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Useless things about your day!

Termites in the yard..
 

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harris tips and mixers are separate pieces. if you want a few of them you just need a few tips, where on the victor stuff you need the whole bottom half of the shit with the nut and all for every tip
the cutting tips have iirc either a tapered seat that's fairly okay (but tougher to fix when it gets damaged) or a terrible gasketed seat that takes graphite gland packing shit
the harris one is just a flat seat that's eas to fix when it gets fucked up, and they seem to be a lot easier to come by
 
When you have a lot of pipe fittings and machine tools but no drill press.
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That is awesome
I agree, It's for sale for $100 and if I needed more shop art I would go get it.
I got one similar but I think better with a motor too for 15 bucks at a junk store.

I like to see stuff where someone wasted more effort for something kinda dumb then even I do.
On closer look green one probably works better, but this one is more artistic

:flipoff2:
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More of a lathe than drill press
 
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On closer look green one probably works better, but this one is more artistic
More of a lathe than drill press
"post drill"
ye olde blacke smithe shit

ETA: "chuck" on that one might only take 1/2" shank drills, the origin of silver and deming drills.
lot cheaper to make a 1/2" socket with a setscrew than to make a centering three jaw chuck
 
"post drill"
ye olde blacke smithe shit

ETA: "chuck" on that one might only take 1/2" shank drills, the origin of silver and deming drills.
lot cheaper to make a 1/2" socket with a setscrew than to make a centering three jaw chuck
This made me think of one of my favorite random legacy bits from when our plant had a machine shop. None of our drill presses have chucks. All of the bits we use for drill presses are Morse tapers for some reason.
 
I like taper shanks because they don't really slip (unless you don't jam them in hard enough and they shear the tang)
I dislike taper shanks because they don't really slip (the bit shatters instead)

if I had my crap transferred over to my new computer I'd post a pic of one in my hand, but it ain't, so I can't, so I won't.
 
Can't short chuck taper shanks for dumb shit.

Can't grind flats on them for non-slip in shitty chucks.

I can count on closed hand where I ran out of table adjustment on a full size drill press.

Also I'm not worried about an MT slipping other than maybe falling out.

Almost forgot, without a chuck I also gain 4 inches of clearance
 
I can count on closed hand where I ran out of table adjustment on a full size drill press.
It's not the Z travel that gets you. It's the chuck, quill or spindle (listed in order of frequency IMO) hitting some other feature on the part.

Being able to grind small flats lets you use your big drill bits in your hand drills with shitty chucks. Just don't grind them so long that aa collet or good chuck has nowhere to grab.
 
It's not the Z travel that gets you. It's the chuck, quill or spindle (listed in order of frequency IMO) hitting some other feature on the part.

Being able to grind small flats lets you use your big drill bits in your hand drills with shitty chucks. Just don't grind them so long that aa collet or good chuck has nowhere to grab.

I'm still missing why I would rather use a chuck and a drill over a MT spindle. Other than cost and they aren't something I can buy at the hardware store there isn't really a downside.

On the hand drill side since this is at work it's actually an advantage that they don't go in hand drills. They never get borrowed and not returned and it really cuts down on the got destroyed and put back in the index.
 
Dumb question. Whats the best way to install this stuff? Overlap 1 or 2 rises? Silicone the edges so wind don't get to it? Using the self tapper screws with rubber washers for fastening.

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Dumb question. Whats the best way to install this stuff? Overlap 1 or 2 rises? Silicone the edges so wind don't get to it? Using the self tapper screws with rubber washers for fastening.

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I used it on the greenhouse I built for GF. I overlapped 2 ridges and ran those rubber washer metal roofing screws through the low spot closest to the overlap about 18 inches apart. It's been 3 years of all weather and pretty high wind at times and they are still going strong, well except where a big chunk of tree smashed through one.
 
RIP Boris

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:frown:

Friend's dog, Abbie, is getting put down Monday. Has a tumor that I guess spread to cancer. Went from normal dog to

Only dog I've been around that could wear out my 6yr old vizsla and she's 10.
I have my firewood stuff at his place
half the time I go just so the dogs can wear each other out. My dog will start whining and going nuts when I'm like 3-4 miles away, somehow can tell. They run all over at Mach 6 for hours at a time.

Shitty pic from ~2 weeks ago, Forest climbed up on the processor seat for whatever reason and mostly took it cause if that. Abbie just happened to be in frame too.

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Dumb question. Whats the best way to install this stuff? Overlap 1 or 2 rises? Silicone the edges so wind don't get to it? Using the self tapper screws with rubber washers for fastening.
you wanna run a bead of silicone (or urethane) under the overlaps because they generally don't got the anti-siphon feature rolled into them
when the wind's blowing across the overlap it can blow the water up and over the rib
eta: screw atop rib, ofc
 
"post drill"
ye olde blacke smithe shit

ETA: "chuck" on that one might only take 1/2" shank drills, the origin of silver and deming drills.
lot cheaper to make a 1/2" socket with a setscrew than to make a centering three jaw chuck
Looked at a few on ebay, feeling even better about buying it now. Guess I'll get it out of the weather.:homer:
 
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