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Stupid heavy truck/trailer axle question

The tube doesn’t need to be round. All my conveyors have square tubes. The orange one I fixed was a 8x8 x3/8 square tube.

Budget constraints. New pipe is cheaper per pound than structural which is mostly a reflection of who my supplier options are and who they cater to. I can always just step up a pipe size if I need more beef. Used material and it's not even a question. Used structural tube is barely better than new even at retail prices. Pipe is much more readily availible in any given dimension and much more frequently cheap.


Then uses implement hubs and spindles. That fucker weighs more than 10k.

The spindles and hubs are cheap. $80-120 a side.

Just a random site. Ag Spindles-Hubs

I can see why those ag spindles are so attractive for what you do but they just don't fit my needs. The thing that always rules out ag stuff for me is the tire and rim options. If I had farm shit lying around and only needed to go low speeds I'd probably do that but that's not the case so I'd need to find a way to run road tires on them which becomes kind of a mess with the ag bolt patterns and rim size options. Even if this didn't need to do road speed I would use road tires anyway because used road tires are just about the only thing readily available free/cheap around here.

For the ~3k per wheel ballpark I tend to err toward Ford E350 stuff because I can get them for under $50 for everything at the junkyard, sometimes closer to $25 depending on who's at the desk. Of course I need to dick around with cutting tools before I can slap it in the lathe and make it fit the tube but a $100 hole saw investment would solve that (probably not gonna happen this time around). What would really kick ass would be some sort of carbide insert holder that's thin and long enough I can stick it on my toolpost and come in from the Z-axis and skip the time consuming step of going from "steering knuckle" to "shape I can reasonably turn down and have a tool that takes $.50 inserts rather than a $100 hole saw.

If I had tons of thick flat plate drops around I would probably do GM unit bearings. For heavier stuff that's what FF rear axles are for. The issue I'm running up against here is tires. If I could have gone deckover and ran dual wheels we wouldn't be having this thread because I'd have already done it.

I spent highschool dicking around with boat trailers so I'm fairly allergic to trailer suspension hardware hence my desire to keep this single axle. I have so much random light truck stuff around that a single axle on truck springs is free using junk whereas if I went with two axles I'd have to use trailer hardware which tacks another $100-$150 to the cost depending on spring choice.

I'm not gonna talk about the deal I'm getting because whenever I mention plans they fall through but I think I have a line on a pair of MDT axles with rims and tires that will make doing it "wrong" like this an overall lower project cost by a long shot.
 
So how the fuck do I get the kingpin out of this?

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The wedge bolt will be good and stuck. The king pin will also probably be real stuck. Used to just send the pin right through with a big press not even bothering with the wedge bolt.
 
The wedge bolt will be good and stuck. The king pin will also probably be real stuck. Used to just send the pin right through with a big press not even bothering with the wedge bolt.
That explains why I couldn't find a head and there wasn't a hex socket in there.

I'll go drive the wedge out, hit it with some penetrating oil and ignore it for a week. :laughing:
 
Caliper retainer bolt came right out. Someone had put anti-sieze on it. Caliper retainers required an 8lb sledge and punch. Calipers needed a big crowbar to come off the rotors. Calipers are symmetrical so they can swap left/right. 2.5" pistons. Not sure if I'm gonna use them.

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What's up with this random small steel plate welded in here? Balancing? It doesn't look like a patch for anything. None of the other spokes have it.

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Did you get the king pin out?

It could be bottle shaped and only come out the bottom.
 
Did you get the king pin out?

It could be bottle shaped and only come out the bottom.
Haven't even tried yet. I'm gonna try driving it out the bottom with a sledge. Youtube makes it not look hard so how hard can it be. :laughing:
 
LOL it is easier with the axle mounted on the truck still.

I have had some pretty bad ones. I hope they come out easily for you.
 
Got the first one out.

Had to weld a handle onto a big punch so the girlfriend could hold it from a safe distance while I use the sledge.

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Nice,
I don't care who you are, swinging a sledge hammer will wear a guy out.
 
Did the 2nd kingpin Friday. I mushroomed my punch (which was just some (1" or some A36 hex stock) and I wound up having to grind a few thou off the first kingpin and use that as the punch.

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The backing plate nuts were pretty fucked. Should have been 3/4 but I had to hammer 18mm over them and use the big impact.
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Cut the spindle down after removing the backing plate. Unlike a light truck spindle the entire thing is one forging. On one hand that makes it stronger. On the other hand that means I can't take it apart by cutting half way through and then cracking it with a BFH. I'm really not thrilled to only have 3/8" or so going into the tube but I guess it's fine.

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why did you take the kingpin out if you were just cutting the ears off
why cut the ears off when you can just weld the knuckle to the beam
why ditch the waaay nice drop beam for tube

so much wrong
 
why did you take the kingpin out if you were just cutting the ears off
why cut the ears off when you can just weld the knuckle to the beam
why ditch the waaay nice drop beam for tube

so much wrong
Just make a bracket to lock the tie rod and done. Then you can adjust toe.

Another cool option, steerable trailer.
 
why did you take the kingpin out if you were just cutting the ears off
why cut the ears off when you can just weld the knuckle to the beam
why ditch the waaay nice drop beam for tube

so much wrong

Using the beam would result in the wrong axle width by a fuckton.
The perches are nowhere near where they need to be.
I'm saving the beam to use as a spreader bar for lifting shit.
I could cobble new perches on but I'm shooting for making this look nice and professional to the untrained eye. Old drop axle with new perches and locked out steering doesn't cut it.
 
Did the rough machining on one of the spindles today.

The forging machines beautifully. Even the interrupted cut wasn't too bad.

There's fucktons of slop in my compound that I need to somehow get out.

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