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Tapping large quantity of holes in overhead steel.

MigGunslinger said:
I know a thread like this is always going to bring out alternate ideas and opinions, that is a good thing. If they don't work or are not applicable to my situation they may be to someone else searching the topic.

I also feel like I have not explained fully all of the issues we ran into installing the fasteners before sheetrock. Yes, the mudders covered the threads, sometimes they removed bolts entirely or bent them / fucked the threads. Yes, we could back charge the other sub and make up for the time lost fixing all of the issues plus hope the wiry apprentice does not fall through the ceiling. I hate working like that, I want to get in get out and get paid, not dick around for weeks with some PE fresh out of Chico State's CM program that likes to act tough over email. There are also other practical reasons for drilling after finish is up, there is some leeway in locating the components and adjustability in the system but If the bolts are already in and a wall gets an extra layer of rock for fire rating or something we are locked in to what we did in rough.

Bottom line is we have 20 year employees doing this stuff every day and those guys agree that best practice is to drill and tap after sheetrock goes up so it's my job to make sure they have what they need to do it right and just maybe make it faster / better / more consistent with a whiz bang new tool.
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Could you just tap the holes in rough in, put place holder studs in until the sheet rock is done, then go back unscrew the post and install your fasteners? I'm envisioning something like a long bolt minus the hex head, or with a hex head smaller than the diameter of the stud that is only threaded an inch or two on the bottom. That way you could ensure your hole placement before the rock goes up.
 
I charged up the Metabo batteries and tapped a few 3/8"-16 holes in 1/4" steel this morning. Everything went pretty good but it takes a bit of getting used to backing off instead of reversing the drill. Setting the torque adjustment was simple just start low and dial it up to where it will just barely cut. By the end I could easily tap 10+ holes in under a minute if I get the motion down. When the torque limit is exceeded it stops and beeps at you.

I used the Champion XL22 spiral point taps meant for use with the champion corded tapping gun, so I figured they would be a good choice. I also tried using some standard 1/4"-20 and 5/16"-18 taps that I had around the house. I snapped the 5/16" almost immediately but was able to baby the 1/4" though 1 hole. No doubt the tap style is the difference, I got a stick of wax lube and a full set of champion XL22 taps and drills coming for the odd time we will have to tap something other than 3/8".

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Don't mind the 3/8" hole, I totally did not accidently drill that before finding the 5/16" drill bit.:homer:
 
MigGunslinger said:
I also tried using some standard 1/4"-20 and 5/16"-18 taps that I had around the house. I snapped the 5/16" almost immediately but was able to baby the 1/4" though 1 hole. No doubt the tap style is the difference, I got a stick of wax lube and a full set of champion XL22 taps and drills coming for the odd time we will have to tap something other than 3/8".
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Ok, I got the set of smaller Champion XL22 taps in and they worked great, Kinda bugs me that 2 have a different finish but whatever. All of the square drive ends I tried fit into one or the other of the Metabo Chucks just fine.

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I tested 1/4", 5/16", and 1/2" and they all worked great: It was kinda weird but the larger sizes almost use less force than the smaller, Maybe because there is a larger chip clearance area?


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Tech Tim said:
Here is an interesting tool for drilling in overheads, maybe can be irate-modded enough to work for your needs:
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That's neat. The boss had some kind of long upside down drill press on a pole thing that he was trying to connect to the corded milwaukee widowmaker before cordless tools became widely used in industry. That looks much simpler and lighter.
 
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