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#turd burglar

been pretty hands off with this thing since getting back from Sand Hallow but starting to tinker and work through my list gremlins and opportunities for improvement. This started with changing the oil, new plugs and wires and putting fuel in her. amazing what a difference it makes lol.
pulled the diff cover and installed the studs, nordlocks and lock nuts. Probably didn't need to actually pull the cover and drain the diff but since its basically a trophy truck now that the shocks are accutarded, its important to change fluids every trip.... following a day of wheeling in Hollister, every nut and bolt on the diff cover was still tight so I am happy about that.

Installed the PSC pressure relief for the steering reservoir to help prevent fluid from pouring all over my header. The -10 supply line still weeps and drips on the header causing an occasional puff of smoke so I would like to 1. change out the supply line to a either high temp push lock or get a line made 2. build a little drip pan to keep the drips away from the header. the whole engine compartment just feels fucking hot. I'm not sure if wrapping the header and exhaust would really help but I would like to figure something out. Steering cooler is very safely protected by the winch which also means there is basically zero air flow passing over it so relocating that higher up on the core support would probably also help keep the heat down in that system. All of this will happen when I pull the trigger on a new orbital. steering is super slow, especially from passenger to driver so im going to swap the orbital to get the lock to lock turns down.

Did not have any overheating issues with the truck while out at Hollister so seems that it was just a bad cap. I think I'll still put together a complete shroud to help with both keep the water temp down and help with pulling air across the steering cooler.

Bled the clutch again and its still super mushy until the last 3/4" of throw. general belief is that the internal seals are corroded and gone. its cheap enough to just order a new master and slave for the clutch than to spend more time trying to trouble shoot the existing one.

Overall, still really happy with how the truck is working and it was fun to get out and use the thing again. I forgot how close Hollister is.

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i have the same issue, stupid slow steering, learned alot in a couple months, turns out for the last 3 years or so i was running a super small orbital but was not a issue on toyota 6 inch rams, it made a big difference when i went to 8 inch psc 2.5 rod. like 11 turns lock to lock and put another one on and now 6, better but not great, so i ordered this and should be like 2.3 turns lock to lock, cant wait.

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9.76CI-160ML Steering Control Valve
Total: $320.99
Order number: 25-07205-34421
Item ID: 183075050782
Seller: worldwide_adventures(187)
 
i have the same issue, stupid slow steering, learned alot in a couple months, turns out for the last 3 years or so i was running a super small orbital but was not a issue on toyota 6 inch rams, it made a big difference when i went to 8 inch psc 2.5 rod. like 11 turns lock to lock and put another one on and now 6, better but not great, so i ordered this and should be like 2.3 turns lock to lock, cant wait.

s-l140.jpg
9.76CI-160ML Steering Control Valve
Total: $320.99
Order number: 25-07205-34421
Item ID: 183075050782
Seller: worldwide_adventures(187)
lol at 11 turns. I'm at about 5.5 turning passenger to driver lock to lock. 9.7CI calc's out to about 4 turns and 11.3 gets me down to about 3 turns. 2.3 would be like steering a go cart
 
Bumper is complete, CL Baja Design lights are wired up and replaced the headlight I lost at Sand Hollow with some amazon LED headlights. Ran out of steel it so its going raw dog for KOH and will get painted once I return. Need to do a final bolt and fluid check, wash her down and get her loaded on the trailer.
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Bumper is complete, CL Baja Design lights are wired up and replaced the headlight I lost at Sand Hollow with some amazon LED headlights. Ran out of steel it so its going raw dog for KOH and will get painted once I return. Need to do a final bolt and fluid check, wash her down and get her loaded on the trailer.
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Man I dig the dimpled upright braces on that bumper. Good job.
 
Long overdue update. Haven't wheeled this much outside of KOH and Sand Hollow the last few years. Between the house remodel and another kid I haven't put much energy or effort into this. Hoping to get a few trips to the Sierra's in this summer. Flopped on The Fallen and then got recovered onto my lid. Windshield took its last ride and the back glass popped out in one piece, seal and all. Truck fired right back up and I had a nice glass shower on the way back to the house. Pulled the windshield out at the house and its pretty much buggy now.

Tentative plan is to cut the back of the cab out, extend the cage and put a bench for the kids in. Been going back and forth about putting a new cab, swapping a 4runner cab on or building something different all together. At the end of the day, there is some nostalgia about a raisin'd toyota. I thought this thing was hammered when I got it, but I was very wrong.
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I might know of where a cab and bed are located if you wanna just swap that.
 
I noticed you’re in San Jose, there’s a dude that had a 85ish 4Runner body listed for $500 for a while locally if you wanted to chase that route.
 
I might know of where a cab and bed are located if you wanna just swap that.
I noticed you’re in San Jose, there’s a dude that had a 85ish 4Runner body listed for $500 for a while locally if you wanted to chase that route.
TB is probably going to be taking a back seat, no pun intended while I sort through some things on the new rig. Tacoma was originally an Oregon truck so it's currently missing one of the cats and is throwing a CEL for a few EVAP codes. After that there is some electrical items I want to clean up while wiring in the ARB compressor for the front locker and need to trouble shoot the e locker in the rear as the dash light won't stop blinking and more importantly, the locker doesn't engage. supposedly had the gray wire mod performed but I haven't dug into that to verify. I have an additional 5.29 ARB third member that was thrown in with the sale but need to track down a non e locker tacoma rear housing if I want to install that.
 
Working on some minor prep items before JV the end of this month... noticed some oil on the deck of my trailer after taking the truck to get smogged, got it off the trailer and into the garage and located the oil leak. After getting everything apart, my assumption is that the front case shift fork broke off, got wedged against the side of the case, cracking the housing. All the internals seems to be fine, no chipped teeth on the gears, etc. I don't know when the cases were originally built, but in the 10 years I have owned the truck I have never cracked them open. The low range shift rail and fork were "fabricated" in a non-standard method from what is described on Marlin's install instructions for dual cases. My assumption is they reworked a forward shift t case shift rail to make it a top shift.
Plan is to call Advanced adapters and get a machined reduction housing on order as well as a top shift conversion kit from trail gear for the replacement shift fork and rail.
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My shops in Milpitas if you need another reduction housing and shift fork. I got a bunch of rf1A parts that I'll trade for beer. Quickest way to get ya on the trail again. Also I'm hitting the hammers for st Patty's weekend if you're going to be there the same time.

Jimbo
 
My shops in Milpitas if you need another reduction housing and shift fork. I got a bunch of rf1A parts that I'll trade for beer. Quickest way to get ya on the trail again. Also I'm hitting the hammers for st Patty's weekend if you're going to be there the same time.

Jimbo
Appreciate it. just pulled the trigger got the reduction housing from advanced adapter as well as the top shift conversion kit from trail gear. figured the cases have been in there a long time and done me well for the last decade so might as well spend a little money on them.
We will be out there the weekend after St Patty's day .
 
If you're running lower gears in the rear case, I'd put the upgraded housing there and the oe housing up front.
 
Got the bulk of the new parts in late last week and got the cases reassembled and installed in the truck Saturday/ Sunday. Just need to get drivelines and exhaust installed and all should be good to go for JV. Waiting on a second push turn shifter base from marlin just to make my life easier but can just install the old shifter base if it doesnt show up before the trip. Overall, I feel like I got pretty lucky with minimal damage, all the internals were in good shape.
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