What's new
By:
Filters

steering options for portals? can am x3 max

YotaAtieToo said:
Ya, i get what you mean. I'm sure someone out west would trade, but by the time you ship it and possibly get worn out junk back, it wouldn't be worth it.

Fitting down the trails is one thing, but haveing to run over that many more rocks because of your width can be a big hamper. Especially with how long you are.
Click to expand...
i'm really the only SxS guy in my group. i'm trying to keep up with some buggies on reds. not that i'm hitting the ledges, but i don't like all these bypasses
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
trails will be completely different than before being that wide.

There is a youtube channel I watch on the AZPT and one of the riders has a Can Am with portals. That thing is a monster, looks like 35s and it's a 2 seater.. watching that thing climb over rocks it's like a spider it's so wide. :laughing:
Click to expand...
that exactly where this all started. this was supposed to be KOH support vehicle and then sell it but i saw busted knuckle's mega rzr on youtube and that planted the seed, then i saw a 2 seater X3 on 38" interco SX tires at KOH this year, it looked perfect. i'm only now realized they all started without the long travel suspension. 🤷‍♂️
 
LunchBoxFab said:
i'm really the only SxS guy in my group. i'm trying to keep up with some buggies on reds. not that i'm hitting the ledges, but i don't like all these bypasses
Click to expand...

My point is that the wider you are, the less tire placement options you have. Being 80"+ wide is no bid deal when you have 40-43"+ tires. In my experience, when you're tires get smaller, so should the width. It gives you more options to pick through an obstacle. I've had a few compact Sami's on 32-33s over the years and could almost always keep up, or sometimes make look bad, guys on 40s+. Being 65" wide gives me 3 sometimes 4 options for lines where they have 2. ~85" wheelbase helps there too, as I can go up and do a 90 turn across the trail :laughing: and weave through Boulders.

Obviously there is always a point when bigger tires prevail and the little guy is left turtled or turning around, but it's all in fun.

I also understand just going out and using the thing like it is. Maybe it's fine, maybe you like it, maybe you hate it. Having seen my Buddy's jk on 42s get bellied up on a rock and my other buddies 4 seat portal rzr go right through was impressive. They center clearance is so far different from a traditional straight axle rigs, they can just walk through stupid stuff.

I still say go 37 or 39 mrts! :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
My point is that the wider you are, the less tire placement options you have. Being 80"+ wide is no bid deal when you have 40-43"+ tires. In my experience, when you're tires get smaller, so should the width. It gives you more options to pick through an obstacle. I've had a few compact Sami's on 32-33s over the years and could almost always keep up, or sometimes make look bad, guys on 40s+. Being 65" wide gives me 3 sometimes 4 options for lines where they have 2. ~85" wheelbase helps there too, as I can go up and do a 90 turn across the trail :laughing: and weave through Boulders.
Click to expand...
that makes sense.
 
Shes out.

The rear portal adapter plates contacted the stock wheels once fully assembled. And 1/8” spacer on the wheels should do the trick.

The brakes still need to be bled

But overall she went in at 64.5” tall and came out 73” tall to the top of the cage.
 

Attachments

  • 3B59C5F4-A434-44A1-8CEE-7DFEC2173435.jpeg
    3B59C5F4-A434-44A1-8CEE-7DFEC2173435.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 32
Took her for a little ride around my parents farm this weekend, see if the portals get warm, check interferences and just shake it down a little.

No real issues except a softer (if possible) brake pedal than stock and some more steering feedback in the wheel.
There are some things to do, the steering needs a lot of love and bracing, the dps seems to help some, so it’s not terrible.
Probably need to bleed the brakes better (my vacuum bleeder doesn’t work well sub 50 degree weather)
I ordered some real 8mm wheel spacers for the rear.
Need to order the steering brace and Tie rods.

I really need to get it on some rocks soon for a real comparison
 

Attachments

  • 7EBEE682-2F6D-4A78-B558-5A4FD2376AC2.jpeg
    7EBEE682-2F6D-4A78-B558-5A4FD2376AC2.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 26
LunchBoxFab did you get this sorted? I am gonna be doing a day trip to HS Feb 26 if you are gonna be around. Have some friends that live in Kirby AR. Gonna ride the NF trails around their house Friday then run over to HS for the day on Saturday.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
LunchBoxFab did you get this sorted? I am gonna be doing a day trip to HS Feb 26 if you are gonna be around. Have some friends that live in Kirby AR. Gonna ride the NF trails around their house Friday then run over to HS for the day on Saturday.
Click to expand...
hey bud, thanks for the invite. that weekend is mardi gras here and my kids love that party, and ill have some work stuff to take care of.

im actually looking at the weekend before that one, 19FEB, but thats tentative as well.

i got some solid AL spacers for the rear to get that dialed, but im having a HELL of a time to get these brakes bled. my vacuum bleeder isnt as effective as it normally is and always pulls in air. i swapped the calipers right to left to fit the portal brackets, and the bleeder is still on top, but every time i crack the bleeder open, there is air in there.

i have a buddy coming in this week to try the old school, pump the brakes, method. will advise.
 
LunchBoxFab said:
hey bud, thanks for the invite. that weekend is mardi gras here and my kids love that party, and ill have some work stuff to take care of.

im actually looking at the weekend before that one, 19FEB, but thats tentative as well.

i got some solid AL spacers for the rear to get that dialed, but im having a HELL of a time to get these brakes bled. my vacuum bleeder isnt as effective as it normally is and always pulls in air. i swapped the calipers right to left to fit the portal brackets, and the bleeder is still on top, but every time i crack the bleeder open, there is air in there.

i have a buddy coming in this week to try the old school, pump the brakes, method. will advise.
Click to expand...
SMORR opening weekend is Mar 4-6. I am gonna try to get down on Saturday 3/5 for a day trip. I know you said you are in LA though so that's a haul unless it's a long holiday weekend.
 
LunchBoxFab said:
hey bud, thanks for the invite. that weekend is mardi gras here and my kids love that party, and ill have some work stuff to take care of.

im actually looking at the weekend before that one, 19FEB, but thats tentative as well.

i got some solid AL spacers for the rear to get that dialed, but im having a HELL of a time to get these brakes bled. my vacuum bleeder isnt as effective as it normally is and always pulls in air. i swapped the calipers right to left to fit the portal brackets, and the bleeder is still on top, but every time i crack the bleeder open, there is air in there.

i have a buddy coming in this week to try the old school, pump the brakes, method. will advise.
Click to expand...

Have you tried just gravity bleeding? If I introduce a lot of air, like swapping calipers or whatever. I usually try gravity first. Just crack the bleeders and keep the resi full. Seems to work most times to get it started.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
SMORR opening weekend is Mar 4-6. I am gonna try to get down on Saturday 3/5 for a day trip. I know you said you are in LA though so that's a haul unless it's a long holiday weekend.
Click to expand...
that IS quite a haul.

id like to get the rig to Hot Springs asap. i know the trails and the rocks really well, and i like to base line changes to my rigs and changes there, if possible.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Have you tried just gravity bleeding? If I introduce a lot of air, like swapping calipers or whatever. I usually try gravity first. Just crack the bleeders and keep the resi full. Seems to work most times to get it started.
Click to expand...
did that first, then vacuum bled first, rubber lines on the vacuum kit were super rigid and old, so i got new ones and tried again, to no avail.

will report back before i buy the hard line kit for the whole thing.
 
LunchBoxFab said:
well fuuuck. i would have liked some of that guidance about $2k ago :flipoff2:i do like the tread pattern on that x-rox and i appreciate you chiming in.

let me know what helps on that X3 you have in there now. i like the looks of that sandcraft support unit in that they directly mount the TREs on their unit away from the rack. any reason you're using the shock therapy kit on the max in the shop now? did that 2018 have the same DPS system as my 2020? is that why those kits aren't available for the 20-21 units?

so far on the suspension parts, i have a CT race works bulkhead, lower boxed front arms with the keller joints, shock tower brace, radius rods, plate and dogbones on the back.
when i break it all down and put the portals on the back, i will add some gussets and rock armor on the lower trailing arms.

all that being said, i'm a rock crawler at heart, so i'm WAAAY more concerned with the hook up than the steering, but i really don't like what i'm hearing. to be honest, i knew this was coming as the jump from 30-32s was really noticeable in the steering. sounds like ill be throwing parts at it sooner than later.
Click to expand...
sorry brother, don't get on here much. We put a ST rack on the customers rig because his stock rack was hanging on by a thread. The customer had deep pockets and wanted the best steering possible w/o going full hydro. We got the steering pretty well dialed in. we had to add a 2nd battery to support the new EPS motor, and also had to install the Evo 850W stator retro fit kit to feed the batteries. Customer has had it out a few times and loves the results.

I changed up my build from the Sandcraft steering support to the Hess steering flag and rack support, w/ ZRP tie rods. I did this because I did not like the resistance the Sandcaft shaft added and did not like that it uses the factory ball and socket inner tie rod joint. Waiting to pickup cage from powder coat before I can go test it out.

I'm surprised the factory XRC wheels didn't clear. Can you grind the portal brackets to clear the wheel so you don't have to run spacers?
 
PNWChevyJoe said:
sorry brother, don't get on here much. We put a ST rack on the customers rig because his stock rack was hanging on by a thread. The customer had deep pockets and wanted the best steering possible w/o going full hydro. We got the steering pretty well dialed in. we had to add a 2nd battery to support the new EPS motor, and also had to install the Evo 850W stator retro fit kit to feed the batteries. Customer has had it out a few times and loves the results.

I changed up my build from the Sandcraft steering support to the Hess steering flag and rack support, w/ ZRP tie rods. I did this because I did not like the resistance the Sandcaft shaft added and did not like that it uses the factory ball and socket inner tie rod joint. Waiting to pickup cage from powder coat before I can go test it out.

I'm surprised the factory XRC wheels didn't clear. Can you grind the portal brackets to clear the wheel so you don't have to run spacers?
Click to expand...
thanks for that feedback. i need to work out the steering support next, so the info on that sand craft unit is welcomed.

you could probably grind enough, but its in what looks like an important area to the overall strength of the bracket. a 10mm spacer worked good enough with a "decent" amount of thread engagement on the stock studs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Have you tried just gravity bleeding? If I introduce a lot of air, like swapping calipers or whatever. I usually try gravity first. Just crack the bleeders and keep the resi full. Seems to work most times to get it started.
Click to expand...
i finally got a buddy out to help with the OG method and that really made the most difference. then i was able to fine tune it with the vacuum system.

all that being said, the amount of movement in the braded brake lines during the bleeding process was astounding. they are most definitely contributing to the overall soft pedal everyone is feeling. i'd go to solid lines as soon as you can. i think ill make the change when i break it all down for chassis gussets and new skids.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
SMORR opening weekend is Mar 4-6. I am gonna try to get down on Saturday 3/5 for a day trip. I know you said you are in LA though so that's a haul unless it's a long holiday weekend.
Click to expand...
looks like ill be in hot springs ohv park 02-05MAR for a real shake down. SMORR is a little too long for me to make solo. kids are at the inlaws and my wife is working, so im outtie5000 while i have the chance.

i dont like shakedown runs by myself without a winch, but here we are.
 
My buddy has a can am with portals and 35s roxzillas. His stock steering sucked, so he braced it and gusseted it, and installed new tie rods and HD heims. Still sucked. To the point he didn't enjoy driving it. He had an alignment professionally done, and that helped, but it still kinda sucked. He went with the full hydro kit and hasn't looked back. Two years of beating at KOH and the full hyrdo is the only thing not to fail. Portal boxes, 5 diffs, a few rcvs, a few ball joints, a drive shaft, two rear hubs, etc. He is hard on stuff to say the least. The full hydro is the only thing he loves about the car anymore.
 
Wisconsinite said:
My buddy has a can am with portals and 35s roxzillas. His stock steering sucked, so he braced it and gusseted it, and installed new tie rods and HD heims. Still sucked. To the point he didn't enjoy driving it. He had an alignment professionally done, and that helped, but it still kinda sucked. He went with the full hydro kit and hasn't looked back. Two years of beating at KOH and the full hyrdo is the only thing not to fail. Portal boxes, 5 diffs, a few rcvs, a few ball joints, a drive shaft, two rear hubs, etc. He is hard on stuff to say the least. The full hydro is the only thing he loves about the car anymore.
Click to expand...
i have heard this a couple times now and i appreciate your input.

any idea on what kit he is happy with?
 
PM me your number and I can get you in touch with him. After driving his X3 a little bit before and after the swap, it is NIGHT AND DAY difference.
 
LunchBoxFab any updates on how you like your buggy with the portals? I was looking into a LT kit for my R&T but Eric from SATV suggested portals to run 35s on the RZRForum. My biggest issue with portals has always been the increased steering effort from the completely fucked offset from the balljoints out. I remember watching a video of the Slickrok guys redrilling the steering arm or adding a piece to the steering arm so that the tie rod attachment point was farther from the BJ so it had more leverage on the steering. Downside to that would be reduced steering radius. Full hydro steering would be the cat's ass but also $$.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
LunchBoxFab any updates on how you like your buggy with the portals? I was looking into a LT kit for my R&T but Eric from SATV suggested portals to run 35s on the RZRForum. My biggest issue with portals has always been the increased steering effort from the completely fucked offset from the balljoints out. I remember watching a video of the Slickrok guys redrilling the steering arm or adding a piece to the steering arm so that the tie rod attachment point was farther from the BJ so it had more leverage on the steering. Downside to that would be reduced steering radius. Full hydro steering would be the cat's ass but also $$.
Click to expand...
yeah man, i got it all back together. i did not go with the belt driven nor electric power steering kits. i used the sandcraft rack brace. its a really nice piece that tightened up the steering a lot just by bolting it on. i havent had the chance to really get out and "rock crawl" with it, but it definitely helps. it does not add anything to help steer the wheels, but my steering is MUCH tighter, and with the OEM DPS system, its bearable. my only dig on that kit is that Sandcraft re-uses the stock inner tie rods. it would be nice to upgrade that while you have it all apart.

i dont know how long the DPS will operate at "high output" on the OEM battery and 35s
i also killed most of the power. the machine really needs some clutch work. its really nice now, but in stock trim on 30's this 195hp unit was a tire melting machine. my original idea was 35's with 30% reduction would keep me close to stock feel, but its not close and sluggish.

i have been riding it around the farm and its much more "solid" feeling, but nothing is gonna help steering this bus except more angle. this is a 4 seat, 72" wide machine now WITH portals. it takes 2 football fields to turn around.

i like the idea of raising the steering arm attachment point at the wheel. my portal box backing plates should accept a higher steering attachment point with a little work. i think that would help with the bumpsteer maybe?
 
yeah man, they are game changers.

hopefully they will not eat my driveline.
 
Finally got her out to stretch her legs.

The stickies and the portal clearance are great on these dry rocks.

Steering rack is fucked, even with the race rack brace. These rocks, portals and 35s are too hard on this little ass rack.

This is the bonus exit on the top of Ultimate Adventure in Hot Springs ORV.



Ultimate Adventure
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh