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Thefishguy77 Yard Art

Thefishguy77

Thefishguy77

Part time dumbass
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
271
Messages
2,084
Loc
U.S.S.A. (Washington St.)
Ok so I started a thread over on PBB but I cant find since the migration, and it didn’t have any real progress there anyways so here we go.
Boat is a 23’ Crestliner Eagle Powered by a 93 175 Evinrude Intruder. Pulled the tarp off her today and she appears to have weathered the snowy winter well. No signs of pest or rodent issues. I couldn't find Rswords on here so I sent him a PM on PBB. I figure of I can buy tools and parts from him I would be helping a fellow wheeler out.

It’s probably goong to be about a grand for tools and parts so I will also be checking a few local places to see how bad it hurts to have them do the seals and impeller. My goal is to have her on the water by the 4th so paying someone may be the better option. This winter I will start on the floor and cabin.

Anyways. Without further ado Irate meet Yard Art

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Nice project. I also have a boat project build lol, and with the boat project and my former job working for a catfish farming company, i'm pretty good with outboard motors and boats in general, but on the opposite of the country. If i was closer I'd be glad to help out however I could. I will tell you though, go online and download a manual for it, messing with the lower unit and water pump impeller, etc, is really not as scary as you'd think it is. Even rebuilding the whole lower unit isn't voodoo magic like people would have you believe.
 
Ok found a local guy with good reviews to get my yard art lower unit resealed with a new water pump/impeller assuming no broken shit found. Its T&M and he was very clear about it being a new boat to him. Said the average job for a reseal and water pump and impeller was 2-300 depending on corrosion delays. Honestly its like $250 for the snapring pliers so we were good to get it up and going for up to a $1000. This leaves more new, to me, kicker motor money. Now a 15hp is probably a good chance vs. 10 unless the right price was found.
 
Ok got a call Friday from the boat doc and said she runs good and the lower unit passed a pressure test with no signs of water to speak if in it. So last night my wife asks me if we want the maiden voyage To be Fathers Day. Well. Yard Art floats and runs great. Spent a few hours on a local lake giving her a shake down before the 4th. Still need to find the stupid reason I couldn't get power to the fish finder or GPS. But who cares, cause I gots me some floating yard art:flipoff2::usa:

Edit: Topped out at 34 mph in choppy water. Does not belong in the go fast thread:lmao:

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That's the perfect trolling boat. 30 knots is fine, you're not running charters.

They want your eye teeth for small outboards around here, I just did a quick search, $850 for a 1974 Johnson 9.9 hp :laughing: Jesus.

Used Cannon handcrank downriggers go for $150/pr.

You're a wheeler so you could put bent rebar in a mold and cast concrete around it for weights, they want $50 for those things. Or use 2x4 stock and fill it with concrete and kind of fab it up so it's somewhat hydrodynamic. Then just dip it yourself.

All kinds of neat and fun things you can do to make it work.
 
Figuring out some of the electrical issues. Picture before cleaning, will post an after install picture later.
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Got that buss cleaned up as best I could. Dropped the fuses in and checked resistance and its good. Now remaking the male spade connectors. Just the amount of weak or fucked up grounds could be any number of issues. This is a temporary fix and I plan on basically rewiring the boat this fall/winter. But figured I would update this boring thread.
 
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Ok got it put back together. I now have interior power, navigation lights, my 2nd bilge pump, depth finder, now all work. My GPS tried to turn on but then shut off and would not turn back on ( in line fuse is good and power to the fuse block). Oh well for what I need thats fine for now, and not bad for my first time ever playing with boat wiring. Also got 2 more fire extinguishers for the boat. One for in the cabin and one for the stern as well. Fires on boats are scary and not having to look/go get an extinguisher was my goal. Now I just need to grab a kicker motor.
 
Ok so over the 4th of July about 3 miles in she started blubbering when past 1900rpms. I was up on plane doing about 30 when she just started blubbering. Below 1900 you could not tell there was a problem. Just to be safe I took the slow trip back to the launch and called it for the boat that weekend. Called the PO and asked him and he said it was fuel and to change the filter, males sense so I bought several filters.

My question is, is it safe to put it in gear and run it with flushing muffs on to see if I can recreate the blubber before changing the filter. Obviously I would like to know I fixed it before I drag her back to the water.
 
Well the 1995 motor let a head gasket go on the trip back. Managed to keep he idling and with the help from a small skiff we made it back to the dock. Going to have someone confirm the motor is done then look at a rebuild myself. Or buy new:barf:
 
Shit unlucky man, good luck! Ive only been on the water a handful of times this summer down on the columbia/willamette. I hope that increases the coming years for me!
 
Shit happens. I would honestly if I can swing it love to just be done with 2 strokes for boat motors. The convenience of a 4 stroke is very appealing.

I have a very nice old school very well built and super clean TRX 250r that I am contemplating selling. Like the cases and jug are stock. Lots of good engine work, after market chassis, great suspension, etc. I am watching bone stock one go for 6-8K. I feel 8 would not be a stretch for mine. That would put a nice dent in a re-power All 3 of us are considering selling our R’s and moving on.

Time will tell
 
Ok so I had it wrong on the head gasket. The water I had coming out the motor was from the regulator, its water cooled and cracked. That caused a bank of cylinders to not fire so thats why I was feeling a big temp difference between the banks. After tanking to my boat guy a lot he tracked it down to a broken regulator. Put a new stator and regulator on and she seems good to go. Trying to find a cheap 9.9 2stroke kicker for now till I can justify new.
 
RSWORDS
Ok need to rebuild the carbs or at least regasket them. Hoping RSWORDS or one of the other IBB boat gurus can help. Have a few carbs that are leaking and I am also abandoning the oil injection at the same time. Have a buddy that can help but told me he would kick me if I bought cheep Chyna junk. Its between a 93-95 175 Evenrude 2smoke. Will post pics in next post
 
Mmmm plastic carbs.....

Buy OEM parts

Use a straight edge to make sure the bodies and bowls aren't warped.


Easy to rebuild


Fix the water leak on the starboard side
 
RSWORDS said:
Mmmm plastic carbs.....

Buy OEM parts

Use a straight edge to make sure the bodies and bowls aren't warped.


Easy to rebuild


Fix the water leak on the starboard side
Click to expand...
I believe that water leak was caused by the stater and regulator letting go. In theory it is fixed but I need to get it to run again to verify it.
 
Oh the joys of Evin's carbs. Horrific fuel consumption. As long as you constantly fix old broke shit, you will never have a boring day on the water.

What prop? What is max RPM at WOT? Have you aeriated (drill holes) the prop hub? Huge improvement for no money.


FWIW, my 454 MPI in a 7000# boat uses 1/2 the fuel my 140 2 stoke carb'd Evinrude did on a 1400# boat.
 
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