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The wife's Maverick Trail

CarterKraft

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Another crappy thread.

2018 CanAm Maverick Trail 800 DPS
Put the OEM 1000 doors on it.

She wanted some tunes and I really didn't have the time before we went on our first trip to Colorado to do the system I wanted to build so I whipped up some quick release brackets for some portable Bluetooth speakers.

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Then she wanted a cooler, and she's particular about color so with the theme being blue and yellow (I guess it goes?)
I got this gray/blue lifetime cooler to semi permanently attach using a quick release mount cradle.

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That setup worked fine but lacked audio power to keep up with the loud AF CVT drive so a audio re-do was in order. The cooler works great but the dry/food/tool storage kinda sucked so I wanted to build a giant (relative) single lid dry box.

That gets us to this setup, I added a rear mounted spare tire carrier (trying to keep the weigh as low as possible).
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Space is a premium in this deal. The cabin is pretty tight since the machine overall is less than 50" wide. That puts a damper on audio space but I figured I could get some tunes in there that would have the right output.
I have always wanted to build a fiberglass enclosure, either subwoofer or mids/tweets.
This was gonna be the time I get to do it.
I ordered some Resin/fabric/chopped etc. a fleece blanket and some scrap 3/8" plywood. I built some rings for the speakers in some arrangement that I thought looked good and got to work.

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I found a video on Youtube where this dude made up this mix of resin and bondo, he called it Rondo. So I did that and found it worked but was a mothule fuckle to sand LOL. Anyway I got it sanded out and smoothed I thought to put primer on it.
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And then I really fucked up.... I bought some blue plasti dip for some details and grabbed the wrong can and damn near got half of it sprayed before I figured out why the paint sucked so bad:lmao:
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I got my son to help me rub all that plasti dip off and I painted it with the actual blue paint I bought, maybe a Ford engine paint?
I used some 8" Skar "pro Sound" woofers which are just high sensitivity drivers, and some Skar super tweeters. No passive crossover just a Low pass at 90 hz and the protection cap that is on the tweeter. This was a test of what I can get away with...
Driving these with a 4 channel DS 440x4 bridging 2 of the chanels to run a Dayton Audio classic 10" sub under the dash.
I have zero pix of the sub for some reason, but I will get some.


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I'll come back to the stereo shit cause I have no pix of that.

On to the dry box.
I originally wanted to build a full box for the bed like the Ryfab boxs but with a integrated fiberglass cooler. That seemed possibly too complicated and potentially lead to all my shit getting wet so I bailed on that and left the cooler/rack as is and started on a dedicated dry box.
I wanted to keep the same effective storage area as the two box's I was using and, make the lids not interfere when open and be easy to open/close for teenage girls, moms etc.
That gets us a 16ga? box welded up with a 3/4" tube frame top for gasketing etc.
I put the welds around the perimeter of the top flange pretty thick so I could grind/sand it back and get a nice finished edge for the top to close around.


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Here's where I ran out of talent...
I had this in mind and in practice I didn't have the tooling to pull it off and lacked the skill to know exactly how to do it. All I have for a break is a 3 in 1 machine and it has some real weird throat capacity and doesn't help my lack of experience, this thickness was also way over the capacity at this width.

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So I switched gears and got some 1/4x1 1/4" strap to create a perimeter band for a regular 3/16" flat sheet top.
This turned out 100% better and is what I should have done all along.
I went ahead and tried to "coin" the top in the press to give it some resistance to oil canning and self drain instead of pooling if I warped it while welding.

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About this time I broke my rear camera and so it started getting fucked up and cloudy so I kind of stopped taking pictures of stuff...
But I got the hinges welded on, just some 1/4" aluminum plate in some tear drop shapes then with some weight compressing the gasket on the lid the holes drilled. I used some aircraft push pins so incase of a latch fuck up in the future I can semi easily access the box to release the latch.
The latch is a southco cable operated pushbutton actuator and bear claw latch from a CAT backhoe hood. (I paid for it :flipoff2:)
It is lockable with a CAT key and makes it super easy to open, close etc. while keeping the exterior water proof.

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Having bare aluminum tool box's before in trucks I know the bare alumnium will oxide and that nasty black shit will get on EVERYTHING so I wanted to coat the interior somehow. I bought some china Sea Deck material off ebay and lined the box. I had Covid for this phase and I was 2 weeks out from the trip so some shit got hastily done:shaking:

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Here is a pic of it in use in Colorado. IT was a hit, did everything it was supposed to do and had room to spare for all my dirtbike shit plus sxs shit, air compressor food, rain gear etc. I did puss out a few days before the trip and added a little rubber toggle latch to the top. I didn't get the latch rod and interior panel fabricated like I wanted so there is a 3/32" tig rod as a linkage stand in and it is possible for the contents to trip the latch. The rubber toggle gives me a belt and suspenders deal until I can get the linkage like I want it, I will probabaly still leave the toggle.
I also moved the rubber seal and changed it to a bulb seal that has less compression. With the seal on the top flange it was going to be forever damaged by retrieving items and it didn't make a lot of sense to have it there versus on the lid. Again a covid project that was not up to par, it might get redone...

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Cool work on dry box and speaker enclosure! What’s next?

I disconnected one leg of the front sway bar and put 1.5" spacers on the rear and 1" spacers on the front. The ride is much improved on the twisty sections and climbing over rocks.
I might try to build a jks style disconnect for it or just say f it.

It did good today on a little creek bed, even climbed a 3' ledge we went down but I thought for sure it wouldn't climb back up but it did.

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Northwest OHV?

The storage box came out killer. I especially like the liner so it doesn't get beat to shit from the inside out. :smokin:
 
Northwest OHV?

The storage box came out killer. I especially like the liner so it doesn't get beat to shit from the inside out. :smokin:
Hidden falls in Marble Falls.

We're really happy with the box. Plenty of DRY storage.
I'll get a pic of my MILs Maverick Sport, they have the linq box's and they are tiny and $$$ each. They are cool but not good for the bang/buck.
 
You're no ProjectTwin on audio but it'll do. :flipoff2:



Just kidding that looks really good. Great job on the dry box. I took the easy way out on my RZR XP and bought a Rock Ready Packout mount for mine. It fits with my Ozark Trail 26 but the lid won't open fully.
 
You're no ProjectTwin on audio but it'll do. :flipoff2:



Just kidding that looks really good. Great job on the dry box. I took the easy way out on my RZR XP and bought a Rock Ready Packout mount for mine. It fits with my Ozark Trail 26 but the lid won't open fully.

No joke, I didn't know his level of execution was even possible.
Thanks, I am happy with the box.
I am thinking I am going to herc-uliner it but Durabak makes a blue bedliner that might be better?

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Having bare aluminum tool box's before in trucks I know the bare alumnium will oxide and that nasty black shit will get on EVERYTHING so I wanted to coat the interior somehow. I bought some china Sea Deck material off ebay and lined the box. I had Covid for this phase and I was 2 weeks out from the trip so some shit got hastily done:shaking:

1668619898185.png


Here is a pic of it in use in Colorado. IT was a hit, did everything it was supposed to do and had room to spare for all my dirtbike shit plus sxs shit, air compressor food, rain gear etc. I did puss out a few days before the trip and added a little rubber toggle latch to the top. I didn't get the latch rod and interior panel fabricated like I wanted so there is a 3/32" tig rod as a linkage stand in and it is possible for the contents to trip the latch. The rubber toggle gives me a belt and suspenders deal until I can get the linkage like I want it, I will probabaly still leave the toggle.
I also moved the rubber seal and changed it to a bulb seal that has less compression. With the seal on the top flange it was going to be forever damaged by retrieving items and it didn't make a lot of sense to have it there versus on the lid. Again a covid project that was not up to par, it might get redone...

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Finally made the latch rod cover to keep the contents from fouling the latch.

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