What's new

Upcoming trip - Glacier and Yellowstone

spaceman

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Member Number
1721
Messages
94
Headed to Glacier next week as part of an 8-day motorcycle trip that includes stops in Glacier National Park and Yellowstone.


The route from Denver is all planned out. First night in Cody - long day, but we should be in early enough to catch the rodeo. The next morning, we plan on spending a couple of hours at the Cody Firearms Museum, then take off to Red Lodge, over Beartooth Pass and on to Helena.

From there, on to Glacier, with plans to camp in St. Mary on June 21 and Fish Creek Campground on 6/22. I know it is early in the season, and they are still working on Going to the Sun Road, but we are hopeful that the road will be open. If not, we will figure out how to get around and see things using State Highway 2 on the southern side.

On the 23rd, we travel down to Yellowstone, camp two nights at the Canyon Campground, then head south to Vernal, UT for the final night. We'll spend time in Dinosaur Natl Monument the next day before making the final slog back to Denver.

Would be interested in hearing from anybody on here that is in the Glacier area about weather and road conditions!!! Right now, the extended weather forecast looks like very favorable weather for the trip :grinpimp:
 
We were just up there mid may and spent a week in Columbia Falls. If the Going to the Sun road is closed, theres not much else in the park for roads. If you want to avoid the fee at the West entrance, theres a mostly paved road that leaves the north side of columbia falls that takes you into Glacier so you can see Lake McDonald? (the super clear lake with cool colored rocks). Since the road was closed for us, we cruised dirt roads on the west side of glacier and adjoining NF for the day. It was cool but uneventful. Another day, we took the hwy up to the East Entrance (which was still closed). This is way higher elevation, and perfect grizzly/ moose habitat. We took some forest dirt roads around and down to a riverbed and started hiking around. Within 100yds of the truck, we found fresh grizzly tracks that were bigger than my sz11 shoes. Id explore more up there and then just pull over wherever you want on the river on the way down. It was dead when we were there and sometimes we wouldnt see another car for hours, but now that kids are getting out of school, Im not sure how it will be.

Roads were nice- not pot-holed out. Dirt road sections were even pretty good. We had great weather for May (50's up to low 70's). Only rained one day, although every day you could see it snowing up on the high elevations. As with yellowstone, I always say the cool shit doesnt stop at the park boundary. Tons to explore on NF land surrounding both areas. Theres a huge dam that was fun to check out outside west side of Glacier- only a 5-10min detour.

Gunsight saloon has good food and drinks.
 
Last edited:
Going to the sun requires tickets in advance now thanks to all you fawking tourists :flipoff2:
I think you can take a bus though, or tour.

A cruise around Flathead lake is nice. ST Mary can be a windy bitch. Browning is awesome, especially at night :eek: since it’s the hub of the Blackfoot rez. Hwy 2 runs on the South Park border and is a nice drive. If you have road bikes I would stay on pavement, one day of no rain and it gets super dusty. A couple of good breweries in Columbia falls, Bigfork, and lakeside on the west side. Not much on the the East side but the rez. Don’t screw around with fuel, top off when in a town.

I’m about 30 miles West of the park.
 
The next morning, we plan on spending a couple of hours at the Cody Firearms Museum, then take off to Red Lodge, over Beartooth Pass and on to Helena.
When you leave Cody DO NOT MISS OUT on the 296.

Take it up to Beartooth, then drop down into Red Lodge for lunch/dinner. Then backtrack back over beartooth on your way to Helena.

I don't care if you lose half a day. the 296 is worth it. I was given this advice last year on our Yellowstone trip and it is spot on.

1623432179913.png
 
I dont know the weather around Glacier that well but when traveling through Wyoming be prepared for hail at any elevation, even on a supposedly nice day.

There is no for sure route to Cody where this can be avoided either.
West of Casper on 20 is a prime spot as you get close to Shoshoni and over the Bighorns on 14 is the same.

Have fun
 
I dont know the weather around Glacier that well but when traveling through Wyoming be prepared for hail at any elevation, even on a supposedly nice day.

There is no for sure route to Cody where this can be avoided either.
West of Casper on 20 is a prime spot as you get close to Shoshoni and over the Bighorns on 14 is the same.

Have fun
And wind. Damn that wind.

probably 100+ miles of gnarly constant crosswind.

This pic doesnt capture it but i swear Dad was riding a lot more leaned over, going in a staight line, for half the day.
1623434301180.png
 
If you drop into Cut Bank, say hello to most of my extended family for me.

Both are beautiful parks. Two of my favorites. I like to stay in Gardiner for the night when on the North side of Yellowstone. Dad told me Gardiner had a "big fire downtown", so I'm not sure what is left. Great little town on the Yellowstone river last I was there.
 
A square block of buildings burnt last year. If that is the fire your dad is talking about?
 
You aren't giving yourself enough time for the museum in Cody.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IGT
And wind. Damn that wind.

probably 100+ miles of gnarly constant crosswind.

This pic doesnt capture it but i swear Dad was riding a lot more leaned over, going in a staight line, for half the day.
:lmao:

The OP is going to Vernal after Yellowstone.
191 South of Rock Springs is probably the worst two lane road for bad weather in the lower 48. Thank God they have summer on their side.
Great scenery but I always have a full tank of gas and a extra can of Beanie Weanies on that road.
 
When you leave Cody DO NOT MISS OUT on the 296.

Take it up to Beartooth, then drop down into Red Lodge for lunch/dinner. Then backtrack back over beartooth on your way to Helena.

I don't care if you lose half a day. the 296 is worth it. I was given this advice last year on our Yellowstone trip and it is spot on.

Argggh. I originally had that planned into the ride - leave Cody, go up 296, ride to the north end of Beartooth, then turn around and ride back over Beartooth to Cooke City, then on to Gardiner, Bozeman and finally into Helena. No need to go into Re Lodge except lunch - we can pack bars and snacks instead :cool2:

Changed the routing when I thought that would take too long, plus was worried about the Buell Ulysses in the group needing to gas up at some point. Looking at it again, I'll put the original route back in. The Buell should make it from Cody, to the north side of Beartooth and back to Silver City before he runs out...

What should we expect in the way of traffic on 296 and Beartooth? Will we be able to make decent time, or stuck behind motorhomes going 25MPH?

Here is what the revised looks like now. Icons represent places of interest for stops (waterfalls, etc.) or gas.
1623438087542.png


We could also plan on going over Beartooth to Red Lodge, then continuing up 212 to 78 to I-90, but I'd really like to avoid highway travel as much as possible. At least we have some options
 
Last edited:
Going to the sun requires tickets in advance now thanks to all you fawking tourists :flipoff2:
I think you can take a bus though, or tour.

A cruise around Flathead lake is nice. ST Mary can be a windy bitch. Browning is awesome, especially at night :eek: since it’s the hub of the Blackfoot rez. Hwy 2 runs on the South Park border and is a nice drive. If you have road bikes I would stay on pavement, one day of no rain and it gets super dusty. A couple of good breweries in Columbia falls, Bigfork, and lakeside on the west side. Not much on the the East side but the rez. Don’t screw around with fuel, top off when in a town.

I’m about 30 miles West of the park.
Good info.!

For tickets - I have that sorted out. Was online at 8am the day they started reservations and snagged two. They were all snatched up within about 12 minutes. I also reserved a campsite for the first night in the park, that should also get us in, but I wasn't sure how they treat multiple bikes with only one Campsite. We should be covered either way.

We have road bikes. You can see from my Avatar that I no longer like to ride off the pavement...

We are planning on taking 83 out of Kalispell to Deerlodge - is that an acceptable option?

We have a pretty good idea of the ranges of our tanks. My Versys 1000 and my buddy's Multistrada both get about 220 - 260 miles or more, depending on how spirited the riding is. The Buell Ulysses, on the other hand, might make it to 170 or 180 miles. The low fuel light may or may not come on like it is supposed to. So we are ALWAYS looking for a place to stop and fuel up!!!
 
And wind. Damn that wind.

probably 100+ miles of gnarly constant crosswind.
On our trip through Utah last year, we had a full day of 30+ MPH winds, with 40MPH+ gusts. That sh!t sucks the life out of you!
 
Its been years, since i travelled the chief joseph bypass (296) but it was it was good traveling and speed.
The speed limit on the beartooth was 70, but i think they have changed it. If you go into red lodge, stay away from the carbon hill steak house, it is pricey.
You will probably stop and check out the views on the beartooths. There is a good chance there is still snow on the top.
 
wont have any traffic problems on 296 and its 100mph peg grinding road. :D

beartooth i would plan on def being stuck behind an rv.
 
:lmao:

The OP is going to Vernal after Yellowstone.
191 South of Rock Springs is probably the worst two lane road for bad weather in the lower 48.
Can't think of another way to get into Dinosaur National Monument! It is our last night - we could opt to head through Lander, WY and end up in Rawlins. :shaking: we'll see how the first 7 days goes, then plan the last day accordingly.
 
Good info.!

For tickets - I have that sorted out. Was online at 8am the day they started reservations and snagged two. They were all snatched up within about 12 minutes. I also reserved a campsite for the first night in the park, that should also get us in, but I wasn't sure how they treat multiple bikes with only one Campsite. We should be covered either way.

We have road bikes. You can see from my Avatar that I no longer like to ride off the pavement...

We are planning on taking 83 out of Kalispell to Deerlodge - is that an acceptable option?

We have a pretty good idea of the ranges of our tanks. My Versys 1000 and my buddy's Multistrada both get about 220 - 260 miles or more, depending on how spirited the riding is. The Buell Ulysses, on the other hand, might make it to 170 or 180 miles. The low fuel light may or may not come on like it is supposed to. So we are ALWAYS looking for a place to stop and fuel up!!!

multiple bikes in one camp isn’t a problem, just tell the ranger you’re a gay family :flipoff2:

83 is good road, but mega shitton of deer and elk and a few bears, not the place to ride like a douche. It runs on the east shore of Flathead lake, pretty curvy and a long ride to a hospital. Many lakes is just north of ST Mary and worth a stop, if you hike into iceberg lake take bear spray because you will run into bears. Don’t speed in the park, they are serious about speed limits. Outside the park no one cares. Under 100 MPH on MT highways is $20 payable on the spot

We also get lots of thunderstorms, don’t be up n the pass when those hit, I’ve been stuck scree slides that wasn’t fun and would really suck on a bike. Be prepared for freezing to 90 degrees. Snow in June is pretty common, but so is 90 degrees. If there is a powwow going on in the rez, they shut down all beer and liquor sales on the east side aside fro park restaurants.:eek:
 
Can't think of another way to get into Dinosaur National Monument! It is our last night - we could opt to head through Lander, WY and end up in Rawlins. :shaking: we'll see how the first 7 days goes, then plan the last day accordingly.
I wouldn’t change it, once you get to Dutch John the scenery is worth the windy part.

Hope you keep this thread going as you travel with pictures.

You could get behind slow traffic on the route Sceep is suggesting to Redlodge but the views is worth the slow down.
Last time I went that route I got behind a female Harley rider that was scared to go over 20. Once she got into the mosquitos on top she sped up because they were swarming her.

Good place to see Grizzlies is South of Redlodge coming down off the mountain when you get out of the switchbacks around the river.
 
Avoid Browning. There is absolutely nothing worth seeing on that side of the park, especially not once you count running over or getting eaten by stray dogs. Not to mention the tribal police there have a habit of "cash only" tickets without a receipt.


Rest of the west part of the state is badass. My buddy was a big fan of the roads up by Libby and around the river.
 
The trip starts today. Looks like weather tomorrow on Beartooth pass could be kind of crappy, forecast calls for a high of 37 with rain. Otherwise, weather for the trip looks really darn good.

IMG_20210619_070745321_HDR~2.jpg
 
I used to live by Red Lodge. Been on Beartooth many times. Yes, there will be snow up there. Also, with snow, LOTS of mosquitoes. Take 296 to Cook City, get a bite to eat, then head to the pass.
 
If you can some how fit it in, I'd run up to Clark and run up 292 as far as you can. The Clarks Fork Canyon is amazing. It does get a bit rough but should be able to go in a ways with the bikes.

vrVCDZ9ani2tqs5iDp212ehg=w2103-h1577-no?authuser=0.jpg


qI27oMI-YyTye5ys3givtcPg=w2103-h1577-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
It's supposed to hot next week pretty much all over MT. Glacier if a goat rope, every open restaurant is packed pretty much all day.
 
If Glacier is closed take the highway up to Eureka and then down along Lake Koocanusa, either side, to Libby and back to Kalispell. Just watch out for deer and turkeys along with the odd moose.
 
There's a lookout near up on the beartooth that's a short gravel road and walk up to. Definitely worth the walk.

Have a safe ride.
20140926_153449.jpg




20140926_153531.jpg


20140926_153629.jpg
 
The first day was relatively uneventful. Lots of miles and lots of wind. Headwinds were bad enough between Laramie and Casper that I only averaged 32.6 MPG (usual is around 43 MPG). The weather stayed pretty cool until we got to Casper, from there, it was upper 80s and low 90s.

Windy in Casper:
IMG_20210619_122225571.jpg


The only exciting stop along the way was 'Hell's Half Acre' (actually 320 acres).

IMG_20210619_140634977.jpg


I did have a bit of an issue with my fuel tank. With temps in the 90s and the bike running at 200° for long stretches, when we stopped for gas in Thermopolis, I opened the tank cap and a nice geyser of gas flew 10 feet in the air, and some of it managed to land on my buddy and his Ducati. Oops.

We rode the last 90 miles to Cody (with the cap on loosely), unpacked the bikes, then took off some fairing pieces and lifted the tank. Found that the shop that did my valve adjustment in the spring put the vent tube on wrong and it was pinched.

After that, we walked across the street to the rodeo for dinner and a show.

IMG_20210619_193318540.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: IGT
I used to live by Red Lodge. Been on Beartooth many times. Yes, there will be snow up there. Also, with snow, LOTS of mosquitoes. Take 296 to Cook City, get a bite to eat, then head to the pass.
That would be my plan. We were up there a few years ago in Aug. and it was 42* up top with 45mph winds. BRRR!!!!!!!
The Beartooth Cafe has good food.
 
Top Back Refresh