transfer too much heat from the shield bracket into the side of the transmission (over thinking as usual). Anyways, McMaster wanted like $9 ea for their cheapest anything. I could have machined some from hex bar but honestly by still not having my small lathe up and running (needs alignment and some tooling) I decided to just booger weld some up. A 5/16" socket cap screw fit perfectly inside the flange head of the M10.





I also finally received some hardware that USPS lost for 3 whole weeks.

Since I'll be leaving the interior metal exposed and not be running carpet, I decided I wanted to match the countersunk rivet look with some screws too. I was called a masochist for chosing this method, but I do believe that this entire truck is an example of my own self hate.





More work on this dumb old thing.

The soft top channel wasn't big enough to fit the new thicker top through it so I machined a little soft steel bullet and use the air chisel to drive it through to open it up from .375 to .415 and that was just enough clearance for the new top to slip in and it stays just fine it appears.


Pulled the kick panels and am going to clean those up and install some sound deadening on the back of them.


Started to sound deaden the transmission cover. The stuff is rated to 450 deg F steady heat and there are other locations where it is on the truck already, and has been for 10 years, exposed to exhaust heat and it is perfectly fine. I ran out as I did the access door. I will remove that and it gets a gasket as well just to keep air from pushing through.


Then the foil..


And I think I am going to attach this piece of Jute to it also. The amount of noise and heat that comes through the transmission cover as it was, was just really impressive. Also didn't help I had a million open holes from other "ideas" along the way.

Theres no kill quite like overkill.

Im waiting on some "corner" type nut plates that are stuck in USPS, with a number of other things. I can then finish installing the floors.
I have a small trip coming up with the thing and before that I want to:

Paint the seat frames
Build relocation adapters for the rear seats to move them around some
Clean up and thermal wrap / loom some wiring under the truck.
^wire up the cruise control and air tank gauge in the center console during this task.
Adjust the caster and reset my toe
Build some sort of roof rack thing
Get the driver's window winder working right.


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More tinkering. Pulled the seat cushions off and started to get the frames cleaned up and painted. Been clear coating the floor sections and getting all that put back together too.





Also had some holes a little too close to the edge and one that was in a weird radius change so I snagged some of these corner clip nut plates to use where the floor panels affix to the existing truck sheet metal. Nifty little buggers.

Had an old friend from my Jeep building days come up and visit for the afternoon; he was a local college kid when I was at my old place rolling out projects and was helping him with building up a TJ, that has evolved into essentially an Ultra 4 chassis now that he's graduated and making adult money as an Engineer. He helped me a ton today when it came to the testing and production work on making these brackets below. He said he lurks here but doesn't post much.

The past few days I have been daydreaming about how to build a simple roof rack for this truck so that I can throw my canoe on it, and also I have some surfboards that my nephews use when we are at the beach. I had this stick of 1.75" Stainless Schedule 40 laying around for a few years now and decided it would work for this. The brackets are 16 ga cold roll mild steel sheet. I still need to finish drilling and installing the Rivet-nuts into the tubes, bend the feet on the other 5 brackets, and I also want to machine and weld some end caps onto the tubes. I figure a threaded insert cap thing that will allow me to bolt other brackets, rails, tie downs, etc to the rack would be useful. There will be 3 individual rails on the roof.This also allows me to put stuff on the roof without it tearing up the soft top or preventing me from installing or removing the soft top.



Floors are clear coated and going back in.


Soft top is on, after trying to find the right size footman loops to fit the thicker webbing but have the right existing screw hole spacing that was already drilled into the truck.


Recharged the ORI struts up front, dialed the caster angle back some and re-set the toe. I was getting the beginnings of a DW type shake last time I had it at the beach and was running around with sub 20 psi tire pressure on the pavement between the ORV beach access points. The quick fix then was to spin the tow way out, and it did in fact stop the issue, however I never dialed it back. You can see one of the roof rack beams on the back. Finished building those and laying them out for where I want to mount them to the truck. I have an oil pan gasket leak and have had a replacement gasket for it for while, just haven't gotten around to dropping the pan. That might get done this week too.

what did you use for shock towers?

Made some out of mild steel, I think it was just dumb old A36 because it was what I had at the time. They bolt to the frame to reduce chance of a fatigue failure from a welded on bracket. The more I worked with the factory frame on this thing the more I found it was harder in some areas and not in others so there is nothing welded to the frame other than the boxing plates themselves; everything else bolts on or was hot riveted back in place.
Go back a few pages and there is a post where the truck is hanging on a lift and you can see the brackets there.

Did some more work on this thing today. Seats got reassembled but I still need to make backing plates for the front passenger's seat and the two back seats. I can't build up the guts to pull the trigger on buying the piece of CR sheet I need to use.





Decided to put the back seat in facing rearwards for a bit; more room to put a cooler or something when the truck is empty. And if there's that many people that need to ride, others can open the gate to let them in and out. I'll mess with mounting the seats longways at some other point.


Went for a spin with it between the rain and the sound deadening work was totally worth it. Almost concerning how much quieter it was; like it felt like something was maybe wrong. Got the roof rack brackets laid out and some Rivet-nuts set into the roof. Pulled it all back apart and numbered the parts so that I can clean everything up, coat it, and reinstall it all. Due to the hump in the roof and all 6 brackets being the same, all I had to do was find the center of the high spot and then moved the front and rear bracket sets inboard on their mounts one set of screw holes and then spaced it all out to where everything is flat across the top.


Still some more things to tinker with but its mobile again. It did give me a good scare when I went to start it back up this afternoon; but it definitely requires all of the major connectors to be fully seated in order to run... big dummy.
Looking good. I remember when Lee was building it the first go around and then it got wrecked. It's amazing to see what you've done with it.
Truck sat with the batteries unhooked from March until this past week.
Hooked them up and they had a little left in em but not much. Charged them overnight on Saturday night. They seemed happy yesterday starting the truck. Unhooked them for the day today, then this evening, hooked them up, drove the truck 15 miles one way, started it a few times and then got home edge of dark and noticed the headlights looked a little dim. Let it idle for a bit in the shop while checking temps of the transmission, diffs, tires, etc.

It sat for 20 minutes and I went back to start it and just a Clunk... and starter stopped barely engaged. I pulled the terminals loose and cleaned everything up, put the load tester on each battery and it is just reading "low" but the load test says it just needs to be charged. Putting it on the battery charger and it is saying its charged... Putting the voltmeter on it and holding it I can watch it tick down though...

What causes a battery to just decide, "now is the time to just say fuck it"?
Over/under voltage charging, if lead acid, low fluid maybe, or perhaps they just aged out. It happens.
I happily pay the extra to run AGMs in my old iron as they don't leak and rust out battery trays.
So yep, I pulled these and my nice pretty battery tray was already starting to show some signs of decay and a small spot of rust and the powder coat peeling.

Yeah, I hate lead acids now a days. AGMs in all the things.

Ya'll convinced me but FUCK $$$... They aren't even anything super fancy either.



Seat frames look good. Quite the family hauler:)

Yea, back before I went and got all limpy gimpy and did a lot of surfing, this was intended as my Surf Wagon beach buggy. Life is what happens while we make other plans.
Hoping my nephews show some interest in surfing and I can still use it some for the intended purpose.