Strut for tilt trailer

[Muckin_Slusher]

So it should look like this: ??

(don't really need to connect to the rod side at all, but might as well use free reservoir capacity, also should keep junk out of cylinder).

 

[Fuzzydog]

seems to work for this guy. his trailer sure drops fast though, but it is a lot heavier than mine, he is using PS fluid and says he still has air in the system. the trailer drop is at 8 min mark.
i am pretty sure from the specs that my cylinder is same bore/fluid capacity on both sides

 

[Landslide]

Your trailer has a design flaw if it’s hard to get it to tilt. It should be slightly heavy to tilt but close to balanced. In other words, when you pull the locking pin/latch, the tilt deck should start tilting on its own slowly.

Most all the tilt deck trailers I’ve used and use now, use a hydraulic damping cylinder. Basically it’s a dual action cylinder full of fluid with a metal line connecting both sides of the hydraulic cylinder ports.

Stay away from all that other bs of manual or powered hydraulic cylinders to force the deck and or lock the deck into position. They are going to cause you more grief and are pointless to use.

On my trailer, it just takes my body weight to tilt the trailer deck back down into transport position and then I can climb off and hold it down with one hand while locking the deck down.

The locking system on every trailer I’ve pulled is a long pivot bar that goes across from one side of the trailer to the other. It has two locking fingers or cams on it on each side of the trailer. The pivot lever is on the left side in front of the fender and once the deck is down, just rotate it to lock the deck down for transport

Tilt deck trailers have an Achilles weak link. If it’s a trailer that the whole deck tilts, they will pull like shit empty and it is very difficult to get your load on it correctly for a good tow. Every one I’ve pulled we got them with a 4’~6’ stationary deck up in front of the tilt deck and that takes care of the issues.

All the ones I’ve pulled in the past were 14,000 gvwr and the last two including the one I pull now, are 16,000 gvwr.

 

[speed bump]

I went and looked at my trailer again and it's a ported cylinder piston that's sealed, no line between the side. You can buy it from Felling pretty cheap.

2001858 - IT DECK HYD CYLINDER 2" BORE 10" STROKE, DUAL CLEVIS

Hydraulic Cushion Cylinder for Drop Deck Tilt Trailers, They have port inside that slows the flow of fluid Back and Forth, They are filled with Automatic Trans Fluid.

store.felling.com

 

[Landslide]

I went and looked at my trailer again and it's a ported cylinder piston that's sealed, no line between the side. You can buy it from Felling pretty cheap.

2001858 - IT DECK HYD CYLINDER 2" BORE 10" STROKE, DUAL CLEVIS

Hydraulic Cushion Cylinder for Drop Deck Tilt Trailers, They have port inside that slows the flow of fluid Back and Forth, They are filled with Automatic Trans Fluid.

store.felling.com

That’s what’s on mine too. I thought there was an external line on it but it’s done internally

My trailer.

 

[speed bump]

I had to draw it out to think about it.

Is this what you've got?

I think that would work if you didn't use the full stroke of the cylinder (else it would spill out on the ground) or you add a tank vented to atmosphere to take the excess.

Edit: Yeah, you would need the tank for sure, so the non-rod side didn't suck air and make everything springy...

My trailer and I'm assuming those start a little quick going down and then are fine with no res. You could always throw an accumulator on to ensure it's fine but for what it does it's not really needed.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

My trailer and I'm assuming those start a little quick going down and then are fine with no res. You could always throw an accumulator on to ensure it's fine but for what it does it's not really needed.

I think yours has a hole in the piston, and only enough fluid to fill the whole thing fully retracted. Might have a vent on the rod side, or maybe just lets a vacuum form (although the vacuum I think would want to make the cylinder retract).

If vacuum, that would explain the quick start going down.

 

[speed bump]

I think yours has a hole in the piston, and only enough fluid to fill the whole thing fully retracted. Might have a vent on the rod side, or maybe just lets a vacuum form (although the vacuum I think would want to make the cylinder retract).

If vacuum, that would explain the quick start going down.

Yeah that is how mine works. Even without the ported piston I think you could do it with a tube between the two chambers. If youreally cared you could set the tail on the ground point at the close to the volume of fully retracted rod and use a longer than needed cylinder.