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Stump grinder tractor

It or a variation of it worked great when attached to the end of the auger flight, (thats the term for the spiral part of the auger).

Or there is always this, if you wanna get serious.




www.equipmentworld.com

Premier stump planer auger promises cleaner, quieter stump grinding

Premier Attachments’ stump planer auger is designed to safely grind stumps without mess and noise. The auger is available in 12- or 16-inch diameter. The company recommends the 12-inch size for standard-flow drive units and the 16-inch for one of the company’s high-torque drive units. Both will...
www.equipmentworld.com www.equipmentworld.com


back woods said:
Not sure how those work for large stumps or chasing roots around.
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My wife inherited a South Bend lathe and a Central vertical mill this summer. Definitely coming in handy with this build.

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The PTO sheave pulley (mounted on the tractor) had a smaller groove than the clutch so it had to be opened up.

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Clutch appears to be a pretty stout unit. Got a chunk of 1” keyed to build an adapter.

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This is what they say about the clutch.
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Starter is a mess, might be able to find a new one or someone to rebuild this one.

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Got the clutch adapter built today. The motor is a 1-3/8” shaft and has half of an L jaw coupler on it. I cut the ears off the coupler, drilled and tapped it. The 1” adapter bolts to it, came out pretty straight.


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arse_sidewards said:
Use more. Shell mill vs flycutter. Also less vibration from engaging/disengaging with the work.
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Good thinking, I will run 16 if they all fit.

These are the teeth.

www.ebay.com

COMPLETE DOSKO 691 STUMP GRINDER TEETH KIT - GENUINE GREENTEETH PRODUCTS | eBay

DESIGNED FOR THE DOSKO 691 8 TOOTH SETUP & OTHERS. WE ARE AN AUTHORIZED GREENTEETH DEALER. THIS GENUINE GREENTEETH KIT INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING. 8- 700 SERIES GREENTEETH. THIS KIT INCLUDES ENOUGH HARDWARE TO MOUNT 8 TEETH TO A 3/8" CUTTER WHEEL.
www.ebay.com
 
After some consideration I decided to go with a 12 tooth set. They are Green Teeth 700 series, made for a 3/8” thick wheel.

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New muffler
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Future 1” to 1-3/8” adapter

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Got the wheel bolted to the gearbox for mock up. Has about 1/16” runout side to side, I can live with that. Was about 1/8” and I heated up the area with a torch and it settled at 1/16”.


It gets close to the tire but with a shroud it will be no problem.

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You gonna hook it up to the spindle/knuckle so you drive up to the stump and turn the steering wheel to make a pass?
 
Is the frame gonna be fixed, or are you running a separate hydraulic setup to lift and side to side? I can’t be bothered to look back, but what rpm do you get at the hub? I can’t get a 540 or 1000 rpm hyd motor as I plan my skid steer mounted version.
 
cervelorod said:
Is the frame gonna be fixed, or are you running a separate hydraulic setup to lift and side to side? I can’t be bothered to look back, but what rpm do you get at the hub? I can’t get a 540 or 1000 rpm hyd motor as I plan my skid steer mounted version.
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Cutter head speed will be between 1800-2200rpm. The hydraulics to power the up-down, left-right will be ran by the hydraulic pump on the rear axle.
 
Here is what I am going to use for the hydraulics, cat 1 top links. They have joints on the ends and check valves to prevent drifting. 11” of stroke, should work out good with the right angles.


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El cheap spool valve. Went with a 3 spool because I am planning on mounting up a back blade as well.

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Starter is toast, on the hunt for a replacement or something I can replace it with. New replacements are around $250. Maybe I can adapt something cheaper and more readily available.

Hoping the cutter teeth will be here Monday, ordered them on the 3rd and the tracking number says they have been sitting in PA since.

Have all the bits gathered up for the swing arm. The goal is to build the gearbox mount in a way that it can be rotated 90 degrees from the vertical grinding position to horizontal. When in the horizontal position it can run a little 30” or so brush cutter 2” high
parallel to the ground. We will see how all that works out.
 
Got the front end rebuilt stronger for attaching the grinder. Galvanized angle iron and pipe I got from my neighbor for grinding a couple stumps, go figure. Decided to build it with limb risers so it can get into the thick of it. Also left room around the engine so it’s easy to work on. Have a large job that is in some soft swamp that I would like to have this machine ready for.

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Spool valve, not sure what side I want to mount it on. Cutter head (1) left-right, (2) up-down, (3) back blade up-down.


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There are a couple different ways to mount the teeth to the wheel.

1. All on the same plane, teeth are all equal and have the same amount of stick out.

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2. Three different planes, high, middle, low.

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I believe the staggered teeth have better side to side cutting. Reason being the cutter heads have a slight overlap that makes for an overall wider cutting path.
 

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cervelorod said:
You could start with just 3 teeth on each side and stagger them. Seems like 12 might take more HP than you have.
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That is the question. Rated at 12.5hp but torque is 27ftlb and 41lbft at the gear box (with reduction ratio). So while it has less hp it has the same amount of torque as an 18hp+. Spinning at 2200rpm will it have enough grunt? That I do not know until it is running. The other thought is more teeth will make for a smoother cut than less teeth. Larger gaps in between teeth causes a harder bite therefore using more power.


This is the proposed tooth layout, alternating angled and straight teeth. It will provide the widest kerf and give a better plunge cut.

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I would love to see a before and after of one of those on something that actually does work. Seen them on go karts and such but something like a garden tractor with plow or PTO would be neat to see if it really helps with it doing a job.
 
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