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TJ Rubicon Rear Dana 44 constant problems need opinions

Beat95yj said:
My thoughts:

JK rear Dana 44 housings are almost free. I have had a couple of friends give them away because they could not sell them. The ring and pinion are much improved over the bullshit TJ 44. Get some 35 spline shaft from carbon and party. Maybe add a truss.

Carbon did talk me out of the 44 and into a currie Hi pinion 60 for my build. Because of my tire size.
(38) and the fact that my friends that wanted to borrow the jeeps peel out real hard. The stiffness of the 60 housing is a big improvement.

I don’t know why you think currie can’t match your bolt pattern. One of my very close friends has the same axle in his TJ, the only difference from mine is he’s 5 on 5 1/2. My jeep only has about 1000 highway miles on it, his has closer to 20,000. I don’t think he’s ever opened it up except to change the oil before a trip.

SF 9 or 60 would be my choice. The main difference between the two is the gears. Typically the outersare set 10 or set 20 on either.
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I don’t really get the point of going to JK axles and upgrading since both the width and the bolt pattern are different than a TJ. They are 65.5” wide. You’re damned close to 1 tons at that point.

You’re already buying new wheels at that point, man up and put in 1 tons.
 
fl0w3n said:
I was surprised to see Dave throw another 9" housing back in and not at least truss it after what he did to the stock housing, although he didn't really go over the specs of the housing he had made.


I like my 8.8 for the price, but I haven't put it through much abuse yet, so not sure how much that's worth. I should probably truss it before it spins the tubes
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I asked him about that- gas tank clearance was the main factor in no truss.
 
Just to add nothing of value...

The isuzu and 8.8 have the same clearance, roughly 5.5" from center of tube to bottom of diff.

if you're front 44 is living... then a rear 44 would be fine. Isuzu housing (60.5 or 63) with 35 spline shafts and JK R&P.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Does the Isuzu axle have an advantage of the TJ D44 besides a few inches in width.
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TrailTamer said:
I am wondering the same.... such as tube OD and wall thickness??
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Yes, the tubes are noticeably bigger and the casting looks burlier too. No idea on the wall thickness.

I've got one in the shop under a work bench, will pull it out and get some shots for the IBB.

I got this one to do as a TJ project for a friend. Will do a vid on it when we start on that one.
 
I still don't see what the advantage of the Isuzu D44 is over his current D44?

Edit: was too slow.

Is that the one that takes Jk44 r&p without the Jana kit?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I still don't see what the advantage of the Isuzu D44 is over his current D44?

Edit: was too slow.

Is that the one that takes Jk44 r&p without the Jana kit?
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98+ isuzu is 63" wide, 3" tubes, 'JK style' r&p.

96-97 is 60.5 and regular D44 but thick gears.

<95 is 58.5", same as 96-97

All 6x5.5 and disc with drum in hat ebrake.

I'd say the advantage is not a bent housing.
 
MigGunslinger said:
Ok so:
explorer 8.8 with disc brakes $250
Yukon Ultimate 88 kit $500
ARB $1100
Ruffstuff bracket kit $275
Motive ring and pinion & install kit $380

Looking at about $2500 half the price of other options and I maintain some of my street cred by pulling out my tools AND wallet:lmao:

I'm on the fence between the 8.8 and the ecgs JK44 based axle I linked above which I priced at $5349

Either way If I pull the 44 and it's still straight I could sell it for quite a bit probably.
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$2,500 for a 31 spline C clip axle. Just one axle. So you can maintain street cred and don’t have to buy new wheels. Just say this to yourself.

How much can you find a set of 05+ super duty axles for? Depending on how far you are from me I have a set of 35s on 8 lug wheels you could wheel and drive around on for a while. Seems like the SMART option is to upgrade to one tons.
 
Those 05+ SD axles are 71" wide.

You can pick just about any old ford or dodge D60/70 or 10.25" and they're 65" wide.
 
u2slow said:
Those 05+ SD axles are 71" wide.

You can pick just about any old ford or dodge D60/70 or 10.25" and they're 65" wide.
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Sure if you want to stick with the cool guys from 20 years ago. If the Dana 44 is bending tubes and the OP wants to be one and some the 05+ axles are going to have more aftermarket support and they’re the current “Kingpins and 14 bolts’ option.


Edit: my opinion is revolving around the logic of buying a $5,500 semi float axle because it’s more bolt in friendly and maybe doesn’t require buying $600 in used wheels. Plenty of people wheel steel 17” wheels without beadlocks.
 
TRINDU said:
98+ isuzu is 63" wide, 3" tubes, 'JK style' r&p.

96-97 is 60.5 and regular D44 but thick gears.

<95 is 58.5", same as 96-97

All 6x5.5 and disc with drum in hat ebrake.

I'd say the advantage is not a bent housing.
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I'd rather just grab a JK rear and add 1" spacers to the front.

Nothing against the isuzu, just seems like a barely better axle, unless he can find the 98+ and even then, the tubes are smaller than the JK.
 
My Jeep, as it sits with the 3” lift and 35s does everything I ask of it. It wheels way better than I can drive. The group I wheel with is 2 CJ5s on 33s, (well my aunt just got a TJ Rubicon too) We go along nice and slow so the CJs don’t fall apart. I have a blast doing this. I don’t need the biggest baddest of everything, Just something that I can drive to and from the trail and I don’t have to dick around with the rear axle every other week.

On a side note I think the axle seal I put in on Thursday IS FUCKING LEAKING AGIAIN FUCK

As I said I appreciate all of the advice given here, we are now at the point that whatever I do is going to piss people off lmao.
 
$5,600 axle should work perfect for you. No sense retubing what you have when you can buy something new for probably twice as much just so you can talk about it waiting for the other guy. I highly doubt you’ll enjoy wheeling it more than your current axle.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'd rather just grab a JK rear and add 1" spacers to the front.

Nothing against the isuzu, just seems like a barely better axle, unless he can find the 98+ and even then, the tubes are smaller than the JK.
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Either way it's the wrong pattern. More scrub isn't better, spacers suck.

I bet you can make a 8.8 swap kit brackets work on the isuzu too. 35 spline shafts, gears, locker, and it's a sub ~$2k and spot on.
 
You’re doing something wrong!!!!!
Going through seals, axles and gears like you are proves it!!!!!
Plenty of people running 35’s on a 44 with no issue!!!!
 
After feeling like shit for over a week I finally got a chance to call ECGS about their 489 (JK44) axle, I talked to Brandon and he was very helpful. Posting the answers in here in case anybody cares.

Tube Diameter and wall thickness: 3" Diameter 1/2" thick. Tube Diameter is larger than the stock JK housing because ECGS has their own housings cast for them.

Set 10 vs set 20 Wheel Bearings: The larger OD of the set 20 represents a significant upgrade in strength

I could not get them to say exactly what the brake rotors were off of. Pretty sure it is explorer stuff that would be drilled to 5x5.5. They did say I could call up and get rotors and pads / calipers were readily available and they would supply part numbers if I needed to get stuff locally.

Ground clearance on their housing is 5.1" from axle centerline vs. 5.3" on the stock TJ44 which is pretty sweet. Standard 44 diff cover is used as well.

I talked to them a bit about this vs their LP dana 60 and they agreed that without more lift and need for the larger ring gear the 60 is a bit big for the stock axle location.

95% sure I am going to pull the trigger on one of these in the next couple of days, thanks again for all of your opinions I read all of them and learned a bunch. I was very tempted by the 8.8 and I think that would have been a good option but for the difference in money I am getting thicker axle tubes, 35 spline shafts vs 31 spline, much larger pinion gear shaft, larger set 20 outer bearings, and saving a couple of weekends of work putting it together.

When I get this axle I am going to pull out my stock one, check if it is bent again, fix it if it is, and sell it so someone wanting to get rid of their D35.

Capture.JPG


Edit: I will also need a 1330 to 1350 conversion Ujoint. I can get one from ECGS but summit has them for half the price so I can get one and have a trail spare. Kinda blows that there is no 1330 yoke available, well I forgot to ask actually, but it is not listed as an option. And I had just gotten all the driveshaft joints to 1330, the stock setup has no less than 5 different U-joints including the axle shafts:homer:
 
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MigGunslinger said:
After feeling like shit for over a week I finally got a chance to call ECGS about their 489 (JK44) axle, I talked to Brandon and he was very helpful. Posting the answers in here in case anybody cares.

Tube Diameter and wall thickness: 3" Diameter 1/2" thick. Tube Diameter is larger than the stock JK housing because ECGS has their own housings cast for them.

Set 10 vs set 20 Wheel Bearings: The larger OD of the set 20 represents a significant upgrade in strength

I could not get them to say exactly what the brake rotors were off of. Pretty sure it is explorer stuff that would be drilled to 5x5.5. They did say I could call up and get rotors and pads / calipers were readily available and they would supply part numbers if I needed to get stuff locally.

Ground clearance on their housing is 5.1" from axle centerline vs. 5.3" on the stock TJ44 which is pretty sweet. Standard 44 diff cover is used as well.

I talked to them a bit about this vs their LP dana 60 and they agreed that without more lift and need for the larger ring gear the 60 is a bit big for the stock axle location.

95% sure I am going to pull the trigger on one of these in the next couple of days, thanks again for all of your opinions I read all of them and learned a bunch. I was very tempted by the 8.8 and I think that would have been a good option but for the difference in money I am getting thicker axle tubes, 35 spline shafts vs 31 spline, much larger pinion gear shaft, larger set 20 outer bearings, and saving a couple of weekends of work putting it together.

When I get this axle I am going to pull out my stock one, check if it is bent again, fix it if it is, and sell it so someone wanting to get rid of their D35.

Edit: I will also need a 1330 to 1350 conversion Ujoint. I can get one from ECGS but summit has them for half the price so I can get one and have a trail spare. Kinda blows that there is no 1330 yoke available, well I forgot to ask actually, but it is not listed as an option. And I had just gotten all the driveshaft joints to 1330, the stock setup has no less than 5 different U-joints including the axle shafts:homer:
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Is the only difference between 1330 and 1350 the caps? Like if you buy one of each, you can swap 2 caps and have 2 "conversion" joints?
 
I’d be surprised if the inner cross was not bigger but hell if I know. There is a handy graphic in the resources here but it only shows cross measurement and cap diameter. The conversion joint is in stock at summit which means I can get one in a day or so and they are $30.
 
MigGunslinger said:
I’d be surprised if the inner cross was not bigger but hell if I know. There is a handy graphic in the resources here but it only shows cross measurement and cap diameter. The conversion joint is in stock at summit which means I can get one in a day or so and they are $30.
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I want to say jeese at high angle said that years ago when my buddy put a D60 in his XJ. I could be way off though.
 
Shit costs money.

Most people don't actually add up how much they dump into thier junkyard stuff.

Like the above list "used 8.8 $350"

What about the time and fuel to drive and get it? New brakes, time to rebuild everything, weld brackets on, nickle and dime shit adds up. That cheap junkyard axle isn't always that cheap.

I built a pair of D60s up from bare stick housings. I stopped adding at $7500. That was $450 yukon front shafts at lake bed prices, a free set of wheel hubs, and cheap rear shafts also.

Obviously you could build an 8.8 for cheaper, but it wouldn't be 35 spline, and you're dealing with a ~25 year old axle, so there is a chance it may be no good.

I can bring myself to drop the coin on a crate axle, but I also totally get why people do. Especially after fighting trying to make his current axle live.
 
I have asked for opinions and gotten them, read each one two or three times and thanked you guys more than once. If I did not take your advice it is not a personal attack against you. It’s my money, and I have spent more weekends than I care to remember dicking around with this axle. The ECGS is complete overkill for my tire size and use in a package size that will work with my current setup. With some future proofing for larger tires or stretch etc.

I will post back up when it comes in and if I have to do anything with my current axle to get it ready to sell.
 
This is not directed at anyone, it's just a general observation so don't take it personally... :flipoff2:

I've always disliked people that continually complain about someone's decision for a direction they decided to go. Weather right, wrong, or the amount of money involved, if a person has made a decision on which way they're going then just shut up. It's not your time or money to worry about, it's their's.

It's one thing if a decision hasn't been made. But once the decision has been made, you gave you're opinion now move on... :beer:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Shit costs money.

Most people don't actually add up how much they dump into thier junkyard stuff.

Like the above list "used 8.8 $350"

What about the time and fuel to drive and get it? New brakes, time to rebuild everything, weld brackets on, nickle and dime shit adds up. That cheap junkyard axle isn't always that cheap.

I built a pair of D60s up from bare stick housings. I stopped adding at $7500. That was $450 yukon front shafts at lake bed prices, a free set of wheel hubs, and cheap rear shafts also.

Obviously you could build an 8.8 for cheaper, but it wouldn't be 35 spline, and you're dealing with a ~25 year old axle, so there is a chance it may be no good.

I can bring myself to drop the coin on a crate axle, but I also totally get why people do. Especially after fighting trying to make his current axle live.
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I heard this with, Nate, from Dirt Lifestyle voice!!!!
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Gregj50!!!!! said:
I heard this with, Nate, from Dirt Lifestyle voice!!!!
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
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He told people not to bother with junk yard axles and just buy crate? I'm not saying that at all. I don't think the 8.8 is a bad option at all. But I'm not going to shit talk the guy for pulling the trigger on a bolt in done deal.

Although, if youre dropping an axle off at a shop and paying them to do a ton of work, I can see crate axle price looking good.
 
RunningProblem said:
Did you get your new axle yet?
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I think I'm about halfway through the lead time, another 4 weeks maybe? Good thing about spending stupid money is it should only take a few hours to throw it in.:homer: Should be Installed and broken in with lots of time to spare before the IBB Adventure.

I will post up pics when it comes in for sure.
 
Well, It's here!

ECGS crate was really nice.

Already confirmed the 3" OD axle tubes. I know a lowly Dana 44 does not impress the tons crowd but I have had my TJ44 in and out of the Jeep a half dozen times and this thing is ultrabeef in comparison. If anybody wants any measurements from it let me know.

I'll probably throw it in this weekend or next and I'll try to get side by side pics.

Space below this post is reserved for poors complaining about the price.
:flipoff2:

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