Sterling spinoff... which one do I want?

[Toreadorranger]

Most trucks are wider in the front.

Iirc, his truck is 69" front, 67" rear. The 05+ rear is 71", so not horrible. But something about the rear being wider seems goofy to me.

It also has a negative effect on turning radius when the rear axle is closer in width to the front or in this case wider.

 

[u2slow]

Most trucks are wider in the front.

Iirc, his truck is 69" front, 67" rear. The 05+ rear is 71", so not horrible. But something about the rear being wider seems goofy to me.

Nearly every dually is wider by the rear.

I have a 67" front and 70" rear on my dodge for the last 8 years. Affects nothing for driving imho. If anything, it's more stable.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

It also has a negative effect on turning radius when the rear axle is closer in width to the front or in this case wider.

I tried explaining this to the group on a SxS forum and they can't wrap their heads around it. They are all about adding spacers to the rear so that the tires are equal F to R because it "looks better" but complain about the turning radius in the same breath. I gave up and just laugh at them now....

 

[2big bronco]

I tried explaining this to the group on a SxS forum and they can't wrap their heads around it. They are all about adding spacers to the rear so that the tires are equal F to R because it "looks better" but complain about the turning radius in the same breath. I gave up and just laugh at them now....

Does it actually effect the turning radius of the front of the truck? Or just place the outside rear wheel further out?

I think I did a horrible job of asking that

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Does it actually effect the turning radius of the front of the truck? Or just place the outside rear wheel further out?

I think I did a horrible job of asking that

You did, but I get what you are asking..... I think.

Yes, because the inner rear tire in a turn is your pivot point. The further you move the pivot point outward the worse the turning radius becomes and the further you move it in the tighter it becomes. 99% of vehicles are built this way for those reasons. Most HDT and DRW trucks excluded but some of them make up for it with more front steering angle.

 

[2big bronco]

You did, but I get what you are asking..... I think.

Yes, because the inner rear tire in a turn is your pivot point. The further you move the pivot point outward the worse the turning radius becomes and the further you move it in the tighter it becomes. 99% of vehicles are built this way for those reasons. Most HDT and DRW trucks excluded but some of them make up for it with more front steering angle.

Thanks... I understand what you are saying but having a hard time visualizing it. I see wheelbase making a difference....
so if a truck had a single centered rear wheel the outside front corner of the truck would turn in a tighter radius then if it was a dually?
My brain hurts...

 

[u2slow]

Except most pickups have been matching (or very nearly matching) front and rear track widths for the last 20-25 years.

Edit: My 97 E350 cutaway van (srw) was a factory example of the rear being 3" wider than the front. Was not an issue either.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I tried explaining this to the group on a SxS forum and they can't wrap their heads around it. They are all about adding spacers to the rear so that the tires are equal F to R because it "looks better" but complain about the turning radius in the same breath. I gave up and just laugh at them now....

Spooled rear is probably compounding that.

The talon is pretty staggered though. At least the x model. When I went to 10" tires front and rear from the 9/11" it was very noticeable, even with the staggered wheels.

His truck is only a single cab, so pretty maneuverable for a fullsize, I'm sure he won't really notice.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Spooled rear is probably compounding that.

The talon is pretty staggered though. At least the x model. When I went to 10" tires front and rear from the 9/11" it was very noticeable, even with the staggered wheels.

His truck is only a single cab, so pretty maneuverable for a fullsize, I'm sure he won't really notice.

The spooled rear definitely doesn't help in that situation. Both the Talon X and R are 3" narrower in the rear than in the front. I ran 8" wheels with zero offset and it's very noticeable and it helped in my case. The R has less steering angle than the X to keep the CVs happy at full lock/droop so I used the narrow rear end approach to help with that. All circle track cars and most, if not all road race cars are built with a wider front track width than rear.

 

[Ocd_Fab]

So my 02 f250 just turned 300k and i have been slowly noticing a whirring noise getting louder over the last 10kish miles that has now turned into a waah waah waah noise under load at freeway speeds. I changed the gear oil and noticed a decent amount of metal flakes... maybe a full teaspoon worth on the plug magnet.


So whata the perfect option im overlooking?

Having read that your not to keen on repairing/working on gears, have you questioned if your noise is even gear related ? I've seen plenty of spindle nuts ( Ford has a "Self Locking" style nut for the spindle ) get loose and not be serviced. Witch cause weird tones and noises to come from rear wheel bearings.

 

[2big bronco]

Having read that your not to keen on repairing/working on gears, have you questioned if your noise is even gear related ? I've seen plenty of spindle nuts ( Ford has a "Self Locking" style nut for the spindle ) get loose and not be serviced. Witch cause weird tones and noises to come from rear wheel bearings.

No I havnt done much yet. I did pull the rear driveline and realized the splines were extra sloppy. I dropped it off and had it all rebuilt for $260 but havnt put it back in yet.

When feeling the play in the rear end it actually feels way tighter then I would expect... it has a little slop but not mush at all. Its probably tighter then any other axle ive felt.


Not sure what that means

 

[Ocd_Fab]

No I havnt done much yet. I did pull the rear driveline and realized the splines were extra sloppy. I dropped it off and had it all rebuilt for $260 but havnt put it back in yet.

When feeling the play in the rear end it actually feels way tighter then I would expect... it has a little slop but not mush at all. Its probably tighter then any other axle ive felt.


Not sure what that means

Your not going to be able to measure it accurately but thats called your " BackLash ". You need to pull the diff cover and use a micrometer to measure the play between the pinion and ring gear. A new gear set calls for around .008 - .015 per Ford. I set them at .010. For reference .004 of a inch is about the standard size of a sheet of copy paper.

Im not sure if your going to work on it yourself but pulling the wheel bearing out for inspection seems a lot easier and cheaper then getting the axle built for a issue that could possibly not be in the R&P area. The Wheel Bearings have a special socket for the "Lock Nut" ( Performance Tool PN#W83008 ) but its not necessary if you know your way around a screw driver and hammer the old school way.

A quality service shop can get them inspected for pretty cheap if you don't want to touch it.

Rebuilding the driveline is always a good call if your towing a lot and have that many miles!

 

[2big bronco]

Your not going to be able to measure it accurately but thats called your " BackLash ". You need to pull the diff cover and use a micrometer to measure the play between the pinion and ring gear. A new gear set calls for around .008 - .015 per Ford. I set them at .010. For reference .004 of a inch is about the standard size of a sheet of copy paper.

Im not sure if your going to work on it yourself but pulling the wheel bearing out for inspection seems a lot easier and cheaper then getting the axle built for a issue that could possibly not be in the R&P area. The Wheel Bearings have a special socket for the "Lock Nut" ( Performance Tool PN#W83008 ) but its not necessary if you know your way around a screw driver and hammer the old school way.

A quality service shop can get them inspected for pretty cheap if you don't want to touch it.

Rebuilding the driveline is always a good call if your towing a lot and have that many miles!

Yeah at this point ill probably do all the other stuff im sure it could use first... mainly being front and rear wheel bearings. If it dries out next week I might go run it down the highway before installung the rear driveline to see if I can notice anything different.

 

[JTreadway]

Your not going to be able to measure it accurately but thats called your " BackLash ". You need to pull the diff cover and use a micrometer to measure the play between the pinion and ring gear.

You mean dial indicator with a magnetic base, don't you?