What's new
By:
Filters

The Moonshine Motel - Enclosed Gooseneck "Crawler Hauler" Build

ParadisePWoffrd said:
What about mounting the electrical box above the toilet? I know it seems like a weird spot, but is typically an open space, unless you already have a cabinet planned there.
Click to expand...

That's going to be a wet bath, so that's a no go on the sparkys in there.

I think I can build the kitchenette with a side open for the electronics, just need to see how it feels. The entry door, steps/ladder up to the goose area, and kitchentte are all in a pretty tight spot together. Would be easier to fit it all if I ditched the shower, but I can't bring myself to do that. I get a chubby thinking about being able to take a shower in my trailer on a cold morning, or after a long hot day on the trails.
 
Is the (I assume) dead space above the right jack big enough? If so build a box with an access door to the inside.
 
AK_F250 said:
Is the (I assume) dead space above the right jack big enough? If so build a box with an access door to the inside.
Click to expand...
I was thinking that, but it's open on the bottom to moisture. Thought I just had was to make it a sealed enclosure though. That might work!

I will take some measurements and see if I can fit it all in there. Thank you.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I was thinking that, but it's open on the bottom to moisture. Thought I just had was to make it a sealed enclosure though. That might work!

I will take some measurements and see if I can fit it all in there. Thank you.
Click to expand...
That's what I was thinking too, build the enclosure as a sealed unit and stuff the whole thing in there. Hard to tell from the pics how much width you'd loose going that route though.
 
AK_F250 said:
That's what I was thinking too, build the enclosure as a sealed unit and stuff the whole thing in there. Hard to tell from the pics how much width you'd loose going that route though.
Click to expand...

I think there will be enough room. I'll flesh out the layout later, thanks again for the idea.
 
Chopped up the goose area yesterday. Intend to get these walls framed out for the 48" windows this weekend, so that I can paint, then finish hanging skins early next week.

Before:

1620396737803.png


Chopped up:

1620396804704.png


Other side chopped up:

1620396843171.png
 
if the box fits best above the door that's where I'd put it.

Easier to disguise a breaker panel door than figure out another solution. bonus that it's also super accessible when you need to do breaker things.

stick a picture frame on magnets and stick it on the panel. hang some cheesy hobby lobby sign over it.
 
87manche said:
if the box fits best above the door that's where I'd put it.

Easier to disguise a breaker panel door than figure out another solution. bonus that it's also super accessible when you need to do breaker things.

stick a picture frame on magnets and stick it on the panel. hang some cheesy hobby lobby sign over it.
Click to expand...

Accessibility is a concern, but I do like the idea of having a sealed compartment in that location, if only to hold the LiFePO4 battery array I will put in this thing.
 
Have you checked out the chinese diesel heaters yet? Pretty inexpensive and effective.
 
Yes sir, was watching a few videos about them last week. Going that route is going to be the ticket I think. Only thing I might not appreciate is the display/control, but that's a minor thing. Makes perfect sense to use a diesel heater when I've got a ~20gal diesel fuel tank for the genny anyway.

Only question is whether or not one heater will be enough for the whole trailer. I think if I mount it up in the goose area (which will be mostly walled off) it'll be plenty for sleeping, especially after insulation goes in.
 
the big ones are 5K BTU if you believe china.
I think it would be fine for the sleeping area, but may struggle with the whole space depending on insulation.

As someone that owned a box truck with the mother's attic, the cab over section was always hotter.
so you may want to locate the heater down lower.
 
That's a good point, heat does rise after all. My current thinking on insulation is ~2" of spray foam throughout the whole thing, using furring strips on top of the metal studs to give more room for the insulation. Haven't completely committed to that yet, but that's what I'm thinking. The insulation should be pretty good if I go that route.

For hot water, they make these diesel air heaters with an integrated hot water heater. Would it make more sense to use that for heat and hot water, or run an electric water heater? From an ease of use perspective, the electric hot water heater would be simpler (on all the time), but burns watt hours. For the few times we would need hot water for dishes or a shower, you'd have to cut on the diesel heater, wait for it to heat up, then take your shower or do dishes. In fall/winter camping, the heater would be on all the time, so your shower water would be good to go whenever.

Point is, seems to make sense to run the diesel heater for hot air and for hot water. Looking for more thoughts/opinions.

 
the other advantage to electric is you can use campground electricity.

I guess it depends if you're going to be mostly at campgrounds or boondocking.
If it's going to be mostly campgrounds I'd do electric.

always on hot water was a big selling point for my wife.
 
87manche said:
the other advantage to electric is you can use campground electricity.

I guess it depends if you're going to be mostly at campgrounds or boondocking.
If it's going to be mostly campgrounds I'd do electric.

always on hot water was a big selling point for my wife.
Click to expand...

That's true too, I keep forgetting about shore power electric. I've never stayed at a RV campground, not sure if that's going to be a thing we do in the future.

From a showering perspective, I don't think a small water heater like a 4 or 7 gallon will be enough, especially for someone who likes scalding hot showers like my better half. What size hot water heater do you have?
 
there was no shower in my junk, so it was just a small 5 gallonish job.

if quantity is important, then diesel can probably do more of a heat on demand sort of recovery.

do they make diesel fired tankless water heaters? maybe that's the perfect solution. all the water you want, wherever you want.
 
lol. 5 grand.
expressrvshop.com

Aqua Hot 250 D

MODEL 250DUltra-Compact Hydronic Heating Highly efficient heating and continuous domestic hot water appliance in one compact efficient unit. Features - Fueled by diesel and operated by 12V for off grid applications. - Available with a 110 electric element. - The all-in-one design of the...
expressrvshop.com expressrvshop.com


so I guess that's out.
 
87manche said:
this guy has a pretty good test of the chinese webasto clone.

Click to expand...


That's the video i linked above, yup. Seems pretty ideal imo. Wouldn't be hard to set that up as a DIY hydronic heating system, with one plate style heat exchanger for hot water, then a few air-water exchangers for hot air.

The aqua-hot system would be ideal agree, but like you saw it's $5k. All of the "hydronic" RV heating systems are pricey.
 
All good, lol. At least we're thinking along the same lines.

Doing a DIY type hydronic system with one of those as a water heater will make the most sense I think. After insulation, I may be able to get away with one water-air exchanger, but we'll see when we get to that point later this year. Going that route will give me hot water and hot air, and consume a relatively small amount of diesel.
 
the only issue I see with that is properly controlling the heat output, and making it so you can just set a thermostat.
perhaps manage the heating and the heater as separate loops/pumps with a heat excanger?

The nerd in me says program an arduino to control solenoid valves and make it super fancy, but I'm a nerd.
 
I have a Chinese parking heater ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7LJYLK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) I use in my Toy Hauler. I use it to keep temps at a reasonable level overnight in the 5th wheel section (the master bedroom). It's also a variable speed / heat and is a hell of a lot quieter than a standard RV furnace. 8,000 Watts is equivalent to 27,000 BTU/hr.

I use a 1.5 gallon tank to feed the heater, then I have a supplemental 6 gallon tank that feeds the smaller tank. The reason being that the pump that comes with the heater is not good at pumping distances. Diesel use is about 1/2 gallon per day at full blast in 25ºF weather. Inside temps are at about 68-72º. My advice is to not use the plastic tubing that comes with said heater as it tends to weather and fatigue rather easily. Make sure you get rid of all that shit and use this --> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YGQYW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I still have the Suburban 35,000 BTU/hr main heater which runs on propane for the main source of heat, though I find I don't really need to use it most of the time. This winter, I only used it a couple times. And that was because the aforementioned plastic tube fatiguing and not flowing fuel.



As for the water heater thing. Electric water heaters are really only effective when you are plugged into an RV lot. The BTU rating of the electric part is pretty low IIRC something around 5,000 BTU/hr, but the gas part is 12,000 BTU/hr. What that means in practical terms is the you are not going to be using the generator to run the electric instead of using LP.

This one --> https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-524...faa75&pd_rd_wg=yCIcN&pd_rd_i=B01NCVAEJG&psc=1

I did come across this on YouTube video where there is a company that makes a kit to adapt a Diesel heater to a circulating water pump. Pretty cool thing. I'd be stoked to see if you could make this work with an insulated tank with some check valves.

 
FordFascist said:
I have a Chinese parking heater ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7LJYLK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) I use in my Toy Hauler. I use it to keep temps at a reasonable level overnight in the 5th wheel section (the master bedroom). It's also a variable speed / heat and is a hell of a lot quieter than a standard RV furnace. 8,000 Watts is equivalent to 27,000 BTU/hr.

I use a 1.5 gallon tank to feed the heater, then I have a supplemental 6 gallon tank that feeds the smaller tank. The reason being that the pump that comes with the heater is not good at pumping distances. Diesel use is about 1/2 gallon per day at full blast in 25ºF weather. Inside temps are at about 68-72º. My advice is to not use the plastic tubing that comes with said heater as it tends to weather and fatigue rather easily. Make sure you get rid of all that shit and use this --> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YGQYW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I still have the Suburban 35,000 BTU/hr main heater which runs on propane for the main source of heat, though I find I don't really need to use it most of the time. This winter, I only used it a couple times. And that was because the aforementioned plastic tube fatiguing and not flowing fuel.



As for the water heater thing. Electric water heaters are really only effective when you are plugged into an RV lot. The BTU rating of the electric part is pretty low IIRC something around 5,000 BTU/hr, but the gas part is 12,000 BTU/hr. What that means in practical terms is the you are not going to be using the generator to run the electric instead of using LP.

This one --> https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-524...faa75&pd_rd_wg=yCIcN&pd_rd_i=B01NCVAEJG&psc=1

I did come across this on YouTube video where there is a company that makes a kit to adapt a Diesel heater to a circulating water pump. Pretty cool thing. I'd be stoked to see if you could make this work with an insulated tank with some check valves.
Click to expand...
that's nifty.

Product Page | Bobil Vans

www.bobilvans.co.uk www.bobilvans.co.uk

it appears it's some 3d printed shroud replacement bits that just stuffs a heater core in the output airflow.
67186c_93dc8b0469394972a311c1d2d2c3fdab_mv2.jpg
 
That setup is pretty neat, but you always have hot air coming in. Would be problematic when running the Ac, trying to keep the camper cool. Could have a shutter valve to pump the hot air outside, but air leaks.

DIY hydronic system is the current thinking. I'm going to see if I can get some kalori hear exchanger/blower setups, then a plate exchanger for the hot water, no hot water tank either. Should be pretty easy to do.
 
I would think the efficiency of using hot air to keep water is going to be pretty low, you would be better off with a small propane tankless or seeing if somebody makes something like that heater but that is set up to heat water rather than air.
It takes one BTU to heat up a pound of water 1° f, so if you have 40° F incoming temperatures, a 3,000 BTU heater at 50% efficiency can heat up about 2.6 gallons per minute to 120° f.
That's probably being overly optimistic on the efficiency.

Aaron Z
 
I run a 19 gallon electric water heater in my trailer that I actually like way more than I thought I would. It takes a fair amount of power to get the tank hot but it will stay warm for a day or two and not draw a ton to get it back screaming hot again. It’s on its own circuit breaker so I just flip it on and off as needed to save power/fuel. Nice to have plenty of hot water for a non-Navy shower.
 
FordFascist and aczlan01 my current plan has no propane, so I'd rather not add propane just for hot water. Although a RV propane style instant hot water heater and stove top would be easy, storing a propane tank is a concern.

To make a decision I have to weigh the pros/cons between the following systems for all electric / all propane / electric+hydronic:

  • cook top - current thinking induction, could go propane
  • hot water - current thinking hydronic plate exchanger, could go propane
  • heat - current thinking hydronic w/cab heaters, could go propane furnace, or a chinacom parking heater like FordFascist uses, or use the rooftop heat pump/ac as heat

My electric system will comprise of a 280ah 12v LiFePO4 battery array, then one of these inverters, to be able to connect to either my diesel genset, honda 2200w, or shore power. Solar power is in the plan, but was intended to be down the road.
www.solar-electric.com

Victron MultiPlus-II Inverter & Charger 3000 VA 12 Volts DC, 2x120 Volts AC, 120 Amp Charger

Part Number: PMP122305100 NOTE: THE PRODUCT IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR INTEGRATION IN 50A RV APPLICATIONS. THIS MODEL INCLUDES A TWO POLE 50A AC INPUT/OUTPUT. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THE MODEL WITH A SINGLE POLE AC INPUT/OUTPUT, PLEASE LOOK AT THE 12/3000/120-50 120V MULTI-II. Note: To do...
www.solar-electric.com www.solar-electric.com

Snowy that amount of hot water sounds amazing, but I do not think I have space for a water heater that large. That's why the hydronic plate exchanger sounds ideal, as it's "unlimited" hot water, and "instant". How big of a fresh water tank do you have? I'm going to have 51 gallons of fresh water, 40 gallons grey, no black tank (composting toilet).

The big concern is being able to use everything when connected to shore power, and when parked at a race track infield, or out in the woods somewhere. Running AC is for generators, that's a given, but do I plan on running the genny for hot water/cooking? That seems unnecessary.
 
Thinking about it more, I just don't want propane. I don't want to make a place to store the tank, I don't want to worry about exchanging or filling tanks, I don't want to run the lines.

I love the idea of unlimited hot water, but I don't know if it's necessary. I don't have room for a large water heater, I know that much, but as far as a 2.5gal water heater vs hydronic, I'm not going to make that decision right now. I need to start using this thing so I can get a feel for it, then I can make those decisions. As a stop-gap, I have a mr. buddy heater for heat, and can use my coleman stove to cook on. That's what I've been doing in my cruiser for years, so it'll work in the camper for the short (maybe long, who knows) term.

What does need to be figured out is the short term electrical system. I need to be able to run the rooftop AC this year, so this is what I've got. Camper Utility phase 1 will be completed for the maiden voyage to Windrock in June. This will be entirely dependent on generators or shore power for all 120/240v loads:

Camper Utility phase 1:
  • 50a power inlet
  • ATS takes power from inlet and from diesel genset
  • ATS feeds 240v breaker box
  • breaker box powers rooftop AC unit
  • outlet from 120/240v breaker box connects to smart charger for 280ah LiFePO4 charging
  • *emergency battery charging via diesel genset or honda 2200i

  • LiFePO4 powers 12v breaker box
  • 12v breaker box powers interior can lights
  • 12v breaker box powers exterior light (maybe?)

  • cooking via coleman stove
  • fridge in cruiser

Phase 2 is a bit fancier, as it integrates the systems a bit better. The inverter allows 120v loads to be run off of the LiFePO4 array, which is the primary change here. The inverter also allows direct charging of the LiFePO4 array from genny/shore power, and has a trickle charge capability to keep the genny starting battery charged. I could use the genny alternator to charge 12v loads, but with the genset supplying power to the inverter, the inverter takes care of the LiFePO4 charging needs.

Camper Utility phase 2:
  • 50a power inlet
  • ATS takes power from inlet and from diesel genset
  • ATS feeds victron multiplus-2
  • victron powers 240v breaker box
  • victron powers 240v welder plugs in trailer (diesel genset and shore power can power a welder)
  • victron powers LiFePO4

  • LiFePO4 powers 12v breaker box
  • 12v fuse box powers can lights
  • 12v fuse box powers exterior light
  • 12v fuse box powers car stereo in trailer
  • 12v fuse box powers fridge
  • 12v fuse box powers fresh water pump (all cold side plumbing gets done here too)

  • 120/240v breaker box powers rooftop ac unit
  • 120/240v breaker box powers induction cooktop


Camper Utility phase 3 - solar and heat/hot water:

This phase is where I will need to figure out heat and hot water. Hydronic using the diesel tank seems ideal at this point. A chinacom parking liquid heater is pretty economic. I can then use a plate heat exchanger for hot water, and 12v cab heaters to provide hot air to the camper:

Parking Liquid/water Heaters 12kw 12v 24v 5kw 12v For Bus Truck With Diesel Engines Top Quality With Service Parts - Buy 16kw 12v 24v,Parking Liquid Heater,Water Heater For Truck Rv Bus Product on Alibaba.com

Parking Liquid/water Heaters 12kw 12v 24v 5kw 12v For Bus Truck With Diesel Engines Top Quality With Service Parts - Buy 16kw 12v 24v,Parking Liquid Heater,Water Heater For Truck Rv Bus Product on Alibaba.com
www.alibaba.com

Amazon.com: JEGS Auxiliary Heater Assembly | 260 CFM Airflow | 28,000 BTU of Heat | Mountable Switch | Dual Front Vents | 3-Speed Fan | 12-Volt | Compact Design : Automotive

Buy JEGS Auxiliary Heater Assembly | 260 CFM Airflow | 28,000 BTU of Heat | Mountable Switch | Dual Front Vents | 3-Speed Fan | 12-Volt | Compact Design: Heaters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
smile.amazon.com

Instead of the cab heaters, I could also go with radiant floors. That would be pretty dope:

Hydronic Heating Systems - Van Life Tech: Luxury Through Technology

Our proprietary design provides ‘whole house heating’ through a fully integrated Two Stage Hydronic System (Stage I - Radiant floor, Stage II - Fan coil
www.vanlifetech.com www.vanlifetech.com

Solar will be something along these lines:

www.mobile-solarpower.com

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.
www.mobile-solarpower.com
 
Last edited:
I've been dodging rain this week, but was able to get the curb side goose framing finished yesterday. Just needs paint, then duct tape, then skins can go on this side.

driver side of the goose is cut up, just need it to stop raining so I can do the framing over there. I am looking forward to being done with these large framing projects, as I'm looking forward to getting the floors fleshed out.

1620828245593.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh