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U joint yoke or companion flange

Hartmanb1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2022
Member Number
5249
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Hey guys, building a Dana 60 for the back of my Jeep, it's out of a Ford and has a companion flange on it. What are the pros and cons of using that over a typical u joint yoke? It's on a yj with a 6 inch rear stretch, gonna be a 5.3 with a sm465 and a 205 case. So leaving as much length as possible will be good. Guessing the regular yoke will give a bit longer shaft.
 
I personally like flanges as it a ujoint breaks it damages the drive shaft not the yoke. Which in a trail repair situation is easier than trying to weld a ujoint in a broken yoke to limp out. I also like the fact the flange is round and they survive rubbing on rocks better.

That said I’ve only tan Toyota shafts and have been told this Dana 60 flange combo wouldn’t allow for a lot of angle. But that’s just from my driveshaft guy. I’d be interested if any are running them successfully.
 
I personally like flanges as it a ujoint breaks it damages the drive shaft not the yoke. Which in a trail repair situation is easier than trying to weld a ujoint in a broken yoke to limp out. I also like the fact the flange is round and they survive rubbing on rocks better.

That said I’ve only tan Toyota shafts and have been told this Dana 60 flange combo wouldn’t allow for a lot of angle. But that’s just from my driveshaft guy. I’d be interested if any are running them successfully.
Well for me that angle wouldn't be an issue cause I'll be running a DC at the transfer case. But that makes sense to me what you're saying
 
A flange will spin on a rock or log. A rectangular shaped yoke wont
 
personally like flanges as it a ujoint breaks it damages the drive shaft not the yoke. Which in a trail repair situation is easier than trying to weld a ujoint in a broken yoke to limp out. I also like the fact the flange is round and they survive rubbing on rocks better.

^both of these

I don't know that I'd bother changing an axle that already has a standard yoke, but if it came with a flange or I was building from scratch, I'd go that route. I have an 8.8 in my buggy and run a flange on it for those reasons.
 
Just to bump this to add to tech. I talked with a guy who is running flange front on a 60 with a 3 link. Had to run the offset ujoint from Tom woods and still grind the flange to get any angle on it. I think this would cause driveline vibrations from what I’ve read.

So what I heard seems to be correct not a great way to get any angle out of that setup.

I’d love to hear different.
 
Just to bump this to add to tech. I talked with a guy who is running flange front on a 60 with a 3 link. Had to run the offset ujoint from Tom woods and still grind the flange to get any angle on it. I think this would cause driveline vibrations from what I’ve read.

So what I heard seems to be correct not a great way to get any angle out of that setup.

I’d love to hear different.
That's good to know, it's only the rear that has the flange, the front has a regular yoke. Would be interesting to see that set up, cause from what I can remember they have for the flanges it should have a normal range of motion, but I don't know.
 
That's good to know, it's only the rear that has the flange, the front has a regular yoke. Would be interesting to see that set up, cause from what I can remember they have for the flanges it should have a normal range of motion, but I don't know.
From what I’ve seen the flange is from econoline vans that had 60 rear.

This guy I’m referring to was using on a Tacoma with superduty 60 and front three link.

I saw a video where wfo concepts had used a flange at the axle on a Jeep jl. But I haven’t called to find out the details.

I could see it working with radius arms. As pinion doesn’t change much through range of travel.
 
From what I’ve seen the flange is from econoline vans that had 60 rear.

This guy I’m referring to was using on a Tacoma with superduty 60 and front three link.

I saw a video where wfo concepts had used a flange at the axle on a Jeep jl. But I haven’t called to find out the details.

I could see it working with radius arms. As pinion doesn’t change much through range of travel.
Yeah that's what my rear 60 is out of, I had a sterling with it too out of an f350. And that makes sense if the arms are equal length or close to, always a trade off with how stuff is built.
 
Yoke < flanges all day imo

You may not get much angle from the common factory flange set ups, but there should be aftermarket yokes that will allow more and bolt to that flange.

This style will allow more angle and is a factory spicer part.

Screenshot_20230320_161330_Chrome.jpg
 
I still have yokes (for now) but, I prefer threaded flanges. Especially at the tcase because of the ease of removal. Makes pulling a broken driveshaft a 2 minute job instead of fighting u bolts and backside nuts. Its even easier when both sides are flanges. Since you are doing a 205, just get a flange for the 205 too and build the driveshaft to work with the flanges.
 
Yoke < flanges all day imo

You may not get much angle from the common factory flange set ups, but there should be aftermarket yokes that will allow more and bolt to that flange.

This style will allow more angle and is a factory spicer part.

Screenshot_20230320_161330_Chrome.jpg

I just wish there were a 1350 version of this that for the common 4.25 bolt pattern and 2" pilot.

Nadda out there. I've got a 1350 flange on the front of my Atlas, and already concerned there won't be enough angle even with clearancing the u-joint flange...and don't want to go back to a yoke...though I could bolt my old setup right on.

This is where it would be nice to have a lathe/end mill. I'd just make a flange plate, and weld a 1350 yoke to it like busted knuckle does with the rockwell 1410s.
 
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