Token the 2001 TJ

[rustybottoms88]

Doing more A/C research, the 97-99 TJ uses a different condenser coil, different style fittings. The Dakota hose will not fit your 2000 and up condenser. Rockauto has the earlier style condenser for under $50. The earlier liquid line is different because of the fitting, too. Rockauto sells them.

The aluminum dischrge hose tubes could probably be tig welded together using part of the old discharge hose.

If you have to cut and weld, it might be possible to mate the ZJ hoses to the old TJ fittings and reuse them. Most A/C specialty shops and some good parts stores have A/C hose crimping machines and you can have new hoses crimped onto the fittings to mate them. You could reuse the ZJ compressor that way.

2002 and newer use a different evaporator core, too.

Great information. Thank you again!

 

[rustybottoms88]

More A/C info!

the 1994-1995 Dakota 2.5l 4 Cylinder Receiver drier mentioned above should allow it to fit in front of the battery tray. A bracket should be made to hold it to either the front of the tray or the inner fender. The hose to the evaporator coil should be long enough to let it clear the battery tray and valve cover.

The suction/discharge hose fits a 1995 or 1996 Dakota V6, right angled side fits to the receiver drier vertical outlet fitting:

The Compressor fits a (roughly) 94 to 02 Magnum V6 or V8 Dakota or Ram truck, fittings on top to match the hose:

Is this compressor smaller than the ZJ a/c compressor? I am having issues with the upper radiator hose clearing the a/c compressor. I even moved the radiator up an inch from where Summit has it. I am using a trimmed ZJ upper radiator hose.

 

[rustybottoms88]

Alright alittle more progess. I mounted up the t-case and it was clocked to far down. I dont know if it was because my stock skid plate is so bent(bolt holes on frame wont line up) or what but I ordered a clock ring from Great Lakes Offroad. They shipped quickly and it fit. I used the first stud mounting hole. It clocked it just almost flat. I figure I gained an 1.5" clearance over stock.

With a Big hammer tapping on the tub I think I can gain another 1/2 inch. I ordered a Barnes 4WD 2 inch drop skid plate. I am still waiting on my SCT tuner and tune. In the mean time I have got the heater hoses hooked up. I used the ZJ heater hose for the feed line from the water pump to the heater core. It worked really nice, just had to extend it alittle. I got a Gates lower rad hose that fit perfect, part number 22287. I tried to use the ZJ upper rad hose but i am running in to clearance issues with the a/c compressor. Also, it looks like I am going to have to have the front driveshaft lengthen and the rear shortened. I think thats its for now!

 

[Marty SoCal]

The ZJ and Dodge compressors use the same clutch, you probably would run into the same rubbing. The radiator I was using might have the inlet over more to the drivers side. You might be able to fabricate a metal shield over the top of the compressor clutch that bolts to the front compressor mounts or try to find a different hose that will work better.

 

[rustybottoms88]

Ok I better update before I get totally lost. So about the upper radiator hose, I got a hose from a 1999 Dodge 1500 Ram and it has come the closest to fitting. I think I am going to splice in a 90* elbow just before the radiator port. I got the Barnes 4WD 2" drop skid plate mounted.

I made a transmission mount using the AX5 rubber mount and plate from the TJ, the plate that bolts to the bottom of the 46RH from the ZJ and a piece I cut out of the TJ original skidplate, with some angle iron mixxed in for hackery points.

What you see above is the piece cut out of the TJ skidplate with angle iron welded to it. This bolts to the skidplate from the bottom using allen head bolts recessed into the skidpate so they wont hand up on anything.The upper side bolts to the AX5 rubber mount. The AX5 rubber mount bolts to the AX5 mounting plate/ZJ46RH mounting plate fused together and bolted to the 46RH.
Two of the skidpate mounting points on the frame were stripped out so ordered new weld in bungs. The original bungs were held in by two tack welds. I managed to get the new ones welded in using an arc welder and burned minimal holes in the rusty stock frame.

I used PowerTrain industries out of Springfield, Missouri to build my driveshafts. $175 and they will change the length of and reblance your existing shafts. The front shaft was so much longer(11") that they recommended going to a bigger diameter shaft. $300 made from scratch. The rear shaft just was not doable, I am going to have to move the rear axle back 3 to 5 inches.......

 

[rustybottoms88]

So now I am pretty certain I am going to have to buy a Genright tank that will allow me to keep the fuel tank on the underside of the jeep while making room for moving the rear axle back 3 to 5". Like this one:

In other news my tuner came in today, 6 weeks from order date.....I hope he got the program right. This should delete my key security issue as well as a few other things.

I am going to run the transmission lines and button up the upper rad hose before I fire it off.
Thats it for now. Not sure if all of this made sense but thanks for following along.

 

[rustybottoms88]

I'll be at Rocktober in Cass this weekend. Sadly not in this Jeep.

 

[Sandy Johnson]

Next thing, I was tired of having the spare tire take up the all the storage in the back of the Jeep. I needed to put a seat back there for my little one to ride with me as well. I really don't like tire carriers but this one caught my eye and was cheap.....and the lady was selling a steel rear bumper with it.

I'm late to the party, but who makes that carrier or is it home made? That's badass and I'd rather buy one pre-built like that than have to do math to make my own.

 

[rustybottoms88]

I'm late to the party, but who makes that carrier or is it home made? That's badass and I'd rather buy one pre-built like that than have to do math to make my own.

Here it is. https://www.unlimitedoffroad.com/pr...ep-wrangler-tj-unlimited-yj-black-each-bestop
I highly recommend using it with corner armor as it will put stress on the corner Sheetmetal. I bought mine second hand an the lady i bought it from had ripped the sheetmetal on hers. Other then that I love it, it doesn't rattle.

 

[Sandy Johnson]

Here it is. https://www.unlimitedoffroad.com/pr...ep-wrangler-tj-unlimited-yj-black-each-bestop
I highly recommend using it with corner armor as it will put stress on the corner Sheetmetal. I bought mine second hand an the lady i bought it from had ripped the sheetmetal on hers. Other then that I love it, it doesn't rattle.

Right on, thanks!

 

[Dan_Goodwin]

I'm also looking at clocking my transfer case instead of a motor mount lift - why is the shop saying the rear shaft can't be made? Is that why you're looking at the stretch?

 

[rustybottoms88]

I'm also looking at clocking my transfer case instead of a motor mount lift - why is the shop saying the rear shaft can't be made? Is that why you're looking at the stretch?

He said he can not make a working driveshaft as short as required. I had my doubts when I sent the driveshaft to him. The length of the V8 and the auto tranmission added about 11 inches. So yes thats why I am looking at stretching the rear. I really wish I didn't have to do it because basically I would be about done with this swap if it was not for that. I havent seen where anyone else has had this issue. Not sure what the difference is for me. I have a 8.25 rear axle and its been 4 linked so maybe its forward from the stock position? In other news I loaded the tune and the the engine runs now. Now to plumb the upper rad hose and tramission lines. I have not touched it in a couple weeks. I am going to have to make myself work on it. A heater and roomy shop would help.

 

[Dan_Goodwin]

Any updates on this one?

 

[rustybottoms88]

Any updates on this one?

Hey Dan. Thank for checking in with me. I have been slacking big time on this thread and the Jeep too. I have driven it around town in front wheel drive because I haven't sorted the rear driveshaft yet. It runs great. I will update this week with pics. For now here is a video.

 

[rustybottoms88]

I priced AN fittings and shielded hose for the transmission lines and I could not talk myself in to spending that much on it for now so I got rubber lines, barbed fittings and heat shield fof the hoses. It will for for now.

I spliced together a upper radiator hose. Its not going to work as the fan does make contact with it when You close the hood. I am going to have to sort that out with a new neck on the radiator or something.

As mentioned before the rear driveshaft doesn't fit but I have driven it around in FWD and it runs and shifts great. I bought this kit to get the overdrive on the 46RH working but I have not installed it yet. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...ick-here-for-727-to-46rh-swap-wiring-diagram/
It has been at a stand still. With warmer weather and more motivation I plan to get back to work on it. First will be to see about moving the rear axle farther rearward by about 3 to 5 inches. Again this will probably require a new gas tank but I will see what it looks like before I spend the money I dont have on that. One issue I can think of at the moment is that I can not start it with the key. I believe it is due to the neutral safety switch not being wired. I may sort that out later but for now it has a push button to start it.

 

[rustybottoms88]

Okay so the nice weather and high gas prices (my truck gets 13mpg) have motivated me to get back on this project. First order of business cut out the rear frame rust and weld in patch section. I dropped the rear axle and fuel tank.

I then cut all the brackets off because I am putting on new with the rear stretch.

Next i checked fit of the patch panels.

Then I cut it. Lots of rust fell out. I also took vacuum and sucked all the dirt out I could and then sprayed rust converter up into the frame as far as I could.

The hole. This will be repeated on both sides. I acutally ended up taking out alittle bit more then what you see here. Instructions say you can cut to within an inch of the patch panel.

 

[rustybottoms88]

I sold my parts ZJ that the 5.2L engine that is now in the TJ came out of for $300 so I recouped some money. Before I let it go I grabbed the disc brakes off the rear of the D35. They say the disc brake setup off the D35 will bolt to the 8.25. While I have the axle out I may go ahead and mount them up since I am going to have to probably do some extending/reworking of the rear brake line anyway with the rear stretch. Here is the axle. It has a iron rock truss. Dont know much else about the setup.

 

[rustybottoms88]

Time for a update and before I forget I reworked the upper rad hose with different hose and its clearing the fan now, really kind of of temporary. Also the disc brakes off the D35 fit on the 8.25.

But I got the frame repair panels welded in and then I started fitting in the Barnes 4wd rear stretch kit. I basically put the rear axle where my rear drive shaft fit best and decided to put it there. Not the best approach but I figured I had the driveshaft as short as it could be so it was going to have to work. Alot of measuring from side to side. i did my best to fit it square and get it the same on both sides. The instructions were good but you really have to just fit it best you can. Its a good solid kit.

For the upper mounts I took the mounts and cut them to fit and moved them up flush with the bottom of the frame rail so they would not be hanging down catching on rocks. I think it messed with my anit-squat alittle but I can address that later with my some longer lower links if needed.

 

[rustybottoms88]

So with the axle living in its new home It ws clear the stock gas tank was not going to fit. So instead of putting the gas tank in the rear of the tub I decided to use my Biden money and buy a new rear gas tank that would fit. Great quality tank.

So with that sorted It was time to get some shocks in place and it was tight! I considered out boarding them but then I would be cutting into stuff I just welded in and I opted to move the lower mounts and as luck with have it I got my Bilstein's to fit. I didn't want them hanging down hitting rocks so I rotated them up and my up travel it quite limited. Something I will address later but I want to get a few runs in on this setup first. Barnes 4WD drive parts again. They are reasonable priced and good quality stuff.

End product

 

[rustybottoms88]

So when I took this thing out in October it did great except for the limited up travel on the rear and my Tcase make bad noises in 2high and 4 high. So I pulled the Tcase out and took it apart. I noticed some movement in the input within the planetary gear set. If you remember I pulled the input out of the NP249 and stuck it in the NP231. It was also leaking pretty bad around the input seal. I took the input and planetary to a local drivetrain shop and he ended up telling me to just bring in the rest of the Tcase in so he could make sure everything else was okay. He put in a 6 gear planetary and put it it all back together for $250 so I figured that was fair. I hope to get the Tcase installed over the weekend. While the Tcase was out I did some research to try and get the NSS switch on the transmission to communicate with the ECM. This is what I came up with.

I had to buy the male C154 connector to plugin to the Tj side of the harness and wired it to the NSS on the 46RH. This did allow me to start the Jeep with the key. Part number to the Male C154 connector is
Mouser #:
649-54200413 or

Mfr. #:​

54200413​

Here is how I wired the pigtail.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

You should just take that radiator to a rad shop and have them re neck it. It wont cost much at all.

I raised my engine 2” and my a pulley almost rubs my hose. I just wrapped my hose with an old hose but i am going to wrap it in some thin steel in between the hoses just in case. It does not rub much or very often but just in case. I have some aluminum TJ rad in mine.

This rad might actually work with your swap but re necking is cheap and better.

 

[rustybottoms88]

You should just take that radiator to a rad shop and have them re neck it. It wont cost much at all.

I raised my engine 2” and my a pulley almost rubs my hose. I just wrapped my hose with an old hose but i am going to wrap it in some thin steel in between the hoses just in case. It does not rub much or very often but just in case. I have some aluminum TJ rad in mine.

This rad might actually work with your swap but re necking is cheap and better.

Thanks, ya the water pump finally starting puking coolant out of the front seal so I am going to do timing chain, water pump and while I have the radiator out I am going to have the upper hose neck redone. I also plan to get the a/c condensor in and get all the a/c components back in.

 

[rustybottoms88]

I reworked my rear shock barpin eliminators to try to gain alittle more up travel.
Eliminator that I started with:

Cut and weld:

Pin for the upper shock mounting hole:

Installed:

I gained probably two inches. Not much I know but when the shock travel is only 8" I guess its somewhat significant. This was just an experiment and they may rip/bend into pieces the first trail run but I don't have much invested.

 

[rustybottoms88]

With alittle more travel on the rear shocks I decided to get rid of the 2" lift pucks in the rear so I could move the upper coil spring retaining plate up away from the bump stop, thus netting me more up travel.. The upper coil spring retaining plate is also the bump stop landing pad. I ordered up Skyjacker 2.5" lift dual rate springs.

Installed:

It may sit alittle higher in the rear with these springs.

Next post will probably be of waterpump and timing set R&R and possibly a/c install.

 

[rustybottoms88]

This is the 1994-95 V6/V8 Dakota Drier.

I had to cut the curly cue inlet line off the top about 1" up before the bend, then cut the tube again, just past the first 90* bend from the inlet o-ring fitting and weld it to the stub on top of the drier so it would fit between the battery tray and the valve cover. The tube ends up about being centered on top of the drier pointing to the firewall evaporator outlet. The drier hangs down below the evaporator inlet/outlet tubes. I trial fitted it all with the battery and engine in place, tack welded it, removed it and gas welded the tubes together on the bench. No leaks. A very tight fit when done, though. Make sure to remove the o-rings when welding or they will most likely melt!

I had to slot the battery tray holes and move the tray and battery as far to the passenger side as possible to get clearance. I welded a tab to mount the drier to with a stainless hose clamp.

Using the 4 cylinder drier with the hose mentioned above should make all this work unnecessary. I saw the Dakota 4 cylinder setup in a junk yard AFTER installing the V6 one.

I'm working on the a/c now. Can you take a picture of how things are arranged under your hood. Especially how you modified your stock condenser to drier line. Also want to see where how you mount the drier.

 

[Dan_Goodwin]

I've only test fit my setup, but used all factory parts for AC. It's a tight fit between the valve cover and battery, but I'll make it work. I'm using factory 1997 TJ condenser and liquid line and the donor (1999 Ram) compressor. The rest was from a 1996 Dakota V6:

1996 Dakota 3.9L Compressor Hoses: UAC HA111284C
1996 Dakota 3.9L Drier: GPD 1411515

 

[Dan_Goodwin]

I've only test fit my setup, but used all factory parts for AC. It's a tight fit between the valve cover and battery, but I'll make it work. I'm using factory 1997 TJ condenser and liquid line and the donor (1999 Ram) compressor. The rest was from a 1996 Dakota V6:

1996 Dakota 3.9L Compressor Hoses: UAC HA111284C
1996 Dakota 3.9L Drier: GPD 1411515

This setup ended up not clearing the battery. Back to the drawing board.

 

[rustybottoms88]

Well I almost have my a/c in. Just have to get a custom high pressure hose made going from compressor to condenser. I used stock dryer mount bolted to fender with the Dodge Dakota dryer.

Hose is close to manifold but I think I will wrap it.

Had the radiator inlet moved as far over to driver side as possible. Was able to fit stock 4.0 fan shroud with trimming.

 

[rustybottoms88]

Well I took the high pressure a/c line in to get the appropriate ends welded on and they were dissimilar metals so that's been on hold. Back in Oct. I took the Jeep down to Byrds Adventure center for Rocktober like I do every year. As many of you may have guessed my frame side rear suspension mounts were not adequate and I ripped one side plum off by the end of the weekend. The other side was twisting as well. Lesson learned.

 

[rustybottoms88]

So I ordered up some new proper frame side mounts from Barnes 4WD. Used this one for the upper linkmount.

I took this opportunity to make the lower links longer. Got the link material and bungs from Barnes as well. I almost got the mounts burnt in and then ran outta wire....thats usually how it goes.