What's new

U4 4900 RZR build

photo27613.jpg
photo27614.jpg
photo27615.jpg
Ran into a bit of a snag on the steering rack. Trying to order. I want to replace broken parts with bad ass aftermarket parts and the 18 to current machines aren’t currently supported by bad ass aftermarket racks. I’m still hung up on that part currently, hoping to have a solution for that in the next couple days.

In the meantime I needed to get something done so I addressed the smashed in rear of it. Got tail ended by the winner at Moab when I ended up in the way. It cratered everything plastic from the Chassis back. I wanted to do a bed delete this winter anyway so for a test drive of that I cut it all off. Had to make a new chassis side latch for the spare tire carrier. Doesn’t look like much but took a half a day to back half it.
 
That’s what I want more than anything!!! Got a problem though. The whole front of my car has been converted to Turbo S stuff from regular ol XP/T. The big hang up is the diff swap. No one can tell me if that big rack will fit in it’s space which the differential also now occupies. I had to grind on the factory steering rack to fit the big diff. I don’t want to pay for $1000 dollar rack, have to grind on it making it non returnable, and then finding out it doesn’t fit.
 
That’s what I want more than anything!!! Got a problem though. The whole front of my car has been converted to Turbo S stuff from regular ol XP/T. The big hang up is the diff swap. No one can tell me if that big rack will fit in it’s space which the differential also now occupies. I had to grind on the factory steering rack to fit the big diff. I don’t want to pay for $1000 dollar rack, have to grind on it making it non returnable, and then finding out it doesn’t fit.

Make it fit. If you have to raise the mounting point on the chassis to do so, moving the outer tie rods the same distance will eliminate the bump steer. Easy peasy....

Hurry up so I can see this think in OK in a few weeks.

:flipoff2:
 
Make it fit. If you have to raise the mounting point on the chassis to do so, moving the outer tie rods the same distance will eliminate the bump steer. Easy peasy....

Hurry up so I can see this think in OK in a few weeks.

:flipoff2:

Got it solved for now. I hate learning stuff the hard way. Sooooo. 18 to current Polaris machines aren’t currently supported by the aftermarket with a direct replacement steering rack. However it’s a simple fix, 2015 to 2017 steering racks bolt right in with the use of the steering column intermediate shaft also from a 2015 to 2017. I cut my shaft in half and extended it with a sleeve while waiting to find for sure that there is a bolt in solution. I’ll have it in Oklahoma for round 2 of big fat desert car racing in the trees. :laughing:

Without completely cutting the front chassis off and starting over there’s no where and no way to move the rack up or down. To much other stuff occupying the same space. If I had more time I’d like to front half it and move the rack in front of the diff. I’m formulating an idea of how best to do that for later.
 
Last edited:
I can assure you its tight at Cross Bar Ranch. I've been there with my neighbor in his Polaris Ranger a couple times. Haven't taken my Talon there yet..... And maybe never will.

Run big wide tre kickers to keep your rear tires from hooking the trees or you will be posting about replacing one side of the rear suspension next. :laughing:
 
Crashed dads car and snapped a king pin inner C in half. What we had here, is a failure to communicate. I was having a good race in SXS but I had to ride with dad, we had no backup co drivers for any classes. Dad being impatient thought I wasn't going to make it in time so he buckled up to run by himself. I made it barely in time to get in with him. He messed with the on the gps on the start line and I couldn't figure out how to put it back.

He was hauling ass. I told him to watch out on his own while I tried to work on the gps. We smoked a giant ditch g-out at like 60 mph. Ripped the right front off. It was scary, knew it was going to be bad. Thought we were going for a cartwheel but he kept it right side up and pointed the right direction. Then Rick Lavezo came through an hit the same thing. He front flipped it 2 1/2 times and landed upside down a couple hundred feet away, cratered the cage and knocked out the co driver.

Officially 13th in SXS but I ducked out with one lap to go. Wasn’t in contention for anything in 4900 but was 3rd in national points in 4500 so I was more concerned about clinching that deal. I’ll post pics and a little recap later.
 
Welcome to owning a golf cart. You buy one because they're "ready to go" only to find out they break more than a clapped out toyota or Sami :flipoff2:

Fuck, that is no joke!!!! I bought a used 2012 RZR XP4 and I've had nothing but issues with it.
 
Crashed dads car and snapped a king pin inner C in half. What we had here, is a failure to communicate. I was having a good race in SXS but I had to ride with dad, we had no backup co drivers for any classes. Dad being impatient thought I wasn't going to make it in time so he buckled up to run by himself. I made it barely in time to get in with him. He messed with the on the gps on the start line and I couldn't figure out how to put it back.

He was hauling ass. I told him to watch out on his own while I tried to work on the gps. We smoked a giant ditch g-out at like 60 mph. Ripped the right front off. It was scary, knew it was going to be bad. Thought we were going for a cartwheel but he kept it right side up and pointed the right direction.

Damn. Keeping it on all 4 at that speed on a g-out is a good thing. Probably could have been a lot worse.
Are you guys all ok? If you need any parts or help with getting it up and going, prepped let me know. I would be happy to help out.

- Jason
 
Damn. Keeping it on all 4 at that speed on a g-out is a good thing. Probably could have been a lot worse.
Are you guys all ok? If you need any parts or help with getting it up and going, prepped let me know. I would be happy to help out.

- Jason


Dad did the right thing at the right time to save us. I called it out to late, but did call it out. He slammed on the brakes slowing us down, then at the last second put the hammer down which pulled the nose up as we hit it. Another guy behind us didn’t get so lucky. He slammed on the brakes and went into it nose down ass up and did 2 1/2 front flips land upside down.

photo32214.jpg


photo32215.jpg
 
A season of racing golf carts is under our belts. Wanted to take a minute and reflect on what I did right and what I did wrong, as I dive into winter prep for next year. My race results with it are like everything else in 2020, not so great. Still had fun and learned a lot. Diving in, this thing is a lot more capable than I thought they were. It’s also more fragile than I thought it would be, and that’s saying something because I knew these things were nothing but weak spots surrounded in plastic. Some of the things we did right was the fully boxed internal gusseted suspension parts. The 300M big CV axle shafts. The Patagonia SXT tires on raceline beadlocks. The RuffStuff cage, bumper, rod ends. The PRP seats. The competition superwinch. Lowering the gears for the big tires. All the aftermarket parts I’m happy with. Everything that that failed on it was Polaris parts. I knew going into this that there were known fail points and I thought I’d addressed them. The weak link I didn’t know was coming was the steering. I’m going through a steering rack a race and it’s an unimaginable nightmare to get the rack out. It’s the last thing out and the first thing in. Never imagined having to drain coolant & pull radiators to get the steering rack out, and I’ve had the front disassembled down to the bare chassis 4 times this year. It’ll have to come apart again for next year to change out another trashed steering rack. Everything else seems to be great. Good balance, hauls ass, flys and lands good. Crawls way better than I’d have guessed. At KOH I’m going to focus on the 4500 and 4400 races in the big car. Saving the RZR for the rest of the western series.
R1.jpeg
 
photo46838.jpg
photo46839.jpg
Jackhammer 1 RZR 0. Actually went clear upside down but the guys were to busy rescuing me to take the picture before they had the winch line on it. Got back on its wheels and ended it’s weekend with a broken driveline.
 
photo51051.jpg
photo51052.jpg
I’m pretty sure the first part Polaris puts in a bare chassis on assembly is the drive shaft. I was told the easiest way to get one out is by pulling the engine and sub trans mounts, left rear suspension and taking the shaft out the back. It was already ruined so I just cut into 3 pieces instead. Still had to tear it down further than I could imagine to even do that.
 
photo51053.jpg
photo51054.jpg
photo51055.jpg
While it’s apart I decided to put a SATV frame stiffener on and weld it. Don’t look to close at the welds, I couldn’t get all the powdercoat off. The good welds will be completely invisible covers up by skid plate and bumper. The porous ones will be completely visible but whatever, the chassis is a consumable. At Oklahoma I had smacked a rock with the right front lower control arm bracket and caved in the chassis while egg shaping the bolt hole. This was the easiest way to get more life out of it without a new front half of the chassis.
 
I have sawzaw-ed a few Polaris driveshafts out to put SandCraft bearings and a shaft in. You save hours.
 
I have sawzaw-ed a few Polaris driveshafts out to put SandCraft bearings and a shaft in. You save hours.

I wish I had known that. All I was doing was removing it to replace with a whole new one. Can’t believe you can’t get the dam thing out of the car without cutting it into pieces when the new one will go right back in without the problems.
 
My Honda is similar. The driveshaft is next to impossible to remove without pulling the front diff, the entire skidplate, and loosening up the engine and rear diff to finagle it out of the car. Seems ridiculous but after seeing this I guess it's just a thing with SxS's.

When is the next race?
 
I have had the driveshaft out of my '18 XP 1000 a few times. it's a pain but doable. Mine doesn't have the flange at the trans though like the Turbo machines.
 
I have had the driveshaft out of my '18 XP 1000 a few times. it's a pain but doable. Mine doesn't have the flange at the trans though like the Turbo machines.

The turbo cars have the driveshaft tunnel full of extra stuff. The factory carrier bearing won’t fit out the top, bottom, front or back of my car on the shaft. The only way it would come out is straight down in front of the crossmember it bolts to. I couldn’t get it off the drive shaft in the car, and with the drive shaft stuck to it can’t straight down. I found YouTube vids of the carrier coming out the top of the tunnel on n-a cars but I’d have to pull all the coolant piping to do that on mine.
 
My Honda is similar. The driveshaft is next to impossible to remove without pulling the front diff, the entire skidplate, and loosening up the engine and rear diff to finagle it out of the car. Seems ridiculous but after seeing this I guess it's just a thing with SxS's.

When is the next race?

April 2nd and 3rd Moab Utah.
 
The turbo cars have the driveshaft tunnel full of extra stuff. The factory carrier bearing won’t fit out the top, bottom, front or back of my car on the shaft. The only way it would come out is straight down in front of the crossmember it bolts to. I couldn’t get it off the drive shaft in the car, and with the drive shaft stuck to it can’t straight down. I found YouTube vids of the carrier coming out the top of the tunnel on n-a cars but I’d have to pull all the coolant piping to do that on mine.

ah yea that is different than mine.

when i pull the DS in mine I slip the sheet metal outer mount part of the carrier bearing off the rubber isolator and pull the rear section out the back past the engine/trans.
 
Click image for larger version Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	200.7 KB ID:	338149
Click image for larger version Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	127.0 KB ID:	338150
Finally got my hands on the alleged bestest steering gear for this thing. Gotta share pics like this because once its in the car it’s invisible.
 
Last edited:
Click image for larger version Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	430.0 KB ID:	352790
Click image for larger version Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	320.1 KB ID:	352791
Click image for larger version Name:	 Views:	0 Size:	264.6 KB ID:	352792
Looked like this going into the weekend, here’s the best pics I’ve seen of the front diff swap, you can barely see it in there and can’t see the rack at all. Pics taken by FIL
 
photo53756.jpg
Upgraded from the Walker Evans 2.0/2.5’s to

Fox 2.5/3.0 IBP’s with ZBROS coil spring package with dual rate stops. I got a killer deal on these, not brand brand new but new never used from a guy that switched cars and went to EXIT’s.
 
Top Back Refresh