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Texas Star Build Thread

TanTJJim

Red Skull Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
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I always thought a Texas Star would be really fun to practice on but the prices are a little cost prohibitive and you have to manually reset them each time so I'm going to try and build my own with the these features:

1. The targets will fold back instead of fall off so they're easy to reset.
2. If item 1 actually works I'll try to find a way to remotely reset the targets so you can keep shooting on a hot range.

I'll start fabrication this weekend so if anything sounds super stupid let me know and I'll consider design changes before I start, here's my ideas so far.


Center pivot will be a dolly hub and bearings. If this doesn't work I'll either use pillow blocks like most setups use, or a trailer axle spindle and hub. The cost of the first option is super cheap but may not hold up. The cost of the last 2 options are pretty much the same.

Arms will be 3/16" mild steel angle iron which will hopefully hold up to pistol rounds by glancing them off.

Targets will be 3/8" thick 6" hardox gongs.

Targets will be mounted to a hinge with a spring to hold them in position. This will be what I understand is a bistable configuration so it'll hold it in place until hit, when hit it will pull the target back to help with the imbalance needed to do Texas Star things.

To remotely reset the targets I'll use either universal door lock actuators, or door popper solenoids if the actuators aren't strong enough. The remote setup to control the system will just be a universal door lock setup.

I'll post pics of the build as I start and may be able to do preliminary testing this weekend. Will see how this stupid project goes!
 
The whole point of the star is that the targets drop to make it off balance and start spinning. I’m curious how much movement you’ll get if they just fold back.
If one arm is effectively shorter because of weight distribution, it should produce less torque at the hub relative the the other 4 arms and cause it to spin to the top. Probably not as fast as dropping the weight though.

I'll qualify my comment as coming from an armchair engineer that plays in the dirt.
 
The whole point of the star is that the targets drop to make it off balance and start spinning. I’m curious how much movement you’ll get if they just fold back.

I'm curious to see if this works as well. The gongs are about 3 pounds each so there will definitely be imbalance when the fold back, we'll see if it's enough to make it do Texas Star things
 
What keeps the folded target from self resetting when it spins to the bottom?

Springs. Using a bistable mechanism it'll hold the target in the up position until hit, after it gets hit the mechanism will hold it in the down position, in theory. We'll see if I'm able to get it to actually work this weekend.
 
Springs. Using a bistable mechanism it'll hold the target in the up position until hit, after it gets hit the mechanism will hold it in the down position, in theory. We'll see if I'm able to get it to actually work this weekend.
Post pictures, I'm interested to see it.
 


Seen this video?


I have not seen that thanks for sharing, his solution is really good!

Instead of having something push like he has I'm going to try to pull using springs but the method is pretty much the same. I'm hoping that by using springs, the force needed to reset the targets is low enough that I can use some cheap actuators but we'll see, the plates are relatively heavy!

Post pictures, I'm interested to see it.

For sure, I'll probably have something to share by Friday.
 
a lot slower reacting than the real deal.

and it does not look like it would go all the way around from interia

I would suspect that is in large part due to the spindle bearings. It looks like most high end ones use pillow blocks with a solid rod through them.

Personally I'm not going to focus much on the speed of it unless it's terribly slow. The speed of the one in the video would be fine for me. I just want something that's fun to shoot at.


edit. I did find out today that remote door lock actuators won't work. Despite claiming 13 pounds of force I'm only measuring like 3 pounds max. I'll take a look at other options but door poppers may be the ticket, they claim upwards of 100 pounds of force which will be way more than enough to reset the targets.
 
Here are some quick prototypes just to see if my math on the springs was close and I think we're looking good. When the target is up I can shake it a fair bit and it won't close accidentally. Will need to have something fully assembled to see if it will hold up in use but I'm optimistic.

When the target is down there's 1ft/lbs holding it down. When the target is up it takes 1.5 ft/lbs to knock it down. I'd like to be able to trip the targets with 22lr and this is well within what it would take a 22lr to knock it down even with a hit close to the pivot.

I need to find a good way to protect the hinge and springs but I'll probably have prototype #2 done tomorrow.
IMG_20231122_183046285.jpg
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Here are some quick prototypes just to see if my math on the springs was close and I think we're looking good. When the target is up I can shake it a fair bit and it won't close accidentally. Will need to have something fully assembled to see if it will hold up in use but I'm optimistic.

When the target is down there's 1ft/lbs holding it down. When the target is up it takes 1.5 ft/lbs to knock it down. I'd like to be able to trip the targets with 22lr and this is well within what it would take a 22lr to knock it down even with a hit close to the pivot.

I need to find a good way to protect the hinge and springs but I'll probably have prototype #2 done tomorrow.
IMG_20231122_183046285.jpg
IMG_20231122_183055542.jpg
IMG_20231122_183103201.jpg
Move the spring attachment down. So everything is hidden by the angle iron?
 
Move the spring attachment down. So everything is hidden by the angle iron?
I think I may be able to get away with moving the attaching point of the spring from the side to the middle and just have it go directly over the hinge, will try a couple of things today.
 
I think I may be able to get away with moving the attaching point of the spring from the side to the middle and just have it go directly over the hinge, will try a couple of things today.

So this didn't work, it would hold the target up but just barely. The real ticket is just to have the pivot point far enough above the spring which provides the correct force to hold the target up, but not so much that would prevent a hit from folding it back.

Here's prototype #2 which should be good enough for me to throw some lead at it tomorrow and see if the holding force needs to increase or not, I think it will but prototype #3 will fix a lot of problems I ran into today and I'll have a lot better control of the forces based on the feedback from tomorrow.

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And some very rough prototypes of the full star minus 3 targets (the steel supply shop only had 3 and I want to save the third for the next prototype)

And no, the arms aren't close to even, that'll get fixed in the next full star prototype. I just need to see how much friction the bearings have tomorrow.

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Lots of lessons learned today but I have a lot of confidence now that I have a good understanding of what needs done to make it functional and reliable. Good stuff!
 
Well it certainly works! I was really surprised how well the target with the lightest spring tension performed. 22lr tripped it no problem, even with hits close to the hinge and when I hit targets with 40 S&W it didn't accidentally trip the targets.

The heavier tensioned target wouldn't trip with 22lr when hit near the hinge. I think I'll plan on leaving the targets at the lower tension and seeing if that works for pistol as well as 22lr long term.

I'm really surprised with how well everything worked for just being slapped together as a prototype. I'd definitely like to build a more polished version at some point but for now this thing works and I'm going to use it til it's dead 😁

As it sits with only the 2 targets:

IMG_20231124_153550364_HDR.jpg


And a quick video playing around with it:

 
well that's a fun video, even with just a couple pads on there

Definitely, I probably went through 50 rounds testing today and if the sun wasn't going down I would have ran through another 100 rounds, good times!

I like not having to pick up the plates. It doesn’t look like it moves fast like regular Texas stars.

It is pretty slow comparatively, I think longer arms and 8" plates would help but I don't see it ever getting as fast as a competitive model.

that should increae when he adds the missing pads

I think so as well, it seemed like the imbalance of the missing 3 plates really slowed it down. Hopefully the steel supply store has more plates in stock next week. If they do I should have a 100% working model next weekend.


There is one major concern and that's the angle iron arms, I think they're dangerous and the next model would have AR500 flat arms.

I did a bit of research and the consensus seems to be that you want the round to hit a flat plate angled slightly down so the round splatters and is directed down. My fear with the angle iron is that it can deflect a round keeping it somewhat whole and sending it God knows where, not good. I'm glad I researched this because this is a serious design flaw that I need to fix.
 
Here's the BOM as is, swapping out the angle iron for AR500 plate for the arms I'm guessing would cost $50?

1 harbor freight dolly hub - $15
5 6" AR500 plates - $100
1 5/8" x 10" solid rod - $20
1 foot of 1 3/4" x 0.120" wall steel tube - $5
13 feet of 2"x2" 0.120" wall square steel tube - $75
8 feet of 2" 0.120 wall angle iron - $20
5 door hinges - $5
5 9/16"x6" springs - $20
5 3/8" x 2" bolts n nuts - $10

It will weigh around 70 lbs with all the plates. Total cost is $270 and build time has been @8 hours but I could probably drop that to 3-4 hours pretty easily. Not too bad for what it is!
 
That angle iron won't tolerate a beating, BTDT. When I cobble up targets (nothing as intricate as what you have done) I use old axle shafts. I got a shit-ton of Toyota first gen spares (for some reason :laughing:) or 3/4 ton Dodge steering links. Those can take a beating...
 
That angle iron won't tolerate a beating, BTDT. When I cobble up targets (nothing as intricate as what you have done) I use old axle shafts. I got a shit-ton of Toyota first gen spares (for some reason :laughing:) or 3/4 ton Dodge steering links. Those can take a beating...

I agree, the angle iron was a bad idea all the way around, if I make an updated version the arms will be AR500 flat plate for the reasons I detailed above.

A regular Texas Star is NBD, you just have to shoot the targets in order. Now this fucking thing is a whole nother level.

That looks like a lot of fun...for someone with some, above average, skills. Unfortunately that person is not me and that target would probably drive me to an early grave :lmao:.

Gotta be super cool watching a talented person take that thing down though :smokin:
 
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