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Tire Vulcanization Discussion

Latest one.
I think I need to grind/make a larger smooth area.
 

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Gotta go back and reread this...
Anyone mentioned
Glue Tread yet?


 
I'm no expert but I've probably had a dozen or more tires professionally done over the years. Ones that had big goobery blobs like your pic tended to get caught and ripped out vs having a nice smooth transition to the sidewall.
Yeah, I’m going to try sanding it down, trimming a larger area & then do another patch.
If it doesn’t go well, I’ll start over . :(
 
I wish I could be more help but it has been a long time. Back in my 20s I worked in a recapping shop. We did lots of sidewall repairs on Semi tires. If I remember right we used a tool, sort of a Dremel deal, with a drill bit thing. You would clean the hole out and round all the sides, buff it to a 45% angle all on the outside of the hole. You would then buff the inside of the tire, add cement to the buffed surfaces, let dry, at least 5 min. Put the patch on the inside of the tire, then add the rubber to the outside. Then you would put the spot repair on it and let it cure. I know there was a formula for how long you would cook it but I have idea now what is was. We also used a vulcanizing gun to heat up the rubber to spread it in the hole. Something like this.
vulcanising gun - - Image Search Results
Wow those are not cheap!
We also used a stone to clean up the cords.
This is the company we bought the supplies from.
 
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So I'm still curious if anyone else has used this unit and how it was with red labels being repaired.
 
I’ll give in update.
All (3-4) the tires have held up well over the last year. Most gave 5+ trips.
1 tire pre-ran the rock sections of KOH without an issue.

My advice on this: Take your time & spend lots of time on prep.
If you rush you don’t get as good of results.
The longer it cooks (8-12 hours) the better as well.
 
Wow, 8-12hrs seems like a long time!
I had read on an old Rema printout to do 4min/32nd of rubber so that’s what I’ve done on the few tires I’ve fixed… good results so far.
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What are you running PSI wise in those ties??? I cannot imagine this type of patch working well above 20-30psi...
 
They leak down over a few weeks.
I fill to 30-35 while it sits. And for loading & unloading.
Minimal street use. Maybe 1/4 mile from trailer to trail.
My rig is heavy, so I start weekend at 12psi.
I found i don’t tear sidewalks as often as I did running 6-8psi.
 
They leak down over a few weeks.
I fill to 30-35 while it sits. And for loading & unloading.
Minimal street use. Maybe 1/4 mile from trailer to trail.
My rig is heavy, so I start weekend at 12psi.
I found i don’t tear sidewalks as often as I did running 6-8psi.

That is low pressure for sure. What about using a tire tube? Does the help at all?
 
That is low pressure for sure. What about using a tire tube? Does the help at all?
That's pretty typical pressure around here on bias ply...often lower. I usually run 3 psi rear and 5 psi front on my Maxxsux CC comps.
 
That's pretty typical pressure around here on bias ply...often lower. I usually run 3 psi rear and 5 psi front on my Maxxsux CC comps.
I don't do rock crawling so I don't go that low. I prefer mud with aggressive tire chains-- so I'm always at full pressure.
 
A patch on the inside would help to keep it from loosing air. Think about it. There is a inner liner in the tire to keep the air in the tire. It is made from different material than the outside. If it was a tube type tire there would be no inner liner.
 
Keep in mind that vulcanizing repairs do not address all types of damage. Though ideal for sealing tiny cuts within the tire’s thread part, their suitability varies when extensive damage is involved. This includes any large hole near the edges which undermines structural soundness while sidewall tears lead to serious blow-out threats. In such instances, I would replace the whole tire.

It was a sad experience when I decided to plug such a hole with vulcanization. After that, I sat for 2 hours waiting for my friend with a spare tire, for which he went to the seller
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