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The cheap car audio and tuning for us low brow folks

Provience

Kill!
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Thought this thread already existed, couldn't find it :confused: If somebody knows what thread I was thinking of, let me know and i'll delete and toss all this in there.

references: How to Tune an AMP with a Multimeter - electrouniversity.com and Using test tones to set amplifier gain were the two most useful things

Wanted to retune the radio in my pickup, try it out for a bit and mess around with it some more later. Cheap-o setup stuff.

DOVOX single DIN digital media reciever
AUDIOTEK AT-EQ700 7 Band Equalizer
Rockford Fosgate R400-4D amp
CRUNCH CS5768CX 5x7 speaker for dash
jensen octane XDA92RB amp
rockford fosgate 10" sub R2D2
Crunch CS65C component speakers for door

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General rules from projectwin:

Sound deadening is of utmost importance
get the tweeter mounted as high as possible, ear level if you can.
Use digital signal processing and time delay to ensure the cleanest possible sound.
Avoid clipping at all costs, oscilloscope is the easiest way to find amp output waveform clipping.

welp, don't have all those tools so going with the next best thing.

1) Download a frequency/signal generator to your telephone.

2) Ensure all the equalizer stuff is flat and the gain knobs on the amps are all the way down, crossover and filters off

3) pick a channel of speakers to tune and unplug the others, full range are easiest to start with.

4) according to the crutchfield article, use 100,400,800,1000 Hz tones. start low on volume and turn up the receiver until the tone changes, it will be generally obvious. The lowest setting before it changes is where the receiver clips the signal, don't go above that.

4b) for the sub, same thing just use 40 or 60 or 80hz as you see fit and depending on your speaker.

you could stop there and use the same method several times for adjusting gain next, but that is loud and annoying. going to the electron university article and the A/C voltmeter is much quieter.

1) determine your target AC Volt output
E = √PR, where E is the A.C voltage, P is the power (watts) and R is the Resistance (Ohm).
Example:
4 ohm speaker (depends on the speaker and how it is wired)x 250 watt target (based on the product manual output RMS for my amp) = 1000 then square root = 31.622 volts A/C target for subwoofer at 50hz 0db test tone

4 ohm x 75 watt target = 300 then sq rt = 17.32 volts <-target for my mids (and 100hz tone)
100w is 20vac
200w is 28.28vac

2) Disconnect the speaker wires at the amp or the speaker, whichever end is easier to get to

3) play your test tone and set the receiver at your max level without signal clipping.

4) put the leads on the speaker wires, and adjust gain until your target number is met.

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To set the crossover

1) once you've reached your gain, adjust your frequency tone to your desired crossover tone. 80hz is apparently common, so that's what I went with.

2) adjust the crossover knob until you reach 1/2 of your output number, 8.7 VAC in this case.


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and repeat for all your channels. Turn it on and adjust equalizer generally through reductions if you feel the need, but this should keep you in the safe and easy way to get everything moving. Much lower risk than just tossing it in there and making a guess :rasta:
 
Question that seems to come up a bunch, how to add a minimalist stereo system to a buggy or shitbox?

A direct blue tooth adapter to an amplifier to run whichever speakers you have is the easiest way

Audiocontrol AC-BT24 is ~$140 and their D-4.800 amplifier ~$900 will get you 4 channels if you don't want a sub, or run 2 channels and bridge 2 for a subwoofer if you want more bass. Biggest advantage is the immense easy signal control with this setup.




however that isn't very cheap.

Audiocontrol ACV-BT1 (~$90) , or any variation of bluetooth with power, ground, SIGNAL, and RCA output will also work with almost any amplifier out there, such as this Alpine KTA-450 for $220


Alpine KTA-450 Power Pack

and then there is direct from east asia

Audiopipe AP-BTM-1200 ($35) and Skar Audio RP-75.4ABM ($145) both off amazon :rasta:
 
You can buy very useable oscilloscopes for pretty cheap these days. I picked up a pretty nice portable 100MHz 1ch deal for like $65 a while back. It's worth having if you're into cars, I actually use mine every now and then.
 
You're trying way too hard. Old trucks like that sound great with a little sound deadening in the doors and some 6x9s in the doors with a little power driving them.

The no name Amazon deck and equalizer probably aren't going to help you much either.

I'd get a decent deck like a Kenwood with time alignment, built in 13 band eq etc and eliminate the aftermarket eq. Use the fosgate amp and run the components off the front channels and bridge the rear channels for the sub. Set your gains and cutoffs and you'll have a nice sounding system for not much monies.
 
You're trying way too hard. Old trucks like that sound great with a little sound deadening in the doors and some 6x9s in the doors with a little power driving them.

The no name Amazon deck and equalizer probably aren't going to help you much either.

I'd get a decent deck like a Kenwood with time alignment, built in 13 band eq etc and eliminate the aftermarket eq. Use the fosgate amp and run the components off the front channels and bridge the rear channels for the sub. Set your gains and cutoffs and you'll have a nice sounding system for not much monies.

Sure, that'd certainly work. Lots of ways to skin the cats, no name deck and eq together are cheaper than a brand name deck.....until I bought a name brand deck for $40 at the Thrift store, but that's in the farm truck now.

I'm running the door and dash speakers off the Fosgate, easy enough to eliminate the dash speaker if somebody wanted to.


Edit: the no name deck doesn't hurt, just need to find its limit and keep it from clipping, the amps make up for whatever power is needed from there
 
I'd get a decent deck like a Kenwood with time alignment, built in 13 band eq etc and eliminate the aftermarket eq. Use the fosgate amp and run the components off the front channels and bridge the rear channels for the sub. Set your gains and cutoffs and you'll have a nice sounding system for not much monies.

Well well well...:rasta: Kenwood kmm-bt732hd arrived yesterday

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Cheap setup getting a slight bump in price today.

Rockford Fosgate amp has been having an issues with 1 of 4 channels for a little bit. Rather than taking it apart and seeing if I could just resolder or replace something in it, decided to go with a new amp.

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I've wanted to buy something from stereo integrity ever since he gave me a free t shirt a couple years ago and finally was able to justify it to myself. This amp doesn't have crossover, so needed something that did and the Kenwood fits the bill

I've been happy with what I had, might not get to it thus weekend depending on weather, but I imagine I'll be happy with this setup as well :rasta:
 
Alright, another cheap setup that functions.

Jvc kd x380bts head unit for DTA controls
Rockford Fosgate same r400-4d, now only using the rear outputs to power the front 2 speakers as the front outputs are still inconsistent on the right channel
Currently Boss 4 way 6.5 in the door, will swap those out for JVC components once I make up some sail panel mounts
Skar RP1200.1 amp, 500 watts stable at 4 ohm, 1200 at 1 oh.
Skar sdr12-d2 sub, 600w rms dual 2 ohm voice coil wired to 4 ohm

Used all the math above to set gains and crossovers and it pretty well worked out :rasta:

This is for the 1989 Lincoln mark vii lsc. Not particularly concerned with cleaning up the wiring in the trunk or adding sound deadening, factory it's far superior to same year mustang

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:flipoff2::laughing:
 
speaking of stereo....wheres ptrojectwin? nothing on his Utube for 6 months...
 
speaking of stereo....wheres ptrojectwin? nothing on his Utube for 6 months...
He posts the least on YouTube. There's been more updates to his threads here since then

Edit: The RTA Walkthrough and Usage thread. With Video.

 
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