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The AR assembly thread

Gatorgrizz27

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I hate people calling AR’s “built” when they screwed some parts together. 80%’s count. So let’s see your latest or past AR assemblies and parts lists. Can be a place for stupid newbs to ask dumb questions also. :flipoff2:

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Lower

Runner Runner Texas flag lower receiver

Larue MBT trigger

Magpul UBR FDE stock

Springco green buffer spring

A5H2 buffer




Upper

Midwest Industries upper receiver

Midwest Industries combat rail lightweight 10.5” handguard

Larue Stealth 14.5” barrel

Larue gas tube

SLR Sentry 7 adjustable gas block

Dead air key micro brake, pinned and welded

PSA Premium bolt carrier group

BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 charging handle




Optics

Leupold Mark AR 1” scope mount

Leupold Mark AR Mod 1 1.5-4 SPR Illuminated scope




Sling

Midwest Industries HD QD sling swivels

Magpul MS-1 sling
 
working on my assembly, still have to mill the lower.
going to be a ar45.
to go with my 9
as well as the 5 other bastard ar chitlins.
 
Pistol AR 11-3 build.jpg


Aero M4E1 lower/upper combo
Ballistic advantage 13.3 barrel, Rainier Arms Nickle Boron match bolt, Rise LE drop in trigger, SI 45^ safety, Phase 5 BAD, SBA 3 brace, Midwest Industries ultra-lite handguard, topped off with a Strikefire II R/G red dot
 
A note for people putting together an AR...

1) RISE triggers do NOT work with Timber Creek Safety 45^ levers, will not safe.
2) The same TC safety levers seem to have a issue with SOME CMC triggers, however I have a limited example to test with. (Edit 1)


I will add to this as I come across other little tidbits and tips.
 
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80% lower, timney trigger, magpull grips and stock, Troy handguard, 16" Ballistic Advatage (maybe) barrel, Precision Armament EFAB brake, Primary Arms 1-6 scope with ACSS reticle. It's my go-to for 3-gun and shoots super flat, and accurate out past 400yds with 77g ML262 ammo.

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AR Pistol on 80% lower, 10.5" Adams Arms adjustable piston upper, Sig Brace, Timmney Trigger, Surefire can, bigass light and Aimpoint PRO. It's my house gun.

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Nothing special.

Top is my “Parts Box” build.
Stripped lower was a gift from my brother, upper was a gift from another brother. Anderson M4ish barrel (another gift). Butt stock, handgaurd, barrel nut and delta ring, gas block and tube, muzzle brake, Burris Gast Fire III, pistol grip, upper/lower parts were all left overs from my brothers builds. Only thing I had to buy was the BCG, a PSA blemish, for $74 including shipping.

Middle is a bone stock ‘73 vintage SP1 my dad picked up in ‘78, gave to me a couple years ago. It was in between the other two in the safe, so it’s got in the picture as well.

Bottom is a TAC poly lower, PSA blem upper, Dead Shot Barrels 16” .338 Federal barrel with whatever adjustable gas block they use, no name A2 buttstock, PSA BCG, and PSA upper and lower parts kit. Still need to pick up a hand guard (or at least a barrel nut) and some dies to make it go bang.

photo2887.jpg
 
I’ve been in to short barrel firearms for quite some time. My first was the Bushmaster Carbon 15 Type 97 Pistol. A fairly dismal affair, I would have sold it a long time ago if not for my “never sell a firearm” policy. It was unique because it met all of the requirements for a pistol that were in force at the time. Less than 50 oz., no handguard, shot from one hand only. As such, the upper and lower receivers are made from carbon fiber. It had a proprietary buffer/buffer tube and barrel and muzzle brake. I quickly learned two things: no AR15 should be made out of plastic and no 5.56X45 NATO round should ever be fired from a 7” barrel. You absolutely need ear plugs AND muffs shooting it. It spits a huge fireball and gives you a big thump to the chest. It was not that easy to shoot well either.


Original Type 97.jpg
 
As regulations eased over the years, it’s morphed into this. It’s much easier to shoot, but still quite an asshole. It’s only redeeming value is that it’s still quite light: 4 lb., 13 oz.


C15 Type 97.jpg
 
Next came the Mossberg 12 ga, Shockwave. I know, I know, it’s not an AR15 but still… It was huge fun to shoot but hard to shoot well. Adding the SB Tactical brace, Crimson Trace laser saddle, and shooting minishells with the OpSol adapter made it into a very competent home defense gun.


Shockwave.jpg


Shockwave.jpg
 
Then came the .300 ACC Blackout cartridge. It was designed for a 9” barrel, available in 200+ gr. subsonics and 90-125 gr. supersonics. With the same case diameter as the 5.56, the gun shares many parts with the standard AR 15 and the same magazine capacity. The ammo is relatively cheap too, not 5.56 level but $0.37 to 1.00+ per round.

I pulled out the two S&W M&P lowers I had laying around since Obama’s first days in office and order up 8.5” and 10.5” uppers from Palmetto State. I had many of the rest of the required parts in stock (including the C-More Railway red dot sight) to make two shootable firearms, but the other upgrades probably tripled the cost of each. Both have Franklin Armory Binary trigger systems (100% legal fun switches) and JP Enterprises Silent captured springs. And the Q Trash Panda sound suppressor.

Shooting suppressed, you are amazed by the amount of noise the recoil system makes in an AR15, the JP recoil system really quiets it down. Small bits include finger stops, labeled dust covers, and QD end plates. The 10.5” gun also got a Vortex 3X red dot sight.

8 Inch.jpg

10 Inch.jpg




The 8.5” gun is tuned for suppressed subsonics and the 10.5” for supersonics, but either can shoot both flavors, suppressed or not. The 8.5” gun now has the heaviest spring in the JP tuner pack and two tungsten buffer weights; I’m currently tuning the 10.5” gun. I am definitely not in the “never leave an M- LOK slot unfilled, tacticool as fuck crowd – exactly what you need and nothing more.
 
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Then came the .300 ACC Blackout cartridge. It was designed for a 9” barrel, available in 200+ gr. subsonics and 90-125 gr. supersonics. With the same case diameter as the 5.56, the gun shares many parts with the standard AR 15 and the same magazine capacity. The ammo is relatively cheap too, not 5.56 level but $0.37 to 1.00+ per round.

I pulled out the two S&W M&P lowers I had laying around since Obama’s first days in office and order up 8.5” and 10.5” uppers from Palmetto State. I had many of the rest of the required parts in stock (including the C-More Railway red dot sight) to make two shootable firearms, but the other upgrades probably tripled the cost of each. Both have Franklin Armory Binary trigger systems (100% legal fun switches) and JP Enterprises Silent captured springs. And the Q Trash Panda sound suppressor.

Shooting suppressed, you are amazed by the amount of noise the recoil system makes in an AR15, the JP recoil system really quiets it down. Small bits include finger stops, labeled dust covers, and QD end plates. The 10.5” gun also got a Vortex 3X red dot sight.






The 8.5” gun is tuned for suppressed subsonics and the 10.5” for supersonics, but either can shoot both flavors, suppressed or not. The 8.5” gun now has the heaviest spring in the JP tuner pack and two tungsten buffer weights; I’m currently tuning the 10.5” gun. I am definitely not in the “never leave an M- LOK slot unfilled, tacticool as fuck crowd – exactly what you need and nothing more.

Nice. I have an 8.5” .300 Blackout as well, need to take a pic of it and I’ll post it up. With an H2 buffer it’s run everything I’ve fed it, from 220 subs to 125 superstar.
 
Thought I had a parts list somewhere, but can’t find it. It’s a PSA 8.5” upper, I went through it and drilled/locktited/staked the gas block. It’s got a Midwest Industries 9” handguard with their blast diverter, Troy sights, lighter weight polished trigger, Sig Romeo 5 red dot, SBA3, Springco red spring and H2 buffer. Fits in a small backpack with 3 mags as my truck gun.

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Built a couple of 6.5 grendel rifles last year.
6.5 grendel rifle.jpg

16" carbine odin works BBL and BCG, BAD lightweight upper lower and handguard, MFT stock and grip, KME trigger, JP captured recoil spring, and primary arms 1-6 ffp scope.
Turned out really light with a lot more punch than 223, which is what I wanted.

6.5 grendel carbine.jpg

20" rifle odin works BBL and BCG, Aero upper and lower, geisley handguard, timney trigger, Fagpull stock and grip, JP recoil spring and SWFA 16X scope and rings.
Haven't shot it too much yet, would like to get it out to stretch it's legs out to 500 yards.
 
Consecutive numbered Anderson lowers.
psa uppers, 16 inch mid length, 16 inch carbine, 10.5 carbine.
All have the same internals and external doodads. The 10.5 did get tungsten weights in the buffer to make it cycle correctly.

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Well ok here is another one I did a build up on.

Aero lower (M4), PSA 16" upper, WMD NiB-X BCG, Hera stock, WMD NiB-X trigger group , BAD lever, Sitemark Ultrashot M-spec. did the Krylon paintjob myself, spent 2 days cleaning then 4 days painting and baked on with heat lamp. Durable so far.

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Well ok here is another one I did a build up on.

Aero lower (M4), PSA 16" upper, WMD NiB-X BCG, Hera stock, WMD NiB-X trigger group , BAD lever, Sitemark Ultrashot M-spec. did the Krylon paintjob myself, spent 2 days cleaning then 4 days painting and baked on with heat lamp. Durable so far.

filedata/fetch?id=12654&d=1590459507

Is that stock some sort of CA legal thing? If so it looks to be one of the better ones I’ve seen. Fuck CA and their stupid gun laws anyways :flipoff:
 
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Is that stock some sort of CA legal thing? If so it looks to be one of the better ones I’ve seen. Fuck CA and their stupid gun laws anyways :flipoff:

Nope, that is a HERA stock, and they do make a "CA Legal" one that ain't it. I wanted to build a fixed stock for giggles, and they make the best of them. Really really well built.
 
Last two I put together were a SBR 300 aac and a 20" AR10.

The SBR was a sub gun and I wanted it as quiet as possible... Adams arms piston kit, JP captured spring. It took some fucking with to run reliably but it does pretty damn good.

The 10 replaced the one I had stolen. I figured I changed enough shit on it, just start from scratch. PSA upper, lower and bolt carrier group. 20" ss match grade barrel. Pretty much all my ARs get a Giessel S3G trigger and a JP spring. Pics are too big to post
 
My 6.5 creedmore build. Aero upper, lower and handguard, Faxon 20" fluted bbl and BCG, ELF trigger, JP recoil spring, magpull stock and grip, Nikon scope and mount.
6.5 creedmore.jpg


Chamber has been a bit tight causing some stuck cases. Very happy with the accuracy though.
 
My first and only build. Probably doesn't quite qualify for this thread. Wasn't quite too sure what I was doing when I got into it. Went to a recommended place and this is what he set me up with.

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Walked out with that and 1000rds for a bit less than $1000. That was a blast to put together. Ended up having to take two passes with an emery board on the buffer tube. The retainer spring would pop out. I'd tighten it another turn and hit the nipple. So a quick with with the emery to literally remove a layer of the paint took care of it.

Equipped with the simple Romeo5 since there is just about zero place to do any long distance stuff. Fires well. A Larue setup will probably be next. Perhaps build myself 1911.
 
My 6.5 creedmore build. Aero upper, lower and handguard, Faxon 20" fluted bbl and BCG, ELF trigger, JP recoil spring, magpull stock and grip, Nikon scope and mount.

Chamber has been a bit tight causing some stuck cases. Very happy with the accuracy though.

Call Faxon and tell them, I will bet dollars to donunts they will ship you a new one and take that one back.
 
Call Faxon and tell them, I will bet dollars to donunts they will ship you a new one and take that one back.

I am sure they would, but I am not too concerned. Will probably hit it with some lapping compound if it causes me more issues. A chamber brush has cleared it up twice so far, just doing it by hand.
 
Currently trying to finish this one off so I can move to building a 9mm AR.


delta tactical 458 upper
juggernaut lower with strike industries parts, better trigger etc.

need a scope and planned to suppress it but not sure.

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Just ordered this from PSA. 10.5, 5.56. I have an 80% that's not milled yet. Also ordered a Romeo 5. This is my first AR build so I'm sure I'll have questions.
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I'm starting to put together a parts list for a "This state blows" faux AR. Since I cant have an AR, the plan is to buy a Flightlite SCR lower and build that instead. Anyone have any recommendations on side charging uppers that dont need special BCGs? Due to the design of the SCR I have to use their BCG. I was looking at the Gibbz G4 upper. anything else I should consider?
 
My 6.5 creedmore build. Aero upper, lower and handguard, Faxon 20" fluted bbl and BCG, ELF trigger, JP recoil spring, magpull stock and grip, Nikon scope and mount.

Chamber has been a bit tight causing some stuck cases. Very happy with the accuracy though.

I just found this video the other day. Apparently some cases have been coming out with longer than spec base to shoulder dimensions.

https://youtu.be/5KDrLsnt2MM

I have a 6.5 Creedmoor bolt gun and haven’t had any issues with it, but I could see how an AR-10 slamming a round in there could get one stuck.

Also, I assume you DO have a 6.5 barrel on there, right? Guy at the range the other week had an AR-10 and kept getting cases stuck. He was told he had bought a 6.5 and had the correct ammo, but the barrel was marked .308. I got the hell out of there. :laughing:
 
I'm starting to put together a parts list for a "This state blows" faux AR. Since I cant have an AR, the plan is to buy a Flightlite SCR lower and build that instead. Anyone have any recommendations on side charging uppers that dont need special BCGs? Due to the design of the SCR I have to use their BCG. I was looking at the Gibbz G4 upper. anything else I should consider?

I actually like the looks of them, even though I’m in a free state. They just seem more appropriate for a hunting gun to me, I typically shoot bolt guns. I was looking at side chargers when I was building my first AR, but decided I’d be better off learning to use the platform as designed. If you’re planning to drill and tap the FightLite bolt carrier for the charging handle, I’d buy two spares also. Drill and tap the second so you can swap it in quickly if you happen to break one, and then leave the other stock in case you find the drilling and tapping causes failures.
 
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