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Dumptruck.the.wookie

Dumptruck.the.wookie

High Hopes, Low Standards
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Member Number
2417
Messages
185
Loc
Littleton,CO
Spare parts build for my brother is coming together. 1 rolled 97 4runner plus 1 87 Sami shell.
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balls
 
I like the concept. I had kinda a similar idea as the 3rd Gen 4runner is a great platform.

I'd think really long and hard about moving the body back though. Looks like those 30s are going to rub.

Actually, if it were mine, I'd probably suck it up and move the whole drivetrain back ~6" too.
 
The body is still movable thankfully. Im think 32-33" max diameter. Brother is finally back in town so now we can play with fitting. Hes 6'2" 220lbs. I have a great opportunity to get head clearance and pedal distance on point. Sliders help obviously. I will likely trim body to clear tires along with moving thhe body more.
 
15 on factory brakes? Thinking of going to 16s. 235 85 16 seems like a good idea for longevity. It will live most of its life on the road. I dont wanna gear it yet. Im cheap....
 
You can switch to 4cyl tacoma brakes for 15s, or run spacers.

Who puts a samurai on a Toyota frame and runs highway tires? What is the purpose of this build anyway?

With the wieght reduction, you probably won't need gearing.
 
I want a truck for my brother that is rad and reliable. Thats it.
It will be his work truck/weekend warrior/whateverthehellhewants....

Samurai=Rad. Many may argue, dont give a shit
4runner=Reliable. parts available at stores everywhere. In stock form, very capable and last annoyingly long.

When building up my Sidekick I noticed what most people notice, that Toyota parts under a Suzuki tend to make more sense(as I put a Sami axle in my Sidekick....) Why bother going through all the effort of hybridizing the Sami with toyota bits underneath, when I can just put a Zuki hat on a good 3rd gen chassis. Especially when said parts are simply taking up room ATM.

Im a sucker for some good PizzaCutters. Esp with IFS. Not against a stagger tho. Ive always been curious about an 85 sidewall as far as ride quality goes. At just under 32" I think it would look good under the Sami and not be so heavy they kill mileage or wear out steering parts. I really do want to focus on the reliability side of things. The rad seems to be coming naturally.

I'm thinking something like this...but betterer
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Gotcha, I just realized that you put it in other builds. I thought it was going to be more off road.

I have a Sami and a 3rd Gen runner, so I totally get the positivesnand negatives of each.

Like I said, I really like the idea, I had kinda a similar idea for a cheap, light, go fastish build. I was thinking of running 37s though. With rcv's in the front an being lightweight, I'd bet it would hold up well.

Aren't 235/85s mostly going to be 10 ply tires?

If that's what you're after, get some 33x10.5 At's. With how light it will be, I'd really try to avoid 10 ply tires, as they will make it ride shitty. 15s will fit with different rotors and calipers. They came stock on many tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners. They will literally ask you when you buy brakes if it has 15s or 16s.

There is also 255/85r16s, but I'd bet they are all going to be 10 ply too.
 
Definitely appreciate the input.
I didnt think about the 10 ply point. This thing wont weigh much at all. 10 ply would negate the tall sidewall squishyness methinks.
I have so much tire stickout, I was really trying to avoid spacers. Looking at the clearance to the upper control arm, a 255 might just fit, depending on how aggressive the sidewall is.
I may need upper arms anyway if i dont get more weight on this thing. Shes all cambered out like my zuk ATM. All in good time I spose.
 
Dumptruck.the.wookie said:
Definitely appreciate the input.
I didnt think about the 10 ply point. This thing wont weigh much at all. 10 ply would negate the tall sidewall squishyness methinks.
I have so much tire stickout, I was really trying to avoid spacers. Looking at the clearance to the upper control arm, a 255 might just fit, depending on how aggressive the sidewall is.
I may need upper arms anyway if i dont get more weight on this thing. Shes all cambered out like my zuk ATM. All in good time I spose.
Click to expand...
I run 285s on stock 4runner wheels, they rub, but meh.

You won't need spacers if you go to the smaller brakes.
 
This build is going to be cool, can't wait to see what you guys come up with. :smokin:


Edit: Bushwacker cut out flares would solve your stick out problem in the front.
 
The flares ideas have been tossed around. Im cheap and not afraid of fiberglass. Already plans for a top and rear cap so materials will be around.

I am warming to the spacer idea. I have some 1.25s on my other brothers truck. I may try to find some 3/4's and play around. After further discussion with some buddies I think we will go with something closer to 285s. Hopefully a 3/4 will be enough. Otherwise Ill try his 1.25s and if it looks retarded, We'll put the 285s on his toyota and try something else.

I spend more time thinking about tires than I do anything else...

Gathering materials for all the metal work currently. I have everything to connect to two bodies. Now I just need some rec tube for the bed main structure and headache rack/roll bar thingy.
 
I'd buy those Chinese Ironmans before those recaps. It says in the ad that the recommended tire pressure is MINIMUM 65psi... I bet those things peel apart with the slightest hint of heat in them hence why they give a minimum PSI...... No thanks
 
You don't need spacers......
Dumptruck.the.wookie said:
The flares ideas have been tossed around. Im cheap and not afraid of fiberglass. Already plans for a top and rear cap so materials will be around.

I am warming to the spacer idea. I have some 1.25s on my other brothers truck. I may try to find some 3/4's and play around. After further discussion with some buddies I think we will go with something closer to 285s. Hopefully a 3/4 will be enough. Otherwise Ill try his 1.25s and if it looks retarded, We'll put the 285s on his toyota and try something else.

I spend more time thinking about tires than I do anything else...

Gathering materials for all the metal work currently. I have everything to connect to two bodies. Now I just need some rec tube for the bed main structure and headache rack/roll bar thingy.
Click to expand...
I've been running 285s for like 4 years, 2 different sets of tires. No issues.

Again, watch for 10 ply tires. You can get some 285s in 6 ply though. Aren't those 17s in the pics?
 
Fuck 16s, I'm kinda married to them on my F350 and they are just getting less and less common.

Either switch brakes and run 15s or run the 17s in the Pic. I know there is a few decent options for 33x10.5s. Or 32x10 utv take offs :flipoff2:
 
Had an idea for the door sills/rockers. Kinda worked. Trying to use material I have laying around. The intention was to rip some 1x3 .125 wall to support the sill. Then add some 1.5x1.5 to support the rocker below and create the pocket for the door.
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I ripped my tube and it warped. Shoulda seen that coming.
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So I tacked them to a stick of 3x3 and added the 1.5. Kinda worked. They're straight enough now.
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Tacked into place on the sills and whats left of the rockers.
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I had the body flipped on its lid to prep all the metal and attach new metal. 1tons and foolsizes are rad but, one-manning an entire body makes you feel 10ft tall...
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And some 285 75 16 Ironman ATs to piss the world off. I love the 5 spoke steelies and the amount of sidewall makes it look less Hotwheelsie...
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14" ground clearance with zero weight up front. Im gonna need a 20k winch just to bring the front end back down....
 
You going to run the valve cores out on them for a half decent ride? :flipoff2:I

Your rockers are interesting, good call just going with thicker stuff at the same time. I've also tried ripping tubing many times, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

I am running "factory" rock sliders :laughing: and plan to cut them off and replace with tube. Luckily, I'm not dealing with rust, so I don't think I'll need to get any more crazy than some 2x2 tubing.

Did you really have to ditch the entire floor? Or planning on putting most of it back?
 
I wanted to keep the yota steering column, pedals and shifter so i dunno. Made sense at the time. Toyota floor is in much better shape rust wise I suppose. I dunno. Im wingin this thing
 
I was almost thinking that putting the toyota floor and fire wall in there might make sense. Depending on how things line up
 
Heat the tube glowing red and let it cool slowly before you rip it. Bigger tubes can be a pain to get hot enough but it helps.
 
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