What's new

U4 4600 Samurai "The Ham Sami"

the_ham_sami

Red Skull Member
race
Joined
Apr 29, 2021
Member Number
3864
Messages
47
I've been lurking here for a while and figured I should jump in and do a write up on my Samurai. I bought it back in 2016, it was a rolling chassis (no engine, no transfer case and a basket of random parts in the back). I parked it on the property and it sat until late 2019, at that point I started tearing it down to do a full frame up build. It was painted black with a white soft top, it had been sitting in someones yard for a long time. Typical nasty interior from rodents and such.

However, it had almost zero rust and the body was straight so at the time I had found a really nice candidate for the build I wanted to do. At this point racing with Ultra4 wasn't even a thought in my mind. I had only seen King of the Hammers for the first time in 2018. So, come early 2020 I find out some bad news about my health and to make a long story short, I'm fine now, but at the time it was unclear how much longer I'd be here. At this same time I had watched Amber Turner race her Samurai at KOH, which to me was badass seeing a Samurai on such a grand stage. I thought well dammit I better do something cool and here I had a blank slate with my Samurai. Let's go racing!

From that point on it has completely snowballed out of control into what it is today and I'm still not finished with it...

I've documented most of the build up to this point on Instagram (the_ham_sami) so if you would like to see from the beginning thats where that will be. I'm going to pick this thread up where I'm at with the car today. I feel that I'm at a point where I can start to contribute some tech and I'm hoping to get some tech input/feedback from the collective hive-mind here at Irate:flipoff2:

At this point I've got a solid suspension setup with some custom springs built to our specs from Jeff at Deaver. Tyler at ADS has a great tune in our shocks currently. We now have a solid engine package that Petroworks put together for us as well. Overall I'm very pleased with what we've managed to get out of this little Samurai, but I think there's more in it.

Our biggest struggle is the desert lap at KOH (no surprise). Short wheelbase and leaf springs makes for a tough first lap. Which brings me to our current goals for the coming year in preparation for KOH2024. Weight bias, unsprung/sprung weight.

On the scales at tech we weighed 2900lbs in full race trim, 53% front - 47% rear weight bias. From what I can gather the desert racing/pre-runner crowd hang some weight out back (spare tires) to shift some of that bias off the front. I'm wanting to do the same in hopes of gaining some compliance when we get into the rollers out on lap 1. We can hang with most of the class in the sandy washboard sections but we get left in the dust when the rollers start getting deep. I know our wheelbase will always be a hinderance but I think having other areas lacking as well it all compounds into a chassis that will get out of shape on you in a hurry.

First thing I've thought to do is relocate the spare tire. Up until now it has been stood up in the back on the driver side, directly above the rear axle. The logical place to move it is laid flat and hanging partially out of where the rear door/tail gate normally would be. Think Bomber Chassis style mounting. I've got the extra tubing laying around and some time these next few weekends so that's where I'm going to start.

Here's how its been for the last 2 years.

IMG_5280.JPG


Here's what I have as a mock-up for the new location.

16975D94-EABC-4EA7-8442-5FFCF09654C3.JPG
 
got to love the hard core leaf spring group doing KOH..... soon there will have to be its own class because there are fewer and fewer leaf springs out there.
 
We now have a solid engine package that Petroworks put together for us as well. Overall I'm very pleased with what we've managed to get out of this little Samurai, but I think there's more in it.

I get if you need to keep some secrets, but what kinda work is done to get the little 4-banger a little angrier? Can you get to 3-digit horsepower and have them reliable?
 
I get if you need to keep some secrets, but what kinda work is done to get the little 4-banger a little angrier? Can you get to 3-digit horsepower and have them reliable?

We have to keep the original 1.3 block per stock class rules. We put a 1.6 16v head on the 1.3 block. We're running the 16v intake, ECU/engine management. All stock. Essentially a short-stroked 1.6 16v. It comes out to being around a 1.4L. It's the fastest revving Suzuki motor I've driven.

Everything internal throughout the whole thing is off the shelf parts, nothing in it is custom just a mash up of various parts from Suzuki.

As far as power I'm fairly certain 100+ can be had reliably, I do think it would require moving away from Suzuki engine management though. Factory ECU has a rev limiter at 6500rpm and its still pulling hard up to that point.

IMG_5380.png
 
Never heard of a 16v head on a 1.3 block, what all does that entail?

Seems like the best of both worlds since the 16v's seem to be pretty weak, where the 1.3s seem bullet proof.

Also, is anyone really checking the block? :laughing:
 
Never heard of a 16v head on a 1.3 block, what all does that entail?

Seems like the best of both worlds since the 16v's seem to be pretty weak, where the 1.3s seem bullet proof.

Also, is anyone really checking the block? :laughing:

The head bolts directly to the block. Correct pistons with 4 valve reliefs. It's not overly complicated, I'm surprised it hasn't been done more often.

Nobody checks until someone files a red card with U4. At this point I'd rather have the 1.3 block anyway, it revs a lot quicker than the 1.6 16v I have in my DD samurai. You do lose some low end torque but for me its a trade-off I'm willing to make. We spend most of race day at 4K and above. When we are moving slow (rocks) we're in 4low and don't really need any extra grunt from the engine with our deep gears.
 
The head bolts directly to the block. Correct pistons with 4 valve reliefs. It's not overly complicated, I'm surprised it hasn't been done more often.

Nobody checks until someone files a red card with U4. At this point I'd rather have the 1.3 block anyway, it revs a lot quicker than the 1.6 16v I have in my DD samurai. You do lose some low end torque but for me its a trade-off I'm willing to make. We spend most of race day at 4K and above. When we are moving slow (rocks) we're in 4low and don't really need any extra grunt from the engine with our deep gears.

I'm also surprised it's not done more. My first vehicle was a Sami almost 20 years ago and I've never heard of it.

What about timing belt? Accessories? Just use all 1.6 stuff?

Sorry to derail, but this interests me quite a bit. Care to start a separate thread with more details? Or just keep it going here?

FleshEater needs to do this to his Sami project.
 
I'm also surprised it's not done more. My first vehicle was a Sami almost 20 years ago and I've never heard of it.

What about timing belt? Accessories? Just use all 1.6 stuff?

Sorry to derail, but this interests me quite a bit. Care to start a separate thread with more details? Or just keep it going here?

FleshEater needs to do this to his Sami project.

I have all the parts. :flipoff2:
 
I'm also surprised it's not done more. My first vehicle was a Sami almost 20 years ago and I've never heard of it.

What about timing belt? Accessories? Just use all 1.6 stuff?

Sorry to derail, but this interests me quite a bit. Care to start a separate thread with more details? Or just keep it going here?

FleshEater needs to do this to his Sami project.

I don't mind talking about it here

I've been asked not to give away a few details, Petroworks put the R&D into this and I believe they plan on offering this as an alternative to a standard 1.6 swap. With good donor 1.6 engines getting harder to find its a great option.

I'm using the 1.6 alternator with both upper and lower bracket from the 1.6

I run a TC ps pump, the 1.6 crank pulley is dual serpentine belts. I was able to build a ps pump bracket that uses the same length belt as the water pump/fan side. 4K315 serpentine belt for both, worked out nicely.

Timing belt is from a different vehicle, I don't remember any specifics off the top of my head. Petroworks handled that part. The 1.3 deck height is 5/8" shorter than the 1.6 iirc. The distributor ended up needing to be clocked passed the available adjustment so I made a little bracket to get us going for KOH.

IMG_4036-preview.png
 
Update on relocating the spare tire. I used tube clamps on the main bracket so I can get it out of the way if/when I need to mess with the fuel cell. I used some 3/4-6 ACME threaded rod for the actual hold down. I'll be out in Johnson Valley next weekend, really curious if I'll be able to feel any difference in handling.

IMG_5401.jpg


IMG_5409.jpg


IMG_5410.jpg
 
Crossing the bronco portal questions over to Sami life. Given weight and power similarities between SXS and Sam's, could you cost effectively graft SXS portals on one?
 
Crossing the bronco portal questions over to Sami life. Given weight and power similarities between SXS and Sam's, could you cost effectively graft SXS portals on one?

I'm not well versed in SXS stuff, let alone portals but I imagine it can be done. I'm not totally convinced that portals would be a worthwhile addition to my samurai though.

Unsprung weight would be the biggest con for me, I don't know how much SXS portals weigh, but the last thing I want to do is add more unsprung weight. In fact I'm currently looking at ways to minimize unsprung weight. I do think this is uniquely a sami "problem" our sami is so light compared to other vehicles in our class. We don't have the sprung weight to compensate for copious amounts of unsprung weight. It's great in the rocks, but it's horrible in the go-fast desert stuff.

Also I believe we have a narrower track width than the cars running portals in our class. Which helps compensate for reduced ground clearance.

I will say that having portals should reduce overall strain on the rest of the drivetrain, which would be nice for the samurais. We had to move from sami axles to toyota 8" because we couldn't keep the sami stuff alive. That goes directly back to the unsprung weight argument, Toyota 8" axles are so much heavier than the sami axles. If sami axles with SXS portals weighed the same or less than built Toyota 8" and they could survive KOH, that might be the best all around setup.

I guess that's the long way of saying I don't know lol

I'm sure somebody will try it at some point, won't be me though, I have too much invested into my 8" setup now.
 
Back from JV, spare tire relocated makes a difference. Not a dramatic difference but noticeable. Most noticeably on deep rollers with a square edge, before hanging the spare, the rear end would start to step out, kick side to side. I have to hit a section faster now to get the rear to step out. I'm hoping to find more little improvements like this before KOH2024.

Also got to check out Masters which is really the only part of our race course that I had never seen before. It's a short trail but it has some off camber drops that really feel sketchy in the sami.

IMG_5424.png
 
So I finally have a TIG welder and have started learning aluminum. Decided I should build something useful while I'm learning. I've been wanting a better storage solution for a while now. I used to tuck all of my tool rolls and bags under the seats, which is fine until I need them. It's a pain in the ass getting them back out.

Also with with my spare tire relocated I have freed up some real estate next to the fuel cell. I needed a container that can fit 3 tool bags, 1 tool roll, and at least 4 quarts of fluids. Here's what I came up with:

0.090" AL panels, 3/8" AL round stock (fluid hold down), 2 Quik-Latch's for the lid, 2" basic hinges, edge molding (top edge, inner lip need to order more to finish inner lip)

13x13x13" inside dimensions on the main box.

IMG_5458.jpg


IMG_5460.jpg


IMG_5459.jpg


Still need to mount it, will probably just drill thru the bottom of box and bolt directly to the bed/floor.
Aluminum is not quite as difficult as I'd thought it would be on the tig. I feel most comfortable on outside corner joints, I can make them look halfway decent already. T-joints/fillet welds on the other hand have given me some trouble. I can get them going but getting any kind of consistency in the weld profile or not deforming the backside of the base material is proving to be quite difficult:shaking:
 
When my front driveshaft failed me at KOH it meant we made it to the dirt hill climb before Turkey Claw and had to park it there. I got to watch half the class climb that hill and you Samurai guys had less trouble than anything else in our class. Good looking Sammy!
 
Last edited:
any thought of a secondary latch on that box? just thinking how much abuse it will take going through whoops.
 
any thought of a secondary latch on that box? just thinking how much abuse it will take going through whoops.

I can always add a stronger latch if these Quik Latches don’t work, I’m kind of using this as a test for me. I’ve never used them before so I’d like to have some first-hand knowledge on where I can and can’t use these.
 
Small update, I've started preparing for 2024 King of the Hammers. Building a new Transfer Case bracket wasn't part of my original plan, but I needed to plate the frame in that area for the new anti-wrap bar's crossmember. So I decided to just chop off the t-case bracket and do one continuous plate and build a new bracket.

I drew everything up in Fusion360 and cut out using a Langmuir CNC Plasma table.


ISIMG-944838.JPG


IMG_5818.jpg


IMG_5817.jpg


IMG_5816.jpg
 
Top Back Refresh