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Trailer Tips, Tricks and things you would change.

Brake wiring.

In a day or two I'm going to rewire the brakes on my trailer, add a new 7-pin plug, and a new brake controller. I'm going to run new wire for the trailer brakes for peace of mind. Do the folks of irate4x4 have a preference for the gauge of THHN to run from the controller out to the brakes? I'm reading that 12ga for my 28' tip to tail trailer should be plenty, but others who suggest 10ga on everything.

What say you?

One thing I have learned is to run home runs from the junction box on the neck to all the trailer breaks. Makes everything work much better. I also like to run grounds to the junction box and not the chassis. Makes a BIG difference diagnosing problems when the frame grounds start to give trouble.
 
One thing I have learned is to run home runs from the junction box on the neck to all the trailer breaks. Makes everything work much better. I also like to run grounds to the junction box and not the chassis. Makes a BIG difference diagnosing problems when the frame grounds start to give trouble.

You're saying one wire run for each brake drum? Dayum.
 
I added a truck toolbox between the uprights on my goose. Dad gave me the box and I was tired of not having any storage on the trailer for straps and chains. It sits below flush of the top of the neck so it theoretically is more aerodynamic. :laughing: Will add pics when I go out to my buddy's after work. I store the trailer at his place in the country.
 
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for my last utility trailer build I used the same junction box/breakaway system everyone has been using here. Put in dual pigtails though, so I can run a 7 pin (with 5k axle and big brakes) or 4 pin behind any other vehicle.

Round tube rub rails so I can run straps around them without fear of chafing.

Built dual bi-fold ramps for the rear for less drag at speed, and can run a lock through the pins when a vehicle is on it for extra security.

Cheap hand winch up front for beak downs or assists.

Lots of tie downs. LT tires.

A tongue box (not shown) for strap and block storage.

Best deck sealant out there is a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel. Cheap and easy, seals great..

Built this one off an old camper trailer. Used the rails and widened the axle 16". Relocated the springs and hangars as close to the tire as possible. The older trailers came with 5k axles (made out of solid 2" square bar!), 14" brakes and heavy frame rails. A lot of times you can haul them off for free. Saves a ton of cash to put one together.
 

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for my last utility trailer build I used the same junction box/breakaway system everyone has been using here. Put in dual pigtails though, so I can run a 7 pin (with 5k axle and big brakes) or 4 pin behind any other vehicle.
Why not add a bracket and put the battery/box on the inside of the tongue?

Aaron Z
 
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Spares mounted under the trailer. Nissan Frontier spare tire carriers are a compact chain design that have two bolt holes. Welded all thread to the winch and ran the all thread through side of trailer and welded a lug nut to it on each side.

I need to file this away if I ever go to a wood deck. I drilled 4 holes each through the steel deck for a pair of Tacoma hoists. Then drilled for a hitch pin so the rod is still removable. Bushing in the frame and lug nut welded on the end, so one tool change.

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Then run 1 on each side

Bumping this thread for more ideas. Just ordered a nissan pathfinder spare tire chain winch to do the same thing on my enclosed trailer. Cost $75, pretty cheap.

Anyone have any new bright ideas?
 
I have two trailers I want to easily be able to swap plates on. Both of them are going to have the plate mounted sideways on the fender. What's a good way to do this, where I won't loose it but I don't need tools to swap them
 
I have two trailers I want to easily be able to swap plates on. Both of them are going to have the plate mounted sideways on the fender. What's a good way to do this, where I won't loose it but I don't need tools to swap them
Some car dealers bolt magnets to their test drive plates. Easy swap, but doesn’t help sticky fingers.
 
Some car dealers bolt magnets to their test drive plates. Easy swap, but doesn’t help sticky fingers.
Yeah I want to do something that takes a bit longer to remove then magnets. I suppose I could use strong ones
 
I plan to do that soon, have the parts, just need to get the time.

Yeah I want to do something that takes a bit longer to remove then magnets. I suppose I could use strong ones
4 bolts with nuts/washers through the plate, 4 oversized holes in the fender, wingnuts on the inside of the fender.
Spin the wingnuts off, put it on the other trailer and off you go.
Don't get caught with the wrong VIN on the trailer vs the registration though...


Aaron Z
 
I plan to do that soon, have the parts, just need to get the time.


4 bolts with nuts/washers through the plate, 4 oversized holes in the fender, wingnuts on the inside of the fender.
Spin the wingnuts off, put it on the other trailer and off you go.
Don't get caught with the wrong VIN on the trailer vs the registration though...


Aaron Z

They are both 800lbs homemade trailers. There no vin on the registration, all it says is homemade trailer 800lbs. So these trailers are essentially the same.
 
NY and FL differ there, cant register a trailer without a VIN (from a MFG or assigned).

Aaron Z
in fl everything over 2000 lbs needs a vin and has to be inspected to be claimed homemade. if its under no vin is needed. you just go to the dmv with a certified weight and say its homemade.
 
in fl everything over 2000 lbs needs a vin and has to be inspected to be claimed homemade. if its under no vin is needed. you just go to the dmv with a certified weight and say its homemade.
NY requires any trailer that can haul something (ie: flatbed vs something like a cement mixer, chipper, etc) be plated. Would be nice if they did that.

Aaron Z
 
Flat glass. Not real sure what it came from, but it makes backing on to the ball real easy
 
After a few winters the threads on the lugs were looking a little rusty. Swapped them out for some that will keep them a little better protected.

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Thats fluidfilm on the hub/wheel/everything. I hate rust, but I love snowwheelin so the whole trailer gets coated in it.
 
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Hopefully those are solid lug nuts, not the ones with a shell like many OEMs use.
They look great until they get a little rust under the shell and then you cant get a socket onto them.

Aaron Z
 
Didn't know we had a topic for this.

Add a few things, that maybe obvious but help some

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LED drop ceiling lights are thin compact and diffuse light.
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Dewalt or whatever perrferd battery amazon special 20v to 12v adapter. Really nice when you're unhooked or don't have 120v and need lights. The switch is a on-off-on so you can also use 12v from the truck when connected.
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Cheap retrofitted amazon LED plug and twist light bulbs. Not great, but better filaments breaking.

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Think I posted this before, but a retractable cord real to supply power that is routed below the floor.
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Etrack spare tire mount finished today. Have no feedback on this
 
Saw a guy on YT build a drill adapter for the trailer jacks on his enclosed goose. Looked simple enough, so I made my own on the lathe. Sacrificed a drill bit for the shank, part of my cheater pipe, and a slug of steel. Fusion TIG'd the end of the drill shank to the inside of the slug, then reg TIG'd the upper part of the slug to the shank (I'm not good at TIG, I know).

Finally, welded the slug/shank to the piece of pipe, drilled a hole through, and it works a treat.

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Video I made explaining the settings of the trailer jacks, drill, and a demo with the trailer. Although there's no truck in the trailer at the filming, the trailer still weighs 10k.

 
RV flip up retractable steps and an RV flipp around grab handle on the gooseneck.

Definitely would recommend for anyone that uses their gooseneck for camper duties as well as general hauling.
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