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Tell me why I shouldn’t - Truck pipe racks

89Breaker

89Breaker

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Joined
May 20, 2020
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793
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I need to remove and store my truck rack that’s similar to the picture.

I don’t have the ceiling space and don’t want to give up a bunch of floor space.

I’m thinking about cutting it down the middle and then sleeve the pipes with bolts for reassembly.
The rear bar is removable so one the front two bars need cutting. I don’t want to sell the rack but don’t need it everyday and it makes the truck too tall.

Seems straight forward to me and would probably do a 12” sleeve with 6” overlap on each side.

I just pulled the 12” measurement out of the air so is that enough? Is there a better way?

View attachment IMG_7360.webp
 
Make the sleeves full width, leave 6" stubs on each side for your overlap. My brain says you'll get more shear less bending that way and it'll store smaller.

Or cut and sleeve the legs if you have garage space to hang the rack. That's way you're only losing 6-9" of head room
 
D Nelly said:
Make the sleeves full width, leave 6" stubs on each side for your overlap. My brain says you'll get more shear less bending that way and it'll store smaller.

Or cut and sleeve the legs if you have garage space to hang the rack. That's way you're only losing 6-9" of head room
Click to expand...

So you’re saying to remove MORE material and essentially leave only 6” of the original crossbars per side? The sleeve would essentially become the crossbar?
 
Learn to post pics:
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:flipoff2:
 
Another option is to cut and sleeve all the verticals and leave the top as one piece.
 
89Breaker said:
So you’re saying to remove MORE material and essentially leave only 6” of the original crossbars per side? The sleeve would essentially become the crossbar?
Click to expand...

D Nelly said:
Ya. The engineer part of my brain says it'll be stronger that way. If you can get the sleeve to touch the side rails on both sides it'll pretty much just push straight down on the welds. If you only sleeve the middle any weight is going to try to bend the sleeve/tweak the rails inside the sleeves.
Click to expand...

Think of the joints as pinned connections that can hinge. If the joint is in the middle and the sides are fixed, any loading is going to want to bend the crossbar at the hinge in the middle even with the fixed sides. You're trying to rely on the strength of the sides as cantilevers. But if the crossbar is solid and the sides are hinged, it isn't going to want to bend even though the sides can hinge - well, until you exceed the strength of the crossbar and physically bend the crossbar.

A strong enough sleeve in the center would overcome the inclination to hinge, but you're fighting those forces. Easier to keep the middle solid and hinge the ends.

Think of the crossbars on scaffolding. They just pin at the connections and rely on tension to keep the scaffold secured.

MF5647-SET-2.jpg
 
I always hate when people just explain things with "do it this way" and little more. I was the one always getting in trouble with the teachers - particularly math - because I wanted to understand what I was doing rather than just "use this formula here." Better to get the "why" of it so that next time you have some level of understanding to figure it out on your own.
 
Are you removing the racks by yourself? By hand or with some kind of overhead hoist?
 
M92PV4U said:
Are you removing the racks by yourself? By hand or with some kind of overhead hoist?
Click to expand...

By hand without hoist and the helpers aren’t big enough to do anything but get hurt…little ones.

That was part of the original idea, makes it easier to get off and on.
 
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