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Trailer Tips, Tricks and things you would change.

I've heard that those camper style power jacks tend to break the gears when they're loaded.

The bulldog trailer Jack power units are pretty big to have out on a tongue.
 
bgaidan said:
A lot of the ones I've seen have a 7 pin plug on them and you have to unplug your trailer lights and plug in the jack to use it. If you have the 12v aux wired up on your trailer plug, you could easily hardwire it to that....especially with one of those kick ass junction boxes we're all talking about. :laughing:
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That was my plan. The one i was looking at said it was 30 amps. I assumed that was full load amps but wasn’t sure. I rewired my trailer bc I kept blowing turn signal fuses. I don’t want to create another fuse problem...
 
Curbkrawler said:
Anyone run an electric jack? Just curious as to recommended brand. Do you use the truck’s power wire or run a battery? My manual jack location limits what size box I can use on the front. I can’t move the jack forward due to my truck camper hanging over the bed. I prefer not to run a hitch extender so was considering an electric jack. My truck’s power wire is fused for 30 amps.
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No, but I've been thinking about tack welding a nut on to the manual jack so I can spin it with a drill (not under load of course) for faster hookup/disconnect times
 
Started welding these hook points from Off-road Anonymous onto the corners of the trailer. They will make it super easy to load and unload the crawler quickly.

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Wulf said:
Started welding these hook points from Off-road Anonymous onto the corners of the trailer. They will make it super easy to load and unload the crawler quickly.

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For what ever reason I always thought people were welding those to their axle housings, I like them on the trailer deck like you did better.
I hate hearing my d rings slap up and down.
 
welndmn said:
For what ever reason I always thought people were welding those to their axle housings, I like them on the trailer deck like you did better.
I hate hearing my d rings slap up and down.
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I've got some on my trussed 14 bolt because a standard axle strap wont fit around it. Trailer idea is solid.. might have to order some more...
 
welndmn said:
For what ever reason I always thought people were welding those to their axle housings, I like them on the trailer deck like you did better.
I hate hearing my d rings slap up and down.
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Harry Johnson said:
I've got some on my trussed 14 bolt because a standard axle strap wont fit around it. Trailer idea is solid.. might have to order some more...
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They sell ones notched to weld onto axle housings as well. I might throw some on later but these seemed like a good start.

My initial plan was to throw together some stake pocket mounted d rings so I could move them around but the stake pockets weren't sized consistently enough for that to happen. I still have the d rings but I'm not sure I'll weld them onto the trailer.
 
Wulf said:
They sell ones notched to weld onto axle housings as well. I might throw some on later but these seemed like a good start.

My initial plan was to throw together some stake pocket mounted d rings so I could move them around but the stake pockets weren't sized consistently enough for that to happen. I still have the d rings but I'm not sure I'll weld them onto the trailer.
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If you put a heat shrink, or rubber hose over the d-ring, before welding it on; you wont hear it clang anymore. I am planning to add those brackets to my trailer, instead of more d-rings.
 
On my bumper pull I had a deep cycle with a anderson plug on my truck. That way if I didn't pull it the winch could still be used.
for the gooseneck I'm thinking skip the battery, since I'll be the only one pulling it I'll always have the plug for it. I want to put led cubes on the deck at some point, but I don't see why the brake away battery can't run that.
what do you guys think?
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ANGELO said:
On my bumper pull I had a deep cycle with a anderson plug on my truck. That way if I didn't pull it the winch could still be used.
for the gooseneck I'm thinking skip the battery, since I'll be the only one pulling it I'll always have the plug for it. I want to put led cubes on the deck at some point, but I don't see why the brake away battery can't run that.
what do you guys think?
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I run my lights on my flatbed off the breakaway battery. Works fine for the few times I need them without being hooked up. I even wired some as back up/on/off with a 3 way switch.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Pretty sure I learned about these through floor chain tie downs in this thread, or a thread like this. Anyone put these in their trailer? Pros/cons? At ~6000# capacity each, it doesn't seem like there are any cons. The key feature for me is that they drop flush with the deck surface when not in use, removing a tripping hazard.
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I have them in my enclosed trailer, they work well. Depending on your trailer frame you may need to beef up the mounting points a bit my crossmembers were pretty thin.

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tac1 said:
I have them in my enclosed trailer, they work well. Depending on your trailer frame you may need to beef up the mounting points a bit my crossmembers were pretty thin.
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Good to know. Any particular reason to use the bolt on over the weld-on?
 
Brake wiring.

In a day or two I'm going to rewire the brakes on my trailer, add a new 7-pin plug, and a new brake controller. I'm going to run new wire for the trailer brakes for peace of mind. Do the folks of irate4x4 have a preference for the gauge of THHN to run from the controller out to the brakes? I'm reading that 12ga for my 28' tip to tail trailer should be plenty, but others who suggest 10ga on everything.

What say you?
 
Each electric brake pulls 3-4 amps.
If you have 2 brakes a 14 or 16 gauge wire should be sufficient for both. If you have 4 brakes, I would go with a 10 or 12 gauge wire.
For lights, if you have LEDs, 16 should be plenty. I might go with 14 gauge just because, but 16 should be heavy enough.


Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Each electric brake pulls 3-4 amps.
If you have 2 brakes a 14 or 16 gauge wire should be sufficient for both. If you have 4 brakes, I would go with a 10 or 12 gauge wire.
For lights, if you have LEDs, 16 should be plenty. I might go with 14 gauge just because, but 16 should be heavy enough.


Aaron Z
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I was having a hard time figuring out how many amps each brake pulls. Thanks, 10ga it is.
 
This spring I added some Amazon LED pod lights to the neck of my gooseneck facing backwards. just wired them to run off the charge line in the junction box. mounted up high they throw quite a bit of light even with equipment/RZRs loaded on it. My trailer is a 82x24 equipment trailer so the uprights are out at the edges of the deck which helps. I think I am into the project about $35 between the water resistant toggle switch and the cheap Amazon LED pods. I'll add a pic when I get to my phone.
 
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