Two Ton Tanya - A Tracker Build Thread

[quarters_ninja]

It's time to start documenting my new Tracker build.


I currently have Tina, a 97 Ranger cab on a 78 Bronco frame that has been my wheeler for the last few years. This was the first wheeler I built and learned a lot along the way. I get a good chuckle looking back at how far my welding skills have come since then (and I'm still not any good at it).






Overall I have been pretty happy with this truck. The 400m seems to always run hot, but with the electric water pump and fan I was able to make it work fine. My biggest annoyance has probably been v-belts. Well, and now I am breaking RCVs. So far it has been the short side twice and long side once, not sure what the deal is but they do not hold up with the 37" boggers and a big block.

None of those reasons were enough for me to move on from my love, Tina, until I had a kid. Now I need some space to fit a car seat because this little guy is ready to go wheeling.



That leads us to Tanya. Something I didn't do well was document my first build, and since I smoke too much I can't always remember what parts I hobbled together. This time I will write stuff down!

I am starting with a Geo Tracker, mostly because it's pretty clean, got it cheap, and has a lot more room for a car seat.




I intend to make this truck pretty simple so it has low maintenance costs and doesn't break every time I smash the skinny pedal.

Plans so far:

• 5.3l LS - I have a low miles motor that runs good
• 4l60e - I have a brand new rebuilt 2wd tranny and a 4wd core that are going to become friends
• atlas 2 speed <-- might be doing the black box instead from NWF
• 4 link with coil springs from a TJ on front/back
• 05+ super duty front
• Not positive on the rear, have a 35 spline 9 inch but considering selling it and going 1-ton from the beginning. Either sterling with factory e-locker, or d60 for rear steer.

 

[quarters_ninja]

I pulled the body off the frame and started cutting it up. We get a lot of rust up here in the north, so I'm happy to say the only rust is a little in the passenger floor and the body mounts.

 

[quarters_ninja]

Next I started building a frame. 2x3 and 2x6 rec steel. I have never done this part before so I took a lot of measurements during the process. It's probably not perfect but I am pleased with how it is coming so far.




The front cross member is just for support right now. It will get cutoff when I get the front frame rails fabbed together.



I'm happy with how tight it fits to the bottom of the body.

 

[quarters_ninja]

Rock sliders were welded on and body mounts created. This picture also shows the only rust I have to deal with.

My initial plan was to do leaf springs in the rear to keep it simple. I built a front mount for it and started lining stuff up, I hate it. I can't get anything to look good and I won't be pleased. So this will be cutoff and going to links instead.

 

[quarters_ninja]

I set that aside for a bit because my chinesium plasma cutter showed up. Started getting the D60 prepped, what a pain in the ass this is going to be.

And that's where I am at right now.

 

[PAE]

Would be nice if this build thread were in the correct place

From your first post in the thread as to what this "thing" is would have told you where to put it.

IT would belong in a ford area not a Chevy.

Austin maybe you can delegate someone to move crap like this to where it belongs, thx.

97 Ranger cab on a 78 Bronco frame

 

[quarters_ninja]

Would be nice if this build thread were in the correct place

From your first post in the thread as to what this "thing" is would have told you where to put it.

IT would belong in a ford area not a Chevy.

Austin maybe you can delegate someone to move crap like this to where it belongs, thx.

Thanks for reading my post🖕, I would have put this in the GEO section if we had one.... My current truck is a ford, but I am building a chevy now. I will edit my first post so it is clear for you.

 

[Mouse]

Would be nice if this build thread were in the correct place

From your first post in the thread as to what this "thing" is would have told you where to put it.

IT would belong in a ford area not a Chevy.

Austin maybe you can delegate someone to move crap like this to where it belongs, thx.

looks like a tracker to me

 

[Twankie]

Where is the kfc gravy?

 

[PAE]

Apologies, I saw 97 Ranger cab on a 78 Bronco frame.

That spells ford to me.

Thanks for reading my post🖕, I would have put this in the GEO section if we had one.... My current truck is a ford, but I am building a chevy now. I will edit my first post so it is clear for you.

 

[Sterlingfire]

Looks cool so far.
A porta band will be your friend with removing all the shit you don't want on your dana 60

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

That tracker body and frame is clean! Looks and sounds like your off to a good start.

 

[quarters_ninja]

Looks cool so far.
A porta band will be your friend with removing all the shit you don't want on your dana 60

I wish I had borrowed a porta-band....

Got it all cut up but it was sure a pain in the ass. Took me at least 8 hours of fuckin around. I could probably do it in 4 next time. And there might be a next time, thinking about putting a 60 in the rear. Either that or doing the sterling with a factory e-locker. Haven't pulled the trigger either way.

I'm also considering running the black/eco box from NWF. It would save me some money over the atlas and I would be able to run stock gears in the axle, but length is my biggest concern.

 

[quarters_ninja]

Finally got the trusses cut and welded in. Decided to go with rear steer so I did another super duty 60.

Diff covers are on the list. As well as steering parts.


Used flux core for all the cast stuff. Was thinking the dual shielding would help with the dirty metal. I am definitely a novice welder so I'm hoping paint and a little rock rash will cover up the parts that look like I did it in a barn with 1 40w lamp overhead. The easy welding I am getting better at.

I also picked up an eco-box from NorthWestFab and the shifter kit. The doubler was on back order for a bit but Kris was awesome on keeping me updated and the parts are sweet now that I have them. Once I put this together I will have everything needed to mockup the driveline/axles/links.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Usually the trackers go in the suzuki section since the entire vehicle is built by suzuki ​​​​​​

Looks like you're tossing all the suzuki shit anyway, so whatever.

 

[Swampee]

This is looking like fun. Question about the rear axle though. You didn't move the offset of the center at all so I'm guessing you arent concerned about the driveline angle? A friend was running 609s and had made both axles the same to ha e less spare parts and it vibrated like hell between trails cruising.

I was concerned about this also as I'm currently building axles, I'm running 9s flipped so the extra length and pinion offset helps in my case. He was initially running the longest factory short side (78/9 kp ford) and the shortest factory long side. So he kept it narrower than full width.

side not it looks like you have a 241 to run there. Years ago I did this in a jeep and JB conversions wanted like 550 for a slip yoke elimination kit. I used a dodge output shaft in the chevy case and made a seal retainer

 

[Dan]

Sweet build so far I am looking forward to updates as they come but I have some questions about your project. Just the name actually.

Is it only going to weigh 2 tons?
​​​​Is it because you are using two 1 one axles?
Is it because it rolls off the tongue just right?

I checked out this thread expecting something with rocks and was pleasantly surprised to find you aren't running rockwells.
​​​​​

 

[quarters_ninja]

This is looking like fun. Question about the rear axle though. You didn't move the offset of the center at all so I'm guessing you arent concerned about the driveline angle? A friend was running 609s and had made both axles the same to ha e less spare parts and it vibrated like hell between trails cruising.

I was concerned about this also as I'm currently building axles, I'm running 9s flipped so the extra length and pinion offset helps in my case. He was initially running the longest factory short side (78/9 kp ford) and the shortest factory long side. So he kept it narrower than full width.

side not it looks like you have a 241 to run there. Years ago I did this in a jeep and JB conversions wanted like 550 for a slip yoke elimination kit. I used a dodge output shaft in the chevy case and made a seal retainer

I am a little concerned about the driveshaft angle. There are a couple of guys I wheel with who have good success with an offset diff so that eases my mind some. I am offsetting the motor towards the passenger side so it lines up better.

The 241 was just a donor for the EcoBox doubler. I have the driveline mocked together and working on motor mounts. Had to cut a lot more floor to get everything where I wanted it. Will post some pictures once I have the mounts tacked in.

 

[quarters_ninja]

Sweet build so far I am looking forward to updates as they come but I have some questions about your project. Just the name actually.

Is it only going to weigh 2 tons?
​​​​Is it because you are using two 1 one axles?
Is it because it rolls off the tongue just right?

I checked out this thread expecting something with rocks and was pleasantly surprised to find you aren't running rockwells.
​​​​​

A buddy said it because it just rolled off the tongue and is white trash similar to my current truck, Tina. It fits because it has 2 1-ton axles. If it weighs only 2 tons that would just be a nice bonus.

 

[quarters_ninja]

Slowly making some progress. Got the driveline bolted together with some mockups (205 and 4l60e) and started building mounts.

First thing I realized is exhaust manifolds were a no go, wouldn't have had any room for the passenger:

Here are a couple pics of the new headers with the motor mounts I fabbed up using some 1/4" plate and the DOM/bushings from an old anti-wrap bar:

I'm going to build a support that connects the motor mounts underneath, which will also provide a place to mount a skid plate.

You will also notice the motor is off-set to the passenger side as much as possible. I did this for a couple reasons, more room for driveshaft, offset rear diff, more driver foot clearance.

I still have quite a bit more cutting to do. The floor needs more, the firewall needs quite a bit. The motor at this height should give me just enough clearance to save the windshield wiper mechanism (I might need to bend it up a little).

The front crossmember is temporary. This picture gives a nice shot of how far the motor is offset.

I'm working on my tranny cross member now. With how this is set I will be running a carrier bearing on my front driveshaft, then hopefully setting the axles so both the front and rear are the same length. I have all of my heims so next I will be mocking up the rear 4-link and front 3-link.

This is a fun part of the build for me, sometimes it's hard to do adult stuff without constantly thinking about the project.

 

[eat.sleep.wheel]

you could cock the tail end of the drivetrain a few degrees to the pass side to help with driveshaft angles, since the SD axles are WAY offset. and in your case they'll be way offset in opposite directions.

 

[quarters_ninja]

Took the body off, borrowed the Millermatic, and got the frame welded up. Cut a bunch of fishplates to strengthen it. Started mocking up axle locations.

You can see in this picture I have the drive train clocked to point towards the diff. Still need to make a crossmember for the 205 but I have to take apart the ecobox and clock it one more position before I do that.

This is as far back as I could pull the front axle and still maintain as much up travel as possible. This will give me about 5.5" maximum up. Had to cut the truss so it would clear the frame rail.

Might end up having to redo the driver side motor mount to clear my upper link. Will find out soon when I mock up links.

I need to clean up welds and knock some welding splatter off still....

That is current progress. I'm doing links next, at this point I am targetting:

110" wheel base
18" belly height (with 37's)

The rear links are going to be interesting with the offset driveshaft/diff. My initial idea will not work (at full bump the driveshaft would hit the upper link), so I have to take some measurements and plug them into the 4-link calculator to try and get it all squared away. Worst case I can go with a 3-link but would prefer not to.


Here is the little guy doing some sweet tricks.

 

[KyleQ]

Looks like shit, start over 🖕

Great to see you have a build thread Josh, looking good!

 

[Byro]

I have been trying to talk myself into keeping the IFS in my Track and this is making it difficult cause this thing is badass!