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Trailer jacks.

granitestatedestroyer

granitestatedestroyer

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Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
457
Messages
284
Loc
Sunny Sequim, WA
What are good ones?

I fucking hate the china one that came on my trailer.

It's the kind with the triangular bolt patterns that goes through the coupler.

The crank is difficult and I cannot open my tailgate with it.

What are the good ones that clamp or weld on to an 8" trailer frame so I can move it back? Or ate there low profile coupler styles?

Electric would be nice, but a quality crank one would be great as well.
 
Square drop leg, top handle is easier to manipulate, but side handle has some gear reduction and is easier to lift with wieght. For the ~$40 I'll pull that 3 bolt pos first thing when I buy a trailer. Plus like you said move it back away from the tailgate.

Drop leg, drop leg, drop leg
 
CarolinaCrawler said:
Their not rated for much, but I've always wanted to try one of these drop leg jacks. I know it sounds like lazy, but damn I hate having to bend over and and lower and lift that damn foot.

Ultra-Tow XTP Fast Action Square Tube Trailer Jack 2000-Lb., Topwind, Tube Mount, Weld-On | Northern Tool

This revolutionary Ultra-Tow® XTP trailer jack is engineered with a unique fast-action step-down base for quick ha...
www.northerntool.com www.northerntool.com
Click to expand...
That'll be handy. I'd get it.

If it fails. I'd get bully dog with top wind and drop leg
 
old trailer had a bulldog with the side crank and I loved it. super easy to lift up and down. Downside was that it got too close to the tailgate if the gate was down. and I couldn't see the trailer without the tailgate down because the truck is lifted. So I'd have to take my tailgate off if I really had to do some maneuvering

current trailer has one set back from the tongue a bit that rotates up and out of the way when not in use. I like that aspect and that it doesn't even come close to the tailgate, but it has a top crank and I don't like that
 
IMO Best place for a bulldog style jack on a TAG trailer is right where the tongue meets the front bar of the trailer, like this. Can't put a toolbox against the front of the trailer on the tongue, but other than that, it's ideal for tailgate clearance, lifting effort, etc. The bulldog ones just get welded on, or you can weld on bolt flanges to the jack+trailer.

1651674376149.png


Second best is a crossmember halfway back on the tongue for the bulldog jack. Should still be enough room for the tailgate when the trailer is square to the truck, and gives you room for a toolbox as well:

1651674448817.png
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Square drop leg, top handle is easier to manipulate, but side handle has some gear reduction and is easier to lift with wieght. For the ~$40 I'll pull that 3 bolt pos first thing when I buy a trailer. Plus like you said move it back away from the tailgate.

Drop leg, drop leg, drop leg
Click to expand...
I like the side winder drop leg the best.

The top wind usually seize up from water trickling down the threaded rod. Side winders have a cap to keep the water out.

I welded on a spring loaded pin, so I pull the pin and the drop leg drops to the ground and then I start cranking and the pin finds the first hole and the trailer starts going up. Quick and easy :smokin:
 
I like Bulldog and I really like hydraulic jacks, I used the Stillwell from Bailey Surplus recently and it's awesome, don't even use the manual the hand crank anymore unless we are loading equipment in the dump trailer.
www.baileyhydraulics.com

Stillwell 7K Hydraulic Trailer Jack

Stillwell hydraulic trailer jacks are designed as a quality alternative to traditional jacks. The 7K Tradesman jack provides greater lift force and faster extension than electric and manual jacks. This 7K jack is used in bumper hitch trailer applications.Designed for rugged environments and easy...
www.baileyhydraulics.com www.baileyhydraulics.com

Either way if you go with a center mount 10k spring return drop leg this little gem is awesome addition.

1652058442991.png
 
CarterKraft said:
I like Bulldog and I really like hydraulic jacks, I used the Stillwell from Bailey Surplus recently and it's awesome, don't even use the manual the hand crank anymore unless we are loading equipment in the dump trailer.
www.baileyhydraulics.com

Stillwell 7K Hydraulic Trailer Jack

Stillwell hydraulic trailer jacks are designed as a quality alternative to traditional jacks. The 7K Tradesman jack provides greater lift force and faster extension than electric and manual jacks. This 7K jack is used in bumper hitch trailer applications.Designed for rugged environments and easy...
www.baileyhydraulics.com www.baileyhydraulics.com

Either way if you go with a center mount 10k spring return drop leg this little gem is awesome addition.

1652058442991.png
Click to expand...


Next time you do a drop leg, look into the dual pin, much easier that trying to pull and twist that single pin. Have on on my 14k trailer, step through the tongue and onto the foot, flip the bail and push down. same for coming back up.

TJDDP-20000SP-F.png
 
JunkCJ6 said:
Next time you do a drop leg, look into the dual pin, much easier that trying to pull and twist that single pin. Have on on my 14k trailer, step through the tongue and onto the foot, flip the bail and push down. same for coming back up.

TJDDP-20000SP-F.png
Click to expand...
Thats the problem, if you put a tool box on the front you can't step through.
 
I might steel that foot step deal, but really I just want to push a button :laughing:

My trailer is a hydraulic tilt, so it has a fullsize battery and a hydraulic pump already there. What's easier? Adding an electric motor to the existing jack, or adding a hydraulic jack to the existing pump?

I figured if I add a hydraulic jack, I'd have to have some type of diverting valves at the pump, which sounds like a pain in the ass and kinda defeats the convience of it. Unless I'm missing something?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I might steel that foot step deal, but really I just want to push a button :laughing:

My trailer is a hydraulic tilt, so it has a fullsize battery and a hydraulic pump already there. What's easier? Adding an electric motor to the existing jack, or adding a hydraulic jack to the existing pump?

I figured if I add a hydraulic jack, I'd have to have some type of diverting valves at the pump, which sounds like a pain in the ass and kinda defeats the convience of it. Unless I'm missing something?
Click to expand...
All the videos I’ve seen is a 1/4 turn valve off the pump. Current tilt power or gravity down?

Edit: seeing 1/4 turn double circuit valves listed. Kits add up fast though for jack/valve/hoses.
 
RPS1030 said:
All the videos I’ve seen is a 1/4 turn valve off the pump. Current tilt power or gravity down?

Edit: seeing 1/4 turn double circuit valves listed. Kits add up fast though for jack/valve/hoses.
Click to expand...

Power down.

That was my thought also, the jack price is only the beginning.

Years ago, my work had a trailer with an electric motor added to the 10k drop leg, used the shit out of it for years without issue. I haven't found the same set up yet.
 
You just need a ram with a big enough piston that it won't bend.

Add a couple 3 port valves and some hoses and you are set.
 
On the hydraulic ram side of things, does this dump trailer have power down? If so surplus Center has a selector valve for $50 that will let you switch back and forth between dumping the trailer and lifting and lowering the jack: Gresen DS-12 Double Selector Valve | Selector Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
Add a half dozen adapters to go from that to whatever size lines go to the hydraulic cylinders and the pump and you should be able to do the plumbing side for under $120, not sure what they have right now for cylinders, but I'm sure they'll have something.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Bulldog makes one for their 12K jacks: https://www.etrailer.com/p-BD1824180100.html


Aaron Z
Click to expand...

You're right, that looks like the exact one we had. I guess I misspoke, I found it, but it seems overpriced to me :laughing:

aczlan said:
On the hydraulic ram side of things, does this dump trailer have power down? If so surplus Center has a selector valve for $50 that will let you switch back and forth between dumping the trailer and lifting and lowering the jack: Gresen DS-12 Double Selector Valve | Selector Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
Add a half dozen adapters to go from that to whatever size lines go to the hydraulic cylinders and the pump and you should be able to do the plumbing side for under $120, not sure what they have right now for cylinders, but I'm sure they'll have something.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...

Yes, power down.

That valve looks perfect and wouldn't be a big deal at all really.

My other thought was to to more of a uhaul style hinged deal with a regular cheapo ram. Should be cheaper and should be able to be lower profile.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You're right, that looks like the exact one we had. I guess I misspoke, I found it, but it seems overpriced to me :laughing:



Yes, power down.

That valve looks perfect and wouldn't be a big deal at all really.

My other thought was to to more of a uhaul style hinged deal with a regular cheapo ram. Should be cheaper and should be able to be lower profile.
Click to expand...
That would probably work well, my only concern would be that it will want to "walk" the trailer forward or backwards as you lift and lower it so it may not stay centered on the ball front back.

Aaron Z
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I might steel that foot step deal, but really I just want to push a button :laughing:

My trailer is a hydraulic tilt, so it has a fullsize battery and a hydraulic pump already there. What's easier? Adding an electric motor to the existing jack, or adding a hydraulic jack to the existing pump?

I figured if I add a hydraulic jack, I'd have to have some type of diverting valves at the pump, which sounds like a pain in the ass and kinda defeats the convience of it. Unless I'm missing something?
Click to expand...
This is the way. $240 is a no brainer to me. Add a $20 wireless remote and you are a instant rock hauler :laughing:
www.baileyhydraulics.com

Stillwell 7K Trailer Jack Kit

This packaged kit includes all the items necessary to install a hydraulic 7K jack onto a hydraulically operated bumper hitch trailer. The kit also includes detail instructions to make the installation process simple and straight-forward. Requires existing power unit (HPU) and battery for...
www.baileyhydraulics.com www.baileyhydraulics.com
 
rockyota83 said:
then you do what i just did and offset the jack to the side of the tongue, makes getting your foot on the pad and pulling the pin much easier
Click to expand...
All the options are better than what I did on that trailer, I did not put the jack on that trailer just tried to make it easier to use.
 
CarterKraft said:
This is the way. $240 is a no brainer to me. Add a $20 wireless remote and you are a instant rock hauler :laughing:
www.baileyhydraulics.com

Stillwell 7K Trailer Jack Kit

This packaged kit includes all the items necessary to install a hydraulic 7K jack onto a hydraulically operated bumper hitch trailer. The kit also includes detail instructions to make the installation process simple and straight-forward. Requires existing power unit (HPU) and battery for...
www.baileyhydraulics.com www.baileyhydraulics.com
Click to expand...

Thats not bad at all. I just need to figure out how to not have it hang down too much without a drop leg.

I need to figure out an easy swapped wireless remote so I can use it at work also. :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Thats not bad at all. I just need to figure out how to not have it hang down too much without a drop leg.

I need to figure out an easy swapped wireless remote so I can use it at work also. :laughing:
Click to expand...
On the one I did there was wayyy more than enough stroke to have the foot plate slightly above the drop leg jack foot and still raise the tongue to crazy heights

It is a 24" travel cylinder
 
Last edited:
CarterKraft said:
All the options are better than what I did on that trailer, I did not put the jack on that trailer just tried to make it easier to use.
Click to expand...
i wanted to offset the jack for his trailer because the pin and foot pad were hard to get to, i built him a tool box for the tongue thats very tall so i could get a winch inside and still have room, the box was so tall i HAD to offset the jack to clear the side wind handle on the jack so it worked out great :laughing:
 
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